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Tom Doan
01-05-2005, 06:29 PM
Dear Gang,
I have been out of touch for months, I work in China. I told Logan, DR and Mark not expect to hear from me ever, I am back for the holidays and am trying to catch up. I can weld Mark's block back togther with no distortion and make the failed area stronger than before. I am not the best, but have years of experance doing absurd welding repairs on aluminum injection molds when the mold or car transmission should have been scrapped. Someone else will have to make the choice if it is worth it, the block is worth little right now. Tom.

hitchhiker
01-05-2005, 09:51 PM
Dear Gang,
I have been out of touch for months, I work in China. I told Logan, DR and Mark not expect to hear from me ever, I am back for the holidays and am trying to catch up. I can weld Mark's block back togther with no distortion and make the failed area stronger than before. I am not the best, but have years of experance doing absurd welding repairs on aluminum injection molds when the mold or car transmission should have been scrapped. Someone else will have to make the choice if it is worth it, the block is worth little right now. Tom.
What are you doing in China?

Are you giving our know how and technology to the Chinese?

:confused:

Joe Walsh
01-05-2005, 09:58 PM
I know that you can weld up Aluminum blocks with good results, just as long as NO damage was done to the mains & webbing. (i.e. damage was in a non-structural area)
I've seen a local guy who really knows his craft and Ford 'FE' engines weld up holed cast iron 427 blocks...(again, when the hole was in the block skirt and NOT in the mains or webbing)
It takes A LOT of skill, patience, peening and stress relieving to weld cast iron correctly!

Mike Poore
01-06-2005, 02:05 AM
Dear Gang,
I can weld Mark's block back togther with no distortion and make the failed area stronger than before. I am not the best, but have years of experance doing absurd welding repairs on aluminum injection molds when the mold or car transmission should have been scrapped. Tom.
:welcome: Hello, Tom. Welcome home, and hope you're enjoying your holiday.

Joe's post about welding 427 blocks threw me, but I can see how you'd want to try, owing to the scarcity of those motors, but with a flex block that requires six bolt mains does it seem wise to take the chance? I'm not arguing, just curious, because it's a concept I had not considered.

Following your post about making the failed area stronger than before, would it make sense to build up the bottom end of these motors in like fashon before, or as part of an engine rebuild?:dunno:

PS: We'd visit China, given the chance.;)

SergntMac
01-06-2005, 08:47 AM
A brand new replacement block is 795., and it can be shipped UPS to your door. What more could you ask for?

TheDealer
01-06-2005, 09:33 AM
Who's block is that? The factory block is a lot more than that.

Mike Poore
01-06-2005, 10:27 AM
Who's block is that? The factory block is a lot more than that.
Guess it depends if you're talking short block, long block, or machined casting.

TheDealer
01-06-2005, 10:39 AM
A bare block from Ford retails for $1805.25, the cheapest I would sell it would be $1285.00. This is why I couldn't understand how someone could sell this part for $795.00 delivered to their door. It must be a take off or something surplus.

SergntMac
01-06-2005, 01:00 PM
Who's block is that? The factory block is a lot more than that.
Page down here...

http://www.karkraft.com/modular_parts.htm

Gets even cheaper ii you're willing to begin with a used block, and if you're building a forged engine, why not? Plenty of ways to insure structural integrity during block preparation, eh?

Joe Walsh
01-19-2005, 09:45 AM
:bump:

Mark, Any update on your 'holed' engine???