Chrome Dipping Stock Rims

[wchain]

Has anyone considered/done this?

[Rider90]

I think they are better the way they are...they look shiny enough for me. With chrome, they can rust unless you keep em polished, with these I don't think they can rust - what are they polished aluminum w/ a clear coat?

[wchain]

I think they are better the way they are...they look shiny enough for me. With chrome, they can rust unless you keep em polished, with these I don't think they can rust - what are they polished aluminum w/ a clear coat?


Yup. Wax is the best defense, I think metal polish may be too harsh on the finish, but thats just a speculation.

My main concern is for the inside of the rims. Im thinking that I'm either going to get em polished as well, or dip the whole rim.

[Rider90]

So Wes, can you swing the shipping or no? you never got back to me :help:

[wchain]

So Wes, can you swing the shipping or no? you never got back to me :help:

:hijack:
Turn your IM on...

[Rider90]

I'm at work, SSSSSHHHHHHH!!!

[MARAUDER S/C #5]

My main concern is for the inside of the rims. Im thinking that I'm either going to get em polished as well, or dip the whole rim.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=12492&highlight=rim+job

;)

[rumble]

Has anyone considered/done this?


I have considered it. My concern is that polished and clear coated
wheels only last so long and normally not that long. My thought
would be good chrome will last indefinitely. My experience is that
4 wheels to be chromed will run about $600.00 and take three weeks.
Maybe after the clear coat croaks?
What say you, Wes?

[TAF]

Funny that this question comes up today....huh Marty and Donny....;) :P

[wchain]

Funny that this question comes up today....huh Marty and Donny....;) :P


I'm all about the bling factor.... LOL I want this
:burnout:
to blind you.....

[TAF]

Hang tight...we may have a way to help with this coming soon....

[Zack]

Hang tight...we may have a way to help with this coming soon....

Everyone, ask Mac (the originator of the Chrome MM rims) for pictures of his.
Anything else is just an imitation, and couldnt possibly come close in quality to his.
No need to hang tight, its been done.

[Donny Carlson]

Everyone, ask Mac (the originator of the Chrome MM rims) for pictures of his.
Anything else is just an imitation, and couldnt possibly come close in quality to his.
No need to hang tight, its been done.
I had considered using Mac's source, and for those of you who live near the Chicago area, perhaps this is the most covenient outlet for wheel polishing and chroming. Personally, I have nothing bad to say about them.

Todd and I are working on a source more convenient to Southern Marauder owners, a company with over 40 years in the business of show quality triple plating, one who moved into a 60,000 square foot facility not long ago (they have a commercial plating division, and produce OEM parts as well). From what I've seen, their work is excellent to my eyes and their prices are reasonable.

I don't know if one company or the other is "the best" or if that title should belong to a shop in California for that matter. I like that this place is just a few hours up the road, and that they have a retail shop I can browse through, look at examples of parts, actually hold them in my hands.

My guess is that either this place or Mac's will produce parts that will look great, it's just a matter of convenience and what they charge.

[Warpath]

I have considered it. My concern is that polished and clear coated
wheels only last so long and normally not that long. My thought
would be good chrome will last indefinitely...

Not so. My dad was a wheel engineer at Ford. He told me that polished and clearcoated wheels such as the MM wheels will last longer (take longer to corrode) than chrome wheels. They proved that out in their tests. If you are looking to improve longevity of your wheels, wax them and keep them clean. Chrome them if you want chrome.

[the_pack_rat]

Ah yes ...

CHROMED wheels.

This concept is what's kept me - fairly CALM about how the wheels of my MM looks like they were rubbed with something abrasive in a few spots(by the selling dealer - NOT me).

I'm there dudes(& dudettes) ...

As long as the quality is up to snuff.

:beer:

[ckadiddle]

Was driving to work today... bright cloudless sky....caught myself admiring the pretty rotating sparklies the MM wheels make on the blacktop. You could get entranced if you aren't carefull. Realized I should really be looking through the windshield rather than down at the pavement outside the driver's door. :)

[SergntMac]

Nevermind...

[wchain]

Nevermind...


Huh??? I'm too busy watching Movies on the way to work :burnout:

[TAF]

:lol: :lol: :lol: .............................. .

[prchrman]

I think they are better the way they are...they look shiny enough for me. With chrome, they can rust unless you keep em polished, with these I don't think they can rust - what are they polished aluminum w/ a clear coat?

Chrome does not rust...it's the steel bineath the chrome that rusts...willie

[FastMerc]

I worked in the metal finishing industry.when alum,wheels are copper plated then chromed they last practically for ever and it wont rust.It cant its not steel.:)

[DeadVic]

stupid question:

I have no real world exp. with chroming but would this cause any issues with the lug nuts and proper fit and performance given the extreme pressure/load involved? I can't imagine it's an issue but my mind wanders at this time of day. just curious...

[SergntMac]

I have no real world exp. with chroming but would this cause any issues with the lug nuts and proper fit and performance given the extreme pressure/load involved?
I'm not sure what you're driving at, but I can tell your this. My MM wheels have been hand polished and nickle plated in a triple plating process, and I have no problems with lug nut clearance, or, working their way loose. I install them with 80# of torque and they are holding that torque through some serious driving. Hope this helps.

[valleyman]

I'm not sure what you're driving at, but I can tell your this. My MM wheels have been hand polished and nickle plated in a triple plating process, and I have no problems with lug nut clearance, or, working their way loose. I install them with 80# of torque and they are holding that torque through some serious driving. Hope this helps.


Sarge -- I'm not flaming you here, I'm curious. Why do you go to only 80# when the shop manual calls for 95#?

[martyo]

Sarge -- I'm not flaming you here, I'm curious. Why do you go to only 80# when the shop manual calls for 95#?

Some folk's nuts can handle more torque than other's! :D

[SergntMac]

Sarge -- I'm not flaming you here, I'm curious. Why do you go to only 80# when the shop manual calls for 95#?
You're the first I've seen to post 95# of torque, where did you get this number from? I've heard 100# in the past, which/what "manual" do you refer to?

[TAF]

Some folk's nuts can handle more torque than other's! :DNow Marty...you're NOT supposed to make me laugh this loud, this late at night...my girls are asleep and tomorrow is a school day....






*gasp*








I'm sorry honey...I can't help it......

:lol: :lol: :lol:
:lol: :lol: :lol:

[valleyman]

You're the first I've seen to post 95# of torque, where did you get this number from? I've heard 100# in the past, which/what "manual" do you refer to?

I'm getting it from the 2003 Helm Workshop Manual for the CV/GM/MM, the "wheel and tire" section, section 204-04-6. There's a little diagram on that page that lists the wheel nut torque at "129 Nm (95 lb-ft)." Also, there's a torque spec chart on 204-04-1 that shows the same values. Does your shop manual give the same values? I haven't even bothered to look in the owners''s manual.

[Rider90]

The base for the MM wheel is aluminum, right? and the base for the CV and GM is steel except for that spoked GM wheel...shouldn't the torque numbers be different for aluminum wheels and steel wheels?

[prchrman]

Torque has more to do with bolt or stud stretch than the kind of wheel...willie

[Bradley G]

Marty, your tone sounds like you speak from experience!

Bradley G


Some folk's nuts can handle more torque than other's! :D

[DeadVic]

Marty, your tone sounds like you speak from experience!

Bradley G


I can tell you exactly how much mine can take. I had the "big V", as my wife calls it, last Friday.

Turns out mine can't take much or they turn black and blue... :o

I know...TOO much info...

Anyhoo, I was curios to know if there would be any changes in load/tourque associated with another layer coated on the rims. Given that we typically drive the car very hard I had some concern (very little) about something breaking. I suppose any failure would be a fluke or we would have heard about it before now given all the cars out there with pimped wheels.

[Warpath]

Torque has more to do with bolt or stud stretch than the kind of wheel...willie

Up to 90% of the torque applied to a fastener goes to overcoming friction. Therefore, torque has more to do with friction than stretching the stud. Friction comes from the threads and from under the head or nut. Since friction comes from under the nut, the kind of wheel does make a difference. In fact, adding chrome will change the coefficient of friction under the nut and change the amount of friction. Therefore, for a given torque spec, if you increase the amount of friction, you decrease the amount of bolt stretch and clamp load. So, yes, adding chrome will affect the joint. How much is hard to determine. As Mac stated, chroming wheels is common and so far no widespread problems are associated with it.

Secondly, the clamped material stiffness needs to be taken into account when designing a joint. Therefore, if wheel material is changed, not only does friction change, but the amount of bolt stretch will change as well (springs are in parallel).

As for corrosion, aluminum wheels will corrode if uncoated. They will get hazy. If the clearcoat chips off a polished aluminum wheel, that spot under the chip will oxidize and get hazy. It will probably look like a water spot you can't remove.

[MERCMAN]

will it change the pinion angle? :rofl:

[rookie1]

will it change the pinion angle? :rofl:


now that's funny

[Zack]

will it change the pinion angle? :rofl:

Ah, fond memories of pure idiocy.
Thanks Dan

[prchrman]

:puke:
Up to 90% of the torque applied to a fastener goes to overcoming friction. Therefore, torque has more to do with friction than stretching the stud. Friction comes from the threads and from under the head or nut. Since friction comes from under the nut, the kind of wheel does make a difference. In fact, adding chrome will change the coefficient of friction under the nut and change the amount of friction. Therefore, for a given torque spec, if you increase the amount of friction, you decrease the amount of bolt stretch and clamp load. So, yes, adding chrome will affect the joint. How much is hard to determine. As Mac stated, chroming wheels is common and so far no widespread problems are associated with it.

Secondly, the clamped material stiffness needs to be taken into account when designing a joint. Therefore, if wheel material is changed, not only does friction change, but the amount of bolt stretch will change as well (springs are in parallel).


As for corrosion, aluminum wheels will corrode if uncoated. They will get hazy. If the clearcoat chips off a polished aluminum wheel, that spot under the chip will oxidize and get hazy. It will probably look like a water spot you can't remove.

Torque is an indirect way to measure clamp pressure...clamp pressure is what is needed and therefor the correct number of bolts and studs are sized to get the correct clamp pressure. Torque settings are not determined by what kind of wheel you use but is determined by the size and grade of bolt or stud you are using. Friction comes into play but it is not as critical as bolt stretch, ie. how you get clamp pressure. willie

[HwyCruiser]

will it change the pinion angle?

Ah, fond memories of pure idiocy.
Thanks Dan

ROTFLMAO! Excuse me while I clean the Diet 7-Up spray off the monitor...

[Donny Carlson]

now that's funny

ROTFLMAO! Excuse me while I clean the Diet 7-Up spray off the monitor...
Amazing what makes one laugh, eh? Me, Joe Cartoon and lipstick on a cat's ass.

Others, remembrances of an old dust up about pinion angles.

:rolleyes:

[Warpath]

:puke:

Torque is an indirect way to measure clamp pressure...clamp pressure is what is needed and therefor the correct number of bolts and studs are sized to get the correct clamp pressure. Torque settings are not determined by what kind of wheel you use but is determined by the size and grade of bolt or stud you are using. Friction comes into play but it is not as critical as bolt stretch, ie. how you get clamp pressure. willie

I agree with your statement that clamp is what is needed. But, torque settings are dependent on wheel when the rotating fastener is bearing up against it. Wheel material also matters because the amount of bolt stretch is affected by the amount of joint compression (this is less important since bolt stretch << joint compression in hard joints). Size and grade play a part. But, friction plays a huge part in setting torque specs as I stated previously. If size and grade were all that was required, then all the fasteners of the same size and grade would have the same spec (and each joint would have different clamp loads). Look at the fastener equation and you will see two of the three factors in clamp load are friction related. I'm a suspension engineer and my job requires me to set torque specs. I deal with this stuff every day.

[FordNut]

I'm getting it from the 2003 Helm Workshop Manual for the CV/GM/MM, the "wheel and tire" section, section 204-04-6. There's a little diagram on that page that lists the wheel nut torque at "129 Nm (95 lb-ft)." Also, there's a torque spec chart on 204-04-1 that shows the same values. Does your shop manual give the same values? I haven't even bothered to look in the owners''s manual.
Is there a different spec for the aluminum vs steel wheels? That should clear up the torque-stretch-friction subject. I'd check but I don't have my manual with me.

[Warpath]

Sometimes torque specs are commonized if close enough for similar parts to make it easier on the assembly plants and to save some money. Common specs require only one tool to be purchased and there's no chance of the operator grabbing the wrong torque wrench. My statements are in regards to the theories used in practice. Sorry for the confusion.

[David Morton]

Some folk's nuts can handle more torque than other's! :DI agree and MY nuts certainly are heavy duty and call for that extra 5 pounds.

I have used 100 lbs/ft for years and had no problems and with my old click type wrench having a +/- accuracy of 5%, I figure the extra 5 isn't going to hurt and just might be keeping me from being on the low side.

Back on topic, I like chrome enough but it is a different color, darker and I like answering people that make the fatal comment with, "No, no, no. Those aren't cheap chrome-plated wheels. They're polished aluminum alloy."

But the best reason is again, the color.

[the_pack_rat]

Bump ...

Any updates on this ?.