What can I do to keep a MM running through 150k and on?

[WantOneSoBad]

I'm looking forward to getting my MM and having it running like a champ for at least 200,000 miles. I have a 91 9c1 Caprice and its got a little over 294,000 miles and the original transmission finally lost overdrive this month, been driving in 2nd gear lately. Anyways, what are the things I can do to get the same out of a MM. I have some general ideas so far but I'm very sure you guys know much more than I, but heres my list so far.

-Transmission cooler
-Oil cooler
-Higher amp alternator
-Running synthetics ASAP
-Prolong treatment



Will going to 4.10 gears help or hurt what I'm trying to achieve?

[RF Overlord]

An auxiliary transmission cooler will only help if you increase the power level of the engine significantly, install a high-stall torque converter, or drive like a maniac.

An oil cooler *may* help a little.

A higher-output alternator won't improve the life of anything

Synthetic fluids won't necessarily help the car last longer, but they will reduce operating costs if used properly.

DO NOT under any circumstances use Prolong or any other "engine treatment" in your car. None of them will help in the slightest, and a great many of them will actually HARM your motor. Most of them have been sued by the FTC for false and misleading advertising. Search the web for more info on these scams.

4.10 gears will make the car launch like it "should", but certainly won't add to its longevity...if anything, they may slightly reduce it, as the drivetrain will rotate more times per mile with a higher (numerical) RAR.

[MM2004]

RF,
Years back, I had my L/M Dealer add Slick 50 to my engine ('01 GM) at the first oil change after asking them if they support using the stuff. The Dealer welcomed it, so it was added @ 2,500miles.
My MM has 3,500 miles and have not added anything to the Motorcraft 5W20 oil that I have the dealer change for me.
Is it not a good idea to add this to the engine? What effects to the engine will this cause further down the road if any? :help:

Mike.


An auxiliary transmission cooler will only help if you increase the power level of the engine significantly, install a high-stall torque converter, or drive like a maniac.

An oil cooler *may* help a little.

A higher-output alternator won't improve the life of anything

Synthetic fluids won't necessarily help the car last longer, but they will reduce operating costs if used properly.

DO NOT under any circumstances use Prolong or any other "engine treatment" in your car. None of them will help in the slightest, and a great many of them will actually HARM your motor. Most of them have been sued by the FTC for false and misleading advertising. Search the web for more info on these scams.

4.10 gears will make the car launch like it "should", but certainly won't add to its longevity...if anything, they may slightly reduce it, as the drivetrain will rotate more times per mile with a higher (numerical) RAR.

[RF Overlord]

Mike, Slick 50 is absolutely one of the most egregious offenders in the snake-oil business. It's primary ingredient is PTFE, known to us common folk as Teflon. Check out this link (http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-additives.html) for an excellent article concerning Teflon in car engines. I'll provide one quote as an example:

By far the most damning testimonial against these products originally came from the DuPont Chemical Corporation, inventor of PTFE and holder of the patents and trademarks for Teflon. In a statement issued about ten years ago, DuPont's Fluoropolymers Division Product Specialist, J.F. Imbalzano said, "Teflon is not useful as an ingredient in oil additives or oils used for internal combustion engines."

Here's something else of interest, from a different article (http://skepdic.com/slick50.html):

"...tests done on a Chevy 6 cylinder engine by the University of Utah Engineering Experiment Station found that after treatment with the PTFE additive the test engine's friction was reduced by 13.1 percent, the output horsepower increased from 5.3 percent to 8.1 percent, and fuel economy improved as well. Unfortunately, the same tests concluded that "There was a pressure drop across the oil filter resulting from possible clogging of small passageways." Oil analysis showed that iron contamination doubled after the treatment, indicating that engine wear increased."

Test after test have shown that most, if not all, oil additives either do nothing, or, even if they actually do something, also have enormous detrimental aspects that completely negate any possible benefits.

[RoyLPita]

Just take care of whatever the car needs.
Change the oil every 3k.
Flush the trans and fuel/induction system every 30k. Change fuel filter, too.
Spark plugs should last till 100k.
Depending on coolant color:
green should be flushed every 30k or 2 years and,
yellow every 100k or 5 years.
Power steering and brake fluid flushes at 60k.
Rear end gear oil get changed at 100k or
whenever the vehicle is operated in deep water.
Change the air filter every 15k (K&N clean every 50k).

Make sure that nothing leaks (except a/c sweat).

[MM2004]

Thanks RF! :high5:

Good information as well as a good read. Amazing how the public can easily be misled!
Once agian, this site has proved how awesome it is and group of people within. :bows: :bows: :bows:

Mike.


Mike, Slick 50 is absolutely one of the most egregious offenders in the snake-oil business. It's primary ingredient is PTFE, known to us common folk as Teflon. Check out this link (http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-additives.html) for an excellent article concerning Teflon in car engines. I'll provide one quote as an example:

By far the most damning testimonial against these products originally came from the DuPont Chemical Corporation, inventor of PTFE and holder of the patents and trademarks for Teflon. In a statement issued about ten years ago, DuPont's Fluoropolymers Division Product Specialist, J.F. Imbalzano said, "Teflon is not useful as an ingredient in oil additives or oils used for internal combustion engines."

Here's something else of interest, from a different article (http://skepdic.com/slick50.html):

"...tests done on a Chevy 6 cylinder engine by the University of Utah Engineering Experiment Station found that after treatment with the PTFE additive the test engine's friction was reduced by 13.1 percent, the output horsepower increased from 5.3 percent to 8.1 percent, and fuel economy improved as well. Unfortunately, the same tests concluded that "There was a pressure drop across the oil filter resulting from possible clogging of small passageways." Oil analysis showed that iron contamination doubled after the treatment, indicating that engine wear increased."

Test after test have shown that most, if not all, oil additives either do nothing, or, even if they actually do something, also have enormous detrimental aspects that completely negate any possible benefits.

[DEFYANT]

I bought into that Slick 50 crap back when it came out. I'm glad I dont own those cars now. The problems should start any day now...... :{

[Patrick]

I bought into that Slick 50 crap back when it came out. I'm glad I dont own those cars now. The problems should start any day now...... :{

So did I. In my old 91 Cougar LS. My problems started about six months later. Got rid of it before it cost me too much!!!! Darn because she was a nice ride.

[jgc61sr2002]

As stated above, changing the oil is most critical. I have driven many cars more than 250K . The secert is changing the oil every 3K.

[WantOneSoBad]

Wow, glad I posted that. So, are there any extra things that I can do that I did not list. I was just throwing in the coolers because most police interceptors, Ford and GM have them and they usually on average run well into the 200k's and beyond. So, since most of you guys said Oil change is the most important, what is the best oil to run in the MM, and well all the other fluids as well such as Coolant, Power Steering, Trans, Brake. Right now I've been running Castrol Synthetic in my caprice just because I'm young and think the one of the most expensive is the best. I look forward to being told otherwise once again.

[RF Overlord]

are there any extra things that I can do that I did not list. What RoyLPita said ^^^ pretty much sums it up...


Right now I've been running Castrol Synthetic in my caprice just because I'm young and think the one of the most expensive is the best. I look forward to being told otherwise once again.There really is no "best" oil...just use an oil that's the right viscosity for the motor and the expected driving conditions, and change it every 3-5k (if using a good dino or synth-blend) or 7-10k if using a full synthetic. For the other fluids, see RoyL's reply...

[Bigdogjim]

Just take care of whatever the car needs.
Change the oil every 3k.
Flush the trans and fuel/induction system every 30k. Change fuel filter, too.
Spark plugs should last till 100k.
Depending on coolant color:
green should be flushed every 30k or 2 years and,
yellow every 100k or 5 years.
Power steering and brake fluid flushes at 60k.
Rear end gear oil get changed at 100k or
whenever the vehicle is operated in deep water.
Change the air filter every 15k (K&N clean every 50k).

Make sure that nothing leaks (except a/c sweat).
Time and mileage work together. This is a great start the only thing I would add is power flush on the trans. every 30,000 and drop the pan and replace the filter every other. (filters are not flushable!!)
I would dump the coolant ever year.(but thats me)
Short hops are just and hard on a car as long distance driving.
Again write down your plan and stick to it!

[LimoMerc]

A good mechanic once told me (as he handed me my $600 bill) that you should never have less than half a tank gas in the car because the fuel pump is in gas tank and intended to be cooled by the gasoline. The MM is the same way. Also a member here has a device on his engine that primes the heads with 1 qt. of oil before start-up which would certainly prolong the life of the engine. It may or may not have been related but I had a head gasket blow on a Nissan just shortly after putting "Restore" in it.

[WantOneSoBad]

What is the name of the product he has? I'm just trying to get the most out of the MM once I get it cause this is going to be a real big purchase for me if I can find a dealership that will sell one to me. I might just have to find a private seller thats willing to work with me. As I was saying this is a real big purchase for me and I want my MM to last for a good long time and I know from past experience that Mercury's have a tendency to do the opposite. This is the only reason I ask all these questions, and all of your input is appreciated.

[Pat]

Most if not all replys center on the engine and are good info. Given proper care the engine should last 150K miles. But what I have experienced with my high mileage Grand Marquis (200K) is deterioration of the plastic interior, headlight fogging, leaks around the firewall/windshield area allowing water to soak the floor, seat belt locking failure front and back, paint delamination and the leather interior ing thru to the paddings, the head liner rotting, glove compartment retaining cable breaking and visor hold tang breaking.

With the exception of normal service items the engine and transmission have performed flawlessly and still seem to have the same umph that it did when new.

[WantOneSoBad]

My "To-Do" list once I get my Marauder is only getting longer, I really do appreciate the feedback. But about the motor oil, there has to be some that are better than others. I mean I know you guys wouldnt run a 5W-20 oil that only costs .48 in your Marauder. I'm just wondering what your different experience are with some oils and why you would recommend some and not others. I hear alot of talk about Royal Purple or something like that, what does it offer that others dont?

[David Morton]

Fluids, fluids, fluids. Roy said it first, I can only add a couple of observations. Hoses are often overlooked. Feel them now when they're new. Pinch them. When they don't feel like that any more, or make a crackling noise when you pinch them, replace them. If they ever get oil on them, they'll start to swell. Try to clean it all off but you won't get it all so look to be replacing them sooner. Watch for swelling, especially around the clamps.

I disagree about waiting 100K for the yellow coolant and rear-end lube.

First, I refuse to trust that the coolant was mixed with pure distilled water at the factory and if it wasn't, chlorine in the water will deteriorate the lubricant which is the weak link in a cooling system. That seal on the water pump shaft is a major cause of cooling system failures and it's almost always old coolant where the lubricant is gone that causes that seal to fail. Also, I wouldn't dare try to go that far without replacing the thermostat and plan to replace mine at 50K whether it needs it or not. Then I will use distilled water and new coolant. I would change the old type coolant every year, $15 is cheap insurance. Just drain and fill.

Second, rear axles have an open vent that sucks in moisture laden air as it cools off and this is slowly contaminating the lube, but mostly I think that the posi-traction clutches are probably going to need service long before 100K comes around. I hope mine last 50K but I doubt they will.

And one last word about ATF changes and the filter inside an automatic transmission. That filter is there to catch the initial "flake-off" material that's gonna drop into the pan while it "breaks-in". I've built 100's of automatics and never found any more volume of material inside a filter than you'd pepper your eggs with, unless it was "making metal" where I knew to look for a disetegrating bearing, bushing or gear set. If all I saw was that little bit of "pepper", I'd put seals and clutches in it and not bother to look for any trouble. Never had a comeback. Bottom line, if the filter needs to be changed, the tranny is dying anyways. If the fluid is changed regularly, that filter will last for a million miles.

The most overlooked and important additive of ATF (and engine oil, for that matter) is the detergent! Automatics don't burn fuel but the mineral oil base does tend to cook into a varnish that sticks valves and can clog the filter, so changing ATF frequently is the best insurance. However, cracking that pan open exposes the valve body to the open air where dust can be blown onto it and the possibility of a pan gasket leak is now re-introduced. Changing the filter, which is unnecessary anyways, may also re-introduce other mistakes, like seal failure causing air intusion into the intake oil. And to top it all off, your only going to get about 50% of the ATF out this way, so your going to go back out with half your ATF still making varnish. Why do all this when you can get 100% of your ATF replaced at the cooler lines and never have to worry about anything more than a little cooler line leak? :cool:

I drain and fill my engine oil in between (2500, 7500, 12500, etc.) the regularly scheduled 5000 mile oil and filter change which I have the dealership do.

Oh, and one last thing. You're probably going to need to replace the rear tires before you get to 100K. :D

[rookie1]

nice thread so far and mostly common sense. The plugs may indeed be good for 100k, trying to actually get them out after 100k may be a different story.
This is my first Ford product but from experience with GM vehicles especially aluminum ones if you don't change those plugs at 50k you'll never get them all out at 100k without busting a couple and THAT"S a major pain in the A$$.

[ahess77]

OK, I’m not an SAE certified mechanic and I no longer work at Ford so I don’t think anyone can sue me for incorrect information. But, how long your engine is going to last is probably about 50% how you drive, 25% chance and 25% maintenance. Here’s why I say this:

How you drive: Why do you hear the cliché about the used car salesman stating the car was only driven by a little old lady? Because it says a lot about how the car was abused, or not. If you’re doing short trips, hammering on the accelerator at cold engine temps, throwing the car into corners at twice a reasonable speed, etc. you’re going to cause much more wear than the little old lady. The businessman that puts his car on the freeway and sets the cruise at 65 mph for hours on end is going to get the most miles out of his car because it’s the easiest way for a car to rack up miles. Would you ever buy a car from a rental company? I wouldn’t touch one because I know how I drive them when they’re rented. Engines last the longest when you’re easy on them and keep the stresses down. When you add 4:56 gears, nitrous, and drag race the thing from light to light you’re going to cause it to wear quickly.

Chance: your major repair costs due to wear are going to be engine or transmission. Your engine & transmission are built with hundreds of components that must interface with reasonable tolerances. Your particular engine has been built with a specific set of parts such as pistons, rings, connector rods, bearings, etc. that you can’t change now (unless you end up with those major repair costs) So, if you got an engine that has one piston that’s a little small and a set of rings was put on it that is a little brittle and it is in a block where the cylinder is just a little large, even though it’s all to specification it’s going to wear faster. It’s just chance. As manufacturing tolerances have gotten better over the past few decades, engines also last much longer. But you never know if you got one that will go 100k or 300k miles.

Maintenance: now, if you do the normal things like oil changes at regular intervals, change the transmission fluid before it breaks down and looses its properties, don’t run the tank out of gas, etc. you’ll not speed up the wear processes. If you don’t (I knew one salesman that NEVER changed oil in his Taurus, only added when it when the light came on) you’ll speed up the wear and that 100k engine might only last 50k. Belts, hoses, brakes, tires, and other such items are meant to have a limited life and you’ll need to replace as required. The only reason to replace them early is to prevent breakdowns when you need to use the car, i.e. so long as a hose carries fluid, it’s working, when it breaks you’ve got to quit driving.

Adding transmission coolers, oil coolers, synthetic oils, and such only help to decrease the wear by prolonging the life of your components by keeping the heat energy lower. But if you drive it like the little old lady you won’t need to get the excess heat out. So these modifications are ways to allow you to drive it like you stole it and still keep the wear minimized because if we wanted to drive a sucky car that lasted forever we’d still be buying diesel VW Rabbits.

[David Morton]

All reasonable assumtions ahess77, but my experience as an ASE Technician tells me it's more like 40% driving style (not what you think), 10% chance and 50% maintenance.

Maybe you wouldn't buy a used rental (or police car) but I would and it's mostly about maintenance but also about driving style. A long time ago my professor told me the biggest enemy and friend of an automobile is heat. More to the point, it's how heat is managed. Too much in the engine and the metals fail, not enough and they wear out faster. Not frequent enough in places like the brakes, cooling system and exhaust and rust and corrosion will develop. Because of the regular use and maintenance of rental and fleet vehicles, they have the best records of getting high mileage, and because most people don't know this, they are the biggest bargains in the used car market. The old line used car salesmen say about little old ladies makes me laugh and would turn me off the sale in a heartbeat! When I was on the line, my mouth would water when I got a little old ladys' car for inspection. 80% of the time I could find something wrong with the car and I'm not talking marginal. Brakes, exhaust, hoses, oil leaks, I could go on and on. And the reason? "She only drives it to the grocery store 1/2 mile away twice a week and never gets it hot."

Give me an old police car every time. Hey! In a year or two the FHP is going to be auctioning off a couple dozen Marauders, all with Dennis' legendary 140+ MPH conversion kits! Outstanding! I can't wait! :D

[merc406]

[QUOTE=WantOneSoBad][left]I'm looking forward to getting my MM and having it running like a champ for at least 200,000 miles. I have a 91 9c1 Caprice and its got a little over 294,000 miles and the original transmission finally lost overdrive this month, been driving in 2nd gear lately. Anyways, what are the things I can do to get the same out of a MM.




As with anything mechanical, a good prayer never hurt once in awhile :beer: I do it everytime I have to use the 83 GM with 290K on her. :)

[RF Overlord]

But about the motor oil, there has to be some that are better than others. I'm just wondering what your different experience are with some oils and why you would recommend some and not others. I hear alot of talk about Royal Purple or something like that, what does it offer that others dont?

WOSB:

PM me if you want detailed information on choosing motor oil and transmission fluid for the Marauder.

[Thomas C Potter]

Pre-Luber, syn oil, accelerate easy, do not turn steering wheel with car stopped (hard on all fe parts)

TP

[mcb26]

I've always used motorcraft oil, and put at least 100k on everything I,ve owned. Change oil every 3k.

[mark751]

Hi everyone i just sold my 1999 t-bird 4.6 liter it had 238.000 orignal miles on it and all the stock parts, yes all... if you want your Marauder to last I recommend using synthetics in all the oils I use Royal Purple Sae 5W-30 in my Marauder works well I also use a K&N air filter which can be cleaned and reused.
lets not forget that DIRT is the enemy of any engine, that said it is IMPORTANT to replace your air filter to prolong the life of the engine. Lets not forget about the fuel filter very important often over looked. a cloggeg filter can reduce the life of a fuel pump. I plan on seeing 400.000 miles on my maurader..

[BAD MERC]

Change the oil!! Routine maintenance like hoses, fluids and lubrication are the only defense against broken stuff. I have successfully gotten in excess of 200,000 miles out of my last three cars. Even my 1995 Taurus had 285,000 miles on it and I would drive it to Savannah on a last-minute notion. It had a stock motor, a tranny cooler and a superchip and I run nothing but Valvoline in my cars. I sold the Taurus two years ago when I got my Marauder and still see it driving around.

[BAD MERC]

My "To-Do" list once I get my Marauder is only getting longer, I really do appreciate the feedback. But about the motor oil, there has to be some that are better than others. I mean I know you guys wouldnt run a 5W-20 oil that only costs .48 in your Marauder. I'm just wondering what your different experience are with some oils and why you would recommend some and not others. I hear alot of talk about Royal Purple or something like that, what does it offer that others dont?

Royal Purple is 100% synthetic. I run 5w20 Valvoline (white bottle) and do changes MYSELF religiously at 3K miles. Some guys love the RP but at $7 a bottle it seems a little high. Sorry guys. I use Royal Purple in the Guardian generator attached to the house because of the two or more years that it may not be used and then the solid week of non-stop HOT running it does when the power is out. I ran synthetic Bel-Ray 2 stroke lube in my Suzuki and never had a top-end issue. I swear by it there but I use off-the-shelf stuff for my car and have 100% satisfaction. I would run synthetic in hot, hard running motors but normal driving and cruising does not need that kind of extra expense in my opinion.

[Zack]

Slick50 rules.
It got rid of a cold start knock in our 76 Buick years ago.
dont knock it til you try it :up:

[bigmerc'03]

i used to use this stuff called greased lightning in the oil and gas

[JimmyXR7]

Slick50 rules.
It got rid of a cold start knock in our 76 Buick years ago.
dont knock it til you try it :up:

I agree, however a lot of people misuse stuff and then complain.

I notice you had great results with an older car. I would never use the after market ‘snake oil’ products on a newer car. I have added slick 50 to my engines with good results but always waited until the engine had over 50K miles on it. It gives about 0.5 miles per gallon better gas mileage.

My Marauder is too young to add any of these products to it.

Background: Engines are accelerated aged for dimensional stability, but for race engines I would recommend rebuilding an engine with 30K to 40K miles on it as the natural aging from the heat cycles will slightly change the dimensions. With these slight dimensional changes and cold start-ups wearing the journal bearings in the engine by 50,000 miles some of the engine clearances are no longer per ‘blueprint’. Addition of the Slick 50 allows Tefon to attach to the microscopic wear scars on the bearings which give a slight benefit in gas mileage.

Another ‘snake oil’ product I would recommend is the Valvoline high mileage oil. At about 75K to 90K miles my vehicle engines have started to use oil, but it has always been the seals leaking. The High mileage oil stops the oil leaks and valve seal leaks. I use only one quart per oil change on the lower mileage vehicles and the vehicles with higher mileage I use more, as needed, to control the leakage.
Example my 1992 firebird with 105K I use 1 quart per oil change, my 1991 Bronco with 120K I use 2 quarts, the 1986 Grand Marquis with 147K miles I use 3 quarts per oil change.

This last spring I dusted off my 1983 Harley FLH and rode across town to the motorcycle parts store. When I came out of the store a large puddle of oil was under the Harley. I could not find the leak and it appeared like every seal was leaking. I thought I was going to have to rebuild the engine but finally remembered the Valvoline High Mileage Oil. I added one quart of 20-50W Valvoline High Mileage oil. Went for an hour long ride to fully warm the engine and the motor has not leaked since. Of course, I know the Harley dealer will tell me I should only add Harley oil to it, but it worked! So I got another riding season out of it without spending the big bucks for a rebuilt motor.
I only use these additives when the engines get older and a problem needs to be solved and have had great results.
How about some recommendations regarding Stabil gas additive?
Jim