Rear shock(s) tire wear

[rayaa]

Dealer had to replace passenger side rear shock- would not recoil from 1/2 way down.

He planned to replace both rear shocks but one of the new shocks was defective at arrival. second new shock is on order.

I bought the Marauder new, 03, 10,789 miles as of today.

As a after note- all 4 tires are shot- rears in center, fronts on inside and outer edges. Dealer did check alignment 3 weeks ago- said the car was within standards. Had 4 new tires put on today also- total $488 from Tire Rack. I will have a shop do a thrust alignment and have specs checked prior to akignment.

2003 MM black/black 4:10 rear iridiums new pulleys thermo & chip all from Dennis

[Bradley G]

I will have a shop do a thrust alignment and have specs checked prior to akignment.Quote
Please explain
I read that the specs from the factory are not correct.You may want to be sure that the spec is accurate.10k is well under the average life for front tires with proper alignment and maintaining correct inflation.
Bradley G

[ghost03]

The inside edge wear of the front tires is caused by 2 things: negative camber and negative toe (toe out). Caster is not a tire wearing angle. The outside edge wear can be caused by excessive toe in and aggressive cornering.

Factory camber spec is -.5 degrees +or- .75 degrees
Factory toe spec is -.15 degrees +or- .20 degrees
(BTW, this info came from their website which is updated periodically and may differ from previously published material, such as cd's and paper manuals)

That means your alignment could have -1.25 degrees of camber and toe out of -.35 degrees and still be in the "green". This will wipe out the inside edges in <20K miles IMO.

All of the MM's I've aligned (about 10) had at least -1.0 degrees of camber and always toe out of -.10 degrees or more from the factory. That's why almost all MM's you see have excessive inside edge tire wear.

For best tire wear, here is what I use on all MM alignments:
Camber: 0 to -.3 degrees.*
Toe: Zero degrees.
Caster: 5-6.5 degrees positive with .3 degree lead on the right side.

*Camber can affect cornering feel. The more negative camber you have, the better it will handle corners. Most drivers will never feel the difference, especially on the street.
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[Marauderjack]

Keep the fronts at 38 PSI and rears at 40 PSI for longer life...GUARANTEED!!! :banana2: :beer: :bows:

Marauderjack :)

[Bradley G]

I appreciate your experience Ghost03,Does this match the spec Ford sets or Is this what you have found in real life experience?
Bradley G
The inside edge wear of the front tires is caused by 2 things: negative camber and negative toe (toe out). Caster is not a tire wearing angle. The outside edge wear can be caused by excessive toe in and aggressive cornering.

Factory camber spec is -.5 degrees +or- .75 degrees
Factory toe spec is -.15 degrees +or- .20 degrees
(BTW, this info came from their website which is updated periodically and may differ from previously published material, such as cd's and paper manuals)

That means your alignment could have -1.25 degrees of camber and toe out of -.35 degrees and still be in the "green". This will wipe out the inside edges in <20K miles IMO.

All of the MM's I've aligned (about 10) had at least -1.0 degrees of camber and always toe out of -.10 degrees or more from the factory. That's why almost all MM's you see have excessive inside edge tire wear.

For best tire wear, here is what I use on all MM alignments:
Camber: 0 to -.3 degrees.*
Toe: Zero degrees.
Caster: 5-6.5 degrees positive with .3 degree lead on the right side.

*Camber can affect cornering feel. The more negative camber you have, the better it will handle corners. Most drivers will never feel the difference, especially on the street.
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[John F. Russo]

Keep the fronts at 38 PSI and rears at 40 PSI for longer life...GUARANTEED!!! :banana2: :beer: :bows:

Marauderjack :)


I had excellent even wear with 32 psig on all tires for more than 20,000 miles.

______________________________ _____________________
2003 Dark Blue Pearl 300B (Canadian) w/Light Flint (reversed
traction control, mini spare, trunked 6 disc CD changer,
clock-in-the-radio, heated front seats/mirrors, hood light)
-Born 12/10/02; converted new then used 2/28/03
-36,000 miles
-18.5 mpg at a steady speed of 80 mph, one tank of gas
-Stock transmission upgraded with Performance Automatic
"Super Streeter" transmission version
-Wheel locks (Ford); godshead valve stem caps
-Badgeless front grille by “Zack”
-Zaino waxing; RainX; front Autobhanded
Kenny Brown: 6th “Signature Series” conversion (450 hp) Born
3/28/03 (first drove it)
-Vortech supercharger (5 to 7 psig boost)
-377 RWTQ
-Metco control arms, black powdered coated
-4.10 gears
-14 in. BaerClaw front brakes, two piston, slotted rotors
-MMX Driveshaft
-Precision, triple disc, P/N469018-3 Precision, triple disc, P/N469018-3
3500 rpm stall speed
-Ford Racing Stud and Girdle
-Pirelli P-Zero Asimmetrico (front 255/45ZR18 99Y; rear
255/50ZR18 102Y)
-Dead pedal
-FordChip
-3/4 of a coil from each front stock spring removed to produce
the “same” effect as an Eibach spring
-Ground clearance: 5 in.
______________________________ ___________________________
1961 Ford Galaxie, 2 dr. Club Victoria, 390CID, 375hp, 4 barrel (gone)