Garage door opener (homelink system)

[Matt In Detroit]

Any one else have problems with their Homelink System (garage door opener) in the overhead console? Ours was working intermittently and has now totally failed. You cant reprogram it or anything. The compass is still working though. Anything to look at before I take it in?

[fastblackmerc]

Any one else have problems with their Homelink System (garage door opener) in the overhead console? Ours was working intermittently and has now totally failed. You cant reprogram it or anything. The compass is still working though. Anything to look at before I take it in?
Sorry I can't help... mine has worked with no problems for almost a year now...

[duhtroll]

The only place mine will not work is sitting directly in front of the garage. It works half a block away or inside the garage, just not directly in front of it.

:dunno:

-A

[gpfarrell]

Our's has worked fine ever since I pulled the console down and plugged the wiring harness together... maybe your's has worked its way loose?

[Shaft333]

I have to press and hold the button down for about a half a second to one second. It almost seems like the rolling code portion of programming didn't take and every button press requires a resync or something.

[rauder775]

I still have not got mine to work. The Dealer said i had to call a 800# and have them "arm" it??? Thought that was nuts. Been using my trusty sears remote instead. Have tried following the manual several times, codes never work.

Any thoughts???

[Petrograde]

I still have not got mine to work. The Dealer said i had to call a 800# and have them "arm" it??? Thought that was nuts. Been using my trusty sears remote instead. Have tried following the manual several times, codes never work.

Any thoughts???

yup,.. I read the manual,.. tried to program it several times to no avail,.. screw it, my remote clips nicely to my visor.

[DEFYANT]

Same here.

I could not get the Homelink to work either.

[69mach1]

Same response from the dealer for me, call a 1-800# to which a year later I haven't made the call yet. Guess I should do it pretty soon :o

[jgc61sr2002]

Programed mine as per the owners manual and never had a problem.:D

[merc6]

so is this a silent 300A Vs 300B issue?

[Vortex]

Mine has worked fine, but it doesnt have a real long range.

[valleyman]

Like Vortex, mine works fine but the range is only about half a block.

[STLR FN]

I have an '04 and programmed mine following the manual 4X and it still doesn't work. Oh well garage door opener clip nicely to the visor also.

[the_pack_rat]

Funny I come here & see this, as I am still PISSED about this very subject from just a couple of hours ago as I speak. I just got done wiring in & installing an OEM overhead console(trip computer & Homelink) in a Dakota & zipping everything all back together.

I was all cleaned up & ready to go back outside to program the buttons but I head over to the front door first to UN-lock it & say to my wife(she's back home from the hospital) ... "don't be startled if I come in thru the front door instead of from the garage. Something tells me I'll be LOCKED out of the garage" ..... which of course' I eventually was. The garage opener I have in my garage is a "Wayne-Dalton" unit.

After not too much muss & fuss(but nevertheless SOME) ... I get all (3) buttons in the Dakota working. But past experience at this house told me my work was FAR from over(had problems getting this opener to work with Homelinks before). Sure as chitt ... I open up the Town Car & check the Homelink in that ...... don't work anymore. Open up the MM & check that ..... also NOTHING. :rolleyes:

Get (1) button working on the Town Car again ..... but then the garage remote decides to stop working ... thus - no longer of any use holding up to the Homelink to aid in programming it(same thing happened to me before NUMEROUS times trying to do this with this opener when we moved in). 5 minutes after that ..... the garage door unit itself has decided it has had enough up & down runs for the moment & shuts itself down(to be expected - built in protection).

After the garage door takes a 1/2 hour hiatus & is working again via the inside switch ..... I go back out in the Dakota & now those buttons are all USELESS. :mad2:

At this point ... the idea of taking a baseball bat to the opener unit was giving me a really perverse tingly feeling south of the border. But as much as it would have given me great pleasure to do so ..... I didn't want all the flying debris destroying the cars & everything else. Probably wouldn't have done much for my wifes state of mind either.

My point ?.

What brands of garage door opener units are you all running ?. Maybe some openers just don't play well with Homelinks ..... no matter whether you follow the garage door opener instructions OR the vehicles owners manual instructions to set up the Homelink(s). Again & again & again ... over & over & over to a "T".

In the past I've programmed the (2) Mountaineers I had with Homelinks, to a Craftsman opener(purchased by me) with rolling code technology and had NO issues WHATSOEVER. Each was programmed in a matter of minutes & worked the first time around.

This Wayne-Dalton brand POS thing here just seems to go all fubar when you run thru the steps to program Homelinks. Ya' get ONE thing working ... then everything else will CEASE to work any more. Took me like a MONTH after moving into this house to finally get the Town Car - MM & both remotes ALL programmed & working TOGETHER all at the SAME time. How the hell I got everything all working before is BEYOND me(luck is about all I can come up with).

I am going to Sears tomorrow or during the week & Wayne-Dalton is gonna die a really PAINFUL death in the very near future ..... I've had it with that thing. I dont care if it's only 3 yrs old(as the rest of the house) ... it's DONE.

When we were renting ... there was some "Blue Max" or some similar named chintzy POS there that didn't like to play nice with Homelinks either.

[BruteForce]

Mine has worked great since the day I bought it 2 years ago.

[rayjay]

I could not get mine to work for almost a year too. Then the battery in my wifes remote died. When I replaced it I had to reprogram the remote using the opener, hmm , I wonder , yep , did the same procedure with the DTR, BINGO! Works great.

[Mike Poore]

We use Genie openers, and programing the thing is a real trip.

First, there's the engrish instructions, both on the opener and the homelink booklet from Ford. The flashing red buttons, the several second delay, not to mention the ridiculous small print in the instructions from hell, Ford calls an owner's manual, with it's 80,000 pages of a$$ covering warnings saying you could be killed doing this or that. We've done it several times with multiple cars, and have two doors to programme. (feeling continental this morning)
When it doesn't work, you have to decide if it's the homelink thingey or the opener. (how do you spell frustration) Once you're done, and it's working, it's pretty cool though ...just don't change anything......first time, every time y'know. :D

:laugh:Don't forget the part about climbing over the seat, crawling out the passenger's window, running around the car three times, clockwise, and singing the first three stanzas from the CAM drinking song, while standing on your head, then .......

[67435animal]

Go to: http://www.homelink.com/home/home.tml

I have it in two cars. Homelink has worked for me since the very beginning and for two different houses.

Bob

[looking97233]

When my car was new I could not get the home link to work. I looked at the website homelink.com... my garage opener was too old. I bought a new adapter thingy(it's a technicial term.) The thingy basicly is a new wireless recievier and remote which you wire in-line with the wired button. The new reciever has the rolling code stuff in it. After installing this, I used the remote which came with it to program the car from sitting inside the garage. It has worked perfectly for over three years. I bought the new thingy at home depot. I believe the cost was less than $50.


Rod.

[stevengerard]

Mine works fine - right from the start. Once in a blue moon it doesn't work at all and all I need to do is restart the car and it works fine. You have to be pretty close to the opener itself to get it programmed. Though I have never been able to disable the seatbelt warning.

[marauder307]

When I moved out here, this was the first time that I'd actually had the Hulk garaged since I owned it. I was kinda excited about the prospect of being able to actually use this much-vaunted Homelink system.

Now...I'll cut to the end and tell you that all is well; I got the durn thing programmed. The unit in our garage is an Aviator---apparently available through the local Sears outlet. AND it's a rolling-code setup, although I didn't know that right away...

But telling you all that cuts out the fun of the story! So here we go...

After a bit of perusal with the manual, I park the Hulk outside. Sitting in the car, I push the Homelink till it blinks at me, then point the clicker at the overhead console, then push the HL button again. Should have it, right? Nope....

Ok, must be a rolling-code unit. No problem. Go inside the garage, look at the back of the unit. Oh...there's a plastic shield on the thing. Ok, get ladder. Sweat the ladder into place, climb up, look inside plastic shield...ah-HA! There's an orange "Learn" button there!

Ok. Back down ladder, go look at manual again. Push HL button again, run like hell for the ladder, climb up, almost bust noggin on garage ceiling, push "Learn" button, fall back down ladder, dash to car, push HL button again.
Should have it, right? NOPE.....:shake:

The neighbors are watching now; I live in a condo/townhouse complex and the folks across the parking alley have a great view of this from their porch. I can hear them over my shoulder: "Jane, what's he doing now?" "I don't know, Bob, but he doesn't look entirely right...he's sweating and saying lots of nasty words really loud. And that car..." "I know, honey...why, it almost sucked little Billy straight in through the grille the other day. I thought I was never going to be able to pull him out of there..." Or something to that effect.

So there I was. Awright, we're gonna get this if it kills me...look at manual again. Push HL button, run like hell for the ladder, almost knock ladder over, cuss VERY loudly, fly up ladder, push "Learn" button, bark knuckles on garage door motor housing, fall off ladder, land on a$$ on floor, get up and run like hell for car, point clicker at overhead console, push HL button again, run like hell for ladder, fly up ladder, hit head on ceiling AGAIN, push "Learn" button to close out its learning session. Should have it, right?

Well, somewhere in there I did, because I went back out to Hulk...actually, more like "hobbled" because my posterior still hurt...tried the button again and it worked. FINALLY....:mad2:

Here's the rather lengthy bottom line:

In order to make the HL system work with a rolling-code setup, it looks to me like not only do you have to teach the car, but you have to teach the opener receiver as well. To do this, you have to put both HL and the receiver into their respective learning modes simultaneously. What the owner's manual doesn't tell you is that this is definitely a four-handed operation; either get your spouse-significant other-best bud to work the garage door receiver while you work the car, or vice versa, and synchronize yourselves on your button-pushing.

Unfortunately, I'm going to frustrate you a little bit here...because I'm going to offer the disclaimer that this crazy-a$$ Marauder-HomeLink-Chinese fire drill may only work with the particular system that I'm using.

Hopefully, somewhere in all this silliness, I've helped you out a little. Oh, the epilogue? After putting everything away, I went inside, got a beer, and spent the next hour cooling off and cussing electronics in general. I got over it after I went to leave the next day, pushed the HL button to open the garage door, and it went up just like advertised. Guess my sore butt was worth it...

[texascorvette]

Go to: http://www.homelink.com/home/home.tml

I have it in two cars. Homelink has worked for me since the very beginning and for two different houses.

BobThe units in my wife's '03 Expedition and my '04 Marauder work fine with our Genie door opener. They are complicated to program, though.

[ckadiddle]

I still haven't gotten around to trying to program my Homelink buttons. Maybe if I stand on the wife's Mustang convertible top I can reach the opener without digging out the ladder....
:lol:

[LordVader]

I have a Liftmaster type opener and my Home Link works fine. As a matter of fact using the directions I programmed the MM and the wife's Maxima, and both have been working for over a year.

[Eric91Z]

Mine has worked too. I bought my car as a year old, used car with 5600 miles on it. I have been waiting to have a car with HomeLink to get rid of the door opener as ours only work from like the end of the driveway at most.

Programmed the HomeLink using the instructions and had it done in about 5 minutes. Longest time was getting the ladder out, removing the light on the garage door opener to get to the program button there, and then back in the car. Works from almost a full block away. Got to love it.

I then installed an outside keypad and was able to program that without any effect on the HomeLink in the car. Not that it should, but I did get a little worried. Now I don't carry the garage door opener any more which is nice as it is bigger than a pack of cigarette's and I have better stuff to do with that space.

[ahess77]

Here's a brief description of what needs to happen to program a rolling code with the HomeLink system.

1. HomeLink system needs to determine your garage door's frequency/id. That's what happens when you hold the homelink buttons until it's flashing then you push your remote opener button until the homelink light changes. The analogy here is that your HomeLink needs to know what "language" your garage door speaks (English, German, French, Sears, etc.)

2. Your HomeLink needs to be synchronized to your garage door's rolling code sequence. That takes two steps, your HomeLink needs to transmit the next code and your garage door opener has to be told to accept that new code. This is where you press the learn button on the garage door opener and then press the transmit button on the HomeLink. When you press the learn button, the garage door opener is told to "listen and pay attention for the password". Then the HomeLink now needs to "say the new password." Usually the garage door opener will "listen" for 30 seconds or so and whatever transmitter issues the next "password", it will be recorded by the garage door opener.

Now our HomeLink transmitters are capable of learning 3 "languages", one for each button. It can transmit the next sequential code in each of the 3 languages so it can be synchronized to only 3 rolling code openers at a time.

The way the rolling code works is that the opener and the transmitter have the same program that tells how to calculate the next code based on the existing code. So, each time you transmit a code, your HomeLink sends that code and caculates the next code it's going to send. The garage door opener also knows what code is next and will accept it (or up to the next few codes). If you hit your HomeLink button many times, you keep changing to the next code each time you transmit. If you do this out-of-range of the garage door opener, you get ahead of the code the garage door opener is expecting. If the code is advanced too many ahead without the garage door opener "hearing" the code then the garage door opener no longer recognizes your HomeLink as "authorized" and you have to resynchronize them by step 2 above. So, if your kids push the button while they're waiting on you at the grocery store, then you may not be synchronized when you get back home and it won't work by no fault of the HomeLink system. It's just doing what it's suppose to do.

Hope this helps.

[the_pack_rat]

Here's the rather lengthy bottom line:

In order to make the HL system work with a rolling-code setup, it looks to me like not only do you have to teach the car, but you have to teach the opener receiver as well. To do this, you have to put both HL and the receiver into their respective learning modes simultaneously. What the owner's manual doesn't tell you is that this is definitely a four-handed operation; either get your spouse-significant other-best bud to work the garage door receiver while you work the car, or vice versa, and synchronize yourselves on your button-pushing.

An extra person does make this go a bit quicker ... but it's not a must.

With the rolling code technology stuff ...... the first step to programming the HL still hold true(assuming all HL buttons have been "cleared already). You still go thru the same process of holding up a garage remote & holding it's button & one on the HL at the same time ..... till the HL light blinks rapidly or in the case of an 04 MM w/a moonroof, the display tells you channel "X" has been trained. Not sure if the NON moonroof cars(03 or 04) spell all this out or not - as other display functions are abbreviated I believe.

Button NOT moving the garage door up or down yet ? ..... it's ok, it's NOT supposed to yet.

Now onto the SECOND step you need to do with the rolling code tech openers ...

Get your step stool - ladder/whatever you need & get the car as close as possible to the head unit(NOT in the way of the garage door coming down on it) & make sure you have a quick & easy path to it(the car) ... as you only have a certain amount of time to get back in the car & press the previously set up HL button ... AFTER you press the program/train button on your garage door openers head unit.

This means no stopping to grab a beer on the way - pet the cat/dog - play kissey face with your S/O - admire a Zaino shine etc etc ..... once you press that program/train button on the head unit of the garage door opener ..... high tail it right back to the car ASAP & press the button in question you had programmed before(you have like 30 secs or so). Once you press the HL button ... the door SHOULD cycle open or closed if you were successful. Didn't work ? - don't go ballistic just yet ... press the button again or perhaps even a third time. At this point the garage door should be responding.

The problem I have with the Wayne Dalton POS thing here is .....

Once I set up ONE vehicle & get it working ... doing the other (2) more often than NOT seems to fubar up the previous set up & working car(s) HL's & sometimes even one or both of the garage remote(s) will CEASE to work.(have to go-back & TRY to re-train the NON working thing in question again.)

Additionally ..... I can NOT get ALL (3) buttons in each of my HL equipped cars to control the garage door. I can only get (1) button per car to work/play nicely all together with the other cars ... whereas in theory, I should be able to have (9) buttons working between the (3) cars(all 3 in each car).

After waisting yet another 2.5 hours of my life yesterday afternoon .....

I have now gotten (1) button in each cars HL to work. I lost BOTH remotes functions at some point & got ONE of them working again.

Screw the second remote at this point ...

As this is probably as good as it's going to get.

I'm still going to get a new Craftsman unit(which appear to be a Liftmaster made units).

[Marauder24]

Mines work fine. But it acts up when my nieghbor car is next to mines.

[texascorvette]

Had to Reprogram the MM a couple months ago, and the wife's new Expedition last summer. A real pain, but they work well.

And they're a whole bunch easier to program than the one in the new 'Vette!

[Aren Jay]

Mine works 99.9% of the time, the other time it will work as if it was a double click.

[03Farmmarauder]

Funny I come here & see this, as I am still PISSED about this very subject from just a couple of hours ago as I speak. I just got done wiring in & installing an OEM overhead console(trip computer & Homelink) in a Dakota & zipping everything all back together.

I was all cleaned up & ready to go back outside to program the buttons but I head over to the front door first to UN-lock it & say to my wife(she's back home from the hospital) ... "don't be startled if I come in thru the front door instead of from the garage. Something tells me I'll be LOCKED out of the garage" ..... which of course' I eventually was. The garage opener I have in my garage is a "Wayne-Dalton" unit.

After not too much muss & fuss(but nevertheless SOME) ... I get all (3) buttons in the Dakota working. But past experience at this house told me my work was FAR from over(had problems getting this opener to work with Homelinks before). Sure as chitt ... I open up the Town Car & check the Homelink in that ...... don't work anymore. Open up the MM & check that ..... also NOTHING. :rolleyes:

Get (1) button working on the Town Car again ..... but then the garage remote decides to stop working ... thus - no longer of any use holding up to the Homelink to aid in programming it(same thing happened to me before NUMEROUS times trying to do this with this opener when we moved in). 5 minutes after that ..... the garage door unit itself has decided it has had enough up & down runs for the moment & shuts itself down(to be expected - built in protection).

After the garage door takes a 1/2 hour hiatus & is working again via the inside switch ..... I go back out in the Dakota & now those buttons are all USELESS. :mad2:

At this point ... the idea of taking a baseball bat to the opener unit was giving me a really perverse tingly feeling south of the border. But as much as it would have given me great pleasure to do so ..... I didn't want all the flying debris destroying the cars & everything else. Probably wouldn't have done much for my wifes state of mind either.

My point ?.

What brands of garage door opener units are you all running ?. Maybe some openers just don't play well with Homelinks ..... no matter whether you follow the garage door opener instructions OR the vehicles owners manual instructions to set up the Homelink(s). Again & again & again ... over & over & over to a "T".

In the past I've programmed the (2) Mountaineers I had with Homelinks, to a Craftsman opener(purchased by me) with rolling code technology and had NO issues WHATSOEVER. Each was programmed in a matter of minutes & worked the first time around.

This Wayne-Dalton brand POS thing here just seems to go all fubar when you run thru the steps to program Homelinks. Ya' get ONE thing working ... then everything else will CEASE to work any more. Took me like a MONTH after moving into this house to finally get the Town Car - MM & both remotes ALL programmed & working TOGETHER all at the SAME time. How the hell I got everything all working before is BEYOND me(luck is about all I can come up with).

I am going to Sears tomorrow or during the week & Wayne-Dalton is gonna die a really PAINFUL death in the very near future ..... I've had it with that thing. I dont care if it's only 3 yrs old(as the rest of the house) ... it's DONE.

When we were renting ... there was some "Blue Max" or some similar named chintzy POS there that didn't like to play nice with Homelinks either.

You are correct if you call Homelink they will tell you what openers and model numbers work with Homelink. Some Wayne-Daltons work but as i have a new construction also the newer Wayne-Daltons do not work with Homelink.

[ckadiddle]

I did get around to programming the MM to open the garage door. I think my door opener is a Chamberlin brand. It's only a few years old.

[Vortex]

Mine has worked fine for four years now.

[Stangracer89]

Hello all. Not only Marauder owner but also a senior technician with the Overhead Door Corp. I program about 50 of these damn things a week over the phone. I would love to help out my fellow Marauder guys & Gals with this problem and dispel some of the mysteries behind GDO’s & Homelink. All Major garage door opener companies changed to the more secure “Rolling Code” systems in 1996-1998. Overhead Door systems are called CD or CodeDodger. Genie systems are called IC or Intellicode. All Marauders contain the 3rd generation of Homelink controllers. You should have a RED LED and a house symbol above the 3 buttons. To program your HomeLink system to operate an OHD or Genie GDO you should:
1. Erase programming from HomeLink. Press and hold the two outside HomeLink buttons until the LED starts blinking.
2. Press and hold the desired HomeLink button and press and hold your remote control button at the same time while holding your remote control within 3 inches of the Homelink buttons.
3. The Homelink LED should go from a blink to a flicker when programming is excepted.
4. Press the GDO’s Learn button. This will be located under the light cover or rear panel of the motor head depending on model.
5. Within 30 seconds, press the programmed Homelink button 3 to 4 times slowly until the garage door starts to move.

Some cars will need to be running while programming. You can program and operate as many rolling code units from one button as you wish and not worry about getting out of “sync” I have one button programmed into 3 units in 3 states and they all work every time. If you have an older unit or need any help call me.
OHD technical service 800-275-6187, Option 2 for residential tech’s-Option 2 for Rick Barnes.
Happy Motoring!

[shiftmaster]

Hello all. Not only Marauder owner but also a senior technician with the Overhead Door Corp. I program about 50 of these damn things a week over the phone. I would love to help out my fellow Marauder guys & Gals with this problem and dispel some of the mysteries behind GDO’s & Homelink. All Major garage door opener companies changed to the more secure “Rolling Code” systems in 1996-1998. Overhead Door systems are called CD or CodeDodger. Genie systems are called IC or Intellicode. All Marauders contain the 3rd generation of Homelink controllers. You should have a RED LED and a house symbol above the 3 buttons. To program your HomeLink system to operate an OHD or Genie GDO you should:
1.Erase programming from HomeLink. Press and hold the two outside HomeLink buttons until the LED starts blinking.
2.Press and hold the desired HomeLink button and press and hold your remote control button at the same time while holding your remote control within 3 inches of the Homelink buttons.
3.The Homelink LED should go from a blink to a flicker when programming is excepted.
4.Press the GDO’s Learn button. This will be located under the light cover or rear panel of the motor head depending on model.
5.Within 30 seconds, press the programmed Homelink button 3 to 4 times slowly until the garage door starts to move.

Some cars will need to be running while programming. You can program and operate as many rolling code units from one button as you wish and not worry about getting out of “sync” I have one button programmed into 3 units in 3 states and they all work every time. If you have an older unit or need any help call me.
OHD technical service 800-275-6187, Option 2 for residential tech’s-Option 2 for Rick Barnes.
Happy Motoring!
worked for me thanks


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[badass mm]

mine didn't work when I got my mm so I ordered a different counsel and the one I got works so may be u need to get a different one

[88LTDCV351]

I've only been using mine for the last year and it works great. Got to make sure to push and hold down the button though.

[justbob]

Too bad Homelink is old news. I'm back to using an opener with the newer MyQ technology.


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