Traction-Lok rebuild, need details?

[metroplex]

What do I need to know for a Traction-Lok rebuild?
I just wanted to get as many details/info from as many boards possible before doing it.

The last time I did research on the Detroit TrueTrac, there had been an ongoing discussion on Corner Carvers about bolt failures. THis was a YEAR before I installed it in my car (Jan 2003). Fast forward to April 2005. 3 of the 4 side cap bolts are busted... so I'm going to fix it up and set it aside for a new differential.

It looks like I can either go with the STOCK layout (4 steel, 3 clutch) or the alternating method (4 friction, 3 steel).

My guess is that the people that experienced premature clutch failure either used too much FM from the factory or the preload/tension wasn't set right (wrong shim size).

If it's a decent tight fit with just enough FM, it might help the clutches last longer???

Any tips for DIY carrier bearing swaps?

[RoyLPita]

Stock Traction Lok is cheap. You could find one used at a Mustang hop up place for about $50. Clutches are a little more and can be had at any Ford/Lincoln Mercury dealer.

[wchain]

I thought u put a TrueTrac in the Vic? Or is this on the van?



What do I need to know for a Traction-Lok rebuild?
I just wanted to get as many details/info from as many boards possible before doing it.

The last time I did research on the Detroit TrueTrac, there had been an ongoing discussion on Corner Carvers about bolt failures. THis was a YEAR before I installed it in my car (Jan 2003). Fast forward to April 2005. 3 of the 4 side cap bolts are busted... so I'm going to fix it up and set it aside for a new differential.

It looks like I can either go with the STOCK layout (4 steel, 3 clutch) or the alternating method (4 friction, 3 steel).

My guess is that the people that experienced premature clutch failure either used too much FM from the factory or the preload/tension wasn't set right (wrong shim size).

If it's a decent tight fit with just enough FM, it might help the clutches last longer???

Any tips for DIY carrier bearing swaps?

[metroplex]

Wes: I started some threads in CVN about this...

I blew up the TrueTrac :eek: :wtf:
I have the snapped bolts to prove it (Grade 8, snapped under tension).
It's apparently a very common problem with Mustangs... and the solution is to either get it replaced under warranty (Tractech now uses 3/8-24 tpi fine thread bolts) OR DIY and replace the Grade 8 bolts with ARP or Grade 9.

I'll have to use broken screw extractors to extract four broken screws (2 of which will be FLUSH with the surface) and do some work...

My plan is to just install a Traction-Lok and repair the TrueTrac keeping the TT as a backup differential ready-to-go in case the T-lok clutches burn out.

So far the +1 clutch mod for the T-lok looks very appealing.

[wchain]

Wes: I started some threads in CVN about this...

I blew up the TrueTrac :eek: :wtf:
I have the snapped bolts to prove it (Grade 8, snapped under tension).
It's apparently a very common problem with Mustangs... and the solution is to either get it replaced under warranty (Tractech now uses 3/8-24 tpi fine thread bolts) OR DIY and replace the Grade 8 bolts with ARP or Grade 9.

I'll have to use broken screw extractors to extract four broken screws (2 of which will be FLUSH with the surface) and do some work...

My plan is to just install a Traction-Lok and repair the TrueTrac keeping the TT as a backup differential ready-to-go in case the T-lok clutches burn out.

So far the +1 clutch mod for the T-lok looks very appealing.

WHOA! So you think the Trac Lock is better thanthe TT? I dont even think the one in my car works....(4K miles)

[RoyLPita]

Wes: I started some threads in CVN about this...

I blew up the TrueTrac :eek: :wtf:
I have the snapped bolts to prove it (Grade 8, snapped under tension).
It's apparently a very common problem with Mustangs... and the solution is to either get it replaced under warranty (Tractech now uses 3/8-24 tpi fine thread bolts) OR DIY and replace the Grade 8 bolts with ARP or Grade 9.

I'll have to use broken screw extractors to extract four broken screws (2 of which will be FLUSH with the surface) and do some work...

My plan is to just install a Traction-Lok and repair the TrueTrac keeping the TT as a backup differential ready-to-go in case the T-lok clutches burn out.

So far the +1 clutch mod for the T-lok looks very appealing.


What do the grade 9 bolts sell for? If it is just that and what's left can be easily removed then just change the bolts and install new fluid.

[metroplex]

The cost of fixing the TT and adding new fluid is much less than going with the Traction-Lok route.

However, the chances are good that the broken screws in the TT will be a PITA to remove assuming I don't destroy the threads. There's also the possibility that it will break in the future... this appears (to me at least) a design flaw compounded with improper material choice or sub-standard material quality. Replacing the bolts with L9 is just a band-aid fix for a design flaw - you're essentially removing the weakest link and replacing it with something that is slightly less weak. That's just a thought that came up in my head... going with 3/8-24 fine threaded bolts isn't necessarily going to solve this problem unless it's a stronger material with a shoulder (partially threaded). Stock Grade 8 bolts were fully threaded and looked like cheap bolts.

Wes: I came up with the theory that the factory Traction-Lok builds fail because of improper tension/pre-load on the clutches along with too much FM. Ford would do this to eliminate customer complaints about clutch chatter. My plan is to add the thickest shims possible but still allowing me to install the spider gears and stock S-spring (F-150 S-Spring seems totally pointless to me), and then add only 4 oz of FM (from what I have read, 4-6 oz of FM is a good amount. Anything less than 4 is too little, more than 4-6 is bad news).

The reason I feel the F-150 S-Spring is pointless is because there are other Visteon Traction-Lok units that utilize different methods of applying initial pre-load (which is why the S-Spring is there in the first place). The S-spring's job is just that, initial pre-load. After that, IIRC, the axles take up the slack by themselves when you get on the throttle. The axles slide away from the pinion shaft and there's a lot of tension on the clutch/steel pack. The stock S-Spring is still needed, but a larger "tighter fitting" S-Spring may not add any thing more that is noticeable. The extra clutch per side does appear to help though.

On the Dana 60 Traction-Lok (E-250), there is no S-Spring. Instead it uses cup washers (like crush washers used on the AR-15 muzzle for attaching flash suppressors or compensators) to apply initial preload.
This is just my theory of course but it seems to be in-check with what I have observed.