Transmission Temps?

[DEFYANT]

Whats bad?

Just double checking... The Tranny runs at about 160* during normal operation. If I have a sprited run (Valkyrie ;)), the temps run around 200*.

I am hooked into the case if that matters. I have the tranny temp manifold from Autometer and plan to hook into the tranny fluid line in the future.

Thanks. :)

PS I searched but couldnt fin the answer :hide:

[SergntMac]

I read you post, couldn't find a question...




Oh wait, I see it now...230 degrees is bad. 250 degrees is sick. Haven't seen much worse, because death interrupted the investigation.

Like IATs, spikes are expected, and dealt with. 175 degrees is comfortable for cruising, you can live with 210 degrees after running the 1320. More than that should be investigated, it can be improved.

Okay with you?

[Donny Carlson]

Whats bad?

Just double checking... The Tranny runs at about 160* during normal operation. If I have a sprited run (Valkyrie ;)), the temps run around 200*.

I am hooked into the case if that matters. I have the tranny temp manifold from Autometer and plan to hook into the tranny fluid line in the future.

Thanks. :)

PS I searched but couldnt fin the answer :hide:
It an older thead, I recall reading that 160-180 is the optimal range. My gauge is digital, so when the car has been sitting for some time (24 hours) it reads ambient temp at startup, then climbs up to 140-160 range. I rarely get above 180 in normal driving situations, usually sticks around 160. My gauge goes out of range below 30, so on very cold mornings it gives a low temp warning until it reaches 30, letting you know it needs to warm up a but before taking off (or, at least take it easy for awhile until temps get up). I refer to the gauge before and WOTS to see that tranny temp is up to near normal operating temps.

Interesting observation: The temps increase while the car is stopped at a light or whatever. I have the FRP deep tranny pan witht he vanes, which appear to help, because once underway, air flowing over the vanes drops temps again, as much as 10 degrees.

I don't recall getting over 200, though I don't race my car. My upper range warning is set at 230 degrees.

In the spirit of full disclosure, my sending unit is in the pan, reading pan temps. No, I don't want to hear why the manifold is a better spot -- this is the location recommended by two Ford Master Techs, one of which is a transmission specialist. You will not convince me to relocate it.

[DEFYANT]

It an older thead, I recall reading that 160-180 is the optimal range. My gauge is digital, so when the car has been sitting for some time (24 hours) it reads ambient temp at startup, then climbs up to 140-160 range. I rarely get above 180 in normal driving situations, usually sticks around 160. My gauge goes out of range below 30, so on very cold mornings it gives a low temp warning until it reaches 30, letting you know it needs to warm up a but before taking off (or, at least take it easy for awhile until temps get up). I refer to the gauge before and WOTS to see that tranny temp is up to near normal operating temps.

Interesting observation: The temps increase while the car is stopped at a light or whatever. I have the FRP deep tranny pan witht he vanes, which appear to help, because once underway, air flowing over the vanes drops temps again, as much as 10 degrees.

I don't recall getting over 200, though I don't race my car. My upper range warning is set at 230 degrees.

In the spirit of full disclosure, my sending unit is in the pan, reading pan temps. No, I don't want to hear why the manifold is a better spot -- this is the location recommended by two Ford Master Techs, one of which is a transmission specialist. You will not convince me to relocate it.
Thanks for the great reply. I think the sensor location ( read all the theads and arugments about the subject) is about personal preferance. Kinda like superchargers :rolleyes: . My choice of modds is what I feel is right for me. Dont tell me if you think I'm wrong if I dont ask, and I will do the same. Thats common courtesy :)

[fastblackmerc]

Thanks for the great reply. I think the sensor location ( read all the theads and arugments about the subject) is about personal preferance. Kinda like superchargers :rolleyes: . My choice of modds is what I feel is right for me. Dont tell me if you think I'm wrong if I dont ask, and I will do the same. Thats common courtesy :)
Any of you guys running an additional tranny cooler?

[DEFYANT]

Any of you guys running an additional tranny cooler?
Some cars around here are. This is a decision I am considering now, hence the question above.

[David Morton]

Sergent Mac is right 230+ is bad if prolonged. Also, the red color of ATF is a temperature sensitive dye that breaks down and turns brown after the fluid has been too hot for too long. Checking fluid color is a good thing to do.

Location of the sensor is critical, get it at the case where the fluid exits headed for the cooler as this is coming straight from the convertor and that is when it's at it's hottest.

It's the convertor that is heating up the fluid and 98% of that heat is happening from the shearing of the fluid between pump and stator vanes, when it's converting torque into nothing more than heat, so expect it to get hottest when you're stopped and stalling at the christmas tree down at the track.

Expect temps to rise when stopped at the light, even if you're not "stalling" as we racers say, it's really stalling anyway. The torque convertor is converting the torque coming from that running engine only into heat until the input shaft starts to turn and the car moves.

Remember, nothing is "slipping" inside that transmission (it better not slip), the convertor is shearing fluid and the energy has to be turned into something, so when the car is stopped, it's being converted into heat.

[SergntMac]

I'm not in disagreement with anything posted ^ there, but wish to add a caution.

IMHO, it's not that critical where you sample tranny fluid temp, but it is more important that you DO watch the temps. Pan temps will be lower (on a scale) than temps taken directly out of the convertor, but as long as you keep an eye on temps, you're good. Just be aware of the difference when comparing with other steups. You may see 160 degrees in the pan, and 190 degrees coming out of the convertor on the same tranny, don't sweat this difference. Temps from the pan will be less active than temps from the TC, which will show spikes more often and keep the gauge busy. Just know where your "normal" is, and watch for the abnormal.