Oil in intake

[txmarauder]

I am installing my trilogy s/c and removed the intake to find what looks like oil residue in the runners and t/b, it looks gold to brown color, anyone ever notice this before. I bought the car with 4k it was a dealer demo, now it has 14k and still runs just as well as when i bought it. It is a 2003, and does not get driven much so i notice a smoke puff at cold starts when sitting for a period of a week or two. Just want to know if this is normal, the oil stick shows no loss. Just dont want to possibly hurt the new s/c, but if i need to take it to a dealer i will have to convert everything back to stock. Let me know if any of you have noticed this before. Thanks, greg.

[Bradley G]

I have not had the upper plenum off entirely I did lift it slightly to install PHP spacer,and also looking through the throttle body noticed the same as you describe.I did spray the orifice with cleaner.If you have it apart you will be able to do a thorough cleaning with any parts that are reused with your Kit.
Good luck !!!
Bradley G
This appears to be a normal condition.


I am installing my trilogy s/c and removed the intake to find what looks like oil residue in the runners and t/b, it looks gold to brown color, anyone ever notice this before. I bought the car with 4k it was a dealer demo, now it has 14k and still runs just as well as when i bought it. It is a 2003, and does not get driven much so i notice a smoke puff at cold starts when sitting for a period of a week or two. Just want to know if this is normal, the oil stick shows no loss. Just dont want to possibly hurt the new s/c, but if i need to take it to a dealer i will have to convert everything back to stock. Let me know if any of you have noticed this before. Thanks, greg.

[FordNut]

I believe it's normal also, when I had my intake replaced the original one was very dark on the inside but it appeared to be mainly from the EGR ports instead of the PCV port.

[Blackened300a]

I did my PHP intake spacer and saw the oil also, It has to do with the CrankCase Vent. It relieves the pressure by putting it into the Intake instead of having a seperate tube and a filter to Vent

[rocknrod]

I think the PCV system does that on purpose. Although venting the crankcase shouldnt have too much oil but maybe I'm wrong. Also I think I saw a thread here someplace where someone installed an air-oil separator to prvent that. Seems it will keep oil from getting onto the intercooler.

[Bradley G]

I saw that device (seperator)it seemed a bit pricey at $120.00.
I was warned the vent cap from Ford racing(as an alternative) was effective but would leave you smelling oil.
Bradley G

[txmarauder]

Thanks guys, I was just worried about it when i did a search and a number of people saying the smoke at start up was bad heads, valves, seals. I just hope it doesnt get into the i/c and blower and mess anything up. Thanks. Greg.

[rocknrod]

Here is the link:

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=15421&highlight=seperator

And another thread:
http://www.nhtoc.com/forum/showthread.php?threadid=4786&highlight=oil+seperator

[Directedby]

When I installed the PHP spacer, I noticed the same oil in gold/brown intake.

I called Dennis REinhart who told me it was completely normal.

[Logan]

Yeah, it's all good.

[metroplex]

This is not a problem for Normally aspirated engines, but it is a problem for turbocharged and supercharged engines that have intercoolers.

The oil can cake onto the intercooler and reduce heat transfer efficiency.
VW TDIs are now using $250+ Hummel-Mann ProVent Closed Crankcase Vent coalescing filters with great results. Since most of the Marauder owners have big budgets, I just thought I'd mention this.

The air compressor inline filters with polycarbonate bowls that are sold by Razor's Edge / Steeda are the poorest excuses for filters in an automotive application and here is why:

1). The bowls are not rated for impact resistance
2). The bowls are not rated for contact with fuels, ketones, and other hydrocarbons.
3). The bowls are rated for 32F - 125F operation. In the desert, ambient temperatures can reach 120F-150F. In SE Michigan winters, it can get as cold as -20F.
4). Even with the metal bowls, they are rated for 32F-150F ambient temperatures.

The people using such filters ($10-$20 units from Walmart) are just gambling with time. Unless the filter was designed for an automotive environment, do not use it. Water/fuel separators on large diesel trucks use polycarbonate bowls but they are designed to withstand the elements (usually stored on the outside of the engine compartment).

[Phil @ FLP]

On any forced induction car you are going to get some blow by and have some oil in the intake manifold. Its a normal thing with any forced induction car. As long as its not pooling oil you should be fine.

[metroplex]

On any forced induction car you are going to get some blow by and have some oil in the intake manifold. Its a normal thing with any forced induction car. As long as its not pooling oil you should be fine.

It is normal but you don't want it to happen on any forced induction car unless you enjoy oil soaked intercoolers (bad thing for forced induction cars, like the Trilogy Marauders, AED kits, etc...) it's bad because oil caked on the intercooler fins will reduce the heat transferring efficiency and lost horsepower.

Ask anyone running a turbo and you will hear many different methods of making a home-made filter. However, I have yet to see a rugged OEM-style spec filter capable of handling automotive environments for sale under $200 USD.

[FordNut]

It is normal but you don't want it to happen on any forced induction car unless you enjoy oil soaked intercoolers (bad thing for forced induction cars, like the Trilogy Marauders, AED kits, etc...) it's bad because oil caked on the intercooler fins will reduce the heat transferring efficiency and lost horsepower.

Ask anyone running a turbo and you will hear many different methods of making a home-made filter. However, I have yet to see a rugged OEM-style spec filter capable of handling automotive environments for sale under $200 USD.
Some tuners also prefer not to have oil vapors in the mixture, even if the oil comes in after the intercooler as it does with the centrifugal kits.

I recently installed a Racor PCV oil trap in preparation for a blower. It's expensive, but it is designed for the automotive use in the harsh environment of turbo diesel trucks.

[SergntMac]

Had this problem myself, and it was bad. Nasty bad, oil on garage floor bad from where the oil trickled back down the air induction pipe in my front fender and oil soaked the K&N filter, as well as the garage floor. Yuck.

Tried all the suggestions mentioned here and in the thread added here, nothing seemed to work completely. Then I bought a one-way check valve from Earls and installed it on the passenger side PCV line, just before it enters the upper intake. Cleaned out the induction path and bellows, and all is well.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6231&cat=500&page=1

I think this condition is aggravated on supercharged MM, perhaps just centrifugal designs as well. The problem went away, but you see that rubber hose I used? It later collapsed from internal sucking pressure and it's been replaced with a metal 1/2" OD pipe. That's some serious sucking which may not be a problem on a Roots design system. Keep me posted, Phil? I'd like to know more about the scope of this problem in Roots design, and high horsepower N/A cars.

[Phil @ FLP]

It is normal but you don't want it to happen on any forced induction car unless you enjoy oil soaked intercoolers (bad thing for forced induction cars, like the Trilogy Marauders, AED kits, etc...) it's bad because oil caked on the intercooler fins will reduce the heat transferring efficiency and lost horsepower.

Ask anyone running a turbo and you will hear many different methods of making a home-made filter. However, I have yet to see a rugged OEM-style spec filter capable of handling automotive environments for sale under $200 USD.I have yet to see it become a problem for any of the intercooled supercharged or turbo cars we have built at our shop and we usually turn out 4 or 5 forced induction cars a month. If its a excessive amount I could maybe see that but if a car is getting excessive oil in the intake we advise the customer we need to look into resolving it.

[QWK SVT]

Had this problem myself, and it was bad. Nasty bad, oil on garage floor bad from where the oil trickled back down the air induction pipe in my front fender and oil soaked the K&N filter, as well as the garage floor. Yuck.

Tried all the suggestions mentioned here and in the thread added here, nothing seemed to work completely. Then I bought a one-way check valve from Earls and installed it on the passenger side PCV line, just before it enters the upper intake. Cleaned out the induction path and bellows, and all is well.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6231&cat=500&page=1

I think this condition is aggravated on supercharged MM, perhaps just centrifugal designs as well. The problem went away, but you see that rubber hose I used? It later collapsed from internal sucking pressure and it's been replaced with a metal 1/2" OD pipe. That's some serious sucking which may not be a problem on a Roots design system. Keep me posted, Phil? I'd like to know more about the scope of this problem in Roots design, and high horsepower N/A cars.The oil in intakes is not a new problem. Lightning's have been dealing with it, for a while.

Here's a picture of my intercooler (from the lightning) after 12,000miles:
http://www.qwksvt.com/Lightning_Files/Blower/Dirt1.jpg

I have a Air Compressor filter on, right now (a la Razor's Edge). It seems to work - has for the last 5,000 miles, at least. I'm happy, but may look for an alternative, soon...

The ricer's have had this problem for awhile also, they have products called "Oil Catch Cans". The best one I have seen so far is made by GReddy (runs about $85). It's a billet box, with 2 fittings, one for the oil/air entering and the other for just the air to exist. The ricer's seem to have good results with this product. There is a sight glass on the GReddy Catch Can that tells when the container need empting.

Also as a side note, this unwanted oil/air mixture on alot of the import boards is blamed for detonation.

Here is a site where you can check out the catch can: http://www.ipsracing.com/engine/accessories/ (http://www.ipsracing.com/engine/accessories/)

[metroplex]

If you're churning out 4 or 5 turbocharged cars a month and do not give a rat's batoosh about the oil vapors in the intercooler, I would seriously avoid your shop... It's a big enough problem to be discussed on almost every serious automotive performance board every once in awhile.

Hot oil vapors in the intake stream even in a N/A car is not good for performance. On a forced induction car, you want to cool down the compressed air and not heat it up. 200F oil vapors going into the intercooler doesn't help.

That's why TURBOCHARGED VW TDI's are using Hummel-Mann ProVent CCV filters which are designed for this specific purpose. Turbo diesels are adopting this type of modification very quickly, as are many turbocharged 4-bangers and other forced induction vehicles.


I recently installed a Racor PCV oil trap in preparation for a blower. It's expensive, but it is designed for the automotive use in the harsh environment of turbo diesel trucks.

Do you have pics of this Racor oil trap?

[Smokie]

This subject interests me, I have a question; our intakes are exposed to oil vapors from two separate sides, the products mentioned above handle one or both sources ?????

[FordNut]

If you're churning out 4 or 5 turbocharged cars a month and do not give a rat's batoosh about the oil vapors in the intercooler, I would seriously avoid your shop... It's a big enough problem to be discussed on almost every serious automotive performance board every once in awhile.

Hot oil vapors in the intake stream even in a N/A car is not good for performance. On a forced induction car, you want to cool down the compressed air and not heat it up. 200F oil vapors going into the intercooler doesn't help.

That's why TURBOCHARGED VW TDI's are using Hummel-Mann ProVent CCV filters which are designed for this specific purpose. Turbo diesels are adopting this type of modification very quickly, as are many turbocharged 4-bangers and other forced induction vehicles.



Do you have pics of this Racor oil trap?

Here is a page that tells about them.
http://www.maesco.com/products/racor/r_ccv_intro/r_ccv_intro.html

Do a search on "racor ccv 4500" and you'll see it referenced in virtually all the diesel truck forums. It's the best there is for this application. It's kind of bulky, I mounted mine in the recess above the shock on the driver side. Pic will be in my gallery shortly, but they may not be too good. It's getting dark and my digital pics always wash out when I have to use the flash.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=6235&cat=500&page=1

Note that the flow path of the PCV system is now reversed like the Mustang. Air goes from the intake tube over to the passenger side cam cover, then thru the engine, out the driver side, into the Racor unit, then thru a PCV valve (Turbo style, positive closure under boost so the crankcase is not pressurized thru the intake, only from blowby-note that the OEM PCV valve will allow back-flow) and then into the PCV port on the upper intake manifold. Most of this will stay the same after centrifugal blower installation, only the inlet tube connection will need to be changed.

[rocknrod]

Here it is, a GREAT thread on the oil sep:
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=117483

[SergntMac]

If you're churning out 4 or 5 turbocharged cars a month and do not give a rat's batoosh about the oil vapors in the intercooler, I would seriously avoid your shop... It's a big enough problem to be discussed on almost every serious automotive performance board every once in awhile.

Well, I think it's the first time we have taken a serious look at it here. I have mentioned my problem in the past, shortly after building my engine, and no one spoke up with likewise problems, so, we're just getting to it now, and hopefully we can continue to explore this, without the editorial? Please?

As I posted earlier, my problem has been resolved, at least the leaking of oil into the induction path. May be something else going on inside the intake, but the car is running good, and the leak repaired, and I'm not seeing any blue smoke at startup. I can't help wondering if this problem is part of that problem, but I digress.

I don't know why Kenny Brown installed it this way, I suppose he was experimenting, and I can't say he continued with this after building the 1x, but he ran a long 5/8 hose from the driver's side vent, around the back of the engine, and into the air induction path elbow just BEFORE the blower, thus before the MAF as well. (BTW, I have a Vortech centrifugal, blow through MAF, and my intercooler is in the driver's fenderwell, where the OEM air box used to be)

This vent is rerouted from after the MAF in the OEM setup, to before the MAF in the S/C setup. I believe this the connection that was sucking oil from the driver's side vent, and pouring it into the blower, which later leaked down the air induction path in into the K&N filter.

Though it seems logical that the check value I added would work better on this line, it does not. By checking pressures on the passenger side vent, where the PCV valve joins the upper intake, this sucking of oil ceased, and the air path (and MAF) are staying clean.

Hope this helps, but I now realize that it's not a solution for other S/C designs, so, just adding my .02c...

[Phil @ FLP]

If you're churning out 4 or 5 turbocharged cars a month and do not give a rat's batoosh about the oil vapors in the intercooler, I would seriously avoid your shop... It's a big enough problem to be discussed on almost every serious automotive performance board every once in awhile.If its a excessive amount of oil we will address it but we have rarely had an issue with this. And on the cars that do have a problem we have installed a catch can assembly to cut down on it. We have lots of experience building forced induction cars so we know what works and when its a problem. We have built a number of 8 and 9 second turbo/supercharger cars, two 7 second cars, and more street cars than I can remember running 10s and 11s. We have a handle on forced induction. If your not interested in having us work on your car that is certainly your option.

[Directedby]

My Maruader has white smoke at idle and after seeing the oil coated intake, i thought it might be the cause.

My car is N/A.