View Full Version : What oil filter do you use/like the best?
MI2QWK4U
06-16-2005, 06:48 PM
I have always used a Motorcraft oil filter on my Fords... Anyone have a good reason I should change? I generally change my oil every 2000-2500 miles anyway. On the Marauder and Mach 1 I usually only put 4000-5000 miles on each a year. Is there any reason to upgrade and pay 10-15 bucks for a "high" performance filter, or just stick with my $5 motocraft???
rayjay
06-16-2005, 06:52 PM
IMHO, driving those few miles per year, with your short cycle change schedule, there really is no need for a pricey filter.
fastblackmerc
06-16-2005, 06:59 PM
IMHO, driving those few miles per year, with your short cycle change schedule, there really is no need for a pricey filter.
Stick with the Motorcraft filter.
jgc61sr2002
06-16-2005, 07:27 PM
I agree use the Motorcraft filter.
FordNut
06-16-2005, 07:43 PM
I use PureOne from Purolator. They are one of the "premium" grade filters and are rated close to the K&N and Mobil1 Filters at about 1/2 the price ($5 vs $10) but still a bit more expensive than Motorcraft and other "standard" grade filters.
DirtyDog
06-16-2005, 07:50 PM
I use PureOne from Purolator. They are one of the "premium" grade filters and are rated close to the K&N and Mobil1 Filters at about 1/2 the price ($5 vs $10) but still a bit more expensive than Motorcraft and other "standard" grade filters.
I use these also, nice blue paint job on them.
Donny Carlson
06-16-2005, 08:27 PM
I have always used a Motorcraft oil filter on my Fords... Anyone have a good reason I should change? I generally change my oil every 2000-2500 miles anyway. On the Marauder and Mach 1 I usually only put 4000-5000 miles on each a year. Is there any reason to upgrade and pay 10-15 bucks for a "high" performance filter, or just stick with my $5 motocraft???
I'm sold on the K&N:
I buy them for $9 each online, free shipping.
http://www.knfilters.com/images/oilfiltercutout.jpg
Drilled safety wire holes for racing
Sturdy 1" wrench nut makes removal quick and easy
<LI>Heavy-duty construction
<LI>Resin-impregnated filter media provides maximum filtering surface for contaminant removal
<LI>Anti-drainback valve (where applicable) eliminates dry starts, prevents oil from draining back into crankcase during engine shutdown
<LI>Internally lubricated gasket provides positive seal while allowing easy on and off of filter
Rolled threads provide extra protection against stripping
High-Flow Rate
Our oil filters use resin impregnated cellulose filter media. This allows for higher flow rates while providing outstanding filtration. High filter flow rates are important in racing vehicles where heavier grade oil is used and the oil is pumped much faster than in a standard vehicle. When the engine is circulating oil at high GPM rates, the high-flow oil filter helps reduce the loss of pressure through the filtering process.
Compatible with the Latest in Synthetic Engine Oils
Our oil filters are ideal for high-end synthetic motor oil. Synthetic motor oil is said to offer improved flow performance at cold temperatures while providing superior protection against thermal degradation.
Warranty
Our oil filters are covered by a limited warranty to be free from defects in materials and workmanship when installed and replaced using engine and equipment manufacturers recommended service intervals.
TECH TALK
Our Performance Gold Oil Filters use a cellulose media bound by phenolic resin surrounding a metal inner core that provides structural strength to reduce the risk of filter collapse. The resin is the "glue" that holds the media fibers together and at the same time keeps "pores" open by keeping the fibers apart. The resin is cured to full strength during the element manufacturing process. Phenolic resin systems are an excellent choice for the high temperature demands of oil filters. Our filter includes an anti-drainback valve, when applicable, that prevents oil from draining back into the crankcase during engine shutdown. The anti-drainback valve is useful in situations where the filter is mounted horizontally which could allow backflow. We use rolled threads to help prevent stripping during installation or removal and an internally lubricated gasket provides a positive seal even after the filter has been removed and reinstalled
'03BlkMM
06-16-2005, 09:48 PM
I also like the Purolator Pure One. I've been using them for years...
Fourth Horseman
06-16-2005, 10:36 PM
On some of those on-line oil filter reviews I've read that the MotorCraft filter comes in nearly dead even with the top end filters. Also, I don't know what this means exactly, but when I was running the Mobil 1 filter I'd hear more valve train noise immediately after cold start up than I do with the MotorCraft filter. It went away almost immediately after starting, of course, as the engine built oil pressure, but it was just loud enough and for just long enough to scare me a bit. I switched back to the MotorCraft filter and it's been smooth sailing since.
texasvic
06-16-2005, 10:55 PM
Motorcraft filters are made by Purolator.
MENINBLK
06-16-2005, 11:05 PM
I use the K&N HP-2010 Oil Filter since it has a much higher
VOLUME FLOW RATE than all of the other filters.
What does this mean to you ???
It means that when you push the accelerator to WOT,
your oil is getting to where it needs to get,
with the least amount of restrictions,
and the least amount of pressure loss.
As long as your oil can flow where it needs to be,
you can rest assured that your engine will live a healthy life.
These filters are also compatible with Synthetic Motor Oil, which I also use.
Svashtar
06-18-2005, 09:04 AM
My first oil change I used the Motorcraft, but this last time I used the Fram, only because it is a pain to get a atandard oil filter wrench in there, and I liked the idea of being able to tighten it better by hand because of the black grippy stuff they put on the end of their filter.
But I might try the K&N next time. With that 1" fitting on the end I should be able to get a stubby wrench in there no problem, and actually have more room as I won't have to put my hand all the way down there.
Also, I'm not sure how it will work out, but this last time I ground down the end of the drain plug to make it more flat, and then JB Welded a 1/4" rare earth magnet (Lee Valley Tools) to the end. I let it sit for 24 hrs. just in case. I know you can buy plugs with little magnets in them, but the ones I have seen don't have the secondary seal on the outside that the Ford plugs do, and the magnets are much smaller. These magnets are phenomenally strong. If you have ever torn apart an old hard drive to scavenge the magnets, then you know what I mean. We'll see if it pulls anything out the next time I change the oil.
Thanks for the info.
Norm
Svashtar
06-18-2005, 09:21 AM
I'm sold on the K&N:
I buy them for $9 each online, free shipping.
Donny, can you tell me where? The place I buy at wants $10.95 + $5.95 S&H.
Thanks!
Norm
Petrograde
06-18-2005, 09:35 AM
....Also, I'm not sure how it will work out, but this last time I ground down the end of the drain plug to make it more flat, and then JB Welded a 1/4" rare earth magnet (Lee Valley Tools) to the end. I let it sit for 24 hrs. just in case. I know you can buy plugs with little magnets in them, but the ones I have seen don't have the secondary seal on the outside that the Ford plugs do, and the magnets are much smaller. These magnets are phenomenally strong. If you have ever torn apart an old hard drive to scavenge the magnets, then you know what I mean. We'll see if it pulls anything out the next time I change the oil......
Not a bad idea, just remember, it'll only catch steel fragments,... not aluminum.
Mikeenh
06-18-2005, 10:54 AM
Here's some interesting reading on oil filters...
Oil Filters (http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html)
RoyLPita
06-18-2005, 11:18 AM
I use Motorcraft from work.
Donny Carlson
06-18-2005, 05:37 PM
Donny, can you tell me where? The place I buy at wants $10.95 + $5.95 S&H.
Thanks!
Norm
Out of respect for vendor rules, anyone interested in my source should send me a PM.
In the spirit of full disclosure, my cost was 9.87 each, free shipping. There is a special that ends the end of July that will drop the cost below 9.00 each.
TheDealer
06-18-2005, 06:11 PM
Fram is the WORST oil filter on the market. As for useing a cheap filter because you change it regularly, I say BS. It only takes a second for something to get through the filter. Don't be so cheap, a good filter is cheaper than an engine. The Motorcraft filter is a Pulolator PurOne in a different look.
RF Overlord
06-18-2005, 07:11 PM
^^^what TheDealer said^^^
Cobra25
06-18-2005, 08:02 PM
I use only the Amsoil Oil Filter's.
shannon corkill
06-18-2005, 08:38 PM
I run K& N filters on all my cars, no complaints and easy to change the oil filter..some things are worth paying extra
rayjay
06-19-2005, 06:31 AM
Fram is the WORST oil filter on the market. As for useing a cheap filter because you change it regularly, I say BS. It only takes a second for something to get through the filter. Don't be so cheap, a good filter is cheaper than an engine. The Motorcraft filter is a Pulolator PurOne in a different look.
When I first posted, my intent was to endorse the MotorCraft filter over the more exspensive options. My Dad always used them and he was a Tech for 50 years.
Mike Poore
06-20-2005, 07:18 AM
I have always used a Motorcraft ...
Nothing wrong with Motorcraft; but we like Amsoil products. There are websites devoted to the subject, mostly they tell which ones to avoid, such as Fram, for instance. :twocents:
Motorcraft! Be careful using the Fram with the coating. I used one on my wife's car, and that black crap came off all over the floor as I tried to remove the filter.
tbore007
06-20-2005, 11:16 AM
Nothing wrong with Motorcraft; but we like Amsoil products. There are websites devoted to the subject, mostly they tell which ones to avoid, such as Fram, for instance. :twocents:
? why are fram filters so bad
RF Overlord
06-20-2005, 11:26 AM
FRAM's quality has gone way downhill in the last 10 years, mostly due to their being acquired multiple times. FRAM is now owned by Honeywell Consumer Products. The internal construction is poor, and there are filters on the market for the same money that are MUCH better. They have an excellent marketing department that keeps their name up in front of the public, mostly by paying huge incentives to parts houses to give them greater shelf space than other brands.
For the same money, the Motorcraft is a far superior filter, as are Mobil 1, AMSOIL, K&N or WIX/NAPA Gold (same thing), but they cost a little more.
For more info than you will EVER want, check out BOBISTHEOILGUY (http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=forum;f=6). ..
Svashtar
06-24-2005, 09:22 AM
Fram is the WORST oil filter on the market. As for useing a cheap filter because you change it regularly, I say BS. It only takes a second for something to get through the filter. Don't be so cheap, a good filter is cheaper than an engine. The Motorcraft filter is a Pulolator PurOne in a different look.
Well, you don't know unless you ask! Thanks for setting me straight. BTW, the Fram I bought was not particularly cheap. About the same cost as the Motorcraft as I recall. I am changing mine today.
Norm
Rider90
06-24-2005, 09:36 AM
I'm a NAPA Gold Filter guy :D
Shaft333
06-24-2005, 11:06 AM
Motorcraft.
Namely because I plan on letting the dealer work on this car. I'll save most of my wrenching for the motorbike.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2025 vBulletin Solutions Inc. All rights reserved.