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BigMerc
06-22-2005, 04:26 PM
Lidio,
How is your Nitrous set up? is it on under full throttle? or do you have a manual switch, how do you apply it?

CRUZTAKER
06-22-2005, 08:02 PM
I am sure Lidio will answer....

He did mine with an arming switch on the console. As long as my SCT chip is in one of the two available NOS settings, I can arm it at any time, and it jets when the accelerator pedal is pushed to a certain point. IE: WOT.

Hope this helps. :)

Lidio
06-22-2005, 08:49 PM
Lidio,
How is your Nitrous set up? is it on under full throttle? or do you have a manual switch, how do you apply it?


Normally I set them up with a WOT switch and also make them so that when the NOS is armed it switches the chip for you into a NOS mode which will pull some timming, change shift points if needed and trim the A/F both with dry or wet NOS kits.


Thanks

Rider90
06-22-2005, 09:46 PM
I know a few people with NOS on their LS1's and they suggest not injecting NOS until after 3000 RPM for an efficient burn.

Idears?

DEFYANT
06-22-2005, 09:55 PM
Hmmmmm



:bop: (stop thinking like that, you (I) should know better, that is the last thing we need) :shake:

Lidio
06-24-2005, 07:21 PM
I know a few people with NOS on their LS1's and they suggest not injecting NOS until after 3000 RPM for an efficient burn.

Idears?



Small and even large amounts of NOS can be injected at almost any rpm. This is especially true and very doable with what is known as “Dry-NOS” shot. Nitrous is a combustion enhancer by nature, so when mixed with the rest of what ends up in the chamber you get a very, very efficient burn.

Dry kits inject only the NOS gas into the intake and the required additional fuel is added through the injectors either through programming like how I do it if the injectors and fuel system will keep up, or by raising the fuel pressure with a small and calibrated amount of the NOS gas pressure acting against the fuel pressure regulator’s diaphragm thus raising the pressure making the existing/stock (typically not big enough) injectors flow more and act bigger. Dry kits now days are very popular and are known for being able to get turned on earlier in the revs with little to virtually no risk of a back-fire. The reason “wet” NOS kits tend to be less reliable or back-fire some times when hit to low… is that the NOS gas is under much more pressure (900psi typically) and in many applications with wet kits if you hit it to early, the NOS will get into the chamber’s first while the fuel is heavier and cant keep up and will puddle. Because the NOS got to the chamber first, some time this will result in a instantly lean condition leading to a back fire in the intake that then proceeds to ignite the puddled fuel, causing some times huge manifold destroying explosions.

WET kits are still doing well these days and with RPM activated switches that also don’t let the NOS flow until WOT… Wet kits are generally pretty good. But a well done dry kit can and will always be able to be hit literally right off idle at WOT with small kits like 80-125hp’s and even more. When I install a DRY NOS kit on any thing especially automatic cars, I encourage the driver to arm it and put the pedal down to enable the NOS any time they want under any conditions. This is the bueaty of the automatics, with a little bit of a stall converter, be it a stock or aftermarket stall, and the selector in drive, it will never lug it down enough to be a problem for the most part. Where as stick shift guys could potentially go WOT in a high gear at a very low rpm and really lug things down and could lead to a problem. But for the most part, DRY kits up to about 125hp in sticks and auto’s have worked out great at my shop.



Thanks

MarauderMarc
07-09-2005, 10:42 PM
I have been seriously considering a nos setup. 80-100 idealy. Hvae been looking at Nos, ZEX, Edelbrock......which one is the best performer? My question is this, if I understand Lidio right, I could have 100 shot of Nos, just arm it and when I see the third yellow light I give it WOT and Im set? Is there an "ideal time" frame that you tend to want to stick to? Have also heard alot of mixed opinions stating that NOS will blow your engine up, decrease longevity, ect., is this true? One other thing, how much does an install for a dry kit normally run (ballpark)? Your input would be helpful. Marc

Lidio
07-10-2005, 06:31 AM
I have been seriously considering a nos setup. 80-100 idealy. Hvae been looking at Nos, ZEX, Edelbrock......which one is the best performer? My question is this, if I understand Lidio right, I could have 100 shot of Nos, just arm it and when I see the third yellow light I give it WOT and Im set? Is there an "ideal time" frame that you tend to want to stick to? Have also heard alot of mixed opinions stating that NOS will blow your engine up, decrease longevity, ect., is this true? One other thing, how much does an install for a dry kit normally run (ballpark)? Your input would be helpful. Marc


When we install your average NOS kit these days, because of how properly we mount, wire and just plain organize the install.... we usually get any where from $500 to $700 for the full install including a purge if needed. Bottle warmers and other options can make it cost more to install. Plus dyno time and tuning will add to the install as well.

The key thing we do with our dry NOS installs is that we make the computer chip a "switch chip" which will go into an alternate mode when you arm the NOS system. This alternate/NOS mode I do will change fuel, spark and even shift points strictly for the NOS mode. This has made our Dry NOS set ups very different and more reliable then many others ways of doing it, including the manufactures own kits.

I believe that 100-125 NOS hits do not shorten an average V-8's life at all if its tuned and octane’d correctly.

As I’ve stated earlier…. You can hit our dry installs as early as you want for the most part, traction permitting.


Thanks