A recent problem:

[BillyGman]

Please help......

Within the past week, my car has begun stalling. It has become progressively more frequent during the last few days (it happened twice yesterday), and I hate the thought of having to take it to the dealer!!! I usually give the dealer business for 6,000 mile interval transmission flush & fills, and for the roadforce wheel balance too, and that's enough as far as I'm concerned.But even if I end up taking it to the dealer, it would still be great if I can get a pretty good idea as to what this is, because the information that I give them might prevent a misdiagnosis, and i really want to avoid them touching anything on my car that they don't need to be messing with. I don't trust them at all!!

The engine cuts out usually only when it's fully warmed up, and only when it's either idling, or while I'm traveling at a very slow speed (such as 5 MPH). Very often, the engine RPM's begin to surge up and down right before it stalls, abd with each surge the RPM's drop lower. And this only happens while the car is in gear (never while in park). The sparkplugs, air cleaner, and fuel filter, all have only 6,000 miles on them, so I don't think it can be any of those things.

[Slowpoke]

I could be completely wrong but this happened to me 15 years ago with a Lamborghini Jalpa.... turned out to be a bad fuel filter... a VERY expensive fuel filter!

[BillyGman]

I could be completely wrong but this happened to me 15 years ago with a Lamborghini Jalpa.... turned out to be a bad fuel filter... a VERY expensive fuel filter! I thought about it being the fuel filter also, but I changed it earlier this year, and it hasn't started doing this until now. And like I've said, the fuel filter only has about 6,000 miles on it. :confused: Maybe I should just try changing it again anyway.

[cyclone03]

Mas Airflow sensor dirty?

[BillyGman]

Mas Airflow sensor dirty?I thought of that too, but since I've never messed with that before, I figured that I'd ask you guys about this. I'll definately consider that. I don't know much about those things. If it's dirty, will that be noticeable just by visual observation after removing it? And I take it that those things simply slide right out, correct? One more question, (sorry) if it neds to be replaced, do you know how much they cost?

BTW, I forgot to mention, that what makes this symptom kinda tough for me to diagnose, is that the engine runs great during any degree of accelearion at all. from off idle, to redline, and part throttle as well as WOT, it runs great, with the same excellent power it's always had.:confused:

[MikesMerc]

PM or give Lidio a call. He might be able to shed some light.

[Dennis Reinhart]

Please help......

Within the past week, my car has begun stalling. It has become progressively more frequent during the last few days (it happened twice yesterday), and I hate the thought of having to take it to the dealer!!! I usually give the dealer business for 6,000 mile interval transmission flush & fills, and for the roadforce wheel balance too, and that's enough as far as I'm concerned.But even if I end up taking it to the dealer, it would still be great if I can get a pretty good idea as to what this is, because the information that I give them might prevent a misdiagnosis, and i really want to avoid them touching anything on my car that they don't need to be messing with. I don't trust them at all!!

The engine cuts out usually only when it's fully warmed up, and only when it's either idling, or while I'm traveling at a very slow speed (such as 5 MPH). Very often, the engine RPM's begin to surge up and down right before it stalls, abd with each surge the RPM's drop lower. And this only happens while the car is in gear (never while in park). The sparkplugs, air cleaner, and fuel filter, all have only 6,000 miles on them, so I don't think it can be any of those things.

I would check the Maf and Fuel Preasure thats the beauty of the X cal 2 you can data log every thing

[torinodan]

I had the exact same problem when I ummmm... left my MAF unhooked one time. Use the Xcal2 like DR said to see whats going on if you have one. Any check engine lights?

[Fast4Door]

If you only have the problem when the throttle is closed (foot off pedal), it could be the idle air control valve.

They can sometimes get a little "sticky" inside. Unfortunately, they can not be cleaned.

HTH

[RoyLPita]

If you only have the problem when the throttle is closed (foot off pedal), it could be the idle air control valve.

They can sometimes get a little "sticky" inside. Unfortunately, they can not be cleaned.

HTH

What he said^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^.

[rocknrod]

I....forgot to mention, that what makes this symptom kinda tough for me to diagnose, is that the engine runs great during any degree of accelearion at all. from off idle, to redline, and part throttle as well as WOT, it runs great, with the same excellent power it's always had.:confused:Sounds like your idle mixture screw.........:D
What, Wrong Century ?

[RF Overlord]

^^^what RoyL and Fast4Door said^^^

...and you have a PM.

[grampaws]

Clean the throttlebodyand the manifold..
The Idle air control is stickingTry spraying
some TB cleaner into the TBody
with the engine revving just of idle...
You aren't supposed to clean IAT's but it does
work..if the vehicles sits for long periods it can
cause them to seize up...
Then dennis's suggestion would be next...fuel pressure or MAF

[the_pack_rat]

Sounds like your idle mixture screw.........:D You have no idea what your talking about ...

It's clearly a choke pull off or his point gap is out of adjustment.








































:P

[Marauderjack]

Is the idle air valve the gismo you have to remove to get to the bottom screw on the TPS???

If so mine was filthy and I cleaned it with the same cleaner I use on the throttle butterflies??? :confused:

I remember having to replace the idle air valve on a CV that was idling erratically and stalling...maybe that is it "BG"?? ;)

Sure would hate to see a dealer's tech screwing with your S/C.....especially taking it for a lunch time cruise!!!!!

Good Luck!!

Marauderjack :D

[grampaws]

Usually mounted on the side of the Throttle body..above the

drivers side rocker cover..beside the black TPS sensor
two 8mm-5/16 bolts to remove it and check if it or the ports
are contaminated...easy to replace if faulty...
The same stuff as for the butterflies...TB or Carb cleaner
but it should say O2 sensor safe on the can...
change fuel filters at the recommended Service intervals
they rarely foul up unless your using bad gas or left the
gas cap of going through he car wash..

[wchain]

Check the IAC.

[WolfeBros]

I concur with the three suggestions. IAC, fuel filter or MAF.
All good places to start. What kind of air filter are you running? Wondering if the MAF got oil on it. I would also look for a vacuum leak.

Let us know what you find and good luck Billy.

[Marauderjack]

IAC="Idle Air Valve"....."Idle Air Controller"???? :confused:

Marauderjack :o

[DEFYANT]

IAC="Idle Air Valve"....."Idle Air Controler"???? :confused:

Marauderjack :oHere is pic:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y193/Defyant/IAC.png

I had a similar problem w/ this on my 02 CVPI w/ about 50K miles

[grampaws]

Idle air control---same thing however you say it the thingy defyant
pointed out...

IAC="Idle Air Valve"....."Idle Air Controler"???? :confused:

Marauderjack :o

[BillyGman]

Okay, you guys have given me some great feedback here. That's just what I needed, because as "RocknRod" indicated, these computer controlled rigs are so complicated, it can get downright pathetic!! BTW, I'm not getting any light on the dash. And unfortunately, I don't have any handheld tuner of any kind. It's really becoming unbearable. The car never sits for any length of time since I use it every day for work. Today, within a 15 minute drive to work, it cut out on me once, and almost did another two times while costing through the workplace parking lot. I've noticed that the idle is getting pretty rough too once it gets warmed up. I would think that if the MAF was disconnected, that it wouldn't run right ever, at any RPM. And BTW, I have the paper type air cleaner, so no oil should be on the MAF.


So I guess it must be a vacume leak somewhere, or the IAC. Thanks very much, because atleast I know where to begin looking. Boy do I hate vacume leaks. I'll check the tightness of the blower and intake manifold bolts too. And Defyant, thanks very much for that PIC!!!! :up:

[TooManyFords]

I have been experiencing this problem too as of late and I am thinking it's my fuel pressure running too high (80-90psi all the time). After reading this thread I went out and pulled the IAC off and cleaned it good with carb cleaner (Valvoline Synthetic) and can move the little piston thingie (technical term alert!).

Just how easy and much should it move in the bore?

Even cleaned, can it still be sticky?

I tightened all my S/C tubes, cleaned my MAF and then took starting fluid and sprayed all the joints (at idle) to make sure there were no vacuum leaks and then took it for a test drive.

I was able to duplicate the symptoms after it warmed up. But then on the way back home, it suddenly started acting like normal, but went back to it's broken ways after a few more minutes.

The Fuel pressure problem is being addressed now, but it does it when I pull the chip out of the PCM so this tells me I am dealing with something other than fuel pressure being too high with the chip in. What is the diagnostic procedure to tell if the IAC is at fault? Just buy a new one and "try it"? (I hate this method:mad2: )

Thanks for starting this thread Billy.

Huzzah

john

[nexstar7]

Please help......

Within the past week, my car has begun stalling. It has become progressively more frequent during the last few days (it happened twice yesterday), and I hate the thought of having to take it to the dealer!!! I usually give the dealer business for 6,000 mile interval transmission flush & fills, and for the roadforce wheel balance too, and that's enough as far as I'm concerned.But even if I end up taking it to the dealer, it would still be great if I can get a pretty good idea as to what this is, because the information that I give them might prevent a misdiagnosis, and i really want to avoid them touching anything on my car that they don't need to be messing with. I don't trust them at all!!

The engine cuts out usually only when it's fully warmed up, and only when it's either idling, or while I'm traveling at a very slow speed (such as 5 MPH). Very often, the engine RPM's begin to surge up and down right before it stalls, abd with each surge the RPM's drop lower. And this only happens while the car is in gear (never while in park). The sparkplugs, air cleaner, and fuel filter, all have only 6,000 miles on them, so I don't think it can be any of those things.

i had something like that happened to me last week. i ordered the throttle body position sensor & while your at it replace the idle air control. there not that expensive. mine use to surge at 60 mph. i replace those and all is good now. i wouldnt take it to the dealer unless you have a warranty. about $83 in parts. easy to do.

[grampaws]

Ford checks the IAC with their computer operating the

IAC and watching for the changes in RPM...Hard to duplicate...
replacement is probably the cheapest and easiest option...
I have been aware of similar problems with fuel pump failures
once the pump heats up it starts to act up and occasionally
cut out...
The last thing to check would be he EGR but normally this would set
a code..
check IAC
check vaccum leaks
check fuel pressure regulator and pump
check MAF
check Plugs if car is running a little rich could be fowled
(black)hotter plugs might be nescessary ..I have had instances
after installing so called pre gapped plugs has caused a stumble at idle
and a hesitation under acceleration..where changing the plug gap has
improved the running of the engine(usually smaller gap)
last EGR

[txmarauder]

The iac only works when the car is in closed loop operation by the ecm, so if your condition only happens after the car warms up then that is probably the problem. The iac valve is a plunger valve that acts like the throttle plate as in it lets more or less air into the motor only at idle. You can clean it with o2 safe solvent by taking it off the car a flushing it with injection cleaner or something like. You may just need to adjust it also. If you have a scan tool that can monitor you sensors, you can adjust it by a screw on the t/b that is like what we would call in the carb days your rpm screw to turn up the idle. You want your reading to be around 10-40 with the engine warmed up and in closed loop, 20-30 is perfect. you turn the screw into the throttle plate to increase and away from the throttle plate to decrease. HTH:)

[TooManyFords]

I think I'll just have Ray order me the parts I need. I'll start with the IAC and work my way through this. I suppose that it could still be sticking even after spraying it with carb cleaner and it "Sucks" as Billy says.

I'll let everyone know how it goes.

John

[Warpath]

I got some stalling too ever since I installed the SC on my Cobra. I heard others having success with cleaning the IAC. I tried it and FUBARed something because it would idle like poop. I bought a new one ($70 I think!) and it still stalled on occasion (only with the clutch disengaged). I asked around and I was told that it could be fixed with ECU programming. I wasn't told how. I've been meaning to take it to Lidio to have him take a look. No free time lately. :(

[TooManyFords]

WOOT!

Before ordering the part I thought I would try the heavy-duty cleaning of the IAC. Before pulling it I tested the TBS to make sure I was getting .99 volts and I did. I then pulled the IAC again and first soaked it in Brake Clean for about 5 minutes and moved the plunger back and forth with a small flat-blade screwdriver. Then I sprayed it down with Throttle Body Cleaner again moving the piston back and forth. I also sprayed out the black soot from the tubes on the upper intake. Dried it out and bolted it back up.
Amazing!

It now idles! I pulled the chip so I was running on the factory tune and that too idles. Note to self: Clean the IAC every 20,000 miles to save on a $300 "WTF is wrong trip to the dealer" problem!

Billy, try this and your problem might just cost $5 for the cleaner and a few minutes of your time.

Dennis is helping me with the SCT tune until I get to a Dyno. That will fix the 90PSI fuel pressure error in my current chip. I just can't wait to start reading up on that SCT Pro Racer package.

Huzzah!

John

[ts-pa]

I had similar idle problems when I purchased my car (11,800miles on it). The dealer replaced the "Idle Air Control Valve". Fixed instantly!

[BillyGman]

Thanks John. I haven't even had the chance to mess around with it yet, but this is really coming to a head now, because it stalled on me three times just yesterday!! How embarassing!!! In the 21,000 supercharged miles that I have on this car, I've never had any problem with how it idled, nor with it stalling until the last 300 miles or so. Therefore, I don't think that this problem with my car has anything to do with the fact that it's supercharged.


I bet it is the IAC valve on my car too, because twice yesterday, the car was idling just fine, and within a split second the engine RPM's just went right to zero, and it stalled, as if a plunger on a valve just got stuck. So that's going to be the first thing that I'll focus on. While I'm at it, I'll also take a quick look at all the vacume line connections atleast to make sure none of them became detached. And I'll also check those blower/manifold bolts for tightness. I'll let everyone know what it turns out to be.

[TooManyFords]

I may just buy a spare one of them and throw it in my toolbox for long road trips. I watched the local dealership look the part up on the computer, is read: Cost $33.65 and while I was looking right at the screen the guy says, "That will run you about $77 and I'll have to order it." Man, I didn't realize that it was over 100% mark-up across the counter!.

Mine pretty much was noticeable over about 2 months but not to the point it would stall, just had the wild rpm swings. Then in just a couple days it called it quits and ran like crap and kept dying. I'd hate to see it go bad when I'm out on a long cruise out of state on a weekend. Nope. A $35 part that is this critical is going in the trunk!

Keep us posted on how you fair with yours, Billy.

Huzzah!

John

[Tallboy]

Hey Billy, just for kicks-take the chip out, clean the chip and the board on the computer and re-install it. It just might be the problem and can't hurt. Also, a guy on the board here with a screen name of "The Punisher" is a tech at the Ford dealership down the road you live on. He drives a MM. Maybe he can help?

[martyo]

Fords IAC sucks. It always has.

[wchain]

Fords IAC sucks. It always has.
Yup. Especially in Ford Explorers, I sold MANY to Progressive.

Billy, you can try to clean it, but replacing is less work sometimes. BTW, if you go to a parts house and buy the Borg Warner brand (usually 15-20% cheaper), it has a Ford Part number on it and looks, feels, works, and tastes just like the Motorcraft part.

[BillyGman]

Yup. Especially in Ford Explorers, I sold MANY to Progressive.

Billy, you can try to clean it, but replacing is less work sometimes. BTW, if you go to a parts house and buy the Borg Warner brand (usually 15-20% cheaper), it has a Ford Part number on it and looks, feels, works, and tastes just like the Motorcraft part.Yeah Wes, even though John has successfuly cleaned the one on his car, my thinking is, that for $67 (the price I was quoted from the dealer) I'm just going to order a new one, and install it this weekend, and I might even get the throttle body sensor too while I'm at it. But as far as getting the part from an autoparts store, I hadn't even considered that, because I just assumed that this part is one of those delar only items. So you have my curiosity now.

Since you Marty has indicated that there's been alot of problems with Ford IAC valves(thanks Marty), do you think that the Borg Warner one in addition to being cheaper, is also neccessarily any better?

[Marauderjack]

Let's have a part number for the Ford IAC and the BW replacement....I'm gonna try another one!!!

Are they the same for the MM and CV's since say 2000???

Thanks,
Marauderjack :rolleyes:

[mtnh]

My car had this early on; dealer replaced the IAC and it still happened. Lidio suggested checking the throttle position sensor adjustment, I never got to that, but it completely stopped after I loaded an SCT tune into the PCM.

I think that tallboy is on the right track -- check your chip connections. That is, if you want to avoid the displeasure resulting from buying parts and throwing them at the problem until the problem goes away.

Try disconnecting the IAC to see what happens. If the idle does not change, then why would a bad or intermittent IAC make the engine stall? The key here is that the engine seems to be loading up just before stalling. It sounds like injector confusion rather than bypass air problems to me.

[pantheroc]

I may be full of it, but here's an armchair mechanic suggestion from experience with my wifes 90 Camaro which seemed to run great until fully warmed up, then idled like cr*p. It would run rough at a stop light and almost stall. When gassing it, it seemed to run fine above idle.
I trouble shot everything for weeks, then found one fuel injector coil at half the resistance of the others.
So if you exhausted all other "inexpensive" means give them a checkout.

[usafsniper]

Have a friend who's stationed with me have the exact same thing happen to his Lincoln Town Car a month ago. Turned out to be the IAT sensor.

[wchain]

Yeah Wes, even though John has successfuly cleaned the one on his car, my thinking is, that for $67 (the price I was quoted from the dealer) I'm just going to order a new one, and install it this weekend, and I might even get the throttle body sensor too while I'm at it. But as far as getting the part from an autoparts store, I hadn't even considered that, because I just assumed that this part is one of those delar only items. So you have my curiosity now.

Since you Marty has indicated that there's been alot of problems with Ford IAC valves(thanks Marty), do you think that the Borg Warner one in addition to being cheaper, is also neccessarily any better?
Well its just a motorcraft part in a Borg Warner box, but, instead of having a 1 year warranty on it from Ford, this one has a LIFE TIME warranty, at least the ones I buy are.

[BillyGman]

I called two part stores and both of them told me that they do NOT even list an IAC valve from Borg Warner for the Marauder. They only list a Motorcraft one, so I ordered it. Same price as the dealer quoted me though. I won't have it until the weekend, so it looks like that's when I'll be working at fixing this problem.I'll try the chip thing too although I don't know whjy it should be that. but when it comes to this kind of stuff, who knows? One thing that's really wierd, is that the engine has much more of a tendency to stall when I'm coasting very slowly down a hill (about 5 MPH). And that baffles me completely. :confused:

[BillyGman]

UPDATE:

I fixed my Marauder. :) Just like on John's car (aka "TooManyFords"), it was that pesky Idle Air Control valve ("IAC"). I stopped at the parts store before work yesterday afternoon to pick up the part, and I replaced it in my workplace parking lot in about 4 minutes before going into work. Piece of cake. It only takes a ratchet. Two bolts, and the disconnection & reconnection of an electrical plug, and the job is done.

The worst part of the whole thing was spending the $67 for the part, and having to wait one day for it to come in. But it could've been much worse, so that isn't bad at all. No more stalling. And I owe it all to you guys who posted in this thread as well as to Carfixer who replied to the PM that I sent him. Thankyou!!!! :bows:

It was so nice not having to bring my car to the dealer and have somebody who I don't even know go underneath the MM's hood. I hate the feeling of knowing that someone is screwing around with my car!!! Below is another pic of this "IAC" valve that we've been talking about for you guys who haven't had to deal with this problem yet. ;)

[DEFYANT]

Glad to have helped you.

[HwyCruiser]

Billy and John,

Glad to hear both you guys are idling fine again. Also good that this one was a relatively easy fix.

[BillyGman]

I'm glad too guys. It was becoming a hassle. The other day, I had to drive with two feet just to keep the engine running while coasting through my workplace parking lot!!!! And the day before that on the way to work, I got into a race with some ricer who works where I do, and I beat him real bad, and after I mellowed out, and let him catch up to me again, I gave him the "cactus" salute holding my arms out with my hands faced up to the sky as if to say to the guy.."What happened? No engine in your car? And one mile down the street when we both pulled into the workplace parking lot, (him being right behind me) I had to stop to show the guard my badge, and my car stalls!!! How embarrased I was to have to start it up again with him probably laughing (I didn't have the heart to look back in my rearview)!!!! :mad2: But no more. :D

[Marauderjack]

Billy....

I asked for a part number several posts back but I must be invisible??? :confused:

Would you kindly post the part number you bought?? :o

Thanks!!

Marauderjack :rolleyes:

[RoyLPita]

Glad to hear that your beast is up and running right.

[cyclopsram]

My 99 CV PI developed a stalling problem....and hard starting. I had a K and N filter and suspected the MAF was dirty... Cleaned it with spray electronic cleaner... same problem... Then asked my local Ford Tech.. he said probably the Idle air valve.. I went home and took it out... Only one electrical connector and two screws... on the bench it looked filthy in the air passage so I used a rust buster solvent and filled the chamber... slow drip thru...repeated 3 or 4 times and the passage opened right up..so could blow thru it... Then cleaned with carb cleaner to get rid of the oily residue.. It is a computer controlled stepping motor with a spring return...sticks like the old accelerator pump on some of the Ball and Ball Carbs used on old Dodge Six engines of the 60s. Now, it works like stink and I can detect the enhanced idle speed of the PI and the up and down speed with the AC clutch off and on and the Dashpot like action after a cold start... Just like new and saved the $200. Maybe Marauder 4 cam engines have the same setup and the same remedy... RAM :)

[Smokie]

Billy....

I asked for a part number several posts back but I must be invisible??? :confused:

Would you kindly post the part number you bought?? :o

Thanks!!

Marauderjack :rolleyes:Here you go partner:IAC (http://www.rockauto.com/ref/Motorcraft/Detail.html?cx-1781.gif) Here is where you go for part numbers and prices:http://www.rockauto.com/

Go to Mercury Marauder and in to Emissions section.

PS: The source is for reference, I recommend buying your Motorcraft parts from our friend Ray.:)

[TooManyFords]

Since we are bargain shopping, OEHQ.COM has this for $39.07 and ships same-day. Ordered one myself!

Huzzah!

John

[WolfeBros]

Since we are bargain shopping, OEHQ.COM has this for $39.07 and ships same-day. Ordered one myself!

Huzzah!

John

Good 411 John. At that price we all should keep one in the glovebox. :beer:

Glad your up and running Billy. :2thumbs:

[Smokie]

Since we are bargain shopping, OEHQ.COM has this for $39.07 and ships same-day. Ordered one myself!

Huzzah!

John
Yeap, they listed under Fuel Injection, Sub Idle air controls.:)

[BillyGman]

Billy....

I asked for a part number several posts back but I must be invisible??? :confused:

Would you kindly post the part number you bought?? :o

Thanks!!

Marauderjack :rolleyes:Sorry Jack. But I didn't notice what the part# was. I simply called the auto parts store, told them I needed the Idle Air Control valve for an 03 Mercury Marauder, and I ordered it.

[gpfarrell]

It was becoming a hassle... my car stalls!!! How embarrased I was to have to start it up again with him probably laughing (I didn't have the heart to look back in my rearview)!!!! :mad2: But no more. :D

That's not embarrassing... that's a badge of hot rod courage! They can't have perfect manners or anybody could drive one... ricer driver was probably impressed that you're car was so over the top it was hard to keep lit at a low simmer! Anyhow, glad to hear its all better with only 4 minutes of labor!

[BillyGman]

That's not embarrassing... that's a badge of hot rod courage! They can't have perfect manners or anybody could drive one... Well I'm used to my car having perfect manners all year round, even during the daily commute. This past week was an exception to that rule due to the problem with the Idle Air Control valve, but now that's all taken care of thanks to my fellow Marauder owners here on this board for giving me the info that I needed.

[Marauderjack]

Well..........................

I found out WHAT NOT TO DO with the IAC!!!! :argue:

DO NOT LUBE IT AT ALL!!! :mad2:

I cleaned mine with tuner cleaner and blew it dry....added one small drop of synthetic oil on the plunger shaft and BOY DID IT RUN BAD!!! :confused: Bucking, bouncing, jerking and a very erratic idle...almost stalled!! :bigcry:

I have a new IAC coming today so I thought I'd try this......BAD IDEA but I learned something....IAC's don't like oil AT ALL!!! :bows:

FYI..... :confused:

Marauderjack ;)

[BillyGman]

Just to let everyone know, in addition to replacing the Idle Air Control valve (which definately seemed to have been part of the problem with my Marauder), I also removed the intake tube from the throttle body, sprayed a bunch of throttle plate cleaner on a rag, and cleaned the throttle body off real good, especially where the throttle plates contact the inner diameter of the throttle bores.

And while I was cleaning that, I also noticed that there's a small idle RPM screw on the throttle linkage, and I gave it a half turn since my idle speed was only at 600 RPM's while in gear when the engine was fully warmed up. So now it's up at 750 RPM's (while in gear), and the thing idles perfect, and I no longer have any stalling.

[DEFYANT]

I wish we did not have to have the PCV / EGR systems mucky mucking up the inside of our engines!

[valleyman]

And while I was cleaning that, I also noticed that there's a small idle RPM screw on the throttle linkage, and I gave it a half turn since my idle speed was only at 600 RPM's while in gear when the engine was fully warmed up. So now it's up at 750 RPM's (while in gear), and the thing idles perfect, and I no longer have any stalling.[/QUOTE]


I think I recall someone posting that it wasn't a particularly good idea too adjust that screw but I can't remember what the reason was. :confused:

[DVader]

CHANGE THE GAS FILTER AGAIN.. I had the same problem last week with my Crown Vic. police car.
Please help......

Within the past week, my car has begun stalling. It has become progressively more frequent during the last few days (it happened twice yesterday), and I hate the thought of having to take it to the dealer!!! I usually give the dealer business for 6,000 mile interval transmission flush & fills, and for the roadforce wheel balance too, and that's enough as far as I'm concerned.But even if I end up taking it to the dealer, it would still be great if I can get a pretty good idea as to what this is, because the information that I give them might prevent a misdiagnosis, and i really want to avoid them touching anything on my car that they don't need to be messing with. I don't trust them at all!!

The engine cuts out usually only when it's fully warmed up, and only when it's either idling, or while I'm traveling at a very slow speed (such as 5 MPH). Very often, the engine RPM's begin to surge up and down right before it stalls, abd with each surge the RPM's drop lower. And this only happens while the car is in gear (never while in park). The sparkplugs, air cleaner, and fuel filter, all have only 6,000 miles on them, so I don't think it can be any of those things.

[BillyGman]

And while I was cleaning that, I also noticed that there's a small idle RPM screw on the throttle linkage, and I gave it a half turn since my idle speed was only at 600 RPM's while in gear when the engine was fully warmed up. So now it's up at 750 RPM's (while in gear), and the thing idles perfect, and I no longer have any stalling.

I think I recall someone posting that it wasn't a particularly good idea too adjust that screw but I can't remember what the reason was. :confused:[/QUOTE]I've never heard of that being a bad thing, but if you remember what you've read, or who made that claim, then please let us know. :)

[torinodan]

I think I recall someone posting that it wasn't a particularly good idea too adjust that screw but I can't remember what the reason was. :confused:I've never heard of that being a bad thing, but if you remember what you've read, or who made that claim, then please let us know. :)[/QUOTE]It can be adjusted some but it usually requires adjusting the TPS as well to set the voltage back to around stock. This is is not to confuse the computer anymore than it needs to be. This is what Iv'e done for a while and I might be wrong so someone check me.

[Warpath]

...I also removed the intake tube from the throttle body, sprayed a bunch of throttle plate cleaner on a rag, and cleaned the throttle body off real good, especially where the throttle plates contact the inner diameter of the throttle bores...

The OE throttle has a coating on it which is supposed to keep crud from building up on it. You may have cleaned it off. I've read about this film but don't have any first hand experience.

[BillyGman]

The OE throttle has a coating on it which is supposed to keep crud from building up on it. You may have cleaned it off. I've read about this film but don't have any first hand experience.Thanks for the heads-up, but the 3M brand stuff I used states on the can that it is safe to use for that same coating you're talking about. ;) Below you'll see a pic of the can containing what I used.....

[Warpath]

Good to know. I didn't know stuff like that existed although I've never looked. I thought you used the old skool carb only cleaner.

[BillyGman]

Good to know. I didn't know stuff like that existed .Join the club, because neither did I until somebody told me about it last week. ;) as they say..."Live and learn"....