Battery in the trunk

[Warpath]

Anyone move the battery to the trunk? If so, what size fuse did you put on the + wire? I'm guessing I'll need a 100 amp fuse. I bought Summits relocation kit and it didn't come with a fuse. :mad:

[RoyLPita]

Talk to Jerry Barnes or Lidio. I believe that Trilogy 1 has the battery in the trunk.

[Zack]

Ive never done it, but I cant see why you would need a fuse???

[Tallboy]

Talk to Jerry Barnes or Lidio. I believe that Trilogy 1 has the battery in the trunk.

[Begin Ed McMahon voice]

"You are correct, sir!"

[End Ed McMahon voice]

[Warpath]

I just don't like having the + wire go from the trunk to the engine compartment without a fuse. That's a lot of wire that has a potential to short out. I've seen pictures of a burned car where the fire started from a short on the relocated battery.

I have the Summit kit and it didn't come with a fuse. I searched for many other kits and they don't seem to come with fuses either. I found this thread which makes me rethink the whole think. I always like doing things the right way and this thread makes me rethink what I am doing.

http://www.modularfords.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28052

I'll send Lidio a PM. Thanks.

[Second Wind]

Anyone move the battery to the trunk? If so, what size fuse did you put on the + wire? I'm guessing I'll need a 100 amp fuse. I bought Summits relocation kit and it didn't come with a fuse. :mad:

I added a battery to the trunk, keeping the original, also. The battery is used only as an auxilliary, and the maximum load is only 5 amps. I didn't have the starter draw to worry about, or any of the other problems that remote batteries cause.

The relocation kit by itself doesn't need a fuse, any more than your original cable. All of the electrical components on the vehicle are, of course, protected by their respective circuits.

The problems with remote batteries are usually directly related to the longer cable(s). Longer cables cause more resistance, and are much less forgiving on a battery that might be weak. Also fires caused by the cable rubbing something on the car body/frame should be considered. Frequent inspection of the extended cable are almost mandantory.

Most folks that relocate in the trunk, use quick disconnect switches on the battery (available at Summit), but using one on your MM is going to cause another set of problems. (Resetting radio buttons, clocks, sunroof controls, etc..) would be too annoying to use it.


Unless you just absolutlely need the space where your original battery sits, I would leave it alone. Just my two cents worth.

[Warpath]

...Also fires caused by the cable rubbing something on the car body/frame should be considered. Frequent inspection of the extended cable are almost mandantory...

Which is why I'm looking for a fuse. I'm moving it for better weight distribution. It may not be worth the effort or cost. My simple, cheap mod is starting to add up.

[Second Wind]

Which is why I'm looking for a fuse. I'm moving it for better weight distribution. It may not be worth the effort or cost. My simple, cheap mod is starting to add up.

Well, since the starter motor will be your biggest power draw, you will a "fuse" that will handle the load that it has for the duration of the cranking time. My guess is that a 100 amp fuse won't last long. Just make sure you have a spare(s)! :)

Good luck,

[Tinaree]

Probably need a 500-700 amp breaker or fusible link. I don't think you are going to find a fuse that will fit that much draw easily. A 100 amp will blow in a few seconds. Your alternator is larger than that.

[Joe Walsh]

Which is why I'm looking for a fuse. I'm moving it for better weight distribution. It may not be worth the effort or cost. My simple, cheap mod is starting to add up.

You cannot put a fuse on the (+) cable....It draws WAYYY TOO MUCH current for any normal type fuse.
What you want to do is to mount a remote selenoid near the battery in the trunk and that way the (+) cable is only hot when you are cranking the engine.
You then run a second, smaller, fused wire to run the rest of the car's electrical needs.

If you really want to read all about this type install check out: www.madelectrical.com

I originally bought a trunk mount kit from Summit and promptly returned it because I found this company :
MAD Enterprises #(559) 539-7128
This guy makes HEAVY GAUGE double insulated (+) cables to any length you order, plus he has loads of accessories, heat shrink tubing, ring terminals, etc..
He has a couple different "HOW TO" pamplets on vehicle wiring as well.

Top notch company with top notch products. :up:

[Krytin]

If anything, a fusable link is the way to go but not needed if wire is run/anchored correctly! If the wire has movement/rubs or gets pinched it will short and burn - ask me how I know! Guard the cable where it turns or passes over an edge, gromet any through hole connections. Use cable clamps/hold-downs and wire ties as much as possible!

[Warpath]

Yeah, it seems like I'm the only one who wants to add a fuse. My OE battery is rated at 540 cold cranking amps. So, I may need a fuse that big.

Joe Walsh - Thanks for the link. I'll check it out. The link I posted above also details using the solenoid.

I bought the Summit kit since it was only $45. I'm not going to the track. So, I thought it would be good enough. The problems are starting to mount - the OE battery doesn't fit, I think I'll have to drop the tank to remove the battery (kit has J bolts and the nuts are under the body), etc. So, my simple, cheap mod is goind to cost me quite a bit more than I planned.

[Tinaree]

If you decide to go with a remote starter solenoid, then don't ever stick jumper cables on your battery. I've seen this setup burn the charge wire doing this. But the wire was either 14 or 16 ga, and the fuse on it was way too big (like 60A), so that may have been part of the problem. Theoretically a good battery will only draw a small current from the alt, but you add a bad battery into the mix and all bets are off.

[mtnh]

Joe, if you get a chance, check out a Lincoln LS. It has a factory trunk mounted power system. The + and - cables are encased in a metal sheath for the entire run to the engine compartment, and there is a substantial power distribution pod alongside the battery in the trunk to begin the power routing at the most upper levels. It's pretty cool, and helps to balance my car, a manual (V6 powered only), a 51/49 weight distribution f/r. The V8s are somewhere around 53/47. You will have to lift the spare tire cover to see if you can get your hands on one to look at.

Mike

[LordVader]

Talk to Jerry Barnes or Lidio. I believe that Trilogy 1 has the battery in the trunk.Roy...congrats on the new ride.. I have been out of town for the past two weeks, so I am behind on the site news. Looks good!!

[jgc61sr2002]

I believe Martyo has his battery trunk mounted.

[Warpath]

Joe, if you get a chance, check out a Lincoln LS. It has a factory trunk mounted power system. The + and - cables are encased in a metal sheath for the entire run to the engine compartment, and there is a substantial power distribution pod alongside the battery in the trunk to begin the power routing at the most upper levels. It's pretty cool, and helps to balance my car, a manual (V6 powered only), a 51/49 weight distribution f/r. The V8s are somewhere around 53/47. You will have to lift the spare tire cover to see if you can get your hands on one to look at.

Mike

Really? I'll see if I can get my hands on one. I wonder what parts can be used off the LS. They may be cheaper than aftermarket stuff. Good to know, thanks. I put this project off until I get my other projects completed. Its going to take a lot more effort and money than I first envisioned to do it right.