Motorcraft Tested Tough Max battery [Archive]

Donny Carlson

08-30-2005, 07:04 PM

Okay, so I'm about to drive off from Team Ford just about closing time for the shop on a Saturday after some mods had been installed, I notice unusual low voltages on my digital voltmeter. I show this to Scott, who tests the alternator, it's fine. He grabs a battery tester --- and the display says "replace battery."

Crap-o-la.

Scott takes me over to the service dept parts counter, a looksee around the parts bins, grabs a battery and is off to install it while American Express settles the bill with the parts guy.

I was just happy as hell to be hitting the road with a sound battery. What Scott put in was a Motorcraft Tested Tough Max. Yawn, you say? How about a warranty that includes free replacement for 36 months, with a 100 month limited warranty that includes FREE TOWING if the battery fails within the warrenty period? Cool!

http://www.genuineflmservice.com/default.asp?page=F3

It's Motorcraft BXT65850.

Best part was the discount. Thank you Scott!

2003DOHC

08-30-2005, 07:10 PM

I installed a Motorcraft BXT65850 last feb. $79.95. I have had excellent results with Motorcraft replacement batteries.

Donny Carlson

08-30-2005, 07:12 PM

I installed a Motorcraft BXT65850 last feb. $79.95. I have had excellent results with Motorcraft replacement batteries.
Oops! Fixed a typo. Mine is a BXT65850 as well.

2003DOHC

08-30-2005, 07:21 PM

Oops! Fixed a typo. Mine is a BXT65850 as well.

I need all the cca I can get here in Wisconsin :D

rkk

10-06-2005, 11:52 AM

Was just reading some posts about batteries. Some of you stated that you did not like the MotorCraft batteries, others did.

I did some research and found that there is an InterState Megatron Plus #MTP-65 battery that lists for $95.95 and has 875 CCAs for our MM. Has anybody used an Insterstate battery before? Any opinions?

G-Man

10-06-2005, 12:24 PM

When my stock battery died I replaced it with a Motorcraft Super Duty (65 series) 1000 CCA battery. This one has been taking all of the abuse that I can throw at it and then some. You have to specify the 1000 CCA since the ford dealership that I went to was completely unaware that these batteries existed.

wchain

10-06-2005, 12:42 PM

Okay, so I'm about to drive off from Team Ford just about closing time for the shop on a Saturday after some mods had been installed, I notice unusual low voltages on my digital voltmeter. I show this to Scott, who tests the alternator, it's fine. He grabs a battery tester --- and the display says "replace battery."

Crap-o-la.

Scott takes me over to the service dept parts counter, a looksee around the parts bins, grabs a battery and is off to install it while American Express settles the bill with the parts guy.

I was just happy as hell to be hitting the road with a sound battery. What Scott put in was a Motorcraft Tested Tough Max. Yawn, you say? How about a warranty that includes free replacement for 36 months, with a 100 month limited warranty that includes FREE TOWING if the battery fails within the warrenty period? Cool!

http://www.genuineflmservice.com/default.asp?page=F3

It's Motorcraft BXT65850.

Best part was the discount. Thank you Scott!

To get the towing Warranty, do you have to have the dealer install it, or can you buy it off the shelf?

GreekGod

10-06-2005, 03:11 PM

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif Super Duty

<HR style="COLOR: #dddddd" SIZE=1>When my stock battery died I replaced it with a Motorcraft Super Duty (65 series) 1000 CCA battery. This one has been taking all of the abuse that I can throw at it and then some. You have to specify the 1000 CCA since the ford dealership that I went to was completely unaware that these batteries existed....I thought the 65 series has been around for years...the 24F Sears Gold in my '79 F150 is over 10 years old and still takes a full charge! I've never had an auto battery last over 4 years before. The Motorcraft batts are definitely good and have tested well in 'Consumer Reports'.

G-Man

10-06-2005, 03:18 PM

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif Super Duty

<HR style="COLOR: #dddddd" SIZE=1>When my stock battery died I replaced it with a Motorcraft Super Duty (65 series) 1000 CCA battery. This one has been taking all of the abuse that I can throw at it and then some. You have to specify the 1000 CCA since the ford dealership that I went to was completely unaware that these batteries existed....I thought the 65 series has been around for years...the 24F Sears Gold in my '79 F150 is over 10 years old and still takes a full charge! I've never had an auto battery last over 4 years before. The Motorcraft batts are definitely good and have tested well in 'Consumer Reports'.
The 65 series (this is the case size) has been around for years. The Super Duty comes in a 900 CCA version. It is the 1000 CCA version of the Super Duty battery that the dealer was unaware of.

wchain

10-06-2005, 03:26 PM

http://www.motorcraft.com/products.do?item=3

Consumer Reports has Rated the Motorcraft Highly. What suprised me is that the Group 65 rated highest was the Pep Boys House Brand (Now an Energizer)

Good to see you G Man. I still want to buy the car when you retire it :up:

JohnE

10-06-2005, 03:59 PM

I'm about to replace my stock battery from 2000 with over 116,000 miles on the car. Still works, just doesn't have a lot of reserve for accessories without the engine running. Sounds like a Group 65 Motorcarft would be a good pick.

John

GreekGod

10-06-2005, 05:21 PM

<CENTER>BCI Group Numbers, Dimensional Specifications, Polarity & Terminals </CENTER><TABLE cellSpacing=6 cellPadding=2 border=0><TBODY><TR vAlign=bottom align=right><TH align=left>Group</TH><TH>L"</TH><TH>W"</TH><TH>H"</TH><TH>Lmm</TH><TH>Wmm</TH><TH>Hmm</TH><TH>Figure</TH><TH>Polarity</TH><TH></TH><TH align=middle>Terminals</TH></TR><TR align=right><TD noWrap align=left>22F</TD><TD>9.5</TD><TD>6.9</TD><TD>8.3</TD><TD>240</TD><TD>175</TD><TD>211</TD><TD>11</TD><TD>R/H-POS</TD><TH></TH><TD>TOP - SAE AUTO</TD></TR><TR align=right><TD noWrap align=left>22NF</TD><TD>9.4</TD><TD>5.5</TD><TD>8.9</TD><TD>240</TD><TD>140</TD><TD>227</TD><TD>11</TD><TD>R/H-POS</TD><TH></TH><TD>TOP - SAE AUTO</TD></TR><TR align=right><TD noWrap align=left>24</TD><TD>10.3</TD><TD>6.8</TD><TD>8.9</TD><TD>260</TD><TD>175</TD><TD>225</TD><TD>10</TD><TD>L/H-POS</TD><TH></TH><TD>TOP - SAE AUTO</TD></TR><TR align=right><TD noWrap align=left>24F</TD><TD>10.3</TD><TD>6.8</TD><TD>8.9</TD><TD>260</TD><TD>175</TD><TD>225</TD><TD>11</TD><TD>R/H-POS</TD><TH></TH><TD>TOP - SAE AUTO</TD></TR><TR align=right><TD noWrap align=left>25</TD><TD>9.1</TD><TD>6.9</TD><TD>8.9</TD><TD>230</TD><TD>175</TD><TD>225</TD><TD>10</TD><TD>L/H-POS</TD><TH></TH><TD>TOP - SAE AUTO</TD></TR><TR align=right><TD noWrap align=left>26</TD><TD>8.2</TD><TD>6.9</TD><TD>7.8</TD><TD>208</TD><TD>175</TD><TD>197</TD><TD>10</TD><TD>L/H-POS</TD><TH></TH><TD>TOP - SAE AUTO</TD></TR><TR align=right><TD noWrap align=left>26R</TD><TD>8.2</TD><TD>6.9</TD><TD>7.8</TD><TD>208</TD><TD>175</TD><TD>197</TD><TD>11</TD><TD>R/H-POS</TD><TH></TH><TD>TOP - SAE AUTO</TD></TR><TR align=right><TD noWrap align=left>26 - 70</TD><TD>8.2</TD><TD>6.9</TD><TD>7.8</TD><TD>208</TD><TD>175</TD><TD>197</TD><TD>10 & 17</TD><TD>C-LINE</TD><TH></TH><TD>TOP & SIDE</TD></TR><TR align=right><TD noWrap align=left>27</TD><TD>12.1</TD><TD>6.8</TD><TD>8.9</TD><TD>306</TD><TD>175</TD><TD>225</TD><TD>10</TD><TD>L/H-POS</TD><TH></TH><TD>TOP - SAE AUTO</TD></TR><TR align=right><TD noWrap align=left>27F</TD><TD>12.1</TD><TD>6.8</TD><TD>8.9</TD><TD>306</TD><TD>175</TD><TD>225</TD><TD>11</TD><TD>R/H-POS</TD><TH></TH><TD>TOP - SAE AUTO</TD></TR><TR align=right><TD noWrap align=left>29NF</TD><TD>13</TD><TD>5.5</TD><TD>8.9</TD><TD>330</TD><TD>140</TD><TD>227</TD><TD>11</TD><TD>R/H-POS</TD><TH></TH><TD>TOP - SAE AUTO</TD></TR><TR align=right><TD noWrap align=left>33</TD><TD>13.3</TD><TD>6.8</TD><TD>9.4</TD><TD>338</TD><TD>173</TD><TD>238</TD><TD>11</TD><TD>R/H-POS</TD><TH></TH><TD>TOP - SAE AUTO</TD></TR><TR align=right><TD noWrap align=left>34</TD><TD>10.3</TD><TD>6.8</TD><TD>7.9</TD><TD>260</TD><TD>175</TD><TD>200</TD><TD>10</TD><TD>L/H-POS</TD><TH></TH><TD>TOP - SAE AUTO</TD></TR><TR align=right><TD noWrap align=left>34R</TD><TD>10.3</TD><TD>6.8</TD><TD>7.9</TD><TD>260</TD><TD>173</TD><TD>200</TD><TD>11</TD><TD>R/H-POS</TD><TH></TH><TD>TOP - SA</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

GreekGod

10-06-2005, 05:23 PM

Donny Carlson

10-06-2005, 09:55 PM

To get the towing Warranty, do you have to have the dealer install it, or can you buy it off the shelf?
It has to be dealer installed... at least where I bought it it did.

metroplex

10-07-2005, 04:06 AM

I was just happy as hell to be hitting the road with a sound battery. What Scott put in was a Motorcraft Tested Tough Max. Yawn, you say? How about a warranty that includes free replacement for 36 months, with a 100 month limited warranty that includes FREE TOWING if the battery fails within the warrenty period? Cool!
No offense, but there's nothing cool or unique about that. Walmart, Sears, Autozone, etc... pretty much carry batteries that all have the 3 year full replacement / 100 month pro-rated warranty. The only part that's unique is the free towing, but since it's dealer installed, I wouldn't get that if I bought a Motorcraft / JCI battery. I don't trust the local stealership to even LOOK at the battery. These are the same guys that tell me "Black is the wrong color" saying that I should never have bought a blue or black Ford because the paint will peel off. Buy white / red anything other than blue or black. :help:

How old was the old battery? 3 years? My dad's experience with Ford factory batteries has been LESS THAN favorable. He bought a new 1981 T-bird off the lot in 1981 and after 3 months the battery crapped out leaving him stranded. He factory ordered a 1989 E-150 and the day after the 3 year warranty was up, his battery died leaving him stranded at work.

I took the initiative and dumped the factory Motorcraft Group 65 850 CCA battery in the Vic at 3 months and replaced with a Sears DH Gold. The 2003 E-250 is still running the factory Motorcraft battery, and I understand MANY Panther owners run the factory battery for 7-8+ years w/o any problems. That is why I'm keeping a close watch on the state of charge periodically.

GreekGod

10-07-2005, 04:30 AM

It's always a good idea to buy a quality digital VOM (Volt-Ohm-Meter, like a "Fluke" brand) and check vehicle battery voltage once a month when checking tire pressure, oil/fluid levels, etc. I neighbor resently noticed corrosion on my + post cable clamp, which is hidden by the red cover. Anyone know of a good replacement for the "cheap" OEM cable/clamp? I'm looking for Combat-Tested-Tough as Taxi-Tested-Tough isn't tough enough for a Michigan Militia member like me!

metroplex

10-07-2005, 05:22 AM

If you find any easy drop-in replacement terminals that work very well, please let me know as well. I have the pre-03 cable "clamps" which is like cheap spring steel that cuts into the terminal.

I use vaseline to prevent corrosion since the engine heat will melt it and let it coat everything. I have upgraded from a flooded lead-acid battery to a VRLA AGM (Optima). These are kind of neat w/ the Whiz-Bang factor but it doesn't fit my "tray" (ahem, molded fender well) very well. The old Group 65 never fit well and the battery holder clamp cuts into the top of the battery case.

Zim Hosein

04-26-2010, 08:05 PM

It has to be dealer installed... at least where I bought it it did.

I'll have to call the dealer that services my family's MM to verify this fact, but the piece of mind is definitely worth the added expense verses installing it myself. :beer:

FordNut

04-26-2010, 08:19 PM

Cool, a 5-year old thread started by Donny comes back to the top!

MENINBLK

04-26-2010, 11:32 PM

It's always a good idea to buy a quality digital VOM (Volt-Ohm-Meter, like a "Fluke" brand) and check vehicle battery voltage once a month when checking tire pressure, oil/fluid levels, etc.

This is NOT what you test your battery with.
You need a Battery LOAD tester.

I change my Battery every 50k miles.
Just think how many times you've started your car in 50k miles ?
Every time you go to ONE place, you need to start your car TWICE.
Now add multiple trips within a day.....

When I replaced my battery, I looked for the CCA for a replacement battery.
In New York, the winters are unpredictable.
I bought the Motorcraft Tested Tough Max BXT 65 850
(1000 Cranking Amps at 32F).
I've already got 50,000 miles on this battery and I'll have it tested the next time the Marauder is serviced.
If it shows any weakness, its gets pulled for the same replacement.

Anyone want the used one ???

GreekGod

04-27-2010, 03:05 AM

This is NOT what you test your battery with.
You need a Battery LOAD tester....

This is what I test my battery with. A VOM voltage reading will tell you if it is fully charged. I load test my battery every time I start the car. If the battery is weak, the starter will turn slowly, or not at all. Then it is time for a new Curtis-Mathis. ;)

Before using a load tester, the battery must be fully charged.

============================== ===================

boatmangc

04-27-2010, 03:41 AM

A VOM (even a Fluke) will tell you voltage but not what is important-amps. You can show a fully charged battery with 13+ volts with a meter and fail a load test and not start your car!

GreekGod

04-27-2010, 12:52 PM

A VOM (even a Fluke) will tell you voltage but not what is important-amps. You can show a fully charged battery with 13+ volts with a meter and fail a load test and not start your car!

Yes, that is what I said. If a fully charged battery won't start a car, or turns the engine slowly, it is an indication the battery may be defective.

============================== =

MENINBLK

04-27-2010, 01:22 PM

This is what I test my battery with. A VOM voltage reading will tell you if it is fully charged. I load test my battery every time I start the car. If the battery is weak, the starter will turn slowly, or not at all. Then it is time for a new Curtis-Mathis. ;)

Before using a load tester, the battery must be fully charged.

============================== ===================

A VOM (VOLT OHM Meter) is just that.
The load it puts on a battery is miniscule.

A Battery LOAD tester measures the Voltage while a LOAD is placed on the battery.
If your fully charged battery cranks your starter, that's fine,
but it can STILL fail a load test !!!!
Your starter doesn't put enough LOAD on a battery to fully test it.

It's just like telling a Honda owner...
"I've got more torque on my lugs nuts than you do in your engine..." :banana2:

GreekGod

04-27-2010, 03:18 PM

A VOM (VOLT OHM Meter) is just that.
The load it puts on a battery is miniscule.

A Battery LOAD tester measures the Voltage while a LOAD is placed on the battery.
If your fully charged battery cranks your starter, that's fine,
but it can STILL fail a load test !!!!
Your starter doesn't put enough LOAD on a battery to fully test it....

A voltage test is used to determine if the battery is charged. It is not a load test, it is a voltage test. This is to be done before a load test, and after removing any surface charge. It is not proper to load test a battery before checking the charge in it.

A starter could put enough load on the battery to "fully" test it, especially at 0 degrees F. (~400 amps), with the ignition disabled. A battery that fails a load test could still continue in service for many months, but probably not a good idea for an aeroplane.

From this tutorial: http://www.batterystuff.com/tutorial_battery.html#6
"6. Battery Testing can be done in more than one way. The most accurate method is measurement of specific gravity and battery voltage. To measure specific gravity buy a temperature compensating hydrometer, to measure voltage use a digital D.C. Voltmeter. A quality load tester may be a good purchase if you need to test sealed batteries."
==========================

MENINBLK

04-27-2010, 04:53 PM

Just in case, anyone else in interested in the proper procedures
for charging your battery and testing it to determine its performance level,
there is an EXCELLENT read right here...
Read it ENTIRELY... :banned:

http://autorepair.about.com/library/weekly/aa101604c.htm

hwy73

04-27-2010, 05:23 PM

Its not the volts, its the amps

"220....221, whatever it takes".......Tom Hanks

:popcorn::popcorn: