favorite/recommended synth oil & filter?

[USN_Lifer]

Can anyone recommend a good synthetic oil brand/type? It seems basic but there are a lot of choices out there and I want to be sure of what I'm getting. Also, anyone use those K&N oil filters? What's the consensus on this board? Thanks!

[TooManyFords]

I use Mobil-1 5W20, Motocraft filter and change my oil every 10,000 miles or so.

John

[Skiordie53]

i use mobil 1 5w20 with a pureolator pure one filter change ever 3000 or so

[torinodan]

I like this oil..........j/k:D I use Royal Purple

[rocknrod]

I like this oil..........j/k:D I use Royal PurpleHey "Max Beep" nice Avatar:D

[jgc61sr2002]

Mobil 1 is recommended by car manufactures. Some new vehicles have Mobil 1 from the factory.

[johnfain]

I am going to start using AMSOIL 5W-20 I have heard nothing but great things about it.

['03BlkMM]

Mobil 1 5W-20 and a Purolator Pure One filter. I change the filter at 3000MI and then change the oil and filter at 6000 mi.

[grampaws]

Amsoil 5w20 and filter

[rayjay]

I've used the MotorCraft 5w-20, Royal Purple 5w-20, and now Mobil 1 5w-30, all with MotorCraft filters. The engine seems to run quieter with the Mobil 1 5w-30. I will be putting in 5w-20 full synthetic for the winter. I'll flip a coin to decide which brand to use...

[grampaws]

I've tried the Motorcraft...very good oil but the amsoil and the

mobil stayed cleaner longer..

[ctrcbob]

I have no brand loyalty whatsoever. I only use Group IV or Group V Synthetics.

The ones I use are:

Mobil-1 10W-30 (the regular M1, not the EP M1) (Group-IV)
AmsOil 10W-30 (yellow label, not red label) (Group-IV)
RedLine 10W-30 (Group-V Synthetic)

As you can see, living in the heat of Central Florida, I'm not about to use the
5W-20 stuff the Ford wants us to use, or even 5W-30.

That being said, if I lived in the colder climates, I would use either Mobil-1 or AmsOil in the 5W-30 weight, or even:

Castrol Syntec 0W-30, but only the one that says Made in Germany on the back label. (Group-IV) This synthetic is colored Green and is great stuff. Can be purchased at Auto Zone. (My Auto Zone has plenty at $4.99 a quart). They used to sell one (forget the weight) that was made in Belgium, but Castrol has converted that weight to American made and not as good. All other Syntec's are Group III "Synthetics" which are made from the stuff you get out of the ground. European Synthetics are better than American/Canadian "Synthetics". In Europe, automakers (as with my leased Renault) say in the owners manual, to change oil every 30,000 km. (About 18750 miles).
Most want you to use "Elf", "Total", AGIP or even M-1 (European version).
I doubt if European Engines are better than our engines, but the oil sure is.

If you change your oil every 3000 to 5000 miles, you can use anything.

[RF Overlord]

Mobil 1 5W-30 w/Motorcraft FL-820S filter.

K&N oil filters are very high quality, but they're no better than the Motorcraft and cost almost triple. Also, the Motorcraft filter has the bypass in the threaded end, which is where Ford specifies it. The K&N does not.

[WolfeBros]

I'm only here because this is an oil thread and I saw RF posted in it. :D

[MM03MOK]

I'm only here because this is an oil thread and I saw RF posted in it. :D:laugh: :laugh:

[RF Overlord]

I'm only here because this is an oil thread and I saw RF posted in it. :DDammit, caught in the act...next I'll have Don Stevens on my case :P

[Jolly Roger]

Castrol Syntec 5W20 and Motorcraft filter.

[rayjay]

[QUOTE=RF Overlord]Mobil 1 5W-30 QUOTE]

Oh, I thought you were a 5w-20 man... remind me to kill you later.

[python357]

I get the free oil and filter change at my dealer for the MM but in my other car I use Royal Purple and K&n filter every 5000mi.

[Amsoil_Dealer]

I can't resist.

Amsoil XLM 5W20 and Amsoil SDF-11 filter.

ASL 5W30 or ATM 10W30 for supercharged cars.

Don

[RF Overlord]

Don, I'm disappointed...I thought after meeting me last week you'd make a point of giving me grief about posting in an oil thread...! ;)

BTW, it was nice to put a voice and face to the name...I wish you could have stayed longer. :bows: ...and your CV is even sharper in person than in your pix...

[gonzo50]

Can anyone recommend a good synthetic oil brand/type? It seems basic but there are a lot of choices out there and I want to be sure of what I'm getting. Thanks!
Just came across this ad in the Hod Rod Magazine, Pennzoil Platinum Synthetic 5w-30....
Go to the site below, and click where it says "Click Here" to learn 20 facts about full synthetic oil. It's pretty neat ! :2thumbs:
www.pennzoil.com

Also, what do ya'll think about these spark plugs in our Marauders ? :confused:
www.e3sparkplugs.com

[RF Overlord]

Thanks for the Pennzoil link, gonzo...hopefully it will help anyone who's still mis-informed about the advantages of synthetic oil.

One clarification I would like to add is that people should understand the difference between "full synthetic" and "true synthetic". "Full" synth is a reference to the percentage of synthetic vs. mineral, and is opposed to "synth blend"...that is, full synth is ALL synthetic instead of being part synth and part dino. MOST "full" synthetic oils are Group III severely hydrocracked mineral oils and are not considered to be "true" synthetics. "True" synthetic oils are those made with Group IV or V basestocks, such as Mobil 1, AMSOIL, Royal Purple, and Red Line, for example.

(Pennzoil Platinum is in fact a true synthetic, along with the 4 mentioned above.)

Please understand that most "full synthetic" oils are in fact very good oils, and no one should refuse to use one simply because it isn't a "true" synth. I know it's a matter of semantics, but I like the facts to be clear. Use whatever oil makes you happy, just be clear on exactly WHAT you're using, and WHY.

[SergntMac]

I believe the best engine oil is clean engine oil. Buy it as inexpensive as you can, and change it often. L/M dealerships carry this in bulk, and around Chicagoland, an oil change with filter averages 25 bucks.

I change oil and filter every 2500 miles without complaint. My Vortech supercharged 4.6L engine has been built for power, and 18 PSI of boost will contaminate engine oil with unburned fuel more than a stock engine. My frequent engine oil analysis confirms a higher content of unburned fuel by "parts per million" percentage, and higher contamination is common in race engines.

IMHO, most of us here enjoy the ocassional "on ramp" romp, and I'll remind y'all that all engines produce fuel blow-by into the crankcase. If you rev your engine over 4000 RPM, you'll get fuel blow-by. How much is a matter of degree, but still, anyone pushing 6000 RPMs on a dyno, open road, or, race track, is increasing their fuel contamination, bone stock or not. Therefore, 5000 miles between changes will damage a race engine, and IMHO, this mileage between drains is not in the best interests of a bone stock engine as well. You can check your Marauder yourself easy enough with a few EOAs of your own. For the 15 or so bucks each, you can't beat the deal on diagnostics.

I just completed a very informal road test of my favorite engine oil vs. Mobil 1. I changed my oil and filter just before leaving for MV-III-A, installing bulk Motorcraft 5W20 @1.99 per quart for the srive. This has been my favorite for years, I used it in my '94 Towncar and 3 V8/AWD Mountaineers, all enduring my heavy right toe. It's very trustworthy and durable, and I don't think anyone can prove otherwise. So, I have two questions on my mind.

1) Are other blends and weights better?
2) If so, what benefits come to the surface that my Motorcraft 5W20 does not provide? Y'all tell me.

Here's the stats collected by my ScanGuage, please keep in mind that no effort was made to conserve fuel. This is a 500+ RWHP Marauder, and we exploited every mile of the drive for maximum pleasure.

1158 miles traveled, Chicago to Orange Park, FL. via Tiption IN.
16.2 hours continous drive time (no break longer than 30 min.)
70 MPH overall average speed
188 degrees average engine temp, 209 degrees maximum
18.3 MPG with A/C on.

For the return flight, I installed Mobil 1 5W30 @ 5.49 per quart, and the newly released Mobile 1 filter. Around my neighborhood, this oil is 6.99 per quart, but I found it at a K-Mark in Orange Park for 5.49 per quart. BTW, my fill is 6.5 quarts, so, I have to buy 7 quarts.

1155 miles traveled (route change through IN.)
15.5 hours continous drive time (no break longer than 30 min.)
73 MPH overall average speed (lighter traffic OTR on Sunday)
185 degrees average engine temp, 215 degrees maximum
17.1 MPG with A/C on.

The differences I observed are nominal and do not justify the $3.50 difference per quart for Mobil 1 synthetic over my Motorcraft bulk. That's 35 bucks per oil change, someone please show me why or where this is worth it?

There's a comment ^ there about Mobil 1 appearing "cleaner, longer" and IMHO, engine oil is supposed to lubricate, AND wash away contaminates introduced by the fuel system and combustion process. My observations tell me that both Motorcraft and Mobil 1 drains appear sufficiently "used". An EOA would be telling, but visually, both blends/weights do their house cleaning jobs.

This study is strictly for my own entertainment, but I see no reason to keep the results to myself. I was looking for any evidence I could find outside a research labratory, or, advertising campaign, that I could stand on to justify the additional expense of one oil over another. I'm not picking on Mobil 1, there are other "exotic" (IMHO) blends to choose from, all more expensive. I want to know why, what's the benefit here, and my study failed to answer this.

Moreover, I recently studied how oil weights at large affect engine operating temps, which is critical in my application by maintaining a proper tune and ideal combustion process. Those results are posted here:

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=20456

IMHO, the best engine oil for the 4.6L DOHC Marauder engine is the factory recommended Motorcraft 5W20, with 2500 mile drain routine, or, before stressful events such as a day at the racetrack, or, an extended road trip. The benefits of a full synthetic lubricant over the bulk and less expensive multisynthetic blend are not visible to me. As Jerry Barnes has said..."save your money", and I agree.

Some of you will disagree with my results, and my opinion. That's okay with me, but please post your own personal experience with your opinion, as I have presented here. BTW, this study was witnessed by an independent party, no fudging the numbers. The only flaw I can admit to, is that I was not the only person "topping off" the fuel tank, thus, mileage numbers based on replenished fuel are a tad off, but of no long term consequence.

Just my .02C, hope this helps. Carry on...

[RF Overlord]

Excellent info, Mac...!

So much about oil is speculation and hearsay, but you've done REAL WORLD testing and that's the best kind. :up:

I agree with 99% of what Mac says above, regarding engines that are driven under boost conditions regularly, or are raced at a track; good clean oil changed at 2500-mile intervals is an excellent regimen. However, for those that are N/A, synthetic oil DOES have a few potential advantages:

1). Flows better at very cold temps (gets to the cams faster)
2). Resists oxidation at very high temps (doesn't turn to sludge)
3). Stays in grade longer (doesn't thin out as it ages)

Are these benefits of any use to the average driver?...enough to warrant the extra expense? Maybe. Only the car's owner can decide that.

Mac, would Zack's motor have fared as well when his oil cooler line blew if he did NOT have Mobil 1 in the crankcase? Again, the answer is maybe. But if it was MY motor that happened to, I would sure feel a lot better about it knowing I was using synthetic, so for ME, it's worth the extra couple of clams.

I've said it again and I'll say it before ;) : anyone with a power adder (supercharger, turbo, or nitrous) would be well advised to do regular oil analysis until they establish baseline operating parameters for their particular driving conditions.

[SergntMac]

Mac, would Zack's motor have fared as well when his oil cooler line blew if he did NOT have Mobil 1 in the crankcase? Again, the answer is maybe. But if it was MY motor that happened to, I would sure feel a lot better about it knowing I was using synthetic, so for ME, it's worth the extra couple of clams. No argument from me, Bob, you were on the scene with me. Surely, a sudden loss of oil spells catastrophy, and I believe Zack's fresh Mobil 1 earned it's pay. If this justifies the added expense every oil change, it's cool.

[ctrcbob]

The way I read it, that Pennsoil Synthetic is still a Group III Synthetic, not nearly as good as a Group IV (PAO) or Group V (Ester) Synthetic.

If anyone saw where they said it was a PAO or Ester, let us know what page you saw it in. Otherwise, it is just another phony Hydrocracked Group III made from the stuff that comes out of the ground.

BTW. Why can't these Synthetic oils state on the bottle what type of synthetic they are? I'm not a lover of AmsOil, but at least they print on the case of their 10W-30 that it is a full PAO. I would love to see oils state on the bottle if it is a Group III, IV or V Synthetic.

[RF Overlord]

If anyone saw where they said it was a PAO or Ester, let us know what page you saw it in. Otherwise, it is just another phony Hydrocracked Group III made from the stuff that comes out of the ground.
bob, the regular Pennzoil Synthetic IS a Group III. While I don't have any direct PROOF that Plat is a true synth, a respected member over on BITOG who works for Pennzoil says that it is an EOP (ethylene-alphaolefin polymer) produced by Shell. So even though it's neither PAO- or ester-based, it's not Group III.

[ctrcbob]

Ethylene Alphaolefin polymer sure looks like Polyalphaolefin (PAO) to me.