Tranny Fluid Type and SYN Swap Options?

[merc6]

Seeing that I'm the 3rd owner, the pwners manual got lost between the texas and flordia owner. What is the recomended factoy tranny fluid type? I guess at 31K i'm seriously near a tranny fluid change. What are the synthetic fluid options and who is running any of them?

[RF Overlord]

What is the recomended factoy tranny fluid type? Mercon V.
I guess at 31K i'm seriously near a tranny fluid change.Yes, you are.
What are the synthetic fluid options and who is running any of them?The only true synthetic I know of that is rated for Mercon V is AMSOIL Universal ATF, but unless you have a power adder, tow a lot, or are very hard on your car, any good Mercon V (they're all at least a synth blend) if changed at appropriate intervals will be fine.

[merc6]

Whats the estimate on an "average" tranny flush and do we have servicable filters.

[RF Overlord]

Cost? Dunno...I always do it myself. If you've never done it before, it's actually quite easy...here's the link (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/faq.php?faq=how_to#faq_trans_f luid_chg) to the how-to in the FAQ.

Yes, the filter is user-replaceable...Motorcraft FT-105.

My regimen is to drain the fluid every 10,000 miles (I have a pan with a drain-plug), and replace the filter every third time. Another way would be to have a complete fluid exchange done every 30,000 miles using a T-Tech (or similar) machine, either at the dealer or at a competent shop (NOT a quicky-lube).

[merc6]

Just remember a shop in Va did it for $89. It was Merchants Tire IIRC. Would that be a smart choice or should I see what carmax or ford is gonna charge?

[David Morton]

Whats the estimate on an "average" tranny flush and do we have servicable filters.I get a line type flush here for $80.

A line flush is where they take the cooler lines off and use the transmission pumping action to push out almost all of the old fluid while a machine pumps in fresh fluid. This is the best method because it will replace almost all the old fluid.

Yes, the filters are serviceable but replacing them is not necessary. Transmissions don't burn any fuel, so there isn't much they have to filter out. The filters are there to catch the initial flake offs from the clutches and casted aluminum parts that occurs in the first 1000 miles or so and the filters are about as big as a car vacuum cleaner bag. I've done hundreds maybe thousands of "drop the pan" fluid and filter changes and have never seen a plugged filter, unless the tranny was "making metal" in which case it was well on it's way to catastrophic failure already.

Let me say it again so it's clear. Modern transmissions do not need to have the filter replaced. If the filter is plugging up it'll be because the transmission is tearing up anyways, and a new filter won't stop that.

A line flush eliminates many goofs that can occur with a drop pan and filter change such as scratching the pump pickup tube, damaging the new filter installed, causing a pan leak and the wind blowing a dust particle or hair inside the valve body sticking a valve.

All those bad accidents and you still only get to replace about half the fluid, so you have to change it twice as often.

Do the line flush. Trust me it's better all around.

[DEFYANT]

So you just disconnect the cooler line toward the radiator, run the engine at idle and collect the trans fluid in a container until it stops?

Is there any risk of damage to the pump if it runs dry? I would guess the best time to do this is when the car is cold, correct?

[David Morton]

So you just disconnect the cooler line toward the radiator, run the engine at idle and collect the trans fluid in a container until it stops?

Is there any risk of damage to the pump if it runs dry? I would guess the best time to do this is when the car is cold, correct?NO! Do not try to do this at home by dumping fluid from a cooler line into a bucket and trying to keep up with the pump, and certainly it will hurt the pump if it runs dry!

Go to a service facility that has a machine that is made to do this job.

[DEFYANT]

NO! Do not try to do this at home by dumping fluid from a cooler line into a bucket and trying to keep up with the pump, and certainly it will hurt the pump if it runs dry!

Go to a service facility that has a machine that is made to do this job.

I didn't think it could be that simple.

Thanks for the clarification.

[juno]

Kenne Bell recommends Red Line.

"Red Line is the best we've ever tested. We've documented a 15HP gain and 20 degree temperature reduction from synthetic oil in the
engine, trans and rear end. The next best choice is good old Mobile 1 Synthetic."

[merc6]

Would that be
Redline D4?

[DEFYANT]

Kenne Bell recommends Red Line.

"Red Line is the best we've ever tested. We've documented a 15HP gain and 20 degree temperature reduction from synthetic oil in the
engine, trans and rear end. The next best choice is good old Mobile 1 Synthetic."


Interesting, I found a link... this should be a good read:
http://www.redlineoil.com/products_gearlubricants.asp?su bcatID=19

[jgc61sr2002]

Cost? Dunno...I always do it myself. If you've never done it before, it's actually quite easy...here's the link (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/faq.php?faq=how_to#faq_trans_f luid_chg) to the how-to in the FAQ.

Yes, the filter is user-replaceable...Motorcraft FT-105.

My regimen is to drain the fluid every 10,000 miles (I have a pan with a drain-plug), and replace the filter every third time. Another way would be to have a complete fluid exchange done every 30,000 miles using a T-Tech (or similar) machine, either at the dealer or at a competent shop (NOT a quicky-lube).


That's what I do .:D

[roadhawk]

If anyone's had a problem with the tranny slipping or gear hunting, just add some Lucas Stop Slip from a nearby Advance Auto Parts. I did that for my dad's car, and ever since then, the car's been taking off like a ***** ape! The other thing is that the throttle's rather sensitive for folks who aren't all that familiar with a car of this much power and bulk, the best thing to do would be to lightly press on the gas pedal to get the car to accelerate smoothly. All ya gotta do is look up in the rear view mirror, and see everyone else get smaller in size as you leave the traffic light. This car's great for putting a BIG grin on a young fella's face! :D More to come.

[RF Overlord]

If anyone's had a problem with the tranny slipping or gear hunting, just add some Lucas Stop Slip from a nearby Advance Auto Parts.No. Additives like that are only short-term band-aids at best...if the transmission is slipping or gear hunting, then there is a PROBLEM that needs to be addressed, not by putting in some miracle-in-a-can snake oil, but by doing troubleshooting, determining the cause of the issue, and fixing it PROPERLY.

[SergntMac]

No. Additives like that are only short-term band-aids at best...if the transmission is slipping or gear hunting, then there is a PROBLEM that needs to be addressed, not by putting in some miracle-in-a-can snake oil, but by doing troubleshooting, determining the cause of the issue, and fixing it PROPERLY.I agree, it's not normal behavior and all you do with off the shelf additives, is postpone repair. Get it looked at while you have options, things never break when you have nothing better to do...

[David Morton]

No. Additives like that are only short-term band-aids at best...if the transmission is slipping or gear hunting, then there is a PROBLEM that needs to be addressed, not by putting in some miracle-in-a-can snake oil, but by doing troubleshooting, determining the cause of the issue, and fixing it PROPERLY.Oh man! You mean to say we can't use Mechanic-in-a-Can(R)? But it says right there on the label I can save thousands of dollars in repairs! Money-back guarantee too! Surely they wouldn't lie.

:lol:


Spoil sport. Next thing you're gonna be telling us Engine-Overhaul-in-a-Can(R) doesn't work either!

:lol:


The smiling guy on the label sure looks like a mechanic. And what about that Teflon(R) inside?

[David Morton]

Excuse the earlier sarcasm. I'd like to put in some General Motors Training Center advice concerning automatic transmission diagnosis and repair where additives are concerned.

Automatic transmissions are very complicated pieces of machinery and finding the cause of a problem can be like looking for a needle in a haystack. Often the only way to correct a shifting problem is to be able to drive the thing while it's still in the car so a proper diagnosis can be made. Then the technician can go directly to the cause. If an additive has been put in the fluid, it can throw off the diagnosis sending him down the wrong path. He might not fix it at all, in fact he might make it worse.

Using an additive on an automatic transmission is one of the worst things you can do. Don't even do it as a stopgap. It doesn't matter what they say, as a technician I was taught that if I caught wind of an additive having been used on an automatic I was working on, to warn the customer and not guarantee the results. Best to just recommend he replace it with a SRTA (Service Replacement Transmission Assembly).

I'm serious as a heart-attack. DON'T EVER USE ATF ADDITIVES!

[cougarmandan]

So you guys change your tranny fluid. I have had too many people I know have to buy new transmission after changing the fluid. My father in laws Chevy Pickup was the latest victum to his dealership. They recommended that it be changed and a week later on his way to my house (7 hour trip), it stops shifting. He called the dealership, well, changing the fluid didn't cause that, it was something already wrong is their contention. Well, to make a short story long, he likes his new hemi. Sez a lot for a Chevy guy. Transmission guy I know here had a look at it, and they said they don't change the fluid if it has over 35-40k miles. I have had 3 friends that had similer problem. One friend had it happen on 2 of his cars, at least one while under warrenty, both done my the L-M dealership. All different methods/places and brands of cars. I don't change mine. My 95 Mark 8 Has 120k miles and the original fluid. My 97 Expedition had 137k, original fluid when I sold it. They both shift and drive perfect. The transmission guys say new fluid can be solvent like and break loose friction material deposits. He said you need to start early if you are going to do it and that if you wait until after 40k miles for your first change, change it every 2-3k miles 3 or 4 times. Its not worth the trouble to me. If I can get over 100k, that good enough in my book. However, on the flip side, I have another friend that bought a used Explorer with 40k miles on it, at ~55k he changed it for the first time, and changed his once a year. At 90k, still no problem. So you never know. I hate rebuilding automatic transmissions that have come apart on the inside. They are so hard to get clean and back into shape. So you may be damned if you do, damned if you don't.

[stryker]

:wreath2: Hmmm I have a question,Castrol Mercon V it would be good to use in the change of trans. fluid i'm planing to change the old fluid and fill with these new fluid,if any of the pros here can get out of doubt i will appreciate it
Thank you for the time to read.:banana2:


ATT.STRYKER.:drive:

[RF Overlord]

stryker, Castrol Mercon V is good. I have a philosphical reason for not using Castrol products personally, but there is nothing wrong with their Mercon V...use it without worry.

[stryker]

:cool4: Thank you RFOVERLORD for your quick respond dude.


ATT.STRYKER.:cool:

[jimlam56]

RF:
If you don't mind my asking, what is your philosophical reason?
Jim

[jdando]

Whats the estimate on an "average" tranny flush and do we have servicable filters.

Not sure about "average" but I had a total flush at the dealer and it was $170. Probably not a deal, but it got the dealer warmed up to having it the shop.

jeremy

PS the best part was showing the service advisor why I needed a total flush at 13,xxx miles:eek:. (I picked up a little shudder during torque converter lock up after a track day)

[TripleTransAm]

PS the best part was showing the service advisor why I needed a total flush at 13,xxx miles:eek:. (I picked up a little shudder during torque converter lock up after a track day)

My MM#2 shudders during the first 4th gear application + TCC lockup of the morning when the car has sat outside over a cold night. The first TCC lockup altogether (either in 2nd at 50% or 3rd at 100%) also sometimes shudders if it is a really cold morning. The car just got it's tranny fluid changed this week (will go pick it up this afternoon). I noticed this behaviour a couple of weeks ago at 15000 miles on it. I wonder if that hints at the previous driver's habits.

My MM#1 only began to hint at a shudder when it approached 30000 miles, which was pretty much the mileage I was recommended to do a tranny fluid change anyway. But a great deal of my mileage was highway (both steady cruising and stop/go in traffic) with very little hardship.

[RF Overlord]

If you don't mind my asking, what is your philosophical reason?Jim, Castrol is the company that initiated the whole "is it or isn't it" brouhaha that now leads people to falsely believe the "synthetic" oil they just bought is a true synthetic, rather than the Group III mineral oil it actually is. (True synthetic oils are Group IV and V)

This is not to say that Group III oils are not good...quite the opposite, in fact; they are very good oils, they're just not true synthetics, and since Castrol was the ringleader in this farce, I choose to boycott their products.

[Joe Walsh]

Would that be
Redline D4?

YEP!
Redline D4 ATF...
That's what I've been using since I installed my valve body, deep sump trans pan with magnetic plug and a B&M transmission cooler.
I want my transmission to stay cool and live as long as possible, especially they way I drive!