View Full Version : Anyone ever have a hard time removing a wheel
MadMarauder
11-07-2005, 08:42 AM
Has anyone had a hard time removing a wheel of their Marauder? I have been trying to replace a flat for the last hour, but I cannot get the wheel off the car. :bigcry:
I hate to admit it, but I finally gave up a called roadside assistance.
blackf0rk
11-07-2005, 08:51 AM
The rear wheels can be harder to get off if you don't rotate/remove/move them often (or, if ever) because of the torque; it just cranks them on. And that's even after you have the bolts off.
I usually (if I have to) sit on the ground with my feet facing the tire, and loving persuade the wheel off with some swift kicks to the tire.
I hope no one saw you struggling, then giving up to RSA? :) heheh
MAD-3R's Wife
11-07-2005, 08:52 AM
Has anyone had a hard time removing a wheel of their Marauder? I have been trying to replace a flat for the last hour, but I cannot get the wheel off the car. :bigcry:
I hate to admit it, but I finally gave up a called roadside assistance.
I usually stand on the lug wrench. I find that using my weight as opposed to my arm strength works much better when the lug nuts are put on with an air gun. Next time put the lug wrench on and just stand on it and/or jump on it. That should break the seal and let you continue.
duhtroll
11-07-2005, 08:59 AM
Every fall I have to beat the ever-lovin' crap out of mine to get them loose since I don't rotate them. This is to get the winter wheels on. I get to do that again soon in a couple weeks. Yay.
MadMarauder
11-07-2005, 09:00 AM
The lug nuts come off fine. The wheel just wont come off. I tried kicking it, sitting down and kicking/pulling the wheel. And it is one of the rear wheels.
2003_MM_FYRE49
11-07-2005, 09:07 AM
The lug nuts come off fine. The wheel just wont come off. I tried kicking it, sitting down and kicking/pulling the wheel. And it is one of the rear wheels.
This is a little trick that I learned about a long time ago. Loosen all the lug nuts so that there is a little space between the base of the nut, about two threads showing, and the wheel. CAUTION: do not loosen so that the nuts are at the ends of the studs. With that being said, drive the car in an "S" pattern, Like when NASCAR and INDY drivers scrub their new tires, at about 20 - 25 MPH you should be able to break the wheels loose doing that. Again, make sure that there is only about two lug threads showing between the base of the nut and the wheel. Good luck.
MMM2003
11-07-2005, 09:11 AM
Has anyone had a hard time removing a wheel of their Marauder? I have been trying to replace a flat for the last hour, but I cannot get the wheel off the car. :bigcry:
I hate to admit it, but I finally gave up a called roadside assistance.
Yup. The rear wheels are a PITB. I bought some small crowbars, which fit nicely against the solid part of the brake rotor and the back of the wheel.
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=1668145&PMT4NO=2520858
I always have them with me, in case you can't loosen the nuts and drive it around to get the wheels loosened. I have been using some anti-seize when I remount them, that make sit a little easier to get off.
Good luck!
Peter
chucky
11-07-2005, 09:15 AM
That sucks!
I just had mine off this weekend with only 10K on the car the rears stuck alittle. I would try some WD40, spray it into the holes for the lugs to loosen up any oxidation. the aluminum wheel and the steel studs, lugs, & rotor causes oxidation to form. thats why they tell you in the owners manual to clean it whenever you remove the wheels.
Good luck hope it works
MadMarauder
11-07-2005, 09:27 AM
Thanks for your suggestions, I really appreciate it.
Hopefully the tire will be fixable. I dont want to have to replace a $130 tire (KDW 2 or KDW NT whatever you want to call it) that has only about 8000 miles on it.
I havent been driving very long only about 8 or 9 years, but I've problably racked up a good 200,000 to 300,000 miles. In all that time I have never gotten a flat tire... until this morning. I guess I had it coming to me.
2003_MM_FYRE49
11-07-2005, 09:31 AM
Thanks for your suggestions, I really appreciate it.
Hopefully the tire will be fixable. I dont want to have to replace a $130 tire (KDW 2 or KDW NT whatever you want to call it) that has only about 8000 miles on it.
I havent been driving very long only about 8 or 9 years, but I've problably racked up a good 200,000 to 300,000 miles. In all that time I have never gotten a flat tire... until this morning. I guess I had it coming to me.
Sorry Sir, I did not realize that you had a flat tire so my suggestion to break the wheels loose would do you no good at all.
grampaws
11-07-2005, 10:51 AM
This is a little trick that I learned about a long time ago. Loosen all the lug nuts so that there is a little space between the base of the nut, about two threads showing, and the wheel. CAUTION: do not loosen so that the nuts are at the ends of the studs. With that being said, drive the car in an "S" pattern, Like when NASCAR and INDY drivers scrub their new tires, at about 20 - 25 MPH you should be able to break the wheels loose doing that. Again, make sure that there is only about two lug threads showing between the base of the nut and the wheel. Good luck.
That works, but with a flat tire turning back and forth will scrape the rim
I prefer rolling the car back and forth slowly(10mph) within 5 to 10 ft
and jab the brakes-in a straight line.You hear a definite bang when they come loose.
higher speeds will sheer of the studs.penetrating oil and some swift hits to the tire not the rim help...
hitting or prying on the rim will damage the coating..
Alternate poss..
With both rear wheels up on solid jack stands(traction control off) spin the wheels
in drive then brake then reverse then brake..not as effect as on the ground but
there would be no damage to tire or rim..
to use the prior steering method it would be better to inflate the tire to at least 10 to15psi minimum..
Silicone brake slider lube will help.for later removals and is not as messy as never seize/antiseize..
dwasson
11-07-2005, 10:53 AM
I've had the wheels stick due to electrolytic corrosion between the wheel and hub. I've heard of people buying thin plastic separators that prevent this corrosion. I've never seen one though.
magindat
11-07-2005, 10:57 AM
Apply anti-seize to the back odf the wheel and base (acorn) of the lug. The back of the rim is NOT clearcoated and the acorn obiously wears the clearcoat off the seats. As such, standard electrolysis occurs between the aluminum and steel. Man, I tell ya, the back of the wheel sure sticks to the hub!!!! I had to hit min with a rubber hammer!!!
I put antiseize on the backs of the rims (where they meet the hub, you can see the marks) and lug seats and torqued to 80 ftlbs. Drive 100 miles and re-check torque.
This is worth doing in some spare time to save trouble in emergency!!!
magindat
11-07-2005, 10:58 AM
Plastic separators can cause balance and lug torque issues.
ADE 1000
11-07-2005, 11:55 AM
Had the same problem a few days ago when taking the tire off because I had a flat. Ended up kicking the crap out of the tire to get the wheel off.
I will likely have to go through the same exercise in a month when it comes time to put the snow tires/steel wheels on. I did not have any problems this spring when taking the steel wheels off.
I might add some Mobil 1 grease to the hub/wheel joint next time to prevent this from happening.
fastblackmerc
11-07-2005, 12:27 PM
Getting the rear wheels "unstuck":
Loosen all the lug nuts on the rear wheels about 1/2 turn
Power brake the MM to get the tires to spin a little bit
Tires will now come off
Keeping the rear wheels from sticking:
Clean the mating surface on the rear brake rotors and the MM wheel. I used a ScotchBrite pad and Simple Green or Purple Stuff. Dry off. Apply a light coating of anti-seize to the wheel & rotor mating surface. Everytime I remove the wheels I put a little more anti-seize on the wheel.
I would NEVER put any anti-seize or any other type of "lube" on the lug nuts or studs.
grampaws
11-07-2005, 01:32 PM
That is correct, the pressure on the threads and the taper
holds the nuts on.lube on the nut and threads
can cause them to back of or be over torqued..a thin
layer between the hub and wheel mating surfaces are
only there to stop water getting between the surfaces
and causing the corrosion.
important point that had been overlooked in previous posts!!
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