Trilogy modifications

[shakes_26]

This is for you guys who have already gone down the more power (insert Tim Allen grunt here) road.

I'm starting with the 9psi kit, full exhaust, 3K stall, K&N FIPK.

So at what points did you need to up the BAP settings, increase fuel pump size, etc, etc.

Also anyoen check and see if the Cobra blower pulleys will fit on the Trilogy kit?

I'm just starting my research here, found nothing much here searching, so I woudl appreciate answers from the guys who've actually been down the road.

thanks

[Rick-n-Miami]

Well, you know my mods are similar to yours, but I did add the 3.2" pulley from Lidio. With this, I also had him send me a new chip compensating for the increased air via the pulley and the K&N. With this chip, he had me adjust the BAP to 40.

Beyond all of this, I'm not sure. I personally do not have any intentions of a larger fuel pump or injectors, etc.

[MikesMerc]

These are just generalizations:

Your stock T tune can carry you with either a FIPK or a smaller 3.2 pulley...but not both. So, if you change the pulley at this point, you'll need to change the tune for sure. Lidio can burn you a tune for the FIPK and 3.2 pulley (like he did for rick), but that's a bout as far as it goes. Anything more powerful than that, and he'll push a custom dyno tune.

Your fuel pump with the BAP is good up to the 3.0 pulley, FIPK, and exhaust work. About 420 RWHP or so. Beyond that, and it'll be time for a pump upgrade. So, if you want to go with the 2.8 pulley, you should plan on a fuel pump as well. The focus pump works great in this application.

As far as BAP settings, this is what a dyno tune is for. When you start using the 3.0 or 2.8 pulley, it'll be time for a custom tune and that's where you set the BAP. Every car is different, and depending on the pump duty and injector duty cycles for you specific car, tuning the BAP can vary.

A focus pump with BAP and a custom tune can get you into the 480-500 rwhp range. Beyond that, should you think NOS or anything, plan on 60lb injectors and a 90mm MAF.

That's about all I can offer. Bottom line, anything beyond a simple 3.2 pulley swap and FIPK and you'll be in custom tune category.

[shakes_26]

Appreciate it Mike, thats exactly what I needed to know. I was planning on a custom tune, but the general mods required at each plateau was in question.

thanks

[Smokie]

...Your fuel pump with the BAP is good up to the 3.0 pulley, FIPK, and exhaust work. About 420 RWHP or so. Beyond that, and it'll be time for a pump upgrade.

Mike I know that you were speaking in general terms and I don't mean to pin you down to a specific number. My question is about the the BAP setting and upgrading the fuel pump, you mentioned 420 rwhp as a possible limit for the pump.

My car dynoed on a less than ideal day at 405 rwhp (95*/84% hum) it may possibly be making a little more with a less hostile enviroment and I remain at the 10% setting on the BAP, is your opinion that this is ok?, would it hurt anything to bump it up a little. I feel like I may be on the "edge" sort of speak. thanks, Javier.

[MikesMerc]

Glad I could help.

Other things to consider are optional items that might enhance a combination pushing more power such as a throttle body and/or a replacement MAF.

Some folks have picked up some power with the single blade throttle body. I passed on that myself as you pick up a "twitchy" throttle repsonse off idle with the single balde unit. But, its something to consider.

Also, I ended up going with an 80mm Pro-M meter when I moved passed the 3.2 pulley. I picked up 20rwhp doing that. But, since you have the K&N, I'd skip this option.

That's about it. Nothing else required to up the power ante except what I mentioned.

Of course, you may find that you need to beef up other areas if you pour on the power. The stock lower end gets "iffy" over 450rwhp...though there are more than a few of us doing just fine at more than that. However, none of us can be surprised if it lets go.

Also, you definitely want to look into shift kitting your trans if you go above 420rwhp or so. At those power levels, you'll be over powering the trans and even with the line pressures at max, you'll start to get looong drawn out shifts...and that burns up the bands. A shift kit will prevent that.

Last, watch you axles and rear end at the 450+ rwhp level. If you run sticky enough tires, the rear end and axle are on borrowed time at that power level.

[STLR FN]

Taking notes.....:D

[MikesMerc]

Mike I know that you were speaking in general terms and I don't mean to pin you down to a specific number. My question is about the the BAP setting and upgrading the fuel pump, you mentioned 420 rwhp as a possible limit for the pump.

My car dynoed on a less than ideal day at 405 rwhp (95*/84% hum) it may possibly be making a little more with a less hostile enviroment and I remain at the 10% setting on the BAP, is your opinion that this is ok?, would it hurt anything to bump it up a little. I feel like I may be on the "edge" sort of speak. thanks, Javier.


I'm not an expert at this, but I can tell you what I know from seeing Lidio tune dozens of these cars.

The 420rwhp is just a ballpark....and it is a conservative cut off point. Your stock fuel bump and BAP will get you closer to 440 to 450 rwhp. But, at that point you are on the edge. For example, my car was pushing 475rwhp on the stock pump plus BAP. It never leaned out. However, I was also running CAM II 100 octane for extra safety just in case. But,at those power levels Lidio pushed for me to get the Focus pump which I eventually did.

I know that Lidio is pretty firm about pressing the guys in the mid 400 rwhp range to get the better pump. You are probably just fine in the lower 400 range.

[Smokie]

I know that Lidio is pretty firm about pressing the guys in the mid 400 rwhp range to get the better pump. You are probably just fine in the lower 400 range.

Leaving the BAP set at 1 (10%) sounds good to you? Thanks for the info.

[MikesMerc]

I'd run it a bit higher than that with 405rwhp on tap. I'd put it in the 5-6 range given the power range your using. You can't hurt anything by being on the high side. First, you're only over volting the pump when you are in the boost. Second, if the line pressure is higher, the injector cycle is just reduced a little by the computer to maintain you AFR. I'd go on the conservative side of things a bump that bap setting up.

[Jerry Barnes]

These are just generalizations:

Your stock T tune can carry you with either a FIPK or a smaller 3.2 pulley...but not both. So, if you change the pulley at this point, you'll need to change the tune for sure. Lidio can burn you a tune for the FIPK and 3.2 pulley (like he did for rick), but that's a bout as far as it goes. Anything more powerful than that, and he'll push a custom dyno tune.

Your fuel pump with the BAP is good up to the 3.0 pulley, FIPK, and exhaust work. About 420 RWHP or so. Beyond that, and it'll be time for a pump upgrade. So, if you want to go with the 2.8 pulley, you should plan on a fuel pump as well. The focus pump works great in this application.

As far as BAP settings, this is what a dyno tune is for. When you start using the 3.0 or 2.8 pulley, it'll be time for a custom tune and that's where you set the BAP. Every car is different, and depending on the pump duty and injector duty cycles for you specific car, tuning the BAP can vary.

A focus pump with BAP and a custom tune can get you into the 480-500 rwhp range. Beyond that, should you think NOS or anything, plan on 60lb injectors and a 90mm MAF.

That's about all I can offer. Bottom line, anything beyond a simple 3.2 pulley swap and FIPK and you'll be in custom tune category.

Mike's comments are right on as far as I am concerned. This has been our experience. Based on recent experiences, I would also recommend looking at suspension pieces to keep everything together. Metco Control Arms, Watts Linkage, Drive Shaft Loop and Adco Sway Bars. There seems to be an improvement in traction with some of these peices that should be a big benefit at the track.

Those are my thoughts.

Jerry

[Zack]

Mike's comments are right on as far as I am concerned. This has been our experience. Based on recent experiences, I would also recommend looking at suspension pieces to keep everything together. Metco Control Arms, Watts Linkage, Drive Shaft Loop and Adco Sway Bars. There seems to be an improvement in traction with some of these peices that should be a big benefit at the track.

Those are my thoughts.

Jerry

I suddenly have a lot more respect for you.
Well done. :beer: