Why won't my MM idle?

[Ozz]

I had an interesting experience when I left work tonight. My MM would only start if I gave it gas and would die if I let the RPM's drop below 800. When it would finally start it didn't go through the normal 2000 rpm roar that I am used to...

Here's the recent history:
Sunday: Rinsed off the salt spray at one of those drive in do-it-yourself car washes. Didn't open the hood. Drove home and parked outside. (temperature: 25 degrees).
Sunday Night: 1" of very light textured snow covered car
Monday Morning: Drove car to work as usual. (temperature: 12)
Monday Afternoon: had experience described above. (temperature: 22).

After driving the car for 20 minutes (and simultaneously kicking it in to neutral, left foot braking, and accelerator pedal modulation every time I had to stop), the car started acting normal. The exhaust tone changed also...

What the heck is going on? I have the Superchips tune on it now but it was fine this morning at 12 degrees so I don't think that has anything to do with it.

I wonder if it sucked up some water from the car wash and then it froze in the intake during the day??? Doubtful because why wouldn't it have been messed up this morning?

I also know snow blower carburators will freeze up during ideal weather conditions (very cold, very light textured snow being injested, melt and flash freeze in the carburator bore, etc... It hapened to me last year...) but I have never heard of anything like this on a FI car...

Any suggestions?
THANKS!!!

[spiders]

I don't know but I experienced the same problem today both when I left for work and when I got back to the train station. Never had it happen before, at least on this car. Had a similar problem with the TA once and it was a sensor that went bad...
Am taking mine to the dealership tomorrow.
Spiders

[DEFYANT]

Air Idle Control:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y193/Defyant/IAC.png

[spiders]

OK, for the less than technically inclined, check here and what?

[DEFYANT]

Read this:

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=20700&highlight=air+idle

[spiders]

That helps, thanks for the pointer.

[David Morton]

I agree with Defyant. Your symptoms are without a doubt typical of a bad Idle Air Control valve. (Won't idle but drives fine, then will idle. Soon it won't idle again.)

Better just replace it. Sometimes you can 'work' them by hand in an emergency, push the pindle in and out but generally they just go bad again. Cleaning it does nothing. There's a little electric motor inside it that moves the pindle, adjusting for idle air, and the brushes go bad. It's also a sealed motor and that's why cleaning it has no effect.

While you're at it, clean the throttle body bore with some carb cleaner. It should be dark around where the butterflies sit at idle and buildup of this residue can cause the same idling problem. But this isn't your basic problem because it wouldn't correct itself, as your has. Still it's a good idea to nip a potential problem in the bud while you're there anyways.

[metroplex]

The latest Fords are drive-by-wire, where a motor opens/closes the throttle body. The IAC is no longer used. I don't believe the last 04 MM used drive-by-wire, only the 05-up but I thought I should mention this.

[Ozz]

Thanks for the replies. I will call and get a price quote on an IAC.

Now this morning, half way to work in the 15 degree weather, the heater starts blowing cold air... WTF?

We bought this car so we could do holiday travel comfortably - but now I'm not too happy to take it out of town. I guess we may have to take the Nissan Sentra again... :mad:

[metroplex]

Thanks for the replies. I will call and get a price quote on an IAC.

Now this morning, half way to work in the 15 degree weather, the heater starts blowing cold air... WTF?

We bought this car so we could do holiday travel comfortably - but now I'm not too happy to take it out of town. I guess we may have to take the Nissan Sentra again... :mad:


No offense, but it's a Ford. what did you expect? :help: This is coming from a guy who's family has bought nothing but Fords for the past 30 years. :stupid:
The last straw was when the dealership refused to repaint the black paint on a 2003 E-250 because "it was the wrong color" and "we should have bought any color other than black".

[RF Overlord]

I agree with DEFYANT and David Morton...it's the IAC.

Your heater issue could be a number of things: low coolant level, an air bubble, EATC control head malfunction, blend door malfunction...the EATC unit has a built-in diagnostic test according to the service manual...when I get home tonight I'll post it for you, unless someone beats me to it...


I don't believe the last 04 MM used drive-by-wire, only the 05-up but I thought I should mention this.
No offense, but it's a Ford. what did you expect?

Charlie, how does either of these answers help the original poster?

[Rider90]

My 2004 MM is drive by wire.

[RF Overlord]

Really? There's no throttle cable on your car? I wasn't aware any MMs used drive-by-wire...I stand corrected...

[Rider90]

Really? There's no throttle cable on your car? I wasn't aware any MMs used drive-by-wire...I stand corrected...
Isn't drive by wire when there IS a wire? Hence...drive...by....wire? Now im lost.

[RF Overlord]

My understanding of "drive by wire" is that everything is electronically controlled...in other words, there are no mechanical connections to the things being controlled (in this case, the throttle body).

Pontiac has electro-magnetic steering. I read that someone else is looking at individual actuators at each wheel for the brakes. Put all these things together and you would have true, full, drive by wire.

[Rider90]

So wire as in, non-mechanical wire? I've got it now, thanks.

[David Morton]

Well my 2004 doesn't have drive-by-wire (the accelerator pedal cable goes directly to the throttle plate lever) and it has the IAC right up front just behind the throttle plates, could change it in 5 minutes, including the time spent in parts.

[Ozz]

Yea, the IAC is an easy fix. Dealer wants $67 for it... I think I am going to wait until the car does it one more time before I change it. Once is an anomaly while twice is a trend as far as I'm concerned... Same for the heater.

My Superchips tuner reads codes... would it read an IAC trouble code in this case?

Thanks!

[Ricka11]

Ozz:

About 4 weeks ago my MM just died after coming around a curve and making a full stop. Started right up though. I took her to the dealership and they told me the IAC was bad and was replaced under warranty.

[BK_GrandMarquis]

The term "drive by wire" means that it's electronically controlled. Wires from electronics. The old way is through a throttle "cable".

[TripleTransAm]

My favorite tech from my dealership once told me that water splashing up into the coil area of the cam covers can seep in, especially in the area towards the firewall (where the harness comes out on either bank). He told me not to trust the factory seal and always apply a little sealant myself whenever I'd remove the coil covers to access plugs or whatever, back where the little access relief is located.

Maybe you got some water in there? Especially plausible considering your change in exhaust note.

[Breadfan]

Unless you know the IAC is really bad try cleaning before replacing - unless the new versions are different I've repaired numberous IACs by taking them apart and throuroughly cleaning the carbon buildup. (By take apart I mean partially.)

Use a really nice strong carb cleaner and an old toothbrush. Many times they get stuck from carbon buildup.

They are cleanable and in some cases that can be the fix.

That being said, Im' not saying it isn't broken, but before shelling out $50 for a new one there is a chance for a cheap fix.

[CBT]

My MM is controlled by a Livewire...ME.:D

[metroplex]

The term "drive by wire" means that it's electronically controlled. Wires from electronics. The old way is through a throttle "cable".

The 05-up Panthers use drive-by-wire as well as all the latest cars. Throttle cables and IACs are a thing of the past. I sat in on an SAE conference that dealt with the new drive-by-wire systems and the delay from closed throttle to open throttle is within .1 seconds.

Anyhow, the easiest way to tell if your car is drive-by-wire is if you have an IAC. If there's an IAC there, the throttle is the regular mechanical cable. If there is no IAC, and there is a big a$$ motor next to the throttle body, it's a drive-by-wire system. Your accelerator pedal controls a potentiometer that sends the signal to an electric motor connected to the TB plate. This in turn controls idle air flow as well as driver input.

[Marauderjack]

Ozz....

Go to www.rockauto.com

They have the IAC Ford part # CX1781 for $43.79!!!!:beer:

I have bought a bunch of Ford parts from them for 30% to 50% less than the dealer.....Good folks!!:bows:

Good Luck!!:bandit:

Marauderjack:burnout:

[FordNut]

The 05-up Panthers use drive-by-wire as well as all the latest cars. Throttle cables and IACs are a thing of the past. I sat in on an SAE conference that dealt with the new drive-by-wire systems and the delay from closed throttle to open throttle is within .1 seconds.

My new Explorer uses it and it stinks. Lousy pedal feel. Funky throttle response. Instead of just opening the throttle when you punch it, the computer thinks about it awhile then decides whether to open the throttle, downshift, or just continue to do whatever it wants. That's while cruising, but from a dead stop, it's jerky like a sticky throttle cable and is difficult to take off smoothly... Progress??? BS

[metroplex]

My new Explorer uses it and it stinks. Lousy pedal feel. Funky throttle response. Instead of just opening the throttle when you punch it, the computer thinks about it awhile then decides whether to open the throttle, downshift, or just continue to do whatever it wants. That's while cruising, but from a dead stop, it's jerky like a sticky throttle cable and is difficult to take off smoothly... Progress??? BS

I never said I liked it either. The new Hemi DCX sedans use drive by wire as well and there is are a lot of complaints about funky throttle response. Supposedly there has been some progress in refining it. However, it WILL be the future like it or not. Electric steering, electric brakes, electric valve actuation (electromechanical solenoids), electric water pumps (which most of you already have), etc... all tied into OBD-III which can be remotely accessed by law enforcement and the manufacturer. Enjoy!

+1 on the Rockauto. They have MOTORCRAFT parts but not Ford parts. Most are the same, but some Ford parts like the intake manifold gaskets, are not available at Rockauto unless there is a Motorcraft equivalent or a Chinese manufacturer equivalent.

[Ozz]

I will add Rock Auto to my 'favorites'... thanks for the tip!

I used my Superchips tuner to pull the codes last night and there were none... I guess whatever was wrong did not register with the computer.

[Marauderjack]

My IAC didn't throw a code but it idled pretty bad and stalled every now and then!!:mad2:

I tried to clean it but as David Morton stated it is sealed and it can't be cleaned!!:rolleyes:

New one fixed me up!!:beer:

Marauderjack:burnout:

[DEFYANT]

Ozz....

Go to www.rockauto.com (http://www.rockauto.com)

They have the IAC Ford part # CX1781 for $43.79!!!!:beer:

I have bought a bunch of Ford parts from them for 30% to 50% less than the dealer.....Good folks!!:bows:

Good Luck!!:bandit:

Marauderjack:burnout:

I like what I see here. Thanks

I have the driveshaft from my F250 at the shop being rebuilt. I will cost me $250. The price here is about $240.

If I did not need this *now* I would have used them.

[metroplex]

use the discount code:
340320237486 for 5% off, expires jan 31 06

[David Morton]

Rockauto is going into my favorites too.

Motorcraft parts are actually very good. When I worked for Chevoldsmopontibuick we used to note how the only good fan clutches were Motorcraft. Every other brand including the supposedly venerable Canadian aftermarket one that I won't mention were stiff out of the box, stone cold!

I'm like, Hey! It's only supposed to pull when it gets hot, idiots!

[metroplex]

Motorcraft parts are good but you can't get Ford parts at Rockauto. Ford uses Motorcraft (whom uses many different suppliers) on their cars, but there are Ford-only parts like the intake manifold, which you cannot get at non-Ford parts dealers. Does this make sense?

[ahess77]

The 05-up Panthers use drive-by-wire as well as all the latest cars. Throttle cables and IACs are a thing of the past. I sat in on an SAE conference that dealt with the new drive-by-wire systems and the delay from closed throttle to open throttle is within .1 seconds.

Drive-by-wire throttle input is relatively "safe" from the OEM's liability point-of-view, brake-by-wire is not but it will eventually be adopted too. The big advantage to the OEM of electronic controlled throttle body input is not cost, it's fuel mileage.

When you don't have a direct linkage to the throttle body, the computer can accelerate how it wants to, not how you want to. So expect the latest model vehicles to accelerate less and less with each new model year in order to improve fuel mileage. So your big 2006 5.4L F150 can spin the tires and roar from 0 to 60 in 15s, but your 2016 5.4L F150 will go from 0 to 60 in 30 seconds. Then, when you don't mind that performance, your 2026 2.5L F150 will go from 0 to 60 in 45 seconds. This will be the trend.

[RF Overlord]

So your big 2006 5.4L F150 can spin the tires and roar from 0 to 60 in 15s, but your 2016 5.4L F150 will go from 0 to 60 in 30 seconds. Then, when you don't mind that performance, your 2026 2.5L F150 will go from 0 to 60 in 45 seconds. This will be the trend.But won't the good folks at SCT be able to fix that for us?

[metroplex]

use the discount code:
340320237486 for 5% off, expires jan 31 06


Thank you very much.
You're welcome!

[Sully008]

But won't the good folks at SCT be able to fix that for us?

I know Lidio has adjusted the throttle response on the new 'stangs. Apparently the throttle plates are a little slow in opening at WOT, thus the laggy feel. My brother has an '05 'stang GT w/Lidio's programming, and it runs like a bat outta hell! The throttle response is greatly improved.

[metroplex]

But won't the good folks at SCT be able to fix that for us?

What, sell overpriced Chinese tuners that have the build quality of a Pinto? I'm only complaining because:
The latest X-Calibrator 2's coming from SCT are split open on one side. This is considered NORMAL by SCT. It's not so bad if it were only $100, but it was nearly $400. The SCT dealers are frustrated with this as well. I had to exchange it and a few other people said that is how they're all coming from the supplier. After using it for awhile, the flexing will tear the warranty sticker on the X-Cal 2. The device itself is great, but the build quality PALES in comparison to the 9100.