Oil Change Issues

[Shora]

First, I want to begin by saying that I know less (much less) than most of you about performing my own maintenance work. However, I used to do some basic work on my previous car (Ford Explorer.) I used to change my own oil, radiator coolant, breaks/ rotors etc.
I visit this site almost every day when I have some spare time and I have received some great info to my questions via search or simply asking.
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<FONT face="Times New Roman"><FONT size=3>To make a long story short, I knew that changing the oil would be a PITA because of the location of the filter (and from what I read) but can you believe that it took me over 30 minutes just getting it out? I have three different tools for removing a filter and I could not get a decent grip with either of them.
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<FONT face="Times New Roman"><FONT size=3>I know that some have relocated the filter. I do not want to do it since it might void my ESP. Is their a trick to removing the filter or a special tool for removing it?
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<FONT face="Times New Roman"><FONT size=3>Also, when I brought the car off the stands and ran it for a while I noticed a huge amount of liquid coming from the exhaust tips. It dripped into huge puddles. I decided to floor the gas pedal to see what is happening and noticed that it shot water (or what seemed to be water) for about 4 feet. I did this while in park and the engine was shaking like never before. (I must note that I have never put the pedal to the metal while the car was in park before. It would only go as high as 5,000 RPM and shake.)
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<FONT face="Times New Roman"><FONT size=3>What is the best tool for removing our oil filter?
<FONT face="Times New Roman"><FONT size=3>Is the engine shaking and cutting off at 5,000 RPM normal?
<FONT face="Times New Roman"><FONT size=3>What is all of this liquid in my exhaust system?

<FONT face="Times New Roman"><FONT size=3>Car is still stock. :(

<FONT face="Times New Roman"><FONT size=3>Any help would be appreciated.
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<FONT face="Times New Roman"><FONT size=3>P.S.
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<FONT face="Times New Roman"><FONT size=3>I have since allowed the car to cool for 4 hours and there are no leaks and oil level is full. I always use Motorcraft products.

[carfixer]

The filter can be a bit of a pain without a lift. The best way to find the right tool is to get a filter, go to the tool section and select an oil filter wrench that fits the filter. Be sure to get the kind that has hinge at the end of the handle.

Water coming out of the tailpipes is normal condensation. It will burn off in a couple of miles.

The shaking and cutting off at 5K RPM in park is the normal operation of the rev limiter. It is there to protect the engine from being over-revved.

[fastblackmerc]

You also might try K&N filters that have a "nut" on the top of the filter that you can use to tighten or remove or get a metal oil filter "cap" wrench(?). It fits over the top of the filter and a 3/8" ratchet goes in the end.

[RF Overlord]

^^^what carfixer said^^^ (BTW, congrats Claude!)

I use one of those cup wrenches that fits over the knurled end of the filter and allows you to use a 3/8" rachet. Got it at AutoZone for $3...

Another handy gadget is the oil deflector that comes on the '05 CVs...I got mine from Ray (The Dealer)...Part # 5W1Z 6N634AA...it really does a nice job keeping the oil from splattering all over the undercarriage.

No offence intended here, but WHY on earth would you ever go WOT with the car in neutral (or park)??? That cannot be good for it... :eek:

[Shora]

^^^No offence intended here, but WHY on earth would you ever go WOT with the car in neutral (or park)??? That cannot be good for it... :eek:

I know, hence I had the car for yrs. and mentioned that I have never done that before. I was just so angry already from the most complicated oil change of me life, saw actual puddles of water forming behind the car, and only did it for a second or two.

Again, you are right, it cannot be good but we are human and make mistakes.

Again, thanks for the info.

[cyclopsram]

A general rule of thumb is that there is a gallon of water produced for every gallon of gas burned.. With the right atmospheric and ambient conditions, the water (steam) will condense in the cats, mufflers and resonators and pipes...especially cold idle.... and be expelled in the form of water from pretty Stainless Tips on your MM. Not a problem....in fact lots of OEM mufflers are made with drain holes in em...just big enough to let water ooze out when they are parked, not running. :nono: Be kind to your Marauder... RAM

[Shora]

The filter can be a bit of a pain without a lift. The best way to find the right tool is to get a filter, go to the tool section and select an oil filter wrench that fits the filter. Be sure to get the kind that has hinge at the end of the handle.

Water coming out of the tailpipes is normal condensation. It will burn off in a couple of miles.

The shaking and cutting off at 5K RPM in park is the normal operation of the rev limiter. It is there to protect the engine from being over-revved.

I am talking about actual puddles of water and not merely a few drops. This is really normal? Believe you me, if you say yes the subject ends.

Brand new job and still taking the time to help those who are less mechanically inclined. I appreciate it my friend.

I think that we are going to have to do something about this "I don't smoke cigars" thing you have.

We shall celebrate your new job at the picnic in Feb. and cigars will be on me (offer is good for all who show up btw).

[jonroe]

Getting the filter off and out is a bit of a challenge. The tool I use is the proper cup type wrench for the 820S filter that you use the 3/8 drive ratchet on. In my case the ratchet won't actually engage the filter cup wrench because it hits the top of the filter before snapping into place. So, I engage the square drive enough to be able to loosen the filter. Then I hand turn off and let the oil run into the pan using the 05 Crown Vic oil deflector. THEN you have to very carefully wind the filter out and around all the power steering hoses. It's quite doable once you find the path! But I still manage to drop oil that doesn't get caught by the oil deflector and still get a mess once in awhile. Give it a try. Once you do it successfully, it will be much easier the next time.

Jon

[fastblackmerc]

still get a mess once in awhile.
Keep a can of brake clean handy to cleanup the mess.

[Breadfan]

Getting the filter off should only be tough the first time YOU do it. Getting it out of the frame will always be a pain and a dirty operation, but getting it loose off the engine will not be.

When putting the new one on, lubricate the rubber seal with some fresh oil. Just put a bit on your finger and get the rubber seal coated with oil.

When putting it back on, spin it until it stops spinning freely. Then go no more than 1/4-1/2 a turn.

When it comes time to remove it again you will not need a wrench. And, you will not have any leaks.

I've seen filters put on so tights a wrench has to be used and the actual canister of the oil filter is DENTED once it's finally spun loose. People are putting these things on way to tight!

[fastblackmerc]

I've seen oil filers so tight that you had to drive a screwdriver thru it to get it off. I also have a huge pair of channel locks that will fit around a filter, can't tell you how many times I've had to use that too!

[roadhawk]

What's the best oil brand to use in the Marauder? I was told that the Castrol GTX brand of oil's pretty good for the engine, although I should have trusted my instinct and stuck with the good ol' Pennzoil, which burns a lot slower than others...

[fastblackmerc]

I use Mobile1. Asking what oil to use will get you as amny different responses as there are memebers here....

[Breadfan]

Mobil 1 and Amsoil are two great synthetics. In a modern high performance engine I would definitely use a synthetic.

[Petrograde]

One more trick...

turn the wheels all the way to the right,... it'll give you a little more room.

[RF Overlord]

What's the best oil brand to use in the Marauder? I was told that the Castrol GTX brand of oil's pretty good for the engineIf your car is still under warranty, then Motorcraft 5W-20 is an excellent choice. In fact, it's an excellent choice even if you're past warranty. Castrol GTX is a decent-quality conventional oil...nothing special about it.

If you want to go the synthetic route, then Mobil 1 (not Mobile, that's a city in Alabama), AMSOIL, or Pennzoil Platinum would also be top notch. They are, along with Royal Purple, Red Line and German Castrol, the only TRUE synthetic oils on the market, aside from a few hard-to-find and/or very expensive boutique oils.

No matter which oil you choose, Motorcraft filters are the best value for money...other good choices are WIX and NAPA Gold, which are the same thing. Mobil 1 and K&N are also very high quality, but 3X the cost without being 3X better.

[jgc61sr2002]

What RF said.:D

[RoyLPita]

I have been able to use the typical oil filter strap to get remove the filter on my MM. Of course, the lift does help alot.

BTW, I believe that turning the wheels to the left will give you more room.

[1stMerc]

Getting the filter off should only be tough the first time YOU do it. Getting it out of the frame will always be a pain and a dirty operation, but getting it loose off the engine will not be.

When putting the new one on, lubricate the rubber seal with some fresh oil. Just put a bit on your finger and get the rubber seal coated with oil.

When putting it back on, spin it until it stops spinning freely. Then go no more than 1/4-1/2 a turn.

When it comes time to remove it again you will not need a wrench. And, you will not have any leaks.

I've seen filters put on so tights a wrench has to be used and the actual canister of the oil filter is DENTED once it's finally spun loose. People are putting these things on way to tight!

<<<<<What he said.>>>>>>>

[rayjay]

Mobil 1 or Royal Purple. 5k changes with MotorCraft filters. and yes, its is a royal PITA to get the filter out of there. I have no trouble loosening it with a cup wrench, but getting it out is another story... Never had oil stains in my driveway until I bought the MM. :mad: now I spread newspaper to catch the mess.

[MENINBLK]

...I noticed a huge amount of liquid coming from the exhaust tips. It dripped into huge puddles. I decided to floor the gas pedal to see what is happening and noticed that it shot water (or what seemed to be water) for about 4 feet. ...

I have seen and wondered about this also.

Driving around I have taken notice to what comes out of the exhaust
of NYC cabs and NYC Police vehicles.
They STREAM water out of the exhaust pipes when they take off
from a traffic light.

After seeing this more times than I have counted,
I have concluded that this is normal for an 8 cyl engine.

[roadhawk]

Cool, thanks, guys. I've got the Castrol waiting to be poured in, and I've gotten some input from a buddy of mine regarding that oil. I still prefer Pennzoil since it does actually perform better. Tried it the first time in my old Monte Carlo, and boy, did that car take off like a rocket! Mobil1 and a few other brands have been used in that car, and it got sluggish after a while. Other than that, I'll switch to synthetic for the next oil change. I'm gonna compare and see what's actually better for the Marauder. Again, thanks for the input, especially the handy tip of turning the wheel all the way to the right for more access to the filter.

[RR|Suki]

The filter can be a bit of a pain without a lift. The best way to find the right tool is to get a filter, go to the tool section and select an oil filter wrench that fits the filter. Be sure to get the kind that has hinge at the end of the handle.

Water coming out of the tailpipes is normal condensation. It will burn off in a couple of miles.

The shaking and cutting off at 5K RPM in park is the normal operation of the rev limiter. It is there to protect the engine from being over-revved.

Stock MM rev limit is at 5000?