Looking for 2 cents on gear swap

[Go Mifuni]

Ok, I believe I finally found a reputable place to do my gear swap in the spring. Their prices sound reasonable to me but I thought I would ask those around here who have already experianced the procedure for their advice.
The Place is New England Dyno (http://www.nedyno.com/Default.htm). They quoted me $300 for the gear swap (I already have the gears), $85-$100 for the bearing kit, and if my axles are scored like some others have found, it will be another $50 plus parts. Is this reasonable?

[fastblackmerc]

Sounds bout right.... My gear swap was $250.00 but I bought the bearings, fluid, beer (after the install :D ), etc.

[RoyLPita]

What bearings are you planning on replacing? The only one that I would consider replacing would be the inner pinion bearing. As for the shafts, if they are bad, go for the whole kit that includes 2 shafts, axle bearings, seals, and 3 bottles of synthetic fluid. Buy a bottle or 2 of friction modifier, too.

[gdmjoe]

RoyLPita ... As for the shafts, if they are bad, go for the whole kit that includes 2 shafts, axle bearings, seals, and 3 bottles of synthetic fluid. Buy a bottle or 2 of friction modifier, too.
FYI ... The kit from FoMoCo includes a bottle of friction modifier.

[Go Mifuni]

What bearings are you planning on replacing? The only one that I would consider replacing would be the inner pinion bearing. As for the shafts, if they are bad, go for the whole kit that includes 2 shafts, axle bearings, seals, and 3 bottles of synthetic fluid. Buy a bottle or 2 of friction modifier, too.
Isn't there a "crush" seal or bearing?

[RoyLPita]

Isn't there a "crush" seal or bearing?

A crush "collar" should come with your new gears. If not, it is available elsewhere.

[RoyLPita]

FYI ... The kit from FoMoCo includes a bottle of friction modifier.

That's good to know. It also comes with a tag that says to use 75-140 synthetic only.

[gdmjoe]

RoyLPita ... It also comes with a tag that says to use 75-140 synthetic only.
Yes sir it does. *Too bad it can't be easily attached when you have the axle girdle; keep mine in the glovebox until I get some stainless steel studs (and allen-head bolts) to replace the crappy ones provided by Ford Racing Performance Parts ... they had begun to corrode after only a month (and that was in sunny NC).

[SergntMac]

Yes, you install gears estimate sounds about par for the course. Good luck.

[RF Overlord]

Mike, be on the lookout for a PM from me...

[SergntMac]

Yes sir it does. *Too bad it can't be easily attached when you have the axle girdle; keep mine in the glovebox until I get some stainless steel studs (and allen-head bolts) to replace the crappy ones provided by Ford Racing Performance Parts ... they had begun to corrode after only a month (and that was in sunny NC). Hey, Joe...Why not wire tie the tag to the axle tube? Least that way, it'll get seen by a wrench.

Sorry to hear of your disappointment with the allen head cover bolts, mine came with the cover, black anodized, and no signs of corrosion since June of 2003. Is your cover older, or newer? Maybe something got swapped at your source?

[bagpiper]

I know the guy personally he does good work,Just dynoed my friends SRT-10 pickup there a few weeks ago he has done some mods to it dynoed 475 hp and 505 tq not bad for a truck.He has also seen my Marauder and likes the car.I also did the stage1 with 4:10 gears,you will like the shifts

[RF Overlord]

There you go! ^^^ Can't get a better referral than that!

I knew Dean, the previous owner...they seemed like great people when I had the Blackbird tuned there by Jerry W back in May of '03, but I don't know the new people. Sounds like they're continuing to provide good service...nice to know. Thanks, bagpiper!

BTW, it's about freakin' time, Mike!!!!! :lol:

[Paul T. Casey]

Mike, not to act like the stone crusher I am, but what does this mean? The DR tune in say '09? Just kidding, have fun and we'll see it at NED this year.

Paul

[GreekGod]

Whenever you get into the pinion preload setting-use a solid/shimmed spacer setup. You can then remove/replace the pinion seal and/or the u-joint flange without having to check pinion preload. It makes it a "bolt-on" operation and should be stronger than the crush spacer.

[GreekGod]

<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="100%"><TBODY><TR><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #a9a9a9 1px solid" vAlign=top><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD class=header-02 style="PADDING-TOP: 5px" vAlign=top>8" SOLID PINION SPACER

</TD></TR><TR><TD class=std-text-small>M-4662-A </TD></TR><TR><TD class=std-text-small style="PADDING-BOTTOM: 5px">Print This Page (http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_detailspf.asp?PartKeyFiel d=5961)</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR><TR><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #a9a9a9 1px solid" vAlign=top><TABLE cellSpacing=2 cellPadding=2 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD class=std-text-small style="BORDER-RIGHT: #a9a9a9 1px solid" vAlign=center align=middle width="50%">http://www.fordracingparts.com/images/part/tiny/M-4662-A.jpg
click the image to see a larger picture
</TD><TD vAlign=top width="50%"><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD colSpan=2>http://www.fordracingparts.com/IMAGES/PART/PRICINGHEADER.GIF</TD></TR><TR><TD class=std-text-small style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-BOTTOM: 5px">Suggested Retail</TD><TD class=std-text-small align=right>$9.95</TD></TR><TR><TD class=std-text-small style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Sold In Units Of</TD><TD class=std-text-small align=right>Each (1)</TD></TR><TR><TD align=middle colSpan=2>
../images/WhereToBuy/WTB_background2.jpg (http://www.fordracingparts.com/wheretobuy/main.asp)
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR><TR><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #a9a9a9 1px solid"><TABLE class=ProductDetailsTable cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD width="20%">http://www.fordracingparts.com/images/Part/ProductDetailsHeader.gif</TD></TR><TR><TD class=std-text-small style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Package Dimensions:</TD><TD class=std-text-small>3.50H x 1.75W x 3.50D </TD></TR><TR><TD class=std-text-small style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Weight:</TD><TD class=std-text-small>1.00# </TD></TR><TR><TD class=std-text-small style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Catalog Page:</TD><TD class=std-text-small vAlign=top>139</TD></TR><TR><TD class=std-text-small style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Instruction Sheet:</TD><TD class=std-text-small vAlign=top>N/A</TD></TR><TR><TD>

</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR><TR><TD><TABLE class=SpecificationsTable cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD class=TechNotesTableCell1 width="100%">http://www.fordracingparts.com/images/Part/TechNotesHeader.gif</TD></TR><TR><TD class=catalogTxtText vAlign=top><TABLE id=catalogTxtTable cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="100%" VALIGN="top"><TBODY><TR><TD class=std-text-large vAlign=top>

M-4662-A (http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField= 5961)
Eliminates the crush sleeve for extreme conditions
Kit includes solid pinion spacer and shims
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

[CRUZTAKER]

The price quoted is good. :up:

[Go Mifuni]

Whenever you get into the pinion preload setting-use a solid/shimmed spacer setup. You can then remove/replace the pinion seal and/or the u-joint flange without having to check pinion preload. It makes it a "bolt-on" operation and should be stronger than the crush spacer.
Thanks. I'll do that.

And Paul....you're killin' me.:D