Tune Up Questions

[04MRADR]

:cool: I now have 33,000 miles on the 04 Marauder and love it more each day. I enjoy reading the various threads and other things on the web site and find everyone's comments really enjoyable. I particularly appreciate members opinions on practical sense in taking care of the car versus what the factory maintenance manual syas. With this in mind, when do members get a tune up? The manual says 100,000 as it does for anti freeze changes but realistically what are members doing. Also, I'm keeping the car stock since I love it as is so what brand name spark plugs are you guys using and by the way, where the heck are they located. I cannot visibly see them when I look under the hood. Also, where is the PCV valve? Besides plugs, PCV, filters is there anything else you would change during a tune up?

[jimlam56]

The plugs are located under the cover in the middle of the valve cover.
I changed my plugs at about 20 k, along with the coil connectors.
My old plugs were worn.
I change my oil every 4k, and plan on a trannie fluid change at about 30 k, along with a radiator flush.

[fastblackmerc]

:cool: I now have 33,000 miles on the 04 Marauder and love it more each day. I enjoy reading the various threads and other things on the web site and find everyone's comments really enjoyable. I particularly appreciate members opinions on practical sense in taking care of the car versus what the factory maintenance manual syas. With this in mind, when do members get a tune up? The manual says 100,000 as it does for anti freeze changes but realistically what are members doing. Also, I'm keeping the car stock since I love it as is so what brand name spark plugs are you guys using and by the way, where the heck are they located. I cannot visibly see them when I look under the hood. Also, where is the PCV valve? Besides plugs, PCV, filters is there anything else you would change during a tune up?
Spark Plug Change - I change mine when I see a drop off in mileage, poor performance or I have to remove the coil covers for any reason. Some use the Denseo plugs (very expensive) or you could go with Morotcraft or NGK's.

See the covers on top of the valve covers? The ones with the 2 10mm bolts? These are the coil covers, remove the bolts, remove the covers, pull the coils off the plugs.

I recommend antifreeze change every 2 years, trans fluid change every 15,000 or 30,000 miles, PCV valve in in the valve cover near the power brake booster. You might want to get a K&N drop in airfilter and cleaning / oiling kit. Check the belts and hoses whenever your under the hood.

[04MRADR]

What kind of plugs do you use and I was wondering why the coil connectors too? What's the cost for both and do you install or have it done?

[fastblackmerc]

Try doing a seach on GMS or coil connectors. I posted some pictures of the original coil spring (looks like an oversized ball point pen spring) and the Granatelli Motor Sports replacement (these are heavy duty wire). Wes from Inovative Interceptors might still have some, there was a group buy for $120.00 w/ free shipping. Check with him. Easy mod to do especially if your going to change pugs at the same time. I went with the NGK plugs, I also went 1 or 2 heat ranges colder along with a colder thermostat. To use the colder plugs & stat you should get a "tune". In fact I'd recommend getting a tune from Lidio or Dennis because the stock tune doesn't exploit the full potential of the MM drivetrain even if it is stock.

[SergntMac]

You can use any spark plug you favor. Motorcraft, Denso, NGK and so on. What we're changing is the heat range. When you get a custom tune, a cooler plug adds some burn efficiency to the process. However, without a tune, it may affect performance in a negative way. Ditto with the 180 thermostat, just bringing engine temps down a bit to help control detonation under WOT. But without a tune to take advantage of that, a waste of money and effort.

A tune, either by chip or hand held flash programmer, + plugs, + stat = Stage I performance profile.

The coil connectors are from Granatelli MS and available through Wes Chain at a great "group buy " price. 120 bucks a set I think. The worked so well for me, I'm thinking they should become part of a Stage 1 build up. Afterall, you're pulling the plugs, may as well add the new boots and connectors.

You could do this yourself, even if you have never been under the hood before. Everything is easy to get to, no broken knuckles. If you have a friend who's mechanically inclined, ask him to show you how to do this, because a self installed mod is much more enjoyable than not. DIY really enhanses the owner's experience.

[rayjay]

What kind of plugs do you use and I was wondering why the coil connectors too? What's the cost for both and do you install or have it done?

If you are staying stock, stay with the OEM MotorCraft plugs, about $35. The coil connectors are a no brainer when you see what Ford used to connect the coil on plug system. Very simple install. Follow what the Sarge said.

[Warpath]

...Also, I'm keeping the car stock since I love it as is...

Changing plugs on a stock engine is a waste of money. They're designed to last 100,000 miles. Stick to the owners manual for maintenance and you'll be fine.

[Dragcity]

I have to agree w/Warpath. I do inspect and clean my plugs periodically. Plugs can tell you a lot about how the engine is running. Inspect, clean and re-gap @ 20k or so.

I had a 90 Town Car and never changed the coolant. Added some when I replaced the heater core, but never changed it out. 120k and no unexpected problems. Got rid of it in 2004. Because the entire cooling systrem is aluminum, there is no corrosion like years ago. As such, no sediment build-up.

Engine oil, still every 3 to 4K. Tranny and rear end, as scheduled.

All above is much different if you race, drive really hard all the time, live in a challenging climate.

Have fun...

[Warpath]

You have to be careful that the coolant pH doesn't get too far out of hand with aluminum components. Too acidic or basic and it will eat the aluminum. I don't know how to check pH of the coolant.

[MSR7878]

I learned the hard way that you cannot "blow off" the radiator flush and fill. I just replaced a radiator (108k miles) because it was totally clogged with corrosion products. Aluminum does not rust but it does form a corrosion layer which can flake off and clog a thermostat or radiator. Expensive oversight!