Junkyard Hunt for 8.8"

[Joe Walsh]

I am planning to have a bulletproof 8.8" rear built for my Marauder.
I need an 8.8" 'core' for the build-up so that I can keep driving my Marauder until the new rear is ready to bolt in.
Can anyone tell me what year(s) of Grand Marquis and Crown Vics have the same track width, brakes, air ride suspension AND Watts link as our Marauders?
Thanks for the help.
Joe

[FordNut]

I am planning to have a bulletproof 8.8" rear built for my Marauder.
I need an 8.8" 'core' for the build-up so that I can keep driving my Marauder until the new rear is ready to bolt in.
Can anyone tell me what year(s) of Grand Marquis and Crown Vics have the same track width, brakes, air ride suspension AND Watts link as our Marauders?
Thanks for the help.
Joe
You're reading my mind... I've been looking for a wrecked/parts car for awhile, one of the things I want it for is a donor rear end. Good luck. If you find one, maybe we can use your old one as a "floater".

BTW, I already got my 31 spline Auburn ECTED unit, planning to order axles from Dennis probably next week.

[Bradley G]

My '02 GMQ has the same air ride/ watts link as the Marauder.
I don't know about track width.

[BK_GrandMarquis]

I am planning to have a bulletproof 8.8" rear built for my Marauder.
I need an 8.8" 'core' for the build-up so that I can keep driving my Marauder until the new rear is ready to bolt in.
Can anyone tell me what year(s) of Grand Marquis and Crown Vics have the same track width, brakes, air ride suspension AND Watts link as our Marauders?
Thanks for the help.
Joe

I think you can only use the rear off of '03+ cars. I asked the dealer about the rear brake system on the '03+ and my '01 and he said they looked completely different. The mounting surface is not the same between the years. The shock mounts are different too before 2003.

Doesn't DR have 31 spline axles for a 8.8 rear. I think it comes from a Towncar. Not sure though.

[Rider90]

I would not think Ford modified the track of our Marauders, just for our Marauders. Sounds too costly, something they would not do.

[ex00p71]

I think the rear out of any 03 and up Crown Vic/Grand Marquis would fit. In 03 they moved the shocks outside the frame rails which contributed to the widened track.

[looking97233]

There was a thread that touched on this some time ago.

Look for a rear end from a limo 03'+

If I remember correctly, it already has 31-spline axles, and larger brakes too.


Here is the thread, it looks like nobody ever found out if the entire limo axle housing is a easy swap.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=15085&highlight=limo+rear

If this would work, from my reading you get:

A stronger housing
31 spline axles
13" rear brakes.

Rod.

[RF Overlord]

^^^what ex00p71 said^^^

[O's Fan Rich]

I've been wondering if a company like Currie, or another axle supplier would be able to duplicate our axles in a 9" Ford configuration. They make direct bolt ins for other makes and models, even the Generals cars, so why not?

[Mike Poore]

What about Lincoln Town Car?

Isn't that the parts bin they raided to come up with our setup?

Might be easier to find. :dunno:

[RoyLPita]

Try www.car-part.com and see what wll work. I know that 2003+ CV and GM work but don't know about TC.

[SergntMac]

This is a nice train of thought, creative, I like it. But IMHO, it's overkill too.

I've heard him tell the story 3x now, in person, and it's the same story every time. According to Steve Babcock, our rear suspension, housing, brakes, ect., are the Town Car limo bits. His words, not mine.

IMHO, I don't see a great difference between these parts anyway. Prolly the easiest thing you could do (and the cheapest too), would be to find a wrecked '03 or later police car, and buy the back half. It'll get you everything you'll need to work on the bench over winter.

Overhauling the rear end in my #1 car was my last project before putting the car up for the winter. My Auburn 28 spline diff was 2 yrs old and beginning to show some slip, and I developed (again) some pinion whine. So, I ripped it all out and overhauled it with Auburn Pro diff, 31 spline, Moser axles from Dennis, Ford Racing bearing kit, and added some welding around the tubes and shock mounts. All this backed by fresh bushings in the Zack and Mac control arms, and off I go. About 1500 bucks total, and my rear end is stronger than it needs to be.

I'd like to explore a beefier tranny mount, there's got to be a lot of stress on the stock bits when the tires hook. It looks like to next weak link to me, IMHO.

Just my .02C, gents. Carry On...

[Zack]

Everything you need to do to bulletproof our Diff can be done in 1 days work.
You are wasting your money by purchasing another assembly.

[TooManyFords]

If anyone finds a narrower axle, let me know. I'm getting ready to back-half mine and will need a shortened axle in about 3 weeks. I'm looking to cut about 6 inches off each side. The mounts for the air suspension and 4-links can be welded on, it just needs to be a narrow 8.8. Maybe a mustang?

If anyone does talk to Currie, let me know.

Thanks

John

[O's Fan Rich]

This is a nice train of thought, creative, I like it. But IMHO, it's overkill too.

I've heard him tell the story 3x now, in person, and it's the same story every time. According to Steve Babcock, our rear suspension, housing, brakes, ect., are the Town Car limo bits. His words, not mine.

IMHO, I don't see a great difference between these parts anyway. Prolly the easiest thing you could do (and the cheapest too), would be to find a wrecked '03 or later police car, and buy the back half. It'll get you everything you'll need to work on the bench over winter.

Overhauling the rear end in my #1 car was my last project before putting the car up for the winter. My Auburn 28 spline diff was 2 yrs old and beginning to show some slip, and I developed (again) some pinion whine. So, I ripped it all out and overhauled it with Auburn Pro diff, 31 spline, Moser axles from Dennis, Ford Racing bearing kit, and added some welding around the tubes and shock mounts. All this backed by fresh bushings in the Zack and Mac control arms, and off I go. About 1500 bucks total, and my rear end is stronger than it needs to be.

I'd like to explore a beefier tranny mount, there's got to be a lot of stress on the stock bits when the tires hook. It looks like to next weak link to me, IMHO.

Just my .02C, gents. Carry On...
Yeah, then you'll be breaking tranny cases.....:banana2:

[SergntMac]

Yeah, then you'll be breaking tranny cases.....:banana2:Yep...Proll y. But, isn't it what we do?

[O's Fan Rich]

Yep...Prolly. But, isn't it what we do?


"We" is a relative term.... or French, either way I give up!:D

[JACook]

I'd like to explore a beefier tranny mount, there's got to be a lot of stress on the stock bits when the tires hook. It looks like to next weak link to me, IMHO.
Not sure why the tranny mount would care. It's job is to support the rear of the engine/transmission assembly,
both vertically and horizontally, but not torsionally. In other words, it doesn't matter how hard your engine is
twisting the driveline, the tranny mount isn't under much torsional stress. That's the job of the engine mounts.
Now, depending on driveline angles, it's possible you're putting _some_ additional stress on the tranny mount,
but it still won't be torsional stress. And our MMs don't run all that much driveline angle anyways.

[Breadfan]

Not sure why the tranny mount would care. It's job is to support the rear of the engine/transmission assembly,
both vertically and horizontally, but not torsionally. In other words, it doesn't matter how hard your engine is
twisting the driveline, the tranny mount isn't under much torsional stress. That's the job of the engine mounts.
Now, depending on driveline angles, it's possible you're putting _some_ additional stress on the tranny mount,
but it still won't be torsional stress. And our MMs don't run all that much driveline angle anyways.

That all depends - if you have a poly trans mount and rubber engine mounts the engine will twist but the trans will not. That can cause case cracks.

Best thing to do is match the engine and trans mount compounds. Poly in back, poly up front.

[Joe Walsh]

Everything you need to do to bulletproof our Diff can be done in 1 days work.
You are wasting your money by purchasing another assembly.

Not if I'm shipping the rear axle to Drive Train Specialists or Mark Williams Enterprises...
Both shops set the rear axle in a jig to assure that the axle tubes are straight, then they weld the tubes to the center section.
You can have them saw off the OEM tube ends and weld on 9" rear tube ends with big axle bearings.
Next up is your choice of gear ratio plus a 31 spline differential along with heavy-duty 31 spline axles, billet main saddles and ARP studs.
They finish off with a braced aluminum rear cover with preload screws.

We are talking about two weeks with their labor and shipping both ways.

[JACook]

That all depends - if you have a poly trans mount and rubber engine mounts the engine will twist but the trans will not. That can cause case cracks.

Best thing to do is match the engine and trans mount compounds. Poly in back, poly up front.
Agreed, you should never combine a poly or solid trans mount with rubber engine mounts. But a rubber trans mount
combined with solid or poly engine mounts will not cause any problems at all. Or, to take it to the extreme, if you have
both a front and mid engine plate for mounting, you can eliminate the trans mount altogether. (Not that I'd ever
suggest doing such a thing to a MM...)

[Zack]

Not if I'm shipping the rear axle to Drive Train Specialists or Mark Williams Enterprises...
Both shops set the rear axle in a jig to assure that the axle tubes are straight, then they weld the tubes to the center section.
You can have them saw off the OEM tube ends and weld on 9" rear tube ends with big axle bearings.
Next up is your choice of gear ratio plus a 31 spline differential along with heavy-duty 31 spline axles, billet main saddles and ARP studs.
They finish off with a braced aluminum rear cover with preload screws.

We are talking about two weeks with their labor and shipping both ways.

Agreed, but we have Marauders running close to the 10's with Over 700 at the crank on Nitto Tires and an axle upgrade without any problems to speak of. Unless you are shooting for the stars with power or just have the cash, I still think you are wasting your money.

[TooManyFords]

Not if I'm shipping the rear axle to Drive Train Specialists or Mark Williams Enterprises...
Both shops set the rear axle in a jig to assure that the axle tubes are straight, then they weld the tubes to the center section.
You can have them saw off the OEM tube ends and weld on 9" rear tube ends with big axle bearings.
Next up is your choice of gear ratio plus a 31 spline differential along with heavy-duty 31 spline axles, billet main saddles and ARP studs.
They finish off with a braced aluminum rear cover with preload screws.

We are talking about two weeks with their labor and shipping both ways.

Estimated $$?

[SergntMac]

I'm curious about the 9" tube ends, what's the benefit? How does this (if at all) affect other systems, like emergency brake, traction control and so on?

[Warpath]

...According to Steve Babcock, our rear suspension, housing, brakes, ect., are the Town Car limo bits. His words, not mine...

I also mentioned that the MM suspension is the base car except for unique MM items. In the rear, the lower control arm, air spring, and Watts link are the same on all Panther vehicles. The rear upper is unique for limo. Its a billet looking piece. The rear upper on MMs is the same as the base car. Police gets a similar rear upper but with different bushings.

Here's the link to the thread I posted showing a picture of the limo rear upper.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=13753&highlight=limo

[Joe Walsh]

Estimated $$?

Depends on what options you ask for...$1,200 all the way up to $1,800 for a 'full boogie' rear.

It may be overkill for an automatic trans car, but I believe in building it right and spending the money once.

I'm debating about the 9" tube ends....
They have much larger bearings and the axles are retained by the bearing assemblies so you don't need the 'C' clips in the differential.
I'm trying to confirm if everything will bolt up to the 9" tube ends, including the ABS sensors.
I also need to talk to Todd @ TCE to see how his 13" rear brake kit attaches to the rear end.

[Warpath]

Depends on what options you ask for...$1,200 all the way up to $1,800 for a 'full boogie' rear...

It usually only takes about $40 worth of beer to turn my rear into a full boogie rear.:banana: :lol:

[TooManyFords]

Did he ^^ really say he had "boogies" in his rear?? :eek:

lol

john

[hitchhiker]

Did he ^^ really say he had "boogies" in his rear?? :eek:

lol

john

Dat's Nasty!

:lol: