Took the plunge: New forged motor on the way!

[MikesMerc]

Well, the deal is done. I wrapped up my series of discussions with Lidio today and I'll be getting a new motor installed in the next two weeks. Nothing is wrong with my original motor, I just decided to take the plunge now and get the build I want before anything bad happens. Its cheaper that way as you often loose the block, oil pan, and crank when you hatch a motor (sometimes other peices are damaged like the starter, bell housing, or much worse goes if you ingest hard parts into the blower). At the power levels I'm pushing, I knew I was on borrowed time. So Lidio and I have worked out a good plan to get a better motor, but at a good price.

No Super-Duper BIG MONEY motor here. Just a common sense 4.6 mod motor build up based on what Lidio and the other mod motor guys have been doing successfully for years.

Specs are:
Ford 4.6 Aluminum block (96-98 TEKSID block)
Stock crank
Forged Eagle rods
Forged Diamond pistons
Upgraded bearings and fasteners
Heads mildly bowl ported and valves cleaned up
Stock cams with better springs/shims
Shortblock is balanced and blueprinted

I passed on the steel crank....it would be overkill for my power level and saved me almost $1,000. The short block as spec'd is good up to 800hp. That's plenty. Another good thing is that Lidio is pricing this up very affordably for me, and doing things before the motor has puked really helps cost wise (as I can use my undamaged block, crank, and heads for core credit).

Anyway, along with the motor comes some other goodies I've been collecting the last few months. Lidio's crew will be installing the complete Baer brake kit (with matching rear rotors), the Metco upper and lower control arms, watts link, and driveshaft loop, and some engine bay bling items like custom cam covers, braided lines, etc.

I'm also going to be installing a larger heat exchanger for the Trilogy intercooling loop and I'll be having Lidio go through the tranny and make sure everything looks okay. Anything looking worn will be replaced and upgraded.

After I get the car back in a few weeks, and I have some time to rack up some break in miles, I'll be taking it back to Lidio for some fresh tunes. With the much more reliable block I'll raise the bar just a little power wise. We're thinking a full 100 shot of NOS in addition to an all around more aggressive tune. 575 rwhp, and over 600 ft lbs of rwtq will be the target range.

Hopefully, if all goes well, everything will be in place for the spring season. I've done a lot of homework and I hope it pays off. The result should be a very balanced car. I'm looking forward to getting to the track as well as just hanging out on Woodward again this summer.

[fastblackmerc]

Sounds great.... I'll be doing the same when my extended warranty runs out... Good luck, keep us posted.

[martyo]

Sounds good Mike!

Keep us posted.

[Rick-n-Miami]

Congrats on the upgrades! Posts like this cost me money.... :D

[sailsmen]

Congrats!

Enquiring minds would like a report on the current engine when she is broken down.

[DEFYANT]

Congrats!

Enquiring minds would like a report on the current engine when she is broken down.

^^ what he said + pics!!^^

Thanks for taking this on. I plan on doing something very similar. Congrats on not feeling presure to build the biggest and stongest. I like the idea of building what you need and feel is a strong reliable engine.

I look forward to the results.

[bigslim]

I knew you were up to something my friend. Glad to hear that you are doing this. At the level you are running now I think that it is the best thing for you to do.

[MI2QWK4U]

Thats the way to do it Mike. Pay attention to him folks, the one thing I know for a fact is Mike knows his *****. I have learned a lot from Mike in the last couple of years. We discussed the engine build recently, and since he is pushing a little bit harder with the NOS, he is making the right move. Unfortuately, I wont be joining him in the engine build like I wish I was. I feel that with a good tune from Lidio, using good gas, and not hitting it with NOS, the motor will live. Watch for Mike to be pushing that new motor hard! Mike is definitely the one to watch. Good luck Mike....

[mpearce]

Wow...that sounds awesome Mike! Every mod Ive ever seen on your car has been crisp and clean. I'm sure this new forged motor will turn out the same way as everything else on your car...Very Impressive.

As long as you can hook up at the track...very scary 1/4 times await you!

Nice Job,

-Mat

[Rider90]

That's awesome Mike! looking forward to pictures!

[Jerry Barnes]

Mike,

Congratulations! From the other mods you have been making, this makes good sense. See me about the heat exchanger. Has the drive shaft been balanced? Did you go to the Moser axles? Talk to Claude and Chuck about the differentials they are using and get their opinions. I have several mods I am working on for #1, give me a call and I will share some ideas. What about Metco wats linkage and control arms? I am testing some new Addco Sway bars, let me know if you need any at a good price.

Welcome to the deep end of the pool!

Good luck my friend!! Oh yes, I agree with what Dave said, you are very knowledgeable!!!

Jerry

[bigslim]

I smell a 10 second MM coming.........;)

[Smokie]

Mike, I congratulate you on being able to follow your dream. Your decision not to wait until you blow up your block; I applaud. You may not remember how I feel about this, but we discussed it a while ago....I understand.:)


I hope everything turns out to your satisfaction....or beyond. Don't forget pictures, pictures, pictures.:beer:

[MikesMerc]

Enquiring minds would like a report on the current engine when she is broken down.

I will do my best to see that this happens. The long block will be broken down after the new motor goes in, so I should have an opportunity to get some pics. I'm curious as well as to how the engine has held up under the conditions it has seen. I'll make sure I talk to Lidio about this.




Congrats on not feeling presure to build the biggest and stongest. I like the idea of building what you need and feel is a strong reliable engine.

I look forward to the results.

Actually this was indeed some very difficult decision making for me. Part of me wanted to do a cast iron block with a steel crank good for 1200hp. Another part of me wanted to do a stroker motor. Yet another part said "hey, get a steel crank, iron block, and stroke it! woo-woo!"

All of those ideas are great....if money is no object. No doubt I'd really like to have a top of the line motor. But, for me, a common mortal with a wife and 3 kids, looking for a balanced car, I needed to go with a bang for the buck motor with serious results. Not only that, but there is something very satisfying about getting 90% of the wish list capabilities at 60% of the price. And, make no mistake, the motor as spec'd will indeed be a hearty beast.


Thanks to everyone for their support well wishes. Dave, Daryl, and Jerry know I've been toiling with these decisions since late last summer. I'm glad to finally get the project off the ground. I'll be sure to update everyone as things progress.

[MikesMerc]

Mike,

Congratulations! From the other mods you have been making, this makes good sense. See me about the heat exchanger. Has the drive shaft been balanced? Did you go to the Moser axles? Talk to Claude and Chuck about the differentials they are using and get their opinions. I have several mods I am working on for #1, give me a call and I will share some ideas. What about Metco wats linkage and control arms? I am testing some new Addco Sway bars, let me know if you need any at a good price.

Jerry

Jerry,

The rear end and axles I covered last year and are pretty much bullet proof. The Baer Brakes and Metco control arms, watts link, and loop are all going in next week as well thanks to you and my friends at Trilogy!!

Let me know how the Addco testing goes...I'm definitely interested.

It's great to see Trilogy becoming a "one stop shop" for all this custom Marauder stuff. Blower packages, suspension packages, brake packages, oh-my!

I'll be giving you a call to discuss the full poop!!

[fastblackmerc]

I am testing some new Addco Sway bars, let me know if you need any at a good price.
Addco has new sway bars?

[jstevens]

Mike,
You make me sick. No, just kidding. I'll be interested as well in how your current motor has held up. It'll be just as great to see how she runs at Milan.

This is gonna be a great year. Both at the track and Woodward.

[STLR FN]

Mike,
Did you pursue the option of getting a steel crank from Kar Kraft? I know they have new take out 8 bolt cranks from the Cobras for $395 and brand new ones for $695. They are 8 bolt cranks though and ours are 6 bolt IIRC.

[Marauderjack]

Mike,

Are you lowering the compression so you can up the boost on it!!:confused:

Good Luck!!:beer:

Marauderjack:D

[MikesMerc]

Mike,
Did you pursue the option of getting a steel crank from Kar Kraft? I know they have new take out 8 bolt cranks from the Cobras for $395 and brand new ones for $695. They are 8 bolt cranks though and ours are 6 bolt IIRC.

Yep, we have the 6 bolt like the automatic Mach's do.

I looked around quite a bit but didn't consider a used steel crank though. By pricing up an new 8 bolt steel crank and a new 8 bolt flexplate it came to about $900 plus tax. Again, when you're into a project like this its easy to say "hey, what the hell, I'll do it." But, when you do that with all the pieces you end up way over budget. Not to mention you loose the "balance". For example, if I chose a steel crank, my next weak link is the block. I probably wouldn't be able to fully capitalize on the strength of my steel crank in the aluminum block.

So, the idea is to find where the best "cut -off" point is where you've maximized reliability for the dollars spent. The think most mod motor experts agree on is that the weak link in the 4.6 mod motors is the pistons...then the rods. These tend to break apart under heavy abuse. Replace these weak points and your reliability goes way up in terms of investment by bringing "balance" to the motor....ie all the links in the chain (block, rods, pistons, and crank) are relatively well matched.

Hope that makes some sense:lol:

[MikesMerc]

Mike,

Are you lowering the compression so you can up the boost on it!


Nope. I beleive that would be mistake in building up the small displacement 281 for a street car IMO.

Lowering compression does help by allowing more boost (and power) to be made at the top end, but it kills low end torque in these motors. And torque is something 281 cubes is short on. I've seen some successful applications of lower compression on the 4.6 mod motors, but most of these were track cars that don't care much about lost power down low and/or run insane boost levels. It takes ALOT more boost to recover from dropped compression as well. Even with the low end gains with my roots blower, there is no way I'd lower the compression on this motor.

This is just my opinion though. Other's opinions vary:)

[Bradley G]

Congrats Mike!
Enjoy your new power!
Thanks for all the info!
Here's to seeing you and your car run this season.:banana2:

[Marauderjack]

Mike.....

You're probably right about the torque down low!! :up:

Funny that everyone I tell about the blower and 10.5:1 CR cringes and says GOOD LUCK!!:argue:

I've watched the timing with my Scan Gauge and at cruise it is 45* and under power fall to 12*-14*....Just basackwards from old vacuum/mechanical distributor systems!!:confused:

All I know is this thing is STRONG!!!!:cool5: :cheer: :run:

Marauderjack:burn:

[STLR FN]

Yep, we have the 6 bolt like the automatic Mach's do.

I looked around quite a bit but didn't consider a used steel crank though. By pricing up an new 8 bolt steel crank and a new 8 bolt flexplate it came to about $900 plus tax. Again, when you're into a project like this its easy to say "hey, what the hell, I'll do it." But, when you do that with all the pieces you end up way over budget. Not to mention you loose the "balance". For example, if I chose a steel crank, my next weak link is the block. I probably wouldn't be able to fully capitalize on the strength of my steel crank in the aluminum block.

So, the idea is to find where the best "cut -off" point is where you've maximized reliability for the dollars spent. The think most mod motor experts agree on is that the weak link in the 4.6 mod motors is the pistons...then the rods. These tend to break apart under heavy abuse. Replace these weak points and your reliability goes way up in terms of investment by bringing "balance" to the motor....ie all the links in the chain (block, rods, pistons, and crank) are relatively well matched.

Hope that makes some sense:lol:

Yep makes all the sense in the world. I forgot the '03/'04 Cobra's use a Romeo iron block. Either way I want to see this new incarnation of your beast run down the 1320.

[sailsmen]

Mustangs and FF tried the lower comp/ higher boost in a 4.6 vs an identical 4.6 and the higher comp generated more power.

I think the lower boost came about before we had onboard comoputers that could adj to different paramters.

[MikesMerc]

Funny that everyone I tell about the blower and 10.5:1 CR cringes and says GOOD LUCK!!:argue:


Its all in the tune:)

[Smokie]

I know it's been a while, but did you consider changing oil pump gears to billet from the stock powder gears???
If you decided against it can you tell us why??? Thanks, Javier.

[MikesMerc]

The oil pump is new oem unit. I simply felt an upgrade here was not needed as they rarely go bad in high performance 4.6 mod motors applications (if your making powerer levels a stock aluminum block can handle). Needed the budget spent elsewhere.

[BillyGman]

Funny that everyone I tell about the blower and 10.5:1 CR cringes and says GOOD LUCK!!:argue:

All I know is this thing is STRONG!!!!:cool5: :cheer: :run:

Marauderjack:burn: Yes you're correct. two years ago when I told some of the guys on the SVTperformance board that my Marauder was S/ced, some of them blasted me saying that my engine would NOT last on such a high compression ratio (actually the stock CR is 10.0:1), and I told them that they were all wrong, and that Lidio knows his stuff when it comes to the 4.6L S/Ced engine, and that he says "it's all in the engine tune".

One so called self-proclaimed "expert" told me that my engine wouldn't last, and here it is two years past, 62 races, and 33,000 supercharged miles later, and the thing still runs great with 9.5 PSI of boost. The theory that a 10.0:1 CR is too much for S/Cing is old hat, and is basically outdated information. That theory applies to some applications yes (such as 13+ PSI boost pressures and/or shorter duration camshafts) but as a blanket statement being applied to all S/Ced applications, that's just not true, and people who make that claim are uninformed and therefore don't know what they're talking about.

BTW Mike, good luck with your upgrades!!!