For you guys who've run slicks:

[BillyGman]

Does it matter whether you run inner tubes with slicks or not? If it does matter, what are the pros and cons of using inner tubes as well as any trade-offs? And for those of you who've used slicks, did you use inner tubes? It's my understanding that with most slicks, innertubes are optional. But please correct me if I'm wrong on that.

[AzMarauder]

Does it matter whether you run inner tubes with slicks or not? If it does matter, what are the pros and cons of using inner tubes as well as any trade-offs? And for those of you who've used slicks, did you use inner tubes? It's my understanding that with most slicks, innertubes are optional. But please correct me if I'm wrong on that.

I am not sure tubes are optional.... and I know you want a definitive answer.

I run slicks on my Fairlane.
I use inner tubes.
I have screws also holding the bead to the rim.

Even IF you could run them without tubes why would you want to?
With a slick you are bringing the tire pressures down very low.... then hitting 'em with gobs of horsepower at the same time expecting them to stick!

The danger there is without screws (sometimes even with screws) you can spin the rim inside the slick.... if you don't have tubes guess what happens to what little air you have when you spin the rim!

[BillyGman]

I hear ya.....and that's precisely why I was posing the question. On some website that sells slicks, I could've swore I saw some footnotes which stated that inner tubes were optional with a couple of the slicks that they sell, and that had me wondering. I was surprised to see that, because I too always thought that you need to use the inner tubes with all slicks. :confused:

...anyway, thanks for your reply.

[glassman99]

Most slicks I have seen are 15". Will a 15" wheel work on our cars?

[MikesMerc]

Most of the tires I've seen advertised with tubes "optional" have been bias ply street going "cheater" slicks like the MT ET Streets. I've run those without tubes just fine. Many folks do. Although they have a flexible sidewall for a good wrinkle, they are quite the same as the true slick.

If you plan on running true slicks I'd suggest two things:

1. Run tubes. If you don't you'll end up with rim leak when running low low PSI. If you run your slicks with enough pressure that you don't need tubes...then you don't need slicks. A simple cheater slick would be enough.

Most guys who try to run without tubes are just trying to save money and weight. (And, yes, even a little weight in the tires is bad for the pure racers so they like to skimp here...that's bad).

2. If your making any kind of real power, run your slicks screwed....especially if you have tubes. If you don't you spin the rim inside the tire on launch. This is dangerous. Furthermore, if you are running a tube like you are suppose to, then you can easily spin the tube along with the tire in the rim which will rip your tube valve stem out...not good.

So, you have two choices. Tubes and screws which is safe and smart. Or no screws (and therefore no tubes) which is cheaper but less safe.

[BillyGman]

AAAAHHHH....okay, that explains it Mike. Thankyou. ;) I've also heard some guys claim that until you get into the 9's on the 1320, then you don't need the rim screws. Have you ever heard that???

[MikesMerc]

AAAAHHHH....okay, that explains it Mike. Thankyou. ;) I've also heard some guys claim that until you get into the 9's on the 1320, then you don't need the rim screws. Have you ever heard that???

Yep....but that's not really true. Slower cars can spin the rim inside the tire with enough hook, an aggressive enough launch, and low enough PSI in the tire.

My supercharged 5.0 fox body was a high 10 second car. I use to put a line of shoe polish accross my rim and tire (from the center out, like you'd cut a pie). I ran most of the summer without noticing anything. But, one time, after a good hook and launch I could see that my rim spun inside my tire about 3 inches!!! I saw that one time and that was enough for me. I had my slicks screwed.

To be honest, yes, you can get away with not running tubes and screws. For the casual drag strip visit this is likely just fine. You'll never have a problem on the street. And if you keep your pressures high enough at the track, rim leaks and rim spin are not a problem. But, if you plan on really hitting it hard at the track, I'd suggest tubes and screws to retain pressure and stop rim spin.

[BillyGman]

Okay Mike. Based on what you're telling me, I agree. That sounds like good advice. Thankyou.

[Dragcity]

I always opt for screws and tubes. I had a 12 second streeter and had to run low psi and would never sacrafice a wreck for the price of 40 screws.

In the old days, we just did it right the first time, and all the time. There is no drawback to screwing.

[BillyGman]

Thanks Joe. Engaging in this Chevelle project is new ground for me, and I'm learning alot things. This tire thing is just one of them. I just learned a little bit about the need to get the car to a place that will put it on scales to weigh all four corners in order to pre-load the suspension correctly.

This chassis stuff in particular is foreign language to me, but so far, I'm finding it intriguing to say the least. Hopefully it will prove to be helpful as well. Time will tell.

[rayjay]

There is no drawback to screwing.

Its all fun until you have a "blow out" :lol: :lol: :lol: