Alternator Problems

[Badger]

Wanted to start a separate thread on alternator problems.
Who has hade problems?
What mods have you done?
How many miles.

Charlie has been providing me with some outstanding help with my dilema.

Just picked up a 03 Aviator alternator. There is an extra plug on this model and the attachments are different as well. There are two plug modules. One module has a three pin connector just like the MM wiring harness.
The other plug has a single conductor. There is a post terminal for the main power wire.

Is this going to work????

[DEFYANT]

The Mach 1 alternator had only one plug. It looked identical to the MM's w/o the clutch pulley. If you have extra plugs on this part, you may not want to use it.

Try to get the one for an 03 Mach 1.

If anyone out there can help, chime in.

[Badger]

I've got to the point that I'm seriouly entertaining hiring a roll back to get me the *&^%$$%^ out of here. I feel like I'm just bumbling around in the dark trying to get this fixed down here. Either the tool isn't on hand or commuincations get mixed up. It would be worth a few hundred to get the heck outta here and sleep in my own bed. I'm starting to stress.

[DEFYANT]

I just got off the phone with Brandon. The Aviator alternator is no good. He is flat bedding the car home.

Has anyone used an alternator from a different Ford vehicle on the Marauder?

[ckadiddle]

No alternator problems so far. 28000ish miles. Mods in sig.

[David Morton]

Why do you want to use a different alternator? If money is the issue, it's been my experience that trying to save a dime on something like this will cost you a dollar in the long run.

Typically, alternators that go bad quickly do so because the battery isn't good, either not charged up or a bad cell. This overworks the alternator causing it to overheat. I've also seen plenty of guys change good alternators when the battery was the problem.

I've had no problems with mine. Passing 19K soon.

[fastblackmerc]

No alternator problems @ 31K.

[2003 MIB]

I'm sorry that I'm late to the thread but I've got a new take-off Marauder alternator in my shed. Zero miles. I'd let it go for $50 + actual shipping- want it?

[Badger]

the alternator freshly removed from the car this PM.
Slept most of Saturday after a friend hooked me up with an expensive yet very worthwhile tow out of Bristol.
Because of the races they wanted $259 per night with a minimum three day stay. Every hotel and B&B in the 50 miles range was booked.
No alternator would be available special order or not for two days. That would have landed me on a Sunday when most shops are closed. Also would have landed me with a $750 hotel bill and would still have to spend Monday fixing the car.

Dave: I wasn't looking at other alternators for price. I would have paid $250 for an alternator that would have worked on the MM on Thursday or Friday. Anything to get me out of there before the race fans came in and jacked the prices way up.
I have a Crown Vic with over 110k miles on it. No alternator problems.

[fastblackmerc]

I'm sorry that I'm late to the thread but I've got a new take-off Marauder alternator in my shed. Zero miles. I'd let it go for $50 + actual shipping- want it?
PM sent........

[FordNut]

Has anyone used an alternator from a different Ford vehicle on the Marauder?
I had a '98 Cobra alternator on mine for a little bit. It charged but wasn't controllable by the PCM so it caused an error. It may be possible to get one of those alternators and swap the regulators out in a pinch, assuming the reguator isn't the problem with the original alternator.

[TripleTransAm]

At 40k miles, my alternator pulley showed an awesome looseness that eventually required it's replacement along with my tensioner. The tensioner was making all the noise, but the alternator shaft was WAY sloppy.

[Rider90]

At 40k miles, my alternator pulley showed an awesome looseness that eventually required it's replacement along with my tensioner. The tensioner was making all the noise, but the alternator shaft was WAY sloppy.
Can you describe the noise? define sloppy? Thanks

[RoNiN77]

Have an 03 MM w/34K on it. No probs yet. (knock on wood) Does anyone know what that loud noise is right before you start your car. Almost like a vibrating of some sort. I've heard it on Grand Marquis as well....but it doesn't happen on our police interceptors.

[TripleTransAm]

Can you describe the noise? define sloppy? Thanks


It all started with an intermittent loud "belt-like" squeal from under the hood. By intermittent, I mean it would sometimes do it and do it for a while, and other trips it would be silent the whole way.

Because the dealer tech was useless in his diagnosis ("it's the belt that needs replacing, for sure!") I snooped around with a stethoscope for the longest time and narrowed it down to the tensioner. I removed the belt to have a closer look at the tensioner's idlers and decided to check the accessories to make sure there wasn't any noise there that might have been telegraphing.

The tensioner didn't feel all that bad (and I certainly couldn't spin it fast enough to get it to squeal by hand) but when checking the other pulleys, I noted that the alternator pulley had some bad side-to-side play in the shaft and didn't sound very 'clean' when manually spun (the bushings were toast?). Next in terms of bad looseness was either the A/C compressor or the power steering, I can't remember which... not as bad as the alternator but still sloppy as hell. I took it to a non-Ford mechanic (a guy who restores older F-bodies) and he agreed with my impressions.

One more trip back to the same dealer who "couldn't reproduce it" when it was doing it all the time, and the mechanic came out and sprayed belt dressing on the belt with a smug look on his face. The smug look disappeared when I returned 15 seconds later with the squeal once again. Alternator and tensioner were replaced, along with the lower steering shaft (unrelated, but I remember wondering if they checked out my power steering pump or not).

The belt, BTW, was absolutely fine and (as I noticed this evening) is actually in better shape than the belt on my 1/2-the-mileage second MM, which is INCREDIBLY cracked on the ribbed side!

[Rider90]

It all started with an intermittent loud "belt-like" squeal from under the hood. By intermittent, I mean it would sometimes do it and do it for a while, and other trips it would be silent the whole way.

Because the dealer tech was useless in his diagnosis ("it's the belt that needs replacing, for sure!") I snooped around with a stethoscope for the longest time and narrowed it down to the tensioner. I removed the belt to have a closer look at the tensioner's idlers and decided to check the accessories to make sure there wasn't any noise there that might have been telegraphing.

The tensioner didn't feel all that bad (and I certainly couldn't spin it fast enough to get it to squeal by hand) but when checking the other pulleys, I noted that the alternator pulley had some bad side-to-side play in the shaft and didn't sound very 'clean' when manually spun (the bushings were toast?). Next in terms of bad looseness was either the A/C compressor or the power steering, I can't remember which... not as bad as the alternator but still sloppy as hell. I took it to a non-Ford mechanic (a guy who restores older F-bodies) and he agreed with my impressions.

One more trip back to the same dealer who "couldn't reproduce it" when it was doing it all the time, and the mechanic came out and sprayed belt dressing on the belt with a smug look on his face. The smug look disappeared when I returned 15 seconds later with the squeal once again. Alternator and tensioner were replaced, along with the lower steering shaft (unrelated, but I remember wondering if they checked out my power steering pump or not).

The belt, BTW, was absolutely fine and (as I noticed this evening) is actually in better shape than the belt on my 1/2-the-mileage second MM, which is INCREDIBLY cracked on the ribbed side!

Thanks for the info!

[Petrograde]

I had my alternator replaced at 800 miles. The second one worked well enough.

I think I was beginning to have belt tensioner problems on my old Marauder. I was used to the lights dimming under load,.. then they started dimming at idle. :confused: I had the occational belt squeal, and once in a while the power steering would act up. Meaning: the steering wheel would get really tight and hard to turn for a second.

I haven't noticed any charging issues with my new Aviator. :)

[TripleTransAm]

I try very hard NOT to leave an MM idling (the horrendous fuel consumption at idle) but I had no choice except to leave it running for about 15-20 minutes in a parking lot sometime in January because my family was in the car while I ran in to purchase something at a "circuit-city" type of place. When I came back to the car (MM#2), I passed in front of the car and noted something like a faint version of what I had to endure all summer of 2005 with MM#1. I popped the hood and had a listen and it seemed to be coming from that same area.

Needless to say I was a bit peeved (the noise showed up about 19000 miles early, as compared to MM#1) but since then I have not heard the noise ever again. "Luckily" I'll know exactly how to address it when it does get worse.

[fastblackmerc]

Have an 03 MM w/34K on it. No probs yet. (knock on wood) Does anyone know what that loud noise is right before you start your car. Almost like a vibrating of some sort. I've heard it on Grand Marquis as well....but it doesn't happen on our police interceptors.
Could be the air pump for the rear air bags.

[DEFYANT]

Could be the air pump for the rear air bags.

I agree.

...

[Badger]

I'm charging my battery for a poweron test tonight. Got the alternator installed last night. Battery is still down to 12.6 VDC.

[TripleTransAm]

Battery is still down to 12.6 VDC.

Unless I'm missing something, this is pretty much what to expect from a fully charged battery.

[Badger]

WTF!!!!!!!
Runs fine for a few minutes then alternator light kicks on!!
WTF WTF WTF!!!!!
Measured alternator right after install. 14 VDV.
Now the gauge is reading 12.1VDC! WTF!

[TripleTransAm]

Is this a proper replacement alternator or the Aviator unit? If it's not the proper unit, you probably have the same problem FordNut had.

What was your initial problem that made you realize you had alternator problems?

[Badger]

This is a Mercury Marauder alternator.
Just checked out the battery.
12.6VDC between battery posts with the engine off.
12.3VDC between the positive post of the alternator to the negative post with the engine running.
It's as if the alternator field has been turned off.
It's not generating any power.


What was your initial problem that made you realize you had alternator problems?<!-- / message --><!-- sig -->
Besides seeing the alternator light turn on about 10 miles South of Bristol VA...being stuck in Bristol VA with a dead battery and about $1000 poorer???
Now it's in my driveway with the red alterantor light turning on using local streets....after new alternator was installed.

[Badger]

0.0 milliohms between the positive alternator post and the positive battery terminal.
Don't think it's the splice. Nor do the readings indicate that's the problem.

[Badger]

Does anyone have the wiring diagram for the alternator wiring?
Power lead goes to the Engine Compartment Fuse Box.
There is a three wire plug that goes to the alternator.
Where do these leads go to???

[TripleTransAm]

It's as if the alternator field has been turned off.
It's not generating any power.

Sounds like that's what's happening. The PCM controls the alternator charging function. Is there a bent pin in the connector? Could the PCM actually have gone south and given you the false impression it was your alternator that died? Or perhaps the alternator died and took the PCM with it?

[Badger]

The only problem with the alt theory going south is that this is my second alternator.

[Joe Walsh]

Is the PCM somehow reading a 'WOT' signal and turning off the charging function??

BTW: I will be at my brother's house in Rockville wednesday evening for a beer/bench racing session with friends.
If you want to meet me there, I can bring my complete '03 MM Service Manual for your use.
Joe

[FordNut]

WTF!!!!!!!
Runs fine for a few minutes then alternator light kicks on!!
WTF WTF WTF!!!!!
Measured alternator right after install. 14 VDV.
Now the gauge is reading 12.1VDC! WTF!
Sounds like what mine did with the Cobra alternator. Are you absolutely positive it is a Marauder alternator, from a Ford/Mercury dealer? If it came from another parts place they may have cross-referenced and given you the wrong one.

[Badger]

I'm bringing her into the shop this afternoon.
The wife ordered it on-line. I'll have to check for part number this afternoon.
It's so sad having the beast just sitting there....while I have to use a van to commute.

[Badger]

Shop just called.They tested the wires running to/from the "new" alternator.

The PCM has an error code of P0622 which indicates there is a field circuit fault.

I have a new (going on Number 3) alternator coming. We will install that one and see what it does.
The current alternator is not having it's field turned on. Don't know if any of the programming for the field activation was altered by the chip for the S/C?

[Breadfan]

Shop just called.They tested the wires running to/from the "new" alternator.

The PCM has an error code of P0622 which indicates there is a field circuit fault.

I have a new (going on Number 3) alternator coming. We will install that one and see what it does.
The current alternator is not having it's field turned on. Don't know if any of the programming for the field activation was altered by the chip for the S/C?

I don't see how the new chip would cause this unless it or the PCM has been damaged somehow. I don't see why it would cause a code by default in a working condition.

Is there a fuseable link anywhere in the circuit that could have died?

How are the joints in your extension harness?

I'll try to think of some more...

[Badger]

We're onto alternator #4!
We have got to be a record!:mad2:
Apparently the new part from Ford ran for two minutes.....then stopped working.:mad:
Almost identicle to what happened to me earlier this week.
Mechanic tested the wires from the PCM to the alternator plug. Little to no resistance encountered....meaning the crimp set was fine.
Is the PCM turning the alternator field off????
It's been explained to me that the PCM will tie a pin to ground. That's how it operates.
I wonder if I get a T tap and put it on one end of the alternator harness and check for voltage if when the PCM (or if it is even doing this) sends this pin to ground I could verify it.
A T tap attached near the PCM could also be tested to see if the circuit was being grounded before it got to the PCM.

I've also thought of making a female to male plug to insert between the alternator plug and the alternator. That way I could pull either current or voltage off without using a T Tap connector.

Does anyone have the wiring schematic for the alternator circuit. My HELM manual is being ordered but it will take a few days to arrive.

[TooManyFords]

My understanding of the ECM interface is that it can open or close the clutch (if so equipped) to let the alternator free-wheel under WOT. I went into my SCT Pro Racer and located this info. Now, if the ECM was faulty and telling yours to disable the clutch, then you should see through the housing that the stator would stop turning or at least not turn at the same speed as the pulley on the front.

Otherwise, it has to be in the wiring or yet another bad regulator.

Hope you find the cure soon.

John

[Badger]

It's FIXED!!!!!!!!

I'm a victum of another bad crimp. The top one was soldered. The bottom one was found to be melted. Intermittant contact drove the PCM to markit as a faulty alternator field circuit.

Pictures in a few hours after I enjoy the weather, savor a good beer, and count my blessings that a local tech was able to figure out what was going on.
KUDOS to Randy. He da man! He doesn't have time to post here but after installing four of these kits he has a wealth of install experience with this kit as well as all of the Panther family.

[Breadfan]

PM on the way!


It's FIXED!!!!!!!!

I'm a victum of another bad crimp. The top one was soldered. The bottom one was found to be melted. Intermittant contact drove the PCM to markit as a faulty alternator field circuit.

Pictures in a few hours after I enjoy the weather, savor a good beer, and count my blessings that a local tech was able to figure out what was going on.
KUDOS to Randy. He da man! He doesn't have time to post here but after installing four of these kits he has a wealth of install experience with this kit as well as all of the Panther family.

[Badger]

Here's the little bastard. It was under heat shrink tubing and really does not appear to be that damaged...but it made a tremendous impact on a measly 12VDC system pushing 100 amps.
I do recall (in hindsight 20/20) a slight burning smell. But I atrributed that to the heed liner wearing in. I'm used to electrical burning smells but this one was different.

[Badger]

I want to thank Jerry of Trilogy, Lidio, Charlie, my good friend Jeff who I now owe a staek dinner, and the tech at my local dealer Randy. He has installed four of these kits (one on his own car) and was a wiz at diagnosing the problem even though it reared it's head in a very different fashion then the other people with this problem.

Thanks again to everyone that offered and provided help. Hope people learn from my mistake and make sure to solder these joints or use something more forgiving.