How bad did I screw up my car?

[Motorhead350]

I took it for a run down the 1320 today on opening day and I put 6 gallons of 100 octane. At first it ran a normal 15.3 then it got bad..... 16.1 then 16.2. Now the car rattles, shakes, makes a lotta noise at 4,000 rpm. It even knocks if I tap the gas "just right." On the way back it also flashed the check engine light. So as soon as I burn all of the racing gas will my problem go away or will I finally be using my extended warranty?

[03MERCMARAUDER]

I wouldnt be drving ot to burn up the rest of the Race gas. Sounds like you fried it bud. I say siphon the gas tank, throw some premium in it and take it in to have it checked out.

Joe

[merc]

Sorry to hear that your baby is sick. When was the last time you changed your fuel filter ? Second question, was it leaded gas ?

[Blackened300a]

A few years ago I went to the track with my impala and on a 1/4 tank of gas I through in a whole bottle of octane boost, Well it puttered, spit, and ran like crap, I made it to the gas station put in 87 octane to even it out after driving for a while it was fine.

[jstevens]

I would siphon out the gas and fill up 93 at a reputable station. Also, change the fuel filter for good measure.

See if that fixes it.

[rayjay]

A few years ago I went to the track with my impala and on a 1/4 tank of gas I through in a whole bottle of octane boost, Well it puttered, spit, and ran like crap, I made it to the gas station put in 87 octane to even it out after driving for a while it was fine.

For S&Gs last summer I threw in some octane booster to see if it had any effect. It did, the car ran like crap and my MPG went in the toilet.

[snowbird]

I took it for a run down the 1320 today on opening day and I put 6 gallons of 100 octane. At first it ran a normal 15.3 then it got bad..... 16.1 then 16.2. Now the car rattles, shakes, makes a lotta noise at 4,000 rpm. It even knocks if I tap the gas "just right." On the way back it also flashed the check engine light. So as soon as I burn all of the racing gas will my problem go away or will I finally be using my extended warranty?
Could it be one or some of the oxygen sensors that would had been toasted with lead ? It would explain the check engine ?

[TripleTransAm]

Or a catalytic converter gone bad for the same reason?

[Motorhead350]

The fuel filter was just changed 2 weeks ago. I was planning on driving this thing till it goes dry. Bad idead I take it.

[DL04]

What they said...then if it still runs bad and makes noise delete this thread and take it to the dealer

[HwyCruiser]

I hope something didn't let go on you during the first pass, but filling up with premium and seeing if it drives any better couldn't hurt.

Do you have a hand-held where you can check your o2 sensors? Any codes stored? Are your cats running hot?

Good luck.

[mpearce]

I hope something didn't let go on you during the first pass

This is definitely a possibility. I'm surprised more people haven't mentioned this. How many miles on your motor? When was the last time you changed the oil?

-Mat

[MarauderMark]

Nuked a piston or 2.Sounds like what happened to mine.Yeah get the race fuel out and run(dont run it to much longer or you may get stuck) some 93/94 in it so they dont know and use the extended warranty..Good luck:up:

[Motorhead350]

Actually I do have that device, but I still think I should let it run till it's bone dry. The reason is because number 1 if it gets fixed and still has half a tank of 100 octane it's going to break again and 2 it's under extended warranty. I'll just tell them the check engine light came on (now it won't turn off) and this is what happened.

[Motorhead350]

haha I got 91,400 miles on it and the oil was changed 1 week ago. There were no problems until I put this gas in it.

[LVMarauder]

Now the car rattles, shakes, makes a lotta noise at 4,000 rpm. It even knocks if I tap the gas "just right." On the way back it also flashed the check engine light.


Im suprised more people havent said it too but to drop a second on your 1320 and all those rattles ,shakes and KNOCKING. I hope its not but you might have lost a piston.

[martyo]

Actually I do have that device, but I still think I should let it run till it's bone dry. The reason is because number 1 if it gets fixed and still has half a tank of 100 octane it's going to break again and 2 it's under extended warranty. I'll just tell them the check engine light came on (now it won't turn off) and this is what happened.

And, be sure to tell them NOT to read this site, because no one at Ford has ever done that before.

[SergntMac]

The question of leaded fuel hasn't been answered, and it's not clear to me how 100 octane could be responsibe for this kind of engine behavior.

The 100 octane fuel available at some stations around Chicagoland is from a pump, and it's unleaded. You won't see leaded under 110 octane around here, and that usually Torco in the five gallon can, or, out of a drum. If Motorhead fouled an 02 sensor, the symptoms he described may result, but I doubt that.

IMHO, his engine is toasted, gave in at the first pass, or, maybe before then. Rods stretch slowly, until tolerances are lost and things start banging into each other.

Pull the plugs and look for closed gaps...I'm pretty sure you will find exactly that.

[Motorhead350]

I'll go to the station where I bought the gas and ask. I'm glad it's under warranty because then it can be rebuilt before my blower. :D Well lets hope so.

[Warpath]

+1 on pulling the plugs. While you're at it, pull the H pipe and look at the cats and O2s.

[Motorhead350]

ummmmmmmm welllllll I went to the gas station today and asked if their racing fuel is leaded and got a worse answer then yes....... "What racing fuel?" This place sells racing fuel from one particular pump and apparently it's too early in the year to sell racing gas so they sell Kerosene. So the car is running on a very low octane.... my buddy and I looked it up and turns out it's lower then diesel and I know thats around 48 or 46. So now I feel stupid for not reading the pump when every time I got gas from it it HAS BEEN racing fuel. On the up side I guess I didn't fry anything and maybe the car will come back to normal after a few fill ups of 93.... at least I hope so. Does anyone know what damage I could have caused now that we know the real problem? :o :shake: :depress:

[stevengerard]

was the pump labled kerosene? if not you have them is so that's a bummer.

[Smokie]

Fill up tank with 93, see how at runs at light throttle......pray.

[Zack]

This is hilarious.

[Tallboy]

ummmmmmmm welllllll I went to the gas station today and asked if their racing fuel is leaded and got a worse answer then yes....... "What racing fuel?" This place sells racing fuel from one particular pump and apparently it's too early in the year to sell racing gas so they sell Kerosene. So the car is running on a very low octane.... my buddy and I looked it up and turns out it's lower then diesel and I know thats around 48 or 46. So now I feel stupid for not reading the pump when every time I got gas from it it HAS BEEN racing fuel. On the up side I guess I didn't fry anything and maybe the car will come back to normal after a few fill ups of 93.... at least I hope so. Does anyone know what damage I could have caused now that we know the real problem? :o :shake: :depress:

Serious question here-what does a gallon of Kerosene go for, as opposed to race gas?

[martyo]

This is hilarious.

I may be going out on a limb here, but I am reasonable sure he is glad that you are entertained, regardless of the expense he may incur. :rolleyes:

[Motorhead350]

haha it was like $3.37 and race gas was like $4.37 and that was the price last year. I was wondering why the "gas" was a dollar less one year later.

[SergntMac]

Listen up, DominicK...

1) Drain your fuel system dry, blow out the lines all the way up to the injectors.

2) Remove the spark plugs one by one, number them and inspect for damage, or, changes in gap.

3) Squirt a shot your favorite engine oil directly into the cylinders. Restore fresh plugs, properly gapped.

4) Change the engine oil and filter.

5) Flush and fill the fuel system, 2 to 5 gallons of 100 octane should do fine.

6) Start the engine and if it starts up, let it idle up to normal temps, and monitor conditions.

7) If you still have an engine running at this point, you may be okay. If your symptoms remain...Sorry.

Kerosene and diesel fuels can be tolerated under normal driving conditions, but you went drag racing. I cannot promise you any good result here, but it's worth a try.

Keep us posted?

Oh yeah...Almost forgot. Flush your EEC too, by disconnecting your battery while doing all this other crap...

[Tallboy]

haha it was like $3.37 and race gas was like $4.37 and that was the price last year. I was wondering why the "gas" was a dollar less one year later.

A buck-a-gallon can easily be overlooked. I just figured if Kerosene was substantially cheaper, that would have been a big red flag.

Another question-did you pump directly into your car or a gas can? The reason I ask is I thought kerosene was usually pumped out of a "big" nozzle like diesel fuel, and therefore wouldn't fit the tank opening?

[Motorhead350]

I'll keep ya posted and it was really only 2 runs, but a run is a run. I'm going to fill it full of 93 tonight and drive it till it goes dry tomorrow. I wanna take it to the dealer, but my old man still wants to me to make the 283 mile weekly drive to college. The car still runs ok, but very rough. I really don't wanna drive it, but sense I have no choice because my truck is also being worked on I'll follow all of Macs steps on wed at my friends house. Well I'm glad some of you are finding this funny and hey live and learn. At least this didn't happen after I got a blower..... well not yet. Who knows what I'll drop in this next. if you wanna laugh go a ahead I would be laughing too! :lol: Thanks Mac lets hope everything magically goes back to normal. :o

[Motorhead350]

I pumped it into a gas can and didn't put it in the car until I got to the track. The pump and handle were all normal. I could have easily put it in the car without the gas can.

[fastblackmerc]

You also might want to try one of the fuel system cleaners that hook up to the fuel system (not the pour in the tank kind although they might not hurt). These are usually at most dealerships and oil & lube joints. Otherwise I'd follow SgtMac's advise. The key is getting all the kerosene out of the fuel system.

[MarauderMark]

Listen up, DominicK...

1) Drain your fuel system dry, blow out the lines all the way up to the injectors.

2) Remove the spark plugs one by one, number them and inspect for damage, or, changes in gap.

3) Squirt a shot your favorite engine oil directly into the cylinders. Restore fresh plugs, properly gapped.

4) Change the engine oil and filter.

5) Flush and fill the fuel system, 2 to 5 gallons of 100 octane should do fine.

6) Start the engine and if it starts up, let it idle up to normal temps, and monitor conditions.

7) If you still have an engine running at this point, you may be okay. If your symptoms remain...Sorry.

Kerosene and diesel fuels can be tolerated under normal driving conditions, but you went drag racing. I cannot promise you any good result here, but it's worth a try.

Keep us posted?

Oh yeah...Almost forgot. Flush your EEC too, by disconnecting your battery while doing all this other crap...
This would be the first thing i would do .:shake:

[MM03MOK]

Listen up, DominicK...

1) Drain your fuel system dry, blow out the lines all the way up to the injectors.




I'm going to fill it full of 93 tonight and drive it till it goes dry tomorrow.

I don't think Mac is suggesting you add fuel to dilute it, then run it dry. He's saying get the kerosene out altogether (siphon), as your first step. I personally wouldn't drive it until I had followed Mac's outline. Much cheaper to rent a car and take care of the MM than chance any further, more expensive damage, IMHO.

[Motorhead350]

The tank was down to 1/8 and I filled it with 93. As soon as I filled it I noticed a difference. It runs a little smoother and has completely stopped knocking. I put about 25 miles on it sense the fill up and it'll go close to 300 tomorrow. Heres a new question: Should I fill it up with 93 again when it reaches half empty or should I wait until I'm done with my trip when it's down to 1/8 again?

[stevengerard]

good to hear it is running better.

[Motorhead350]

:thanks: I'm sure this will all be over soon.

[rayjay]

The tank was down to 1/8 and I filled it with 93. As soon as I filled it I noticed a difference. It runs a little smoother and has completely stopped knocking. I put about 25 miles on it sense the fill up and it'll go close to 300 tomorrow. Heres a new question: Should I fill it up with 93 again when it reaches half empty or should I wait until I'm done with my trip when it's down to 1/8 again?

If you are not going to follow the good Sgt's advice, then its adviseable to dillute the kero as much as possible to get it to burn through with minimal damage. I would strongly suggest driving normally until you know the motor is ok. Otherwise, have at it and blow'er up. Since at least one of the time honored additives companies claims to use "jet fuel" in their product for cleaning out fuel systems, you might end up ok. Jet fuel is nothing more than kerosene...

[Motorhead350]

I will follow Macs advice, but I cannot get around to working on it until the middle of the week. I guess driving it another 300 miles wouldn't be following his advice, but I will change the oil, check the plugs and stuff this week. I'm sure Macs advice is the best way to go and I'll do my best to follow it, but in the mean time I got to be somewhere tomorrow and the car seems to be getting better anyway. I'll let you guys know if my plugs are shot later this week.

[Zack]

Change the oil before you do anything else!

[RF Overlord]

I strongly agree with MM03MOK: you should absolutely NOT drive that car 283 miles to school, no matter how well you think it's running, until you follow Mac's suggestions and get ALL of that kero out of there...you run a substantial risk of damaging your motor, if you haven't already. Rent a car and chalk this whole episode up as a valuable life-lesson. Good luck, dude...

[cyclone03]

If the engines damaged it's all ready done.
Change the oil,top it off with 93,DO NOT use more then 1/4-1/2 throttle and run it down to 1/4 tank and fill it up again.
If you can do a non stop 300 mile run,works here in TX, that would be better just set the cruise on 70-75 and wake me in 4 hours.

After that change the fuel filter,again,and oil and filter.
If it still rattles you need to be sure you have nothing but gasoline in the tank before you get to the dealer.


I say all the above because you all ready topped it up with 93 and it runs better.
If it had been me I would have drained it first.

[Warpath]

If the engines damaged it's all ready done...

+1. I think that the engine will fall apart not too far from now. The stock pistons are rather fragile.

[Motorhead350]

Alright I get a cheap oil change before I head outta town. Then I'll change it again after 1,500 miles. My friends and I will go over Macs advice on wed. Thanks again everyone.

[Bluerauder]

....... "What racing fuel?" This place sells racing fuel from one particular pump and apparently it's too early in the year to sell racing gas so they sell Kerosene. .... "snip" .... Does anyone know what damage I could have caused now that we know the real problem? :o :shake: :depress:
Hope this all works out for you and that you haven't done any permanent damage to your engine !! Keeping my fingers crossed on this one. :(

You do realize that after this incident ... you will have to change your screen name, right !!! :rolleyes:

[Motorhead350]

Naa I'll keep my name it's something we can all look back and laugh at. :rolleyes:

[1madmarauder]

i had a co worker make this same mistake in a dumptruck. he filled a 370 2v dump truck with diesel and headed for the job. man did it smoke. i got yhe honors of the draining and filter change and the side of the road, but it really didnt seem to hurt anything. actually, if it did anything at all, it cleaned out the motor and it hasnt had any problems since. my opinion is you're in the clear man........................... ......just for your info, most fuel injector cleaners, fuel sytem cleaners, etc contain high levels of a very common liquid........................ ...kerosene#2

[rayjay]

i had a co worker make this same mistake in a dumptruck. he filled a 370 2v dump truck with diesel and headed for the job. man did it smoke. i got yhe honors of the draining and filter change and the side of the road, but it really didnt seem to hurt anything. actually, if it did anything at all, it cleaned out the motor and it hasnt had any problems since. my opinion is you're in the clear man........................... ......just for your info, most fuel injector cleaners, fuel sytem cleaners, etc contain high levels of a very common liquid........................ ...kerosene#2

Difference is the dump truck didn't run the 1320. Jurys still out on this one.

[TripleTransAm]

370 2V probably also has a compression ratio such that it would run on water.

[rayjay]

370 2V probably also has a compression ratio such that it would run on water.

Good point.

[1madmarauder]

im just tryin to make him feel better, all in all funny or not, this situation he has fallen into sucks all the way around. i guess i would suggest going in the gas station and having some coffee next time before pumping, then maybe the eyes are open a little wider...............hahaha, sorry man had to get atleast one in there! i truly hope all is ok with your car, i know how i get about mine, so you must be goin nuts!!!

[Motorhead350]

Hey it's okay and yea it's a real pain to not be able to speed..... well do 20 over I mean. Yea I hope everything works out and my friend and I will work on it tomorrow or the day after. If nothing changes then it's off to the dealer and finally taking full advantage of the extended warranty. Either way this will be solved and it'll be running great hopefully in the next week.

[Dragcity]

Oh My. Remember, the nose Knows...

I hope you come out of this o.k. I have a Brother-In-Law who can walk into a barn full of schite and come out in a new suit, smelling like roses. I hope you have the same luck.

That poor EEC. I'm sure it is SOOOO confused.

[Motorhead350]

Good news everyone I just saved a bunch of money on my car insurance! Well theres more good news then that. I went to a dealer in my college town today and had them hook up the car to the computer to find out whats wrong. Well 3 cylinders were dead and they said I just need to change my fuel filter, spark plugs and give it a good injecter cleaning for $390. So when I asked about why it was $390 they said they didn't quite know. I was like it's the northwood university sticker on the windshild right? So I bought the factory replacement plugs from them and took it over to my buddies and we changed the plugs, oil and oil filter. I have yet to change the fuel filter and give it a full cleaning. I think I'll have that taken care of later this week plus the dealer said it was 6 hours of work. I thought the labor and cost was kinda :bs: so I did what I could on my own. I never changed plugs in this car before and let me tell you this is no 350 small block. Good thing I had someone with me who knew what they were doing because I would have been very confused. Well anyway looks like all is well again and I'll probably take it down for another run down the track on PUMP GAS and hope for a low 15 or high 14 again. :burnout:

[jgc61sr2002]

Glad to hear it worked out.:D

[Joe Walsh]

Sounds like everything is 'OK'. :up:

Not to cause any alarm, but keep an eye on your exhaust for any blue smoke.
It is possible that you damaged a piston and/or piston rings while running the 1/4 mile hard and detonating badly.

[RF Overlord]

I have yet to change the fuel filter and give it a full cleaning. I think I'll have that taken care of later this week plus the dealer said it was 6 hours of work.Lest anyone else believes that crock, changing the fuel filter is about 15 minutes work...if you've never done it before. Maybe the dealer meant the fuel pump, but six hours for THAT is still a lot...

[Motorhead350]

They meant for everything, but I knew spark plugs were nothing. Like 30 minutes at most... probably closer to 15.

[LVMarauder]

good to hear, ill remember this next time i fill up with 104 .:rasta:

[Warpath]

Did the dealer say what was wrong with the plugs? Seems strange for the plugs just to quit which means that the kerosene did something to them. What, I have no idea.


370 2V probably also has a compression ratio such that it would run on water.

LOL - I think you just solved the world's oil dependancy problem. Pretty soon, water will be $3/gallon.

[Joe Walsh]

Did the dealer say what was wrong with the plugs? Seems strange for the plugs just to quit which means that the kerosene did something to them. What, I have no idea.

I'm guessing that the severe detonation hammered the electrode down to a 'zero' gap, or plain blew it off the plug.

[SergntMac]

I'm guessing that the sever detonation hammered the electrode down to a 'zero' gap, or plain blew it off the plug. I am not in disagreement with you, however, closing the gap on three plugs at the same time, is remote.

IMHO, only one thing closes a spark plug gap, and that's contact with the piston. Dominick should borescope the cylinders to make sure there hasn't been any contact.

The #1 failure on this engine is rod stretch, which will put the piston into the lowest point in the combustion chamber, the spark plug. 100K on this engine...A few WOT passes down the 1320 with a few rods just a tad longer that they were designed...On Kerosene...Add it up?

Dominick...KarKraft has a brand new Marauder/Mach 1 long block for 2895., and it's a one day swap at Zack's Garage.

For some reason, I don't think he's listening.

[Motorhead350]

Whos not listening me or Zack? Of course I'm listening Mac and that sounds like a great idea to me actually. Now is that just a block or does that include other new parts?

[JACook]

IMHO, only one thing closes a spark plug gap, and that's contact with the piston. Dominick should borescope the cylinders to make sure there hasn't been any contact.

The #1 failure on this engine is rod stretch, which will put the piston into the lowest point in the combustion chamber, the spark plug...

I'm sorry, Mac, but I'm gonna have to disagree with you on this one.

If the piston is going to strike the spark plug on a 4.6L 4-valve, it's gonna have to go through the cylinder head deck to get there.
Only way a stock piston ever hits the spark plug in this engine is if it comes apart.

A more plausible explanation for the plug failures, if it was plug failure, is the heat and shock from detonation. I agree a borescope
wouldn't be a Bad Idea, particularly if any of the old plugs are missing any of their insulator ceramic. That stuff is pretty rough
on cylinder walls. BTDT.

[David Morton]

You do realize that after this incident ... you will have to change your screen name, right !!! :rolleyes::lol:

:laugh:

:D


Guys, kerosene is oily, so it probably fouled his plugs. Still, without some read of the plugs all this is guessing. All we know is he changed them. No real info on how long he ran straight gasoline or even if he got it down to 2% kerosene, which would still be keeping his wet plugs fouled.

Hey motorhead. Did the plugs look wet?

Drain the oil through a paint screen and look for metal, big chunks of piston metal or aluminum. If none you'll be OK as soon as you get out the last of the kerosene.

[Motorhead350]

:agree: :banghead: Just kidding I'm not changing it! :baaa:

[Ozz]

Motorhead,
You changed the plugs right? So, what did they look like on the 'business end'? Were any fouled or missing the ground strap? I would tend to anticipate that they were heavily fouled and that none of them are missing any parts.... I would also bet that there is internal damage to the engine (stretched rods, etc) from detonation that may not yet be apparent.


What sort of detonation management does the MM engine have? What would a blown car such as Motorhead's have?

[Motorhead350]

The spark plugs looked pretty bad. At the part where they were supposed to be white they were burnt black and some even had oil on them. So I guess it would be best to now rebuild the engine before the blower in a few months. Didn't wanna rebuild it, but now it sounds like I'd be stupid not to.

[SergntMac]

What sort of detonation management does the MM engine have? What would a blown car such as Motorhead's have? '03s have a single knock sensor on the driver's bank of the block, in line with the 6-7 cylinders. '04 adds one more to the passenger bank, in line with the 2-3 cylinders. They detect detonation at a particular frequency and the EEC pulls timing to back away.

[David Morton]

I've read a few posts about rod stretch (which I'm not disputing) but I'm a bit confused. I was taught that only aluminum or forged steel rods can stretch. As for the latter type some really drastic overrev had to happen first but that in the case of aluminum rods some stretch was gonna happen and that over time, eventually the big ends would go too far egg shaped and knock out the bearings. Cast iron rods (like rubber bands) "remember" their shape and snap back to original shape. They always break before they stretch. And I thought the "powder cast" process rods, like in the 302/5L of the 80s was like cast iron in that respect, break before they stretch.

I've never heard of the rod stretching enough to cause contact between the piston and the head. Any stretch caused the bottom ends to knock out the bearings, long before any contact issues.

Is there something "special" about our rods I don't know about?

[Fast4Door]

I've read a few posts about rod stretch (which I'm not disputing) but I'm a bit confused. I was taught that only aluminum or forged steel rods can stretch. As for the latter type some really drastic overrev had to happen first but that in the case of aluminum rods some stretch was gonna happen and that over time, eventually the big ends would go too far egg shaped and knock out the bearings. Cast iron rods (like rubber bands) "remember" their shape and snap back to original shape. They always break before they stretch. And I thought the "powder cast" process rods, like in the 302/5L of the 80s was like cast iron in that respect, break before they stretch.

I've never heard of the rod stretching enough to cause contact between the piston and the head. Any stretch caused the bottom ends to knock out the bearings, long before any contact issues.

Is there something "special" about our rods I don't know about?

This has been my experience as an engine development and durability testing engineer at Ford.

[MikesMerc]

Sounds like the plugs were simply fouled by the kerosene. :dunno:

[Motorhead350]

Yea pretty much. The car is fine again, but I still think I should change my fuel filter and have an injection cleaner going through. It's probably worse then I realize, but as of now I don't really think it needs to be rebuilt. The guys with more knowledge and expericence have a better idea of the damage then I do, but sense it was a low octane I don't see why I would need new piston rings sense I didn't "fry" anything. Maybe someone could dumb this down a little for me as to why I would need new piston rings... unless your implying my high mileage. 91,875. Thanks

[HwyCruiser]

I'm still waiting for Motorhead to call April Fools.

[Warpath]

Same here.

Anyway, I would think the dealer would tell you the plugs were in bad enough shape to indicate severe engine damage. If they were just fouled, then I think they would have reacted the way they did. They probably mistook the kerosine fowling for bad/dirty injectors. If the power is still there, there are no holes in the pistons.

[SergntMac]

I'm still waiting for Motorhead to call April Fools. Dayum...Didn't think of that. Thanks for the shout out, J.D.!

Another round of "game show" threads draws to a conclusion...And I was having so much fun with them too...

[Motorhead350]

This is no joke this really happened. If you wanted a joke I would have told you I replaced my engine with a V-Tech and my 1/4 time is 24.3@61mph.

[HwyCruiser]

This is no joke this really happened. If you wanted a joke I would have told you I replaced my engine with a V-Tech and my 1/4 time is 24.3@61mph.

If it wasn't for your other thread about heading out to the track on opening day I'd really be throwing the BS flag at you. I retract my cynicism.

I have to say though, for a 20 yr old you're taking all this exceptionally well. I would have had a litter of kittens by now and stop posting a long time ago (if at all), but sometimes you just have to roll with the punches.

[Motorhead350]

Yea stuff happens and this car isn't one of one. Theres something I go by and it this world there is no "totaled." Everything can be fixed and this was an honest mistake. I still can't believe that it's pretty much back to normal after a quick spark plug change. I'm still surprized no one has called me a dumb*** or something like that. Thanks for your support! :2thumbs:

[KillJoy]

Dumba$$....or something like that! :D

KillJoy

I am joking of course!

[Motorhead350]

How dare you! :tantrum: j/k :P

[David Morton]

Oh, I was 30 and pulled up to a pump one day sitting on empty and filled it up on diesel. '68 Buick Special. I got 2 blocks and it shut down.

No, I won't be calling anybody dumba$$ today.:lol:

[Motorhead350]

Well I'm happy that I'm not the only one who made a fuel mistake on here.

[KillJoy]

Well I'm happy that I'm not the only one who made a fuel mistake on here.

You're not the first, and you won't be the last.

It's a hard lesson, but one you will never forget!

KillJoy

[MarauderMarc]

Im glad everything has worked out for you. I couldnt imagine something like that happening to me.

[Motorhead350]

Thanks I think I'm going to make another run this weekend and make sure I'm back to low 15 second times. :cool: Experience is the best teacher! ;)

[Hotrauder]

I think you ought to go for it kid, you'll only be 20 once...and with luck you will look back on that fact gratefully.:D Dennis

[Motorhead350]

Yup live and learn and laugh.

[Dragcity]

So, I guess you could call this a FUELISH mistake !!!???????

Why not try Kero in place of oil this weekend???

I am only kidding. DON'T

[Bluerauder]

So, I guess you could call this a FUELISH mistake !!!???????
Better take Kero that MM now that you have Sene the problems it can cause. ;)

More J/K.

[RF Overlord]

Why not try Kero in place of oil this weekend???I know you're joking, but kerosene is one of the primary ingredients in many of the miracle-in-a-can engine flushes out there...which should only be used if your car already has one wheel in the grave. :down:

[Motorhead350]

Seems like I learn something everyday. Nows heres something weird maybe someone can answer. The can runs great again, but at idol it will go back and forth from 600prm to 400rpm. It never dies, but the battery light flashes briefly. Does just mean I need my injectors cleaned and change my fuel filter or could something other then dirt be causing this? I'm guessing it still needs a cleaning and it should be fine. Any takers?

[Breadfan]

Injectors could be clogged, filter should most likely be changed too.

Also, it could be a bit of a computer re-learn. Did you disconnect the battery for atleast 30mins to clear the computer before your trip? Might need a new MAF relearn or it could be in the process of that.

Also clean your IAC incase it's slightly gummed up, that wouldn't necessarily be related though it could be an issue for the relearn if the IAC isn't working properly. Just pop it off the throttle body and clean it with carb cleaner and and old tooth brush. Let us know if you need more info on the IAC cleaning.

[Motorhead350]

I did disconnect the battery,but it was only like a minute. We cleaned the throttle body though. Overall it's still an amazing recovery to me.

[Marauderjack]

IAC gummed up from the Kero??:confused:

[SergntMac]

IAC gummed up from the Kero? Nope, don't think so here. The IAC is up on the throttle body, and the kero came in through the fuel injectors, 7-8 inches downdraft from the IAC.

But, that's helpful too...Clogged injectors? Perhaps injectors damaged by the kero? Melted?

Just wondering, carry on.

[Marauderjack]

EGR....Mac??:confused:

Ever seen the black soot out of a Kero heater......Just a thought!!??;)

Marauderjack:help:

[MarauderMark]

:laugh::laugh::laugh:

Better take Kero that MM now that you have Sene the problems it can cause. ;)

More J/K.
Now thats a good one...:up:

[David Morton]

Possibly relearning idle, recovering from an outrageous figure it went to when you were running the alternative fuel. Also you might still be running a small percentage of Karo syrup in your fuel now. I doubt it could hurt any injectors.

Did you check the gaps on the new plugs or just look at them?

Are you sure you're not experiencing the normal power steering fluctuation? There's a switch on it that increases idle when you it calls on extra pressure. Just a slight touch on the steering wheel will cause that switch to turn on.

[Motorhead350]

No I haven't checked the new plugs....think I should? I'm just guessing the injectors are still dirty something. I'll run a bottle of fuel injection cleaner and later take it in to get the injectors cleaned unless their as easy to get to as the spark plugs. So does anyone think I can clean them myself?

[RF Overlord]

They're easy enough to remove and replace, but no...you can't clean them without specialised equipment.

Most likely the injectors are not affected, as they're hidden from the combustion chamber by the intake valves and wouldn't have gotten all sooty like the plugs.

[cyclone03]

I was just setting here reading these post,and noticed our friend Motorheads age.
The first thing that went through my head was how lucky I was to grow up with a father who was a gearhead,and made me one too,I learned in the garage.Dumb things I did only taught myself not 1000 people across the country.Dumb things he did saved me the trouble.

Carry on...

[Motorhead350]

Thanks, but I'm the only gearhead in the family. I guess my dad used to be, but never did any mods....... THAT HE TELLS ME OF. I'm the only one driving an American car too. You tought I was bad you should see how he treats his cars. His 2002 BMW 745Li was due for an oil change 11,000 miles ago. It rattles and the service engine soon light has gone off. And he wonders why he has problems with his cars. :shake:

[Motorhead350]

Oh yea I forgot to mention that the car is now completely fine and doesn't jump up and down at idol. I guess it needed some "break" in time. :baaa:

[sfsv]

Motorhead

As a FLM certified service advisor, I have had client's put diesel in their cars as you have placed kerosene in yours. Make sure you flush the fuel injectors with an injector flush machine, because the fuel injection cleaners that you add to the fuel tank are not strong as the one you do directly to the fuel rail. Change the fuel filter again in two weeks after the injector flush. Watch your check eng lamp because I had seen diesel fuel damage the fuel pumps in the past, especially on returnless fuel systems.

[Motorhead350]

Can a dealer do the flush or do I have to take it someplace special?

[JACook]

Can a dealer do the flush or do I have to take it someplace special? Your dealer can do it. Lots of other places can also do it. And you can also buy a DIY kit, and, well, do it yourself.

That said, I would ask why, if the car is running fine again. To be honest, I've never been a fan of injector cleaning,
unless there's a clear reason to do so. My experience has been that using a good quality gasoline, over time, does
a good job of keeping them clean. I've also cured several injector problems using nothing more than some extra
Techroline in the tank. You can buy it at your local McParts store. Doesn't work every time, but IMO, it's worth a
try. But, from what I'm hearing, it sounds like you're past the point of needing anything more agressive than what's
in good quality gasoline. No point in fixing what ain't broke.

[David Morton]

1 qt. of ATF to a tank of gas is good to clean injectors as well as lubricate and refresh the little o-rings throughout the fuel system, and do a good top cylinder/intake valve cleanup.

Amounts to 1-1/2% of total fuel and won't foul the plugs, in fact will clean them up.

Very cheap old trick we used to do way back in the days of carbureted engines and works well on injectors.

[Motorhead350]

You guys won't believe what happened. When I took it down the track today not only was it running constant low 15's I actually set a record! My own personal best with a 15.100. The first run was a 15.3@88mph. I don't know why, but the car didn't wanna shift outta 2nd so it was like stuck at 88 for like 50 feet or so. I was thinking oh no more problems. Then it ran a 15.2 then 15.1. So the car in now "running" better then ever. I think changing the spark plugs helped a lot as far as running compared to a year ago when it would only go like 15.3 on a good day. Now it's constant 15.2 and 15.1. The car is still stock other then a computer change and K&N air filter. I got a 4:10 gear, but haven't installed it yet. I just got a question where is the fuel filter? One guy had a Crown Vic and pointed to something behind his right rear tire and told me that was the filter. Is this true and if so are the Marauder ones there too?

[BillyGman]

The Marauder fuel filter is located on the passenger side (underneath the car of course) and a little bit in front of the rear tire. It has a clamp on each side of it that attach the fuel lines to it. If I remember right, the clamps on the lines have two screws on them that must be loosened. First you should open the hood, and on the driver's side of the fuel rail you'll see a black plastic cap that looks like the caps on tire valves. Unscrew it, and with safety glasses on, take one of your keys, or some other pointed object, and depress the valve for a couple seconds. You'll sometimes hear a little hiss. That will release all the pressure in the fuel lines. Replace the cap, shut the hood.

Once you've done that, you can replace the fuel filter. I'd also strongly suggest that you wear safety glassesd while you're underneath the car replacing the fuel filter. Gasoline and eyeballs don't mix very well. And BTW, make sure you have the new fuel filter with you underneath the car once you crawl under there to remove the old filter. That's just incase the gasoline comes spouting out of the lines, and in that case you'll want to get the new filter on and reconnect the lines ASAP before you have a good part of your garage floor or driveway soaked in gas. Last time I changed it, i don't think that I had any great amount of gas spouting out though. my guess is that it might be better to change it when you haven't a whole lot of gas in the tank ( or in your case kerosene ) (sorry, I couldn't resist). But something tells me that even releasing the pressure in the fuel rails goes farther to prevent gas from spouting out of the lines anyway.

[SergntMac]

I just got a question where is the fuel filter? One guy had a Crown Vic and pointed to something behind his right rear tire and told me that was the filter. Is this true and if so are the Marauder ones there too? Here's a pic of what Billy describes. It's not the OEM filter, but it is in the same location.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/showimage.php?i=438&c=3&userid=392

[O's Fan Rich]

Here's a pic of what Billy describes. It's not the OEM filter, but it is in the same location.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/showimage.php?i=438&c=3&userid=392

Mac, is that a kit? It sure got rid of the bends in the hoses.

[Motorhead350]

Yup thats just where I thought it was. Thanks everyone.

[SergntMac]

Mac, is that a kit? It sure got rid of the bends in the hoses. Yep...From Reinhart a few years ago. I think he still makes them. HP filter element and no bends in the line. Uses stock mounting cage, problem free over two years now.

[Warpath]

...Unscrew it, and with safety glasses on, take one of your keys, or some other pointed object, and depress the valve for a couple seconds. You'll sometimes hear a little hiss. That will release all the pressure in the fuel lines. Replace the cap, shut the hood...

Put a rag or paper towel over the valve before depressing it. It may spew out some fuel and the rag will soak it up and not get on the engine. Also, no smoking. :)

[Motorhead350]

Also, no smoking. :)
The only thing I smoke are tires.... and I think it would be a little difficult for me to "smoke" while I change the filter. :lol:

[BillyGman]

The only thing I smoke are tires.... and I think it would be a little difficult for me to "smoke" while I change the filter. :lol:never say "never"...there's always a way...:burnout: :burnout: