Burned up main fuse

[Bradley G]

Leaving my sisters house on Easter, The Marauder smoked the 12A fuse link on the Battery cable.
The dash was going bonkers, needles spiking back and forth the idiot lamps were blinking on and off like mad.
This left the car with no acessories(eventually).It was a stressfull ride home(50 mi.), in the rain, with no wipers, defroster.
Has anyone done a replaceable fuse link?
I have seen high powered stereos, with a fuseable link on the fender well.
I have been waiting several days for a new wire harness, now I am thinking of making my own.
Thanks

[Zack]

I would be looking for the cause before doing anything else.

[grampaws]

hookup a C/breaker until you find the problem..

[Bradley G]

The alternator checked out.Charges ok.
Could it be, an A/C compressor draw too much current?
I was using the defroster (front) at the time.
I would be looking for the cause before doing anything else.

[bugsys03]

The alternator checked out.Charges ok.
Could it be, an A/C compressor draw too much current?
I was using the defroster (front) at the time.

I doubt it Brad. More likely the wiring harness has rubbed somewhere and is shorting out. Good luck:(

[Smokie]

A fusible link, non resetable; is a smaller diameter wire in a circuit that limits the total draw of an entire circuit, it usually means you had a heavy current draw in that circuit, in most cases a direct short to ground.

Have you added any components to your car with a current draw higher than OEM? Any work recently in engine compartment, behind dash?
a poor or loose ground can also increase current draw, check your ground straps.

Another thing to check is your alt. wire splices if you have them due to being Trilogized.

What Zack said, find the problem first before replacing link, get you an inline circuit breaker in the 10-15 amp range will work, if you tripped it instantly you have a dead short to ground, if it takes time to trip, you have cumulative load, something heats up and eventually overloads circuit (bad ground can cause this) or bad connection of a splice or connection somewhere.

[magindat]

A direct ground short to burna 12A fusible link got REAL hot. There should have been a burning smell. At the very least the typical ozone smell from the arc.

First thing to do is use your volt meter to look for ground on the car side (not battery side) of the blown link. That'll confirm or rule-out a direct short.

[Bradley G]

The alt. wire is spliced with the Gardner Bender Butt Splice connector.

[magindat]

replace it. The alt needs a direct connection to the battery. Fusible may have burned due to resistance at the splice.

Edit: replace entire cable from alt to batt. Cheap at any auto parts store.

[Pat]

Grand Marquis (05) had a recall last year for chaffing battery cable, might check to see if your MM is experiencing a similiar condition. Don't know exactly where the problem area was, I think it was on passenger side frame in the engine compartment. Dealer should be able to pin point location. FWIW.

[DEFYANT]

replace it. The alt needs a direct connection to the battery. Fusible may have burned due to resistance at the splice.

Edit: replace entire cable from alt to batt. Cheap at any auto parts store.

This was going to be my suggestion.

And sodder the wires.

It is unlikely it is a ford issue. I would look for the changes made to the car - like the altenator connections.

[magindat]

This was going to be my suggestion.

And sodder the wires.

It is unlikely it is a ford issue. I would look for the changes made to the car - like the altenator connections.

If replacing entire cable, autoparts store should have complete assembly from terminal to alt with ends. No soldering should be needed.

[DEFYANT]

If replacing entire cable, autoparts store should have complete assembly from terminal to alt with ends. No soldering should be needed.

Not for a Marauder with a Trilogy. The harness is lengthend as part of the install.

I picked up the right wire and terminals when mine went up. I soddered all the connections during the repair. No troubles since.

[Bradley G]

The Car is fixed.
The butt splice connector, shorted to the motor.
This connector was shrink wrapped, covered by the cable armor, and electrical taped.
Now, I better understand, the reason an entire cable is not replaced, as part of a Trilogy kit.If I can I will post a pic of the entire wire loom.
When I redo that splice extention, I will solider the wires, and shrink wrap them twice.

[DEFYANT]

Good news Bradley!

[Smokie]

There are connectors that are gold plated and use a set screw to secure wire in the connector, they will carry the load safely, similar to the way circuit breakers in the home carry loads of similar amperage or more without problems.

Example: 130 amp alt. X 14 volts dc. = 1820 watts.

Stove: 50 amp breaker X 240 volts ac= 12,000 watts.

It is ideal to have one single wire from point a to point b, however using the correct connector will safely carry the load when properly secured and insulated.

I'm glad you found the problem and your car is ok now.