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03SILVERSTREAK
05-26-2006, 11:42 PM
I,ve done a search and did not find an answer so here we go , what needs to be done mechanically or programmed on a 300B series to have all 4 tires the same without alarming the TC or ABS system ?

Im sure there have been some talk about in the past but I cannot find if there was a solution.

As many 300B owner would like nothing more than to same size their tires on a 4-corners for tire longevity purposes.

Any right direction would be helpful...

gilby04
05-27-2006, 09:13 PM
Very coincidental in your query.
After 16,000 miles, the OEM front tires have worn evenly across all the tread ribs, but the OEM rear tires have prematurely worn the center tread rib down to the the wear bars.
In an attempt to counteract the premature rear tire wear, I have evaluated running 235/50-18 on all 4 corners for the last 3 weeks on my '04.

My results are as follows:
I don't drive my MM hard, so the handling characteristics are unaffected.
The ABS feature is unaffected.
The Traction Control feature is unaffected at speeds less than 50MPH.
At 50MPH and above, the Traction Control light on the instrument cluster starts to flash on and off, preventing attainment of a higher speed.
According to my "friendly" L/M dealer, the Traction Control feature cannot be removed from the factory programmed parameters, but only deactivated by the Traction Control "OFF" switch on the dash panel.

I find the deactivating requirement somewhat inconvenient, so I will be outfitting the MM with 2 new OEM rear tires in a few days, inflating to only 28PSI rather than the factory spec of 35PSI, and monitor the center rib wear.

Hope my observations are of help to you.

03SILVERSTREAK
05-27-2006, 09:26 PM
Very coincidental in your query.
After 16,000 miles, the OEM front tires have worn evenly across all the tread ribs, but the OEM rear tires have prematurely worn the center tread rib down to the the wear bars.
In an attempt to counteract the premature rear tire wear, I have evaluated running 235/50-18 on all 4 corners for the last 3 weeks on my '04.

My results are as follows:
I don't drive my MM hard, so the handling characteristics are unaffected.
The ABS feature is unaffected.
The Traction Control feature is unaffected at speeds less than 50MPH.
At 50MPH and above, the Traction Control light on the instrument cluster starts to flash on and off, preventing attainment of a higher speed.
According to my "friendly" L/M dealer, the Traction Control feature cannot be removed from the factory programmed parameters, but only deactivated by the Traction Control "OFF" switch on the dash panel.

I find the deactivating requirement somewhat inconvenient, so I will be outfitting the MM with 2 new OEM rear tires in a few days, inflating to only 28PSI rather than the factory spec of 35PSI, and monitor the center rib wear.

Hope my observations are of help to you.

This was talked about around 2-years but no solution was ever found.
I had thought that something mechanical in the traction control system had to be switched with the traction control system from an 03-04 Crown Vic or Grand Marquis so that you can mount the same tire size all around and have the joy of rotating the tires to get more mileage from them.

Frankly im tired of having to replace the rear tires only due to early wear( no burn outs or racing )and just about stuck using the same tires in the rear that only give you an average 15-18k miles.

Id like to rotate them for more longevity.

03SILVERSTREAK
05-27-2006, 09:33 PM
The other main reason is that now that I have the big brake kit , I have a full size spare that I would like to be able to mount in the rear as well as the front in case of the unfortunate moment.

The way things are now I can only really mount the spare on the front.

jimlam56
05-28-2006, 01:07 AM
This was talked about around 2-years but no solution was ever found.
I had thought that something mechanical in the traction control system had to be switched with the traction control system from an 03-04 Crown Vic or Grand Marquis so that you can mount the same tire size all around and have the joy of rotating the tires to get more mileage from them.

Frankly im tired of having to replace the rear tires only due to early wear( no burn outs or racing )and just about stuck using the same tires in the rear that only give you an average 15-18k miles.

Id like to rotate them for more longevity.

I believe there is a way to permanantly turn off the traction control, requires some under the dash electrical work.
Hopefully someone with this experience will chime in.

67435animal
05-28-2006, 02:09 AM
I,ve done a search and did not find an answer so here we go , what needs to be done mechanically or programmed on a 300B series to have all 4 tires the same without alarming the TC or ABS system ?

Im sure there have been some talk about in the past but I cannot find if there was a solution.

As many 300B owner would like nothing more than to same size their tires on a 4-corners for tire longevity purposes.

Any right direction would be helpful...

Dump the OEM tires. Replace them with what Tire Rack calls KDW2. They handle better and the rears wear normally. Much better tire.

rayjay
05-28-2006, 04:34 AM
I believe this was discussed recently. IIRC, there is no way to permanently defeat the TC, it is too intertwined with other programs.

03SILVERSTREAK
05-28-2006, 08:01 AM
Im not really looking to permanently turn off the traction control but rather have replace what ever control unit that chimes on the wheel sensors and would allow me to mount the same size tires without the traction control system kicking in at 50 MPH.

I know there has to be a way to exchange whatever electronic unit from the 03-04 CV or GM to tell the computer that its OK to run the same tire size all around.

ctrlraven
05-29-2006, 01:08 PM
I thought thats what a flash tuner does when you input a different tire size into it to correct the speedo? I'm running 235/50 all around now due to have both rear tires go flat at the same time because of several nails in both. I notice the t/c comes on at around 45-47mph so I really do is turn it off when I start the car up everytime and just take it easy off the start, hard turns and such. Your speedo will be off about 4mph until you re-cal the speedo. I kinda like knowing im going slower but its increasing the mileage faster on the car :(

FordNut
05-29-2006, 03:45 PM
Can't be done with standard parts. The program is coded to expect a speed difference between front and rear ABS sensors. Speedo information comes from the tranny, not the ABS sensors. It may be possible to have some rear ABS trigger rings made with one extra notch to fool the control system, but it would likely be expensive.

GreekGod
05-29-2006, 06:53 PM
[quote]:

"I find the deactivating requirement somewhat inconvenient, so I will be outfitting the MM with 2 new OEM rear tires in a few days, inflating to only 28PSI rather than the factory spec of 35PSI, and monitor the center rib wear"

Underinflating the rears is a very bad idea! The consensus on this forum is to use more pressure to get even wear on the rears. About 38 psi.

FordNut
05-29-2006, 07:01 PM
[quote]:

"I find the deactivating requirement somewhat inconvenient, so I will be outfitting the MM with 2 new OEM rear tires in a few days, inflating to only 28PSI rather than the factory spec of 35PSI, and monitor the center rib wear"

Underinflating the rears is a very bad idea! The consensus on this forum is to use more pressure to get even wear on the rears. About 38 psi.
That's right. Sounds bass-ackwards, but that's what worked for the majority of us.

JohnE
05-30-2006, 04:10 PM
You could have the ABS computer reflashed at the dealer to match another Panther with 3.55's. Perhaps a Town Car Limo. I don't think the Police cars with 3.55's have all-speed traction control as an option.

You may also source an ABS module from a salvage yard. At least get one with tires expected to turn the same rate as each other.


Personally I like my traction lock with 2 extra clutches, along with right foot control. My traction control has been dissabled for several years. It is simple as a flip of a switch to put it back on. I just don't need it.


John

SergntMac
05-30-2006, 05:17 PM
If you switch to an '03-'04 CV EEC, what's going to run the DOHC 4V engine? Won't there be cam timing, MAF and throttle body issues? IMHO, this is the hard way to go. BTW, brand new EECs are under 250 bucks at the parts counter, but they still have to be programmed.

I know some stuff can be shut off in the EEC. I have an '04 MAV2 EEC in my Kenny Brown #1x, and no traction control on the car. However, what Jerry W. did in the software seems a secret not shared with me. Zack tried a few tweaks on my #3 Marauder (300B with TC) for my winter tires (225/60-17 all four corners), but it didn't work, so, I just shut off the TC when I used the car.

I agree with the comments on underinflation. 28 PSI removes sidewall support in hard cornering, and it increases wear and tear in normal driving. IMHO, start at 40 PSI, and work backwards for your personal comfort level. It works for me.

Just my .03C, carry on gents.

JohnE
05-30-2006, 06:35 PM
I'm suggestion changes to the ABS/Traction Control computer, not the Powertrain Control Module.

All of the traction control functions, except torque reduction are in the ABS computer. The EEC-V sends the ABS computer several live feeds on the SCP bus and retards timing upon request of the traction control unit.

The torque reduction is rather crude on our cars. Torque is blindly reduced, not modified real-time. And the reduction lasts longer than it needs to. Ford has some new technology coming in the new cars, but it's not out yet. If I remember right the awd 500 will be one of the first. They are finally going to make the engine torque modulate (with a routine in the Spanish Oak PCM), in combination with the ABS applying brakes. Of course they've had this level of technology in Volvo for years now. Our turbo S80 has excellent traction control. It puts power to the ground just to the point of starting to slip and keeps it there.

gilby04
05-30-2006, 09:43 PM
If you switch to an '03-'04 CV EEC, what's going to run the DOHC 4V engine? Won't there be cam timing, MAF and throttle body issues? IMHO, this is the hard way to go. BTW, brand new EECs are under 250 bucks at the parts counter, but they still have to be programmed.

I know some stuff can be shut off in the EEC. I have an '04 MAV2 EEC in my Kenny Brown #1x, and no traction control on the car. However, what Jerry W. did in the software seems a secret not shared with me. Zack tried a few tweaks on my #3 Marauder (300B with TC) for my winter tires (225/60-17 all four corners), but it didn't work, so, I just shut off the TC when I used the car.

I agree with the comments on underinflation. 28 PSI removes sidewall support in hard cornering, and it increases wear and tear in normal driving. IMHO, start at 40 PSI, and work backwards for your personal comfort level. It works for me.

Just my .03C, carry on gents.

28PSI may very well remove sidewall support, and increase wear and tear in normal driving. Perhaps the 35PSI factory recommended pressure provides excessive sidewall support. However, as indicated in my original comment, the MM is not driven hard, whether cornering or elsewhere.
Seems to me that the OEM rims are too narrow to effect even tread wear for the rear tires.
Seems to me that the tire bead is constricted causing an outward bulge at the center rib. If so, overinflation would seem to exacerbate the wear.
Also seems to me that the excessive degree of wear and tear of the tread to the wearbars at 35PSI after 16,000 miles of normal driving suggests a decreased PSI is in order.

MENINBLK
05-30-2006, 10:05 PM
Seems to me that the tire bead is constricted causing an outward bulge at the center rib. If so, overinflation would seem to exacerbate the wear.

You obviously don't understand the physics of a WIDE TIRE.
This has been discussed with BF Goodrich at length.

The example given by BF Goodrich is to think of a Dragster tire.
As the tire spins, the center of the tire expands, increasing its diameter
and decreasing the surface contact.
If you were to ADD air to increase the PSI, this will cause the firewall of the tire
to be much more rigid and put more tension on the tread of the tire.
This will decrease the diameter of the tire as it is spinning
and increase the surface contact.
5 - 7 PSI over Ford's recommended tire pressure should be adequate.


IMO, Ford should not be recommending tire pressure for ANY tire of ANY vehicle.
That information should come from the tire manufactures themselves.

Drock96Marquis
05-30-2006, 10:20 PM
I'm suggestion changes to the ABS/Traction Control computer, not the Powertrain Control Module.

All of the traction control functions, except torque reduction are in the ABS computer. The EEC-V sends the ABS computer several live feeds on the SCP bus and retards timing upon request of the traction control unit.

The torque reduction is rather crude on our cars. Torque is blindly reduced, not modified real-time. And the reduction lasts longer than it needs to. Ford has some new technology coming in the new cars, but it's not out yet. If I remember right the awd 500 will be one of the first. They are finally going to make the engine torque modulate (with a routine in the Spanish Oak PCM), in combination with the ABS applying brakes. Of course they've had this level of technology in Volvo for years now. Our turbo S80 has excellent traction control. It puts power to the ground just to the point of starting to slip and keeps it there.
I would think an 03-04 CV/GM ABS module would swap directly for the MM one, which would resolve the problems when going away from the factory size MM tires. I will try and get pinouts of both the MM ABS module and CV/GM ABS modulae ASAP. The torque modulation feature should be unaffected, I would look for a T.C. equipped car's ABS module jsut to make sure.

There may also be a way to wire a SPST switch inline with the factory TC switch's actual on/off input to automatically default the system to off upon start up (like many of the previous gen vic guys have done with replacing the momentary pushbutton, only a step further)

Marauderjack
05-31-2006, 03:48 AM
Well Stated MENINBLK!!!:beer:

My experience has been very poor rear wear at 24-28 PSI (< 15K miles) and much better at 40+ PSI (last set went 33K miles)!!!:bows:

My Nitto's are MUCH better at any inflation and handle better IMHO!!:banana:

Marauderjack:burnout:

gilby04
05-31-2006, 08:44 AM
You obviously don't understand the physics of a WIDE TIRE.
This has been discussed with BF Goodrich at length.

The example given by BF Goodrich is to think of a Dragster tire.
As the tire spins, the center of the tire expands, increasing its diameter
and decreasing the surface contact.
If you were to ADD air to increase the PSI, this will cause the firewall of the tire
to be much more rigid and put more tension on the tread of the tire.
This will decrease the diameter of the tire as it is spinning
and increase the surface contact.
5 - 7 PSI over Ford's recommended tire pressure should be adequate.


IMO, Ford should not be recommending tire pressure for ANY tire of ANY vehicle.
That information should come from the tire manufactures themselves.

Thank you for the clarification.
Apparently, the definition of a WIDE TIRE is 245mm size and wider. The narrower 235mm front tires at 35PSI wear evenly. Obviously, physics must only apply to 245mm and wider tires, or is there some other phenomenon that applies to 235mm and smaller tires ?

Tallboy
05-31-2006, 09:16 AM
You obviously don't understand the physics of a WIDE TIRE.
This has been discussed with BF Goodrich at length.

The example given by BF Goodrich is to think of a Dragster tire.
As the tire spins, the center of the tire expands, increasing its diameter
and decreasing the surface contact.
If you were to ADD air to increase the PSI, this will cause the firewall of the tire
to be much more rigid and put more tension on the tread of the tire.
This will decrease the diameter of the tire as it is spinning
and increase the surface contact.
5 - 7 PSI over Ford's recommended tire pressure should be adequate.


IMO, Ford should not be recommending tire pressure for ANY tire of ANY vehicle.
That information should come from the tire manufactures themselves.

I'm headin' over to the Viper and Corvette forums. The have wide tires. I wonder if they understand the physics of a wide tire? They must be wearing the centers out left-and-right!

Comparing our tires to the rear tire on a dragster is funny as all hell. If you think a passenger car tire at highway speeds is even close to what dragster tires go through, you need to put the pipe down. Our tires don't even come close to "increasing the diameter". The stiffness of the two isn't even in the same hemisphere.

BTW, tires don't even have "firewalls".

FordNut
05-31-2006, 09:21 AM
And here we go again on tire wear. Many threads on this, do whatever you believe makes sense. I didn't believe the increased pressure would have the desired effect either. First set of tires, kept at recommended 35 psi, wore out in 15k. Second set, kept at 30 psi, wore out in 15k, third set, kept at 40 psi, lasted 25k. I don't care about the physics or engineering behind it all, I just know what has worked for many of us here.

RoyLPita
05-31-2006, 09:29 AM
I am thinking of installing a 300a abs module (no t/c) and see what happens there.

SergntMac
05-31-2006, 09:51 AM
Well, so much for brainstorming a topic. I'm satisfied by the metaphore offered, it gave me the mental picture it was meant to inspire. Newbies should get it too.

I believe that the seemingly excessive rear tire wear (in contrast to less wear on the front tires) is the end result of each tire doing it's job. Properly aligned, the front tires should suffer excessiver wear only from heavy braking. Thus, if you're heavy on the go pedal, the whoa pedal will see likewise use. Other than this, the front tires see 1/3 to 1/2 less work than the rears.

The rear tires suffer from burden of pushing a 4400 pound vehicle from a dead stop to highway passing duties. Quite a challenge, and again, with proper inflation, the rear tires should provide acceptable wear. I am pleased with my mileage and longevity, 20K on the fronts, 15K on the rears, both from BFG and Pirelli products. Remember, sticky = wear.

BTW, I'm very mindful of hydroplaning in such a heavy car. I realize that as tread depth reaches 5/32, the rire is half worn out and degrading from there. I'm not one who waits for the tires to tell me I'm out of touch with the pavement in the rain before I upgrade. This is aggravated by the width of the contact patch, and the diminished ability of a wide tire to vacate standing water. At 5/32, they have done their job, and get retired to special events, like helping CRUZTAKER reach the low 13s on street tires, or "street tires only" fun a local tracks.

Keeping in mind that under "normal" driving circumstances, the right rear tire is the single tire providing the push. Increase acceleration and the Traction-Loc diffferential will invite the left rear along to help out, however, by and large, the right rear is the single power wheel accepting the challenge of moving the vehicle. Thus, the more calm and civil driving you do in day-to-day traffic, the more wear one tire will suffer.

Just my .02C, carry on gents.

03SILVERSTREAK
06-03-2006, 08:26 PM
I would think an 03-04 CV/GM ABS module would swap directly for the MM one, which would resolve the problems when going away from the factory size MM tires. I will try and get pinouts of both the MM ABS module and CV/GM ABS modulae ASAP. The torque modulation feature should be unaffected, I would look for a T.C. equipped car's ABS module jsut to make sure.

There may also be a way to wire a SPST switch inline with the factory TC switch's actual on/off input to automatically default the system to off upon start up (like many of the previous gen vic guys have done with replacing the momentary pushbutton, only a step further)

Sounds like a good idea in the right direction.

03SILVERSTREAK
06-03-2006, 08:29 PM
I am thinking of installing a 300a abs module (no t/c) and see what happens there.

Another idea in the right direction.

jonroe
06-04-2006, 07:24 PM
I've read that there are lots of folks here getting only about 15K miles out of the rears. My data are different. I just passed 24K and use 35psi all the time. I am not near the wear bars yet on the rears. They "look" a little over half worn but I assume the last bit will go quickly. I suspect I'll get 30K or over on this set.

Jon

RVT04
06-05-2006, 10:07 AM
both fronts were well worn on my car when i bought it at 1000 mi. aligned the front to zero camber and zero toe and put new tires on and have run them @ 41psi per logan's suggestion for three years and 28,000 mi. been on several all day road coarse events up to 128 mph and the tires are even and flat tread depth across. have taken the rears off and put new on for the road coarse work and then put the original rears back on for drag strip and daily street fun, still not down to the markers but getting close; and needless to say they have been roasted several times! i run them at 41 psi cold. the last trip to ennis launching the car after burning out in the water box got them good and sticky and i dropped the pressure down to 32 and got the car into the 13.8 bracket several runs and then put them back up to 41 for the ride home.
i have no doubt that under inflation 32-35 psi cold causes excessive center tire wear.
linda's car has 20,000 on the factory tires and they are at 41 psi cold and look almost new with even and flat tread depth across all four
her camber is -.02 and toe is also slightly neg. at -.01
the 97 gm has the factory mich xgt4 tires at 49,000 mi and they are over half tread depth even wear and i run them at 35 dead cold
all tires gain 3 psi immediately driving around the block but do not seem to gain any more after a freeway trip or a road coarse event.
i check my inflation fanatically and like to run em on the hard side, better wear and better handling IMHO
sr

mtnh
06-05-2006, 11:07 AM
Sarge, Interesting point on the right rear doing the most work in moving the car forward while maintaining highway speeds. How does this work?

I suspect that anyone running 35 psi or lower and having even rear tire wear for long mileage intervals is probably not laying too hard on the gas at highway cruising speeds. As one who is constantly in the 80 mph range, I've seen this wear consistently on both my MM and my LS. I feel as though there is much less force employed in power transmission for running 65 mph due to reduced aero drag quantities.

So if you had that great 30K miles out of a set of OEM KDWS tires, I would appreciate knowing your normal cruising speed. That is probably one of the greatest variables in tire life expectancy.

I'm running 4 front tires on my wife's MM now due to no need for the full sized rears and the ability to rotate for wear. (plus price and availability) I have an 03 300A, so there is no traction control issue. I did notice that a spirited takeoff out of an intersection to merge in a 600' gap in traffic got the rear end loose in the turn as the engine reached the critical mass 3K rpm area with the 235/50s out back.

Mike

Cobra25
06-05-2006, 11:14 AM
Not for nothing but a Guy use to come by our meets and did that, No one in our group liked the way it looked. But to each their own.

jonroe
06-05-2006, 01:12 PM
I suspect that anyone running 35 psi or lower and having even rear tire wear for long mileage intervals is probably not laying too hard on the gas at highway cruising speeds.

So if you had that great 30K miles out of a set of OEM KDWS tires, I would appreciate knowing your normal cruising speed. That is probably one of the greatest variables in tire life expectancy. Mike
My normal highway cruising speed is 65 to 70 on the open highway (such as it is here in the DC area!). However, around town I usually take off from stops fairly quickly which puts some stress on the rears. I don't do burn outs.

Jon

03SILVERSTREAK
07-01-2006, 09:35 PM
Well now that this thread started from finding a way to run the same size tires without tripping the traction control , to how much tire pressure we need , I will ask the professionals out there to chime in -what would have to be done or changed to mount the front size tires on the rear so all the tire sizes are the same without the traction control kicking on ???

mrjones
08-18-2006, 01:40 PM
Did anyone end up using the 235's on all 4 corners? I'm considering doing this next time around. I've already got 2 new ones in the shed, and they're still on sale, so I may be buying two more. My wife may be using it at some point to commute this school year, and the ability to rotate the tires seems like a plus. I guess I'll have to buy an XCal2 to correct the speedo. Oh, Darn.

crouse
08-18-2006, 02:25 PM
See attached pdf file that I printed from the BFGoodrich site about one year ago.

mrjones
08-18-2006, 02:44 PM
Did anyone end up using the 235's on all 4 corners? I'm considering doing this next time around. I've already got 2 new ones in the shed, and they're still on sale, so I may be buying two more. My wife may be using it at some point to commute this school year, and the ability to rotate the tires seems like a plus. I guess I'll have to buy an XCal2 to correct the speedo. Oh, Darn.

gilby04
08-18-2006, 06:02 PM
Did anyone end up using the 235's on all 4 corners? I'm considering doing this next time around. I've already got 2 new ones in the shed, and they're still on sale, so I may be buying two more. My wife may be using it at some point to commute this school year, and the ability to rotate the tires seems like a plus. I guess I'll have to buy an XCal2 to correct the speedo. Oh, Darn.

I used the 235's at all 4 corners for 2 weeks this past June.
The ride was not what I expected, being too "bouncy" for me.
Also, the MM just did not "look or feel right" without the rake of the 245's.
Decidedly, having the capability to rotate same size tires is not as desirable as maintaining my mind's eye image of what my MM should look like.

ctrlraven
08-18-2006, 10:19 PM
I've had 235/50 on all corners since the end of May. I haven't really noticed anything too much in difference of ride but I will be going to 255/55 soon becauce I miss the rake stance the MM had. My TC does trip on at or around 50 mph. I've been running between 32-34psi in all the tires and tread wear has been very even in the past 7-8K miles I have put on the rears with doing 4-5 short burnouts.

03SILVERSTREAK
08-19-2006, 08:38 PM
I've had 235/50 on all corners since the end of May. I haven't really noticed anything too much in difference of ride but I will be going to 255/55 soon becauce I miss the rake stance the MM had. My TC does trip on at or around 50 mph. I've been running between 32-34psi in all the tires and tread wear has been very even in the past 7-8K miles I have put on the rears with doing 4-5 short burnouts.

I started this on 5/27 so as to do what you have done , but I don,t want to have the TC kicking on so Im looking to see if anyone has solved this minor problem...

RoyLPita
08-20-2006, 07:11 AM
I am also looking into the Magnum RT, Charger RT, and 300C take off 225-/60-18 to put al around. They are the same height as my rear MM tire, just a little thinner. As for the rake, I can adjust the air suspension.

cyclone03
08-20-2006, 08:38 AM
I'm headin' over to the Viper and Corvette forums. The have wide tires. I wonder if they understand the physics of a wide tire? They must be wearing the centers out left-and-right!

Comparing our tires to the rear tire on a dragster is funny as all hell. If you think a passenger car tire at highway speeds is even close to what dragster tires go through, you need to put the pipe down. Our tires don't even come close to "increasing the diameter". The stiffness of the two isn't even in the same hemisphere.

BTW, tires don't even have "firewalls".

The 'Vette and Viper guys all have properly WIDE wheels for those WIDE tires so their pressures will be more normal than the Marauder.Our rear wheels are about an inch too narrow for the 245/45's we run stock.

I'm one of the first here to run the rear tire pressure in the 38-40+ PSI range over 3 1/2 years ago.I have a tread depth gauge from my days as a tire buster and I tracked my wear weekly changing rear psi 2 lbs at a time.My first set of rears (stock) lasted over 30,000 miles with about 15 drag runs,some tasty burn outs and 2 3000mile trips to CA and 1 3000 mile trip to Indy for our MV11.My secound set is at 28,000 miles (60090 total) and I see no reason they will not go to +30,000 (over 62,000 total).
The sweet spot for tread wear for me seems to be 39psi rear and 38 on the front. YMMV.
Your pressure gauge may also varry so always use the same one(yours) to adjust pressure.

ScottB
09-05-2006, 11:52 AM
I have been running fronts all around for the last year or so, and no problems that I can see. I do have a bad vibration that I am still troubleshooting but that definitely isn't tire related (I am sure at this point). I couldn't tell anything different, and I get no lights (I don't have traction control though). These see usage during 30 miles of commute, sometimes in the 110-120mph range.

Once on a whim (and out of convenience) I threw some little Ranger tires on there, I wanted to see what deeper gears would be like (I think they were 15"). It didn't take but a few blocks and I got idiot lights staring at me. I assume that the factory tune will accept the front size on the rear just so the spare will work alright, but that is a guess.

The only drawback I have seen so far is I get equal wear front and back so rotating doesn't do any good (so far). Various incidents have left me buying one pair at a time. But at half the price, I'll run the same size all around and deal with that.