Help Dont Get torque converter stall

[engine23ccvfd]

Hello Guys,

I am not very mechanically inclined and do not inderstand this torque converter stall thing. In the FAQ it is suggested that the chip increase the stall to 2500 RPM but this doesnt make sense to me we idel at 650RPM? Can someone explain this please?

[RF Overlord]

engine:

Stall speed is the maximum rpm that an engine can obtain against the hydraulic load of the torque converter with the transmission shaft held stationary.

Try this link (http://www.fbperformance.com/techtips/histall_converters.html)

It explains everything better than I can...

[engine23ccvfd]

Very good article thanks for the link... So which is better for our cars stock 1. to punch it from idle or brake and raise RPM to a certain level before releasing the brake? If using the second method what would be a good RPM to reach and what if any damage does this do to the tranny/brake/engine?

Thanks

[RF Overlord]

Doing brake-stands (your second method) is a very good way to fry your transmission and/or torque converter...I wouldn't recommend doing it a lot, although some people get good launches this way.

Someone else will have to answer your question of which method is a better way to launch, as I really don't drive my car like that, and I haven't tried either method more than a couple of times. A lot depends on whether you're going uphill or down, how much traction the road surface has, temperature, tire pressures, etc.

[engine23ccvfd]

RF I agree one hundred percent neither method is good for the car I guess I am more curious than anything my MM is a daily driver and i only switch cars every 4 years at around 85,000Miles...Need to take care of her!

Stay Safe

[SergntMac]

You'll have to experiment a bit with your own MM, what works changes with what mods you have installed. I've tried a few tricks from the old days, but what seems to work the best for me, is brake torquing to 1000 RPM, and when you're ready, push into the throttle to a count, or beat, like 1, 2, 3. Go all the way to the floor, but slower than just standing on it. This should help you get through the primary "bog" characteristic of a bone stock MM, or, lighting up the tires. BTW, remember to shut off any accessories, like A/C, and OD. You could try the same method from idle, no brake torque, that may work well too. Good luck!

[ghost]

When I'm at the track, I'll wait for the lights doing a brake stand at about 2000 RPMs, the max I can go without breaking traction.

Then, when I see the third yellow, I release the brake and simultaneously feather-in the gas MAD QUICK, but not quick enough to light up the meats.

I have found that this produces the best 60' time for my car, and I have a lot more torque down low than you guys do. I would suggest you doing the same, since you'll be raising the RPMs to something higher in your powerband, thus providing more useable power for a quicker launch.

As an aside, when you go to the track you'll notice that this procedure is practically universal for guys with automatic transmissions. Raise the RPMs at the line, then GO! ;)

FWIW,

Eric