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not5-0
06-28-2006, 06:04 PM
I will be installing upgraded rotors and pads and was wondering if anyone has any tips, advice or shortcuts that might help me make it go smooth and EZ.

Hotrauder
06-28-2006, 06:15 PM
Ya I know this is trite but go to a brake guy. It was easy, no hastle and reasonably priced. Dennis:beer:

not5-0
06-28-2006, 06:34 PM
Ya I know this is trite but go to a brake guy. It was easy, no hastle and reasonably priced. Dennis:beer:I also planned on installing F&R swaybars, proguard and an oil change while its up in the air. I wasn't doing it to save money, I just prefer doing the work myself as long as the overall consensus is that it is too much of a pain in the #@%.

shakes_26
06-28-2006, 06:45 PM
as easy as pie and chips.

I'd say open the bleeder when compressing the calipers back to put the new pads in, and a one man bleeder kit makes the job a snap.

Front swaybar probably easiest with front rotors off on both side. Might need someone to help you bench press the swaybar in place while you get the body mounts in.

Everythinng is metric on the car, the aftermarket stuff...mixed bag. bleeders might be SAE..can't remember for sure

Tallboy
06-28-2006, 06:55 PM
as easy as pie and chips.

I'd say open the bleeder when compressing the calipers back to put the new pads in, and a one man bleeder kit makes the job a snap.

Front swaybar probably easiest with front rotors off on both side. Might need someone to help you bench press the swaybar in place while you get the body mounts in.

Everythinng is metric on the car, the aftermarket stuff...mixed bag. bleeders might be SAE..can't remember for sure

Free pie and chips. :D

Pub for lunch/dinner Saturday??? :beer: [<<< two pints of Harp.]

MENINBLK
06-28-2006, 07:04 PM
I also planned on installing F&R swaybars, proguard and an oil change while its up in the air. I wasn't doing it to save money, I just prefer doing the work myself as long as the overall consensus is that it is too much of a pain in the #@%.

From what I've heard, Sway Bars are easier to install on ramps...
Make sure you use a drive on lift.

DarthMarauder
06-28-2006, 07:17 PM
If your new rotors arent plated I'd recommend anti-siezing the rotors to the hubs and the wheels to the rotors when I did my last brake job the part that took the longest was getting the dang rotors off was no rust but they were not coming off were seized on.

RoyLPita
06-29-2006, 03:56 AM
The rear rotors may be a pain to remove. I would use anti-sieze on the new pair.

magindat
06-29-2006, 06:35 AM
Dave,
The best advice I can give is to make sure you clean and wire brush the hubs. Any seizing or corrosion may cause a gap or uneven mounting surface resulting in vibration since the rotor would'nt be straight. Very Very light film of anti-seize with no clumps for the same reason.

Take your time. Don't rush and clean clean clean. A straight pad and rotor replacement is very straigntforward. If it looks lright, it probably is. If it looks wrong it probably is.

Good Luck bro.
Rich
Call me if you need any help.