View Full Version : 30,000 mile maint.
SID210SA
06-29-2006, 05:46 AM
:help: I was just curious as to how many of you believe and actually do you recommended vehicle maintenance. It's time for my 30K check up and went to the dealership yesterday and it would be almost $500.00 for the following as quoted from the Scheduled Maintenance Guide:
Change engine oil and replace oil filter
Inspect tires for wear and rotate.
Inspect brake pads/shoes/rotors/drums brake lines & hoses, and parking brake system.
Inspect wheel ends for endplay and niose.
Inspect engine cooling system and hoses.
Inspect exhaust system and heat shields.
Inspect steering linkage, ball joints, suspension and , if equipped, halfshafts, driveshaft and u-joints.
Replace engine air filter.
Replace fuel filter (except natural gas) (see page 46)
Replace cabin air filter, if equipped.
Change qutomatic transmission fuluid on all vehicles equipped with 4R100. Inspect automatic transmission/transaxle fluid level on all other vehicles if equipped with dipstick. Consult your dealer for your particular requriements.
Replace climate-control seat filters (Navigator, Expedition, and Aviator) if equipped.
Lubricate 4X2 ball joints and steering linkage if equipped with zerk fittings.
Inspect and lubricate 4X4 front axel shaft u-joints (f250/350/450/550 and Excursion).
Inspect fuel tanks (natural gas and propane only).
Multipoint inspection.
Now I know some of this stuff doesn't apply but I put it in there any way.
So what are your thoughts. I do not have an extended warranty nor do I plan I getting one, I do have mechanical breakdown insurance through my insurance co. which covers anything that goes wrong with my car mechanically or electronically. 3 of my vehicles have gone well over 100k with out any services of this type and the others did not have problems either but were sold or traded in before 75K.
Thanks,
Mike:coolman:
fastblackmerc
06-29-2006, 06:51 AM
If your mechanically inclined you can do most of those yourself. Will cost you much less than $500.00.
RF Overlord
06-29-2006, 10:20 AM
SID, the only things on that list that really apply are the following:
1.) Change engine oil and replace oil filter
2.) Replace engine air filter.
3.) Replace fuel filter
You can do these things in your own driveway for about 1 hour's time and $60 in parts. All the other items either don't apply to the MM, or are simply a visual "inspection" that you can most certainly do yourself for free. Remember, that list just says they will "inspect" all those items...if anything is found in need of attention, that cost is additional.
One side note: If you haven't done so already, I would change the ATF and filter at this time. If your ATF looks clean and red, just doing a pan-drop will be sufficient, otherwise getting a flush would be in order. Again, the pan-drop is something you can do yourself in about an hour, for a total parts cost of $30 or so...
Grand total: $100
Amount that stays in your pocket: $400
Satisfaction of doing it yourself: Priceless
Rider90
06-29-2006, 10:40 AM
Keep in mind if you just did your oil, say at 29k, theres no use in changing it at 30k just because you hit 30k...but it wouldn't hurt.
magindat
06-29-2006, 11:09 AM
If I had the 500 bucks to blow, I'd get a finned, plugged tranny pan from Rinehart and have a local tranny shop do a drop and replace w/ATF change. I'd do the oil. And if there was any change left, I'd get a JLT to replace my air filter (or at least the K&N drop in).
http://www.innovativeinterceptors.com/performance.html (INTJL1)
http://reinhartautomotive.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=12345&Product_Code=MM-ACDTK&Category_Code=9
Maintenance complete and mods to boot!
Plus, you'd have K&N washable filters in either case and the ability to replace 4 or so quarts of tranny fluid in your own driveway whenever you want.
Not to mention a tiny mileage boost from free-er flowing filter and cooler tranny from the finned pan.
If I had 500 bucks to blow....
Rich
Bluerauder
06-29-2006, 11:36 AM
I was just curious as to how many of you believe and actually do you recommended vehicle maintenance. It's time for my 30K check up and went to the dealership yesterday and it would be almost $500.00 for the following as quoted from the Scheduled Maintenance Guide:
Change qutomatic transmission fuluid on all vehicles equipped with 4R100. Inspect automatic transmission/transaxle fluid level on all other vehicles if equipped with dipstick. Consult your dealer for your particular requriements.
The transmission service is probably the biggest ticket item on the list. I am on a 15000-18000 mile tranny service schedule with my MM. Oil and filter changes every 3000 miles.
SID210SA
06-29-2006, 11:48 AM
Thanks Family.....I already have the JLT....so other than the "inspect" items I was concerned about the Trans fluid and I am on my second to last free oil change so that is done....where is the fuel filter....on one of the rails of the frame towards the rear of the car? Thanks again
Mike
cyclone03
06-29-2006, 11:52 AM
Fuel filter is in front of the right rear tire inside the frame rail.
Just for info,I'm at 58500 and my brakes are not close to being worn out.
RF Overlord
06-29-2006, 11:56 AM
^^^what cyclone said^^^
You'll need a 5/16" nutdriver to loosen the strap, and a small flat-blade screwdriver to *GENTLY* pry out the connector clips. Let the car sit for ½ hour or so to allow fuel pressure to dissipate before doing this.
SID210SA
06-29-2006, 12:27 PM
Just for info,I'm at 58500 and my brakes are not close to being worn out.
Wow!!! Yeah I was wondering about the brakes. Thanks Lance.
Mike:coolman:
SID210SA
06-29-2006, 12:35 PM
^^^what cyclone said^^^
You'll need a 5/16" nutdriver to loosen the strap, and a small flat-blade screwdriver to *GENTLY* pry out the connector clips. Let the car sit for ½ hour or so to allow fuel pressure to dissipate before doing this.
Thanks....cause I would be looking around forever to see what would fit....:D
fastblackmerc
06-29-2006, 12:40 PM
^^^what cyclone said^^^
You'll need a 5/16" nutdriver to loosen the strap, and a small flat-blade screwdriver to *GENTLY* pry out the connector clips. Let the car sit for ½ hour or so to allow fuel pressure to dissipate before doing this.
FYI.... there is a pressure test port on the fuel rail on top of the engine. Put a rag over the top of the port and press in the Schrader valve, releasing the pressure in the fuel system. Eventhough you release the pressure you'll still have fuel leak out of the filter so you want a container available to catch the spill.
jimlam56
06-29-2006, 01:05 PM
FYI.... there is a pressure test port on the fuel rail on top of the engine. Put a rag over the top of the port and press in the Schrader valve, releasing the pressure in the fuel system. Eventhough you release the pressure you'll still have fuel leak out of the filter so you want a container available to catch the spill.
Good advice Jim.
Son # 2 recently found out the hard way that pressure stays even after the clips are removed.
Good thing he DID listen to me about safety googles, as he got a gasoline facial...
Mike;
I'm at 24K now and am planning to space out the really necessary things over three or four pay periods. Fuel filter, then transmission fluid change, then coolant flush and gush, then brake job (new pads and rotors turned). Not in any particuliar order.
I found that on my GM if one let the brakes go too long even though they didn't cause any problems the cost of replacement parts because of out of round rotors was astronomical approximately $700.
jstevens
06-29-2006, 02:32 PM
I took mine in especially for the trans fluid change. But I only paid like $250 for everything, I think.
$500 sounds like robbery.
cyclone03
06-30-2006, 08:04 AM
Good advice Jim.
Son # 2 recently found out the hard way that pressure stays even after the clips are removed.
Good thing he DID listen to me about safety googles, as he got a gasoline facial...
Better advice...
Find the saftey fuel shut off in the trunk,left side near the air susp. switch.
Smack it with the handle of a screwdriver until it pops up.
Then try and start the car,it will not start BTW.Now you have zero fuel pressure.
Better advice...
Find the saftey fuel shut off in the trunk,left side near the air susp. switch.
Smack it with the handle of a screwdriver until it pops up.
Then try and start the car,it will not start BTW.Now you have zero fuel pressure.
Pull the fuse for the fuel pump. Run engine until it stalls.
SF
SID210SA
06-30-2006, 09:40 AM
it may have to wait till next weekend but thanks for all the advice>
Dragcity
07-17-2006, 10:20 AM
My 30,000 mi. maintenance is $315.00
They jokingly said they would install my 4.10's for free if I let them keep the car for the week and then take it racing on Friday night....
What a silly bunch at Culligan.
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