Quick Trans Pan Question

[jonroe]

Next week I'm swapping out my stock trans pan for the Ford Racing deep aluminum pan with drain plug. Quick question.....

I noticed today while changing oil that the front edge of the trans pan is very close to a frame member. You can just barely get the socket on two of those pan bolts. It looks like trying to crack the gasket at the front would be a bad idea. When you all drop the pan, which corner is easiest to start spilling the fluid?

Thanks.

Jon

[Zack]

Get those bolts off with a 1/4" socket. Put the socket on a long extension and feed it in from the side then up to the bolt head. Piece of cake.

[stryker]

I don't know how Mang.


STRYKER.

[RF Overlord]

When you all drop the pan, which corner is easiest to start spilling the fluid?Before I had the pan w/integral drain plug, I would remove all the bolts but the 2 front corners, and one in the back. Support the pan with one hand while you remove the back bolt, then slowly loosen the 2 front corner bolts. The pan should gradually tilt down at the back and drain with a minimum of fuss.

[jonroe]

Overlord,

So, you spilled out the back without much fuss? I had it wrong in my post. Of course, the frame member is in the back. Did you not make a mess with that frame member? I was thinking of tilting the car forward and spilling out of one of the front corners. I was going to back the car into my slightly tilted driveway and then jack up at the two rear jack points to force the pan to tilt forward. Do you think that will work? I'll be at it this coming weekend.

Thanks, all.

Jon

[RF Overlord]

jonroe, it's been so long since I had to remove the pan to drain it, I must have been thinking backwards, too. Whichever end is opposite the crossmember is the end to drain from...your idea of lifting the rear end sounds like a good one.

While you're under there, install the drain pan with the built-in plug so we don't have go through this again...:D

[jonroe]

Yeah, this will only be done once! I bought the FRPP deep aluminum pan with drain plug!

Jon

[RF Overlord]

Good choice! You won't be sorry...having a drain plug makes the job SO much easier and less messy...

[jonroe]

Job done today! A few observations....

-- I re-used the pan gasket, no problems. I did not have to pry the gasket loose - it came off easily with no damage.
-- I put in a new trans filter from Advance Auto.
-- I drained exactly 4.5 quarts of oil.
-- I put back 6 quarts but might need another 1/4 quart or so. The dipstick is now at the bottom of the crosshatch when hot.
-- I decided to drain towards the back and did spill some on the frame member and the ground - a little messy! I tried the idea of draining toward the front but when I jacked up the back end I didn't like the room available under the car near the trans pan. There was better room for me to work when the front was jacked up.
-- The stock pan had no bad debris in it, just the yellow factory filler tube seal plug in the bottom and extremely fine (finer than dust) metal stuck to the magnet.

All in all a very easy job with good results. I like the idea that I have nearly two more quarts of oil, a drain plug, a cast aluminum pan with cooling fins, and a new filter.

Jon

[RF Overlord]

Way to go, Jon... :up:

As far as the level is concerned, as long as it's anywhere in the crosshatched area (when at normal operating temp) it's fine. If you're right at the bottom, you may want to add another ½ pint (at most) to bring it halfway up. Don't fill it to the top of the crosshatch; ATF expands when hot and you need to allow for this.

[jonroe]

Thanks. Yes, I would not go any higher than 1/2 of the way up the crosshatch area to allow for the hottest days. I suspect you are right that 8 ounces or less might be all that is still needed. I'm letting it run for a couple of weeks and then check.

Jon