Gasoline and Oil

[SlkMerc]

Hey Fellas,

I have 57k on my 03 300A, Stock engine except the cold air intake ( I wonder if I can sell the factory air box?). I was wondering a few things.

#1. Factory recommends the 5w20 motorcraft ( just bought a case) and I love motorcraft filters. What do you guys use?

#2. I baby this thing. Says to use premium fuel but lordy! its almost $4 a gallon here. Why the premium and what if i use lesser octane?

#3. Fuel mileage. I realize its a lot of ponies to feed and all. What kind of fuel mileage are you guys getting that DONT banzai your MM's?

'Tanks!
SlkMerc Donnie

[KillJoy]

Hey Fellas,

I have 57k on my 03 300A, Stock engine except the cold air intake ( I wonder if I can sell the factory air box?). Doubtful I was wondering a few things.

#1. Factory recommends the 5w20 motorcraft ( just bought a case) and I love motorcraft filters. What do you guys use? WIX Filters, Mobil1 Oil

#2. I baby this thing. Says to use premium fuel but lordy! its almost $4 a gallon here. Why the premium and what if i use lesser octane? Cuz you gotta, or it go boom

#3. Fuel mileage. I realize its a lot of ponies to feed and all. What kind of fuel mileage are you guys getting that DONT banzai your MM's? Upwards of 24 on the highway

'Tanks!
SlkMerc Donnie

OH YEAH....... WELCOME ABOARD!

KillJoy

[jimlam56]

Hey Fellas,

I have 57k on my 03 300A, Stock engine except the cold air intake ( I wonder if I can sell the factory air box?). I was wondering a few things.

#1. Factory recommends the 5w20 motorcraft ( just bought a case) and I love motorcraft filters. What do you guys use?

#2. I baby this thing. Says to use premium fuel but lordy! its almost $4 a gallon here. Why the premium and what if i use lesser octane?

#3. Fuel mileage. I realize its a lot of ponies to feed and all. What kind of fuel mileage are you guys getting that DONT banzai your MM's?

'Tanks!
SlkMerc Donnie

#1 What you bought is fine. I use Mobilone and Purolator.

#2 Premium fuel only. Period.

#3 22-23 mpg Highway.

[Tallboy]

There's plenty of Crown Vic owners who would happily buy your OEM airbox.

[juno]

5w-20 is for CAFE (corporate average fuel economy) only. It is fine, but 5w-30 would be a better bet for longevity. (JMHO)

The motor is higher compression, 10:1 or so. Using anything less then 91 could cause severe damage from early detonation.

Some people are getting repectabl fuel mileage, but I can't seem to keep my foot off the go pedal.

[SlkMerc]

Thanks for the replies.

So, Octane additives that raise the numbers arent sufficient to combat the detonation problems?

I will use the 5/20 and go 5/30 after i use it up. Thanks!

[Rider90]

So, Octane additives that raise the numbers arent sufficient to combat the detonation problems?
I say do it, you seem to be set on using a lower octane. So do it and get some additive, save five bucks, and put the life and reliability of your car on the line. Seems worth the money saved right?

[Breadfan]

The octane boosters really don't do anything. Read the label carefully on them...when you read the fine print you'll see the big bold number they claim on the front is BEFORE you do the true octane equation on them. It raises one of those numbers a few points, but once you do the math (and they typically show this on the back label in very small print) you see most octane boost products will only raise octane on a tank of gas about .2 points or so. So, they're not worth it, and will not raise octane enough to be cost effective.

Use premium, it's what the car needs. Your only option is to buy a tuner and get a tune for lower octane. But, the cost of the tune and an Xcal2 will be around $400, and you'll see less performance from the car. It'll take some time to get that $400 back, and you're MM won't be as quick.

Remember it's got an aluminum motor, so detonation from lower octane can be very dangerous for the motor.

Good luck!

[ctrcbob]

I have been using 87 (R+M/2) since I purchased my MM. Use the same on my present LC, and the two previous LC's.

Never had a ping yet, and both cars (plus the two previous LC's) run great.
I don't horse it around, but I do drive it.

[Breadfan]

I have been using 87 (R+M/2) since I purchased my MM. Use the same on my present LC, and the two previous LC's.

Never had a ping yet, and both cars (plus the two previous LC's) run great.
I don't horse it around, but I do drive it.

The motors are compensating for the low octane by retarding the timing curves. Ping is present, the knock sensors are hearing it before you and reigning in the timing. The cars are not performing up to spec as a result.

Yes the computer will attempt to compensate, but whether or not it's truly eliminating all knock is questionable. Especially under a high heat or high load condiiton you will have a strong risk of damaging the motor.

I really just wouldn't recommend doing that...these motors don't respond well to knock.

[RF Overlord]

To add to what Breadfan said^^^, OTC octane boosters are a COMPLETE waste of money...don't even bother, they do NOTHING. When they say "raises octane 4-7 points", they don't tell you that a point is a TENTH of an octane number...so if you run 92 octane fuel and a bottle of boost, you end up with 92.4 to 92.7 octane in your tank... :shake:

As far as your oil and filter question, unless (or until) your motor is heavily modded, like with a blower or nitrous for instance, Motorcraft 5W-20 is a superb oil and you should have no concerns at all about using it. Motorcraft filters are (IMHO) the best value for money and are readily available at Wally World, AutoZone, etc...no reason to use anything else.

Sign up over on CVN (www.crownvic.net) and CVU (www.crownvic.us) ...those guys are always looking for Marauder airboxes and MAFs...

[Bluerauder]

#2. I baby this thing. Says to use premium fuel but lordy! its almost $4 a gallon here. Why the premium and what if i use lesser octane?

'Tanks!
SlkMerc Donnie
Welcome :welcome1: to the MM.Net, Donnie and Happy Maraudering !!!

I am using Motorcraft 5W20 as recommended. Others have noted alternatives with oil and filters preferred. My highway mileage is about 23.5 mpg on longer trips. However in daily driving, I am probably closer to 17 mpg; but I like to use my right foot alot. :D

As to question #2. Book says 91 Octane as a minimum. I use Sunoco 93 here almost exclusively and fill up at the same station when I can. Anything less is playing Russian Roulette with your 4.6L DOHC. A new engine will cost you about $6,000 plus installation. Figures that you would have to drive more than 500,000 miles to save enough to pay for one engine failure. That's about 25 years of driving for me. Simply put ..... It ain't worth the risk. The cost-benefit ratio on 87 vs 91/93 is essentially Zip, Nada, Zero. :rolleyes:

[wchain]

My Dad put in 87 once when he borrowed my car. That was the last time.

These cars are made for 93 Octane like others have said.

Theres a difference between cars that say "premium recommended" and "premium required"

When one purchases any car, they are committing to being able to maintain and operate it properly, which includes being able to put the correct fuel in it, etc.

As far as the factory box, sure get rid of it, I keep my old parts, just in case.

[sailsmen]

If you are woried about the cost of premium fuel buy an econo car and sell your Marauder.

[jgc61sr2002]

Welcome aboard.:D :welcome1:

I would also recommend the Motorcraft 5 W 20 oil, Motorcraft filter and preimum fuel.

[wchain]

If you are woried about the cost of premium fuel buy an econo car and sell your Marauder.


DING DING DING!

Give the man a cigar!! :pimp::lol:

[Mebot]

If you are woried about the cost of premium fuel buy an econo car and sell your Marauder.

Well said. You know if you look around at other countries and see what they're paying per gallon for fuel, you might be glad paying what you're paying.

But the way I see it is, I don't care about the price per gallon. I honestly don't. I bought my Marauder about a month ago now and the first thing people say when I tell them I bought one is "Wow, a V8, why'd you get a gas guzzler"

It doesn't faze me me, honestly, and I really can't explain it.

[SergntMac]

You have heard the best of the best here explain things, I can't say anything any better. But, I can add...

The lubrication system is also a component of engine cooling. Last July/August (Chicago's hottest season), I ran of series of tests on different weight oils. With a 180 stat, the lowest and most consistent coolant temps came from the 5W20 weight oils, synthetic, or, dino blend didn't matter. The highest temps resulted from the thicker oils, such as 5W40 and 10W30, again irrespective of synthetic or dino.

If you continue to drive on lower octane and run the engine a few degrees hotter than ideal, you are going to detonate, or, pre-ignite, and both will be fatal over time.

[Bluerauder]

Well said. You know if you look around at other countries and see what they're paying per gallon for fuel, you might be glad paying what you're paying.
I cringe every time that I hear this comparison of fuel prices. :rolleyes: The cost of oil, refining, and transportation is comparable to the US. It's the European taxes that create the big difference. I don't think anyone wants to see the European tax burden here. :alone:

[KillJoy]

I don't think anyone wants to see the European tax burden here. :alone:

Isn't that why this country was created?

KillJoy

[baltimoremm]

USE PREMIUM FUEL!!!!!
Think about it, the difference between 87/93 is 20 cents/gallon. If you drive 25 miles per day, thats 20cents a day you are "saving", 1.40 a week, 73 bucks per year.

Here are a few things you can do to offset the cost

1. Skip one shower per week
2. Skip mowing your lawn once a month
3. Drink two less beers saturday night
4. Make your wife skip one meal per week
5. Steal one ream of paper or a box of pens from work every month.
6. Hang dry your laundry.
7. Search your couch cushions
8. Tip your next waitress 10%

[MitchB]

Your car is pure stock sans the air box? Buy an SCT tuner (XCal2) and use it to flash a performance tune into your computer. I have spent over one year playing with the tune on my father's stock 03 and you can definitely increase your fuel mileage by at least 5-10%. Aside from the mileage increase, you can change things that can make your car drive like a completely different car. Others can tell you about this. I reside in New York, but travel several times a year to Westminster, just off Bolsa Chica Rd about a mile or so south of 405. If you want, I can give you a hand next time I'm there. I have the racer package that gives full access to just about all the powertrain control module calibrations. I could probably find enough time to work on changing thinks to your preference. Check the computer calibration sticker which is usually located on the driver's side door post below the windshield inside of the L/F fender. Should be a white stick-on tag with a four digit code. If you have a BMD0 tag, I can help you. You should be able to get the hand held XCal for less than $400. See what others have to say. The way you want your car to start, run and drive including how your want your transmission to shift is very unique to each individual driver. You can buy an XCal2 from one of the two supporting vendors on this site with tunes already loaded on the device. Your car can be tuned to run on a lower grade of gas if you want. Up to three different tunes can be loaded into the XCal and you can flash your computer with any of the tunes you want.

Now you can leave your car stock and just go on enjoying it as it is. However, to get any meaningful increase in fuel mileage, you will have to change some of the computer calibrations. Mileage is also dependent on what kind of driving you do and how you drive. You can change how the knock sensor works to give a little more protection when running lower grades of fuel or a more aggressive tune.

Should you decide to go this route, I would be willing to give you a hand if you desire.

Mitch

http://www.sctflash.com/



Hey Fellas,

I have 57k on my 03 300A, Stock engine except the cold air intake ( I wonder if I can sell the factory air box?). I was wondering a few things.

#1. Factory recommends the 5w20 motorcraft ( just bought a case) and I love motorcraft filters. What do you guys use?

#2. I baby this thing. Says to use premium fuel but lordy! its almost $4 a gallon here. Why the premium and what if i use lesser octane?

#3. Fuel mileage. I realize its a lot of ponies to feed and all. What kind of fuel mileage are you guys getting that DONT banzai your MM's?

'Tanks!
SlkMerc Donnie

[Mebot]

I cringe every time that I hear this comparison of fuel prices. :rolleyes: The cost of oil, refining, and transportation is comparable to the US. It's the European taxes that create the big difference. I don't think anyone wants to see the European tax burden here. :alone:

Taxes or not, the final end price is still what matters because that's what we pay at the pump.

[MM_BKK]

If your car is not boosted you can run regular gas with no problems. I've been putting in 87 octane for over a year with no driveabilty problem and never even heard it pinging. The compression ratio in the MM is actually 9.85:1. It's somewhat high but not over the top. The MM's engine benifits from the fact that the combustion chamber is hemisperical by having the spark plug in the center of the piston thereby it reduces the time for the combustion to propagate to the edge of the piston as compared to a wedge chamber where the combustion would have to travel completely across the piston and sometimes it collides with the preignition that often occurs in the quench area of the combustion chamber going back toward the spark plug. The result of this collision is the detonation or pinging. The MM's cylinder heads are aluminum which dissipates heat faster that cast iron so that you can run higher CR than the cast iron version before it starts to ping. And since the MM's piston is just over 3.5 inches as compared to most other engines where they're 4 inches and up, this too helps to reduce the time for the combustion to reach the piston's edge and won't allow much time for preignition to occur. The MM's knock sensor does a pretty good job backing off the timing should there be any pinging. This only applies if your engine does not have any power adder (e.g. super/turbocharger and nitrous) If you have any of these power adder then you'll have to pay the piper and feed it premium fuel.

[SlkMerc]

For those that were a smartass, Blow it out your tailpipe. As I mentioned, Im a new owner. I am not a tightwad, just wanted to get the feedback I asked for regarding the fuel. I did the research on the additives and sure, it doesnt make sense to use anything but the recommended octane. I do have a rough idle and the previous owner mentioned it needs a MAF sensor. He cleaned it and it improved but it still needs to be replaced. I am wondering if this is the culprit regarding the idle and the 14mpg im getting around town. I have a 91 town car that gets about the same city MPG so maybe its the norm. Again, thanks for the welcome from those who took the time to respond cordially.


Donnie

[fastblackmerc]

Welcome SlkMerc. I'd follow all the recomendations in the owners manual.

[MitchB]

For those that were a smartass, Blow it out your tailpipe. As I mentioned, Im a new owner. I am not a tightwad, just wanted to get the feedback I asked for regarding the fuel. I did the research on the additives and sure, it doesnt make sense to use anything but the recommended octane. I do have a rough idle and the previous owner mentioned it needs a MAF sensor. He cleaned it and it improved but it still needs to be replaced. I am wondering if this is the culprit regarding the idle and the 14mpg im getting around town. I have a 91 town car that gets about the same city MPG so maybe its the norm. Again, thanks for the welcome from those who took the time to respond cordially.


Donnie

Try installing the factory air box. This might be the cause of your idle problems.

Mitch

[jgc61sr2002]

Donnie - Wecome aboard.:D :welcome1:

[SergntMac]

If your car is not boosted you can run regular gas with no problems. I've been putting in 87 octane for over a year with no driveabilty problem and never even heard it pinging. The compression ratio in the MM is actually 9.85:1. It's somewhat high but not over the top. The MM's engine benifits from the fact that the combustion chamber is hemisperical by having the spark plug in the center of the piston thereby it reduces the time for the combustion to propagate to the edge of the piston as compared to a wedge chamber where the combustion would have to travel completely across the piston and sometimes it collides with the preignition that often occurs in the quench area of the combustion chamber going back toward the spark plug. The result of this collision is the detonation or pinging. The MM's cylinder heads are aluminum which dissipates heat faster that cast iron so that you can run higher CR than the cast iron version before it starts to ping. And since the MM's piston is just over 3.5 inches as compared to most other engines where they're 4 inches and up, this too helps to reduce the time for the combustion to reach the piston's edge and won't allow much time for preignition to occur. The MM's knock sensor does a pretty good job backing off the timing should there be any pinging. This only applies if your engine does not have any power adder (e.g. super/turbocharger and nitrous) If you have any of these power adder then you'll have to pay the piper and feed it premium fuel.Welcome aboard, sir, and thank you for such an insiteful (and accurate) introduction among us.

[SlkMerc]

Thanks Mitch. Im not sure the brand of air intake although I believe I have seen the same one on a few of the members' cars here. I am wondering why that could be the cause of the rough idle. Question better served, those of you running the air intake/K&N type filter, are you experiencing rough idle as well?

[SlkMerc]

Any idea what its worth? I will go to the CV's site and see if I can get it to one of those guys

[RF Overlord]

I am wondering why that could be the cause of the rough idle. Question better served, those of you running the air intake/K&N type filter, are you experiencing rough idle as well?One of the issues with K&N-type oiled filters is that people over-oil them...and sometimes they come over-oiled right out of the box. This oil migrates onto the MAF (mass airflow sensor) and can cause rough idle, poor mileage, erratic throttle response, etc. Try using some residue-free electrical contact cleaner (DO NOT use carburetor cleaner!) and see if that helps.