Can we talk battery relocation?

[O's Fan Rich]

I'd like to see what it took for those who moved their battery to the trunk.
I do believe I want to do this, as I want to put a larger tank for my methanol setup.
Picture would be nice, too.
I've got the battery in the trunk in my 68 Fastback project ( patiently waiting for me to get the MM done) using a Painless kit and an aluminum box. But I want to be Marauder specific here.

If I'm thinking right, I'll need to run the positive cable from the trunk to the engine fuse box connection and make a solid ground point in the trunk.
I'll use an Optima to avoid venting issues, but would I still need a full box?

Please let me know what you've done.

[Joe Walsh]

Use a HEAVY gauge double-sheilded/insulated positive cable and install a selenoid right next to the battery in the trunk.
This cable is a dedicated starter only function.
That way the cable is only 'hot' when you are cranking the engine. No chance of a short that will start a fire or melt down your battery and cable.
You will have to run a seperate, smaller positive wire for all the normal vehicle 12 volt functions up to the main fuse box.
Also, Our Marauders have a permanent magnet starter, which means that you have to add a relay into the starter circuit to prevent the starter from 'running on' when you turn off the starter selenoid.

Check out this website:

www.madelectrical.com

It is where I bought a lot of my wiring goodies and got several good pamphlets including one covering remote mount/trunk battery installs.

[snowbird]

I'd like to see what it took for those who moved their battery to the trunk.
... ... ...
If I'm thinking right, I'll need to run the positive cable from the trunk to the engine fuse box connection and make a solid ground point in the trunk.
I'll use an Optima to avoid venting issues, but would I still need a full box?

Please let me know what you've done.
Rich,

I went to a specialized shop that were doing only electrical installation stuff.

The guy seemed to know what he was doing. He told me i needed ventilation, sturdy box, caliber #1 positive wire and a giant Bassworx 250 amp fuse and holder. I did a sturdy 1/8" 2 pieces aluminum box and neglected the ventilation part for initial install. When the stock battery dies, i'll switch to Optima. I kept the sturdy box idea to give best protection from luggage hits and possible shorts if done with metal or liquid. Inside the alu box, the terminals are protected by generic plastic boots and some plywood glued on the battery where the aluminum top sit over. I managed a 2" space from the box to side inner trunk to protect wire and fuse.

He did the rest. He installed the giant fuse 12" from the battery in the trunk and routed the wire through the car and soldered it beside the fuse box next to the original battery location. I stayed and watched all afternoon as i wanted the big wire (about 5/8 - 3/4" diameter) loomed wherever possible for added protection. He had to take his time ! The wire and fuse were 200 cdn$ and with 4 hours labor , it totalled over 400 cdn$. Never had trouble. He told me any short the other side of the fuse will trigger it safely.

Now, after reading Joe Walsh answer i'm not so shure i've got such a great install and i guess following Joes more elaborate way looks like a safer route.

Good luck !