Z&M Control Arm Install Detail.....DUW!!!

[MM2004]

This afternoon, I installed the Z&M Control Arms in about 1.75 hours using hand tools, and will share my install experience as it occurred.

The install was very straight forward, and will encourage anyone contemplating doing the install themselves to move forward in doing so.

First off, I cannot detail the removal of the OEM bushings as Zack and I made prior arrangements in sending me a set of bushings as I was relentless in keeping the OEM control arms in tact.

First step:

Preparing the Z&M Control Arms for bushing install.

Using 250 grit sandpaper, I went along the ID of each end of all control arms to remove any burs, etc. that may have been present during manufacturing.

A slight amount of oil on both the bushing and the ID of each control arm prior to the bushing install. (There are 3 different sizes of bushings, and attention needs to be paid during this procedure!).

The lower control arms use the same bushing on either end, and is not imperative to look for differences. However, the uppper control arms use different bushing on either end, and must be compared to the OEM's prior to install.

Attention must be paid to the chamfered or "lead end" of each control arm prior to pressing the bushings in.

My method used was a "BFRM", Big F***ing Rubber Mallet and a sturdy vice.

Holding the control arm horizontally against the arbor of the vice, my buddy "tatooed" the bushing into the control arm with two strikes. Once the bushing appeared seated, we proceeded to place the control arm on top of the opened jaws of the vice then strikning the bushing a few more times until fully seated into the control arms. (Read the supplied install indtructions for further detail.)

This process took all but 10 minutes to do and was ready for the install.

Second Step:

I turned off the air suspension then jacked one side of the car up using the factory jack starting on the driver's side. Once the tire was removed, I placed a floor jack directly beneath the pumpkin of the rear-end for added support. Beginning with the upper control arm, I loosened both end bolts that hold it onto the frame and axle. (These bolts are very tight, and be prepared while using hand tools to grunt like hell during this procedure.) The axle side of the control arm has a metal piece made onto the nut that will allow removal without an additional wrench. (See below) This also appies to the frame side. (Back the bolt all the way out as the nut will not fall out of it's position once the bolt is removed.)

I had to slightly raise the rear-end using the floor jack in order to remove the bolts once separated from the nuts.

Keep in mind that the upper control arms can only go in one way, with the narrow side of the control arm facing to the rear. (The tube of the control arm has a "flattened end that uses the shorter bushing.)

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/2/9/8/9/DSC00001.JPG

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/2/9/8/9/DSC00003_768890.JPG

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/2/9/8/9/DSC00002.JPG


http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/2/9/8/9/DSC00008_804176.JPG

Place the OEM control arm on the ground in the same position as removed. Match the Z&M control arm to the OEM, paying attention to the bushing size, then install reversing the removal directions above.

Once the bolts are properly tightened (Very tight!) begin with the lower control arm removal.

The axle side of the lower control arm will require 2 sockets or wrenches in order to remove. The frame side has a self locking nut made onto a bracket, that will fall once the bolt is removed. (Make sure to have your hand on this one to prevent losing, although doubtful.)

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/2/9/8/9/DSC00009_381403.JPG

The lower control arms can be installed either forward or back, just make sure that the bushing lip side of the control arm faces "outboard" prior to install.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/2/9/8/9/DSC00011.JPG

Place the OEM control arm on the ground in the same position as removed. Match the Z&M control arm to the OEM, paying attention to the bushing size, then install reversing the removal directions above.

Once the wheel is in place, the floor jack removed, and all feet on the ground, make sure to turn the air suspension back on prior to driving.

Driving Experience:

OMFG!

The difference in handling is far more than I expected. A road that I have traveled for many years was my destination, on seeing what differences there were.

This is a very unortodox road with turns banking opposite of the direction of the road, and an excellent proving ground so to speak.

Keeping the car in second gear while maintaining ~4,000 RPM, I thrashed my MM thru these 20 MPH turns at better than 45 MPH!

The car stayed flat with no feeling of understeer nor oversteer in the least. It is hard to describe, but the car felt as if the wheelbase had been shortened by 50%, with the trunk being beneath my azz.

The car responded with no fuss whatsoever and the steering wheel remained firm while doing so.

The hardest part of the "test" was not touching the brakes as force of habit.

Turning into my subdivision is a very tight turn (90 deg.) off of a main artery, and I whipped the wheel doing 15 - 20 MPH never missing a beat or the hint of lost traction.

I do have the Addco front and rear sway bars, that only adds to this well overdue suspension mod.

Being more than impressed with this mod, I can only recommend to everyone that this be on their "shortlist" of next to do mods.

Zack and Mac,...

Thanks for making this mod a reality. Best money I have spent yet.

Now for a dyno tune,... :D

Mike.

BTW, the OEM control arms are pieces of shat, and are of the poorest grade metal you could possibly find. :shake:

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/2/9/8/9/DSC00014.JPG

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/2/9/8/9/DSC00013.JPG

Thanks.

[KillJoy]

As always.....NICE WRITE UP!

Curves...brakes.... HA!!!!!
KillJoy

[prettyrico]

Thanks ill be doing this Soon!!

[Zack]

Excellent write-up. To ease the removal and installation of the bushings, pick up a 1 1/2" and 2" galvanized pipe plug from the hardware store. They fit right over the bushings.
4 sets remain for sale.
Thanks Mike and everyone else.

[SergntMac]

Nice job, Mike, excellent write up. Thanks.

[alarmguy]

Great pics Mike! Thanks.

[jimlam56]

Thanks Mike!
I'll be installing mine soon, so this will be helpful!

[MM2004]

Thanks for all the kind feedback!
:beer:
I drove the MM to work this morning and shot a few expressway ramps at greater speeds than ever attempted before.

On the radio, the DJ was starting a song while shooting a ramp, and I was going so fast that the DJ slid in HIS seat, and HIS CD skipped. :D

Man is this car fun to drive. :banana2:

Mike.

[SergntMac]

I love it...Keep driving, Mike.

[Daily 03]

Got the Arms installed today. Mike your write helped since I did not have to figure out how to go about the install since you had already spelled it out.
I want to thank Mac and Zack for getting such a fine product made. Did not have a chance to test drive the car today but I am looking forward to doing it. I have had the Arms for some time but have not gotten around to installing them as I have had a pinched nerve in my shoulder.
Thanks Everybody
Dale

[SergntMac]

You are very welcome, Dale. Enjoy!

[stryker]

I don't know Marauderers but they it look weak and thin for a colosal Panther car.


STRYKER.

[SergntMac]

I don't know Marauderers but they it look weak and thin for a colosal Panther car. STRYKER.Ummm...We know. That's why Zack and I built something better.

[stryker]

Ummm...We know. That's why Zack and I built something better.:cool: OK, When you create something heavier let me know and I will buy ones for my Merc Panther.


STRYKER.

[SergntMac]

:cool: OK, When you create something heavier let me know and I will buy ones for my Merc Panther.You're kidding, right? What do you think this thread is about?

[RF Overlord]

stryker, are you looking at this picture?:
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/2/9/8/9/DSC00014.JPG

...or this one?:
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/2/9/8/9/DSC00011.JPG

the first pic is of the flimsy factory arms...the second one is of the Zack & Mac arms, which are more than "heavy" enough for this car...

[MM2004]

:cool: OK, When you create something heavier let me know and I will buy ones for my Merc Panther.


STRYKER.

You are obviously confused about the facts of this thread, and what the upgrade is all about.

Do not turn my install reference into a bashing thread as it's intent is to share the install experience with members who are considering wrenching on their own cars.

Now, back on track,..

Mike.

[MM03MOK]

Archived in Reviews! Thanks, Mike!

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/reviews/showproduct.php?product=48

[Zack]

4 sets left for sale!

[ik04]

4 sets left for sale!


How much($)?

I'll PM you for info....

...and what does DUW mean?

Kevin

[SergntMac]

DUW = "Dial up warning". Means imbedded pics that slow the loading for dial-up users.

The contrrol arms are 450. a set of four. E-mail ZackMcGrath@hotmail.com

[BLACKMARAUDER04]

I had by Z&M control arms installed on Saturday. First, let me say the instructions that come with the control arms are excellent. However, it should say to replace the upper arm first, as once the lower arm is on, the hole will be about 1/4 of a inch too short to fit the bolt back in. I had to ractchet the control arm closer to fit it in. The drivers's side took about 1 hour, the passenger side 1/2 hour. This is a great modification. I didn't feel any wheel hop over bumps, and the car takes corners on the freeway at high speeds much better. The car just feels that much firmer. Oh, the cost of the install was $100 at a local brake/suspension shop. I called a shop I saw in Mustangs and Fords that did a suspension job. When I told him it is a 1-1 1/2 hour job, he said he wouldn't do it for less than $300.00. It goes to show you how greedy some people are.

[MM2004]

I had by Z&M control arms installed on Saturday. First, let me say the instructions that come with the control arms are excellent. However, it should say to replace the upper arm first, as once the lower arm is on, the hole will be about 1/4 of a inch too short to fit the bolt back in. I had to ractchet the control arm closer to fit it in. The drivers's side took about 1 hour, the passenger side 1/2 hour. This is a great modification. I didn't feel any wheel hop over bumps, and the car takes corners on the freeway at high speeds much better. The car just feels that much firmer. Oh, the cost of the install was $100 at a local brake/suspension shop. I called a shop I saw in Mustangs and Fords that did a suspension job. When I told him it is a 1-1 1/2 hour job, he said he wouldn't do it for less than $300.00. It goes to show you how greedy some people are.

I am not understanding the bolt holes not lining up??

Was the car sitting on it's feet? If not, was there any support on the rear axle to prevent it from 'slipping' down once the bolts were removed?

I used hand tools when I did the install and supported the rear end with a floor jack.

The bolts came out with my hands and went back in the same way.

Mike.

[Dragcity]

Oh, I want to do this SOOOOOO bad, but I am broke.

Alms for the poor????

Any payment plans????


Maybe I can just wrap duct tape around my stock stamped steel ones.

I need a second job.

Nice post, and congratulations....

[teamrope]

Excellent write-up. To ease the removal and installation of the bushings, pick up a 1 1/2" and 2" galvanized pipe plug from the hardware store. They fit right over the bushings.
4 sets remain for sale.
Thanks Mike and everyone else.

A shot of spray white lithium grease helps makes it a breeze as well. :)

[Zack]

However, it should say to replace the upper arm first, as once the lower arm is on, the hole will be about 1/4 of a inch too short to fit the bolt back in. I had to ractchet the control arm closer to fit it in.

Ive done many cars now and some line right up and others you have to tweak to get the bolts lined up.
it all depends on the placement of the jack and the surface the other wheel is resting on.
Anyway, thanks for the comments.
A few sets are left for sale.

[BLACKMARAUDER04]

When the new lower control arm is in, there is no play in the upper control arm. The old lower control arm may have been flexed a bit from wear and tear. I found that the hole did not line up correctly with the new lower control arm in place first, so we used a tie down w/ ratchet handle to pull the upper conrol arm closer to the left side hole ( mounted to right side hole first). As soon as it moved that quarter inch, I put the bolt back in. On the passenger side, we did the upper first. It took only 25 minutes to finish that side. I am so glad that I don't have to lube the bushings.

GREAT PRODUCT.

[stryker]

You are obviously confused about the facts of this thread, and what the upgrade is all about.

Do not turn my install reference into a bashing thread as it's intent is to share the install experience with members who are considering wrenching on their own cars.

Now, back on track,..

Mike.:type: Ok MM2004, Thanks to that nice answer I preefer to buy the METCO ones sorry if I offense you with my past posts. :mad:


STRYKER.

[MM03MOK]

:type: Ok MM2004, Thanks to that nice answer I preefer to buy the METCO ones sorry if I offense you with my past posts. :mad:
STRYKER.OK, Osvaldo, go to post #16 above and review the OEM and the Z&M control arms. You tell us which look heavier. I believe you're getting the two confused. As SergntMac said, we all know the OEMs are flimsy, hence improved aftermarket options. MM2004 was not out of line with his response to you in his thread.

[SergntMac]

:type: Ok MM2004, Thanks to that nice answer I preefer to buy the METCO ones sorry if I offense you with my past posts. :mad:


STRYKER.What year is your GM? If it's not an '03 and up, chances are neither control arm will fit.

The Z&M parts are designed exclusively for the Marauder, personally I'd prefer that they not be used in non-Marauder applications. We didn't do any research on other panther vehicles, you're on your own, dude.

[stryker]

What year is your GM? If it's not an '03 and up, chances are neither control arm will fit.

The Z&M parts are designed exclusively for the Marauder, personally I'd prefer that they not be used in non-Marauder applications. We didn't do any research on other panther vehicles, you're on your own, dude.:type: Ok Sarge, My new adquisition is a Mercury Grand Marquis LS 2003 soon I will post pics of the new sucesor of "BLACKHAWK-P74 INTERCEPTOR" it has the new revised suspension and shocks relocation plus it has the iat integrated to the maf like the Marauder just watch for the pics !BUT! ¿ In which forum I post the thread ?


STRYKER.

[jaywish]

Hi Zack,

When I put mine in (With the the help of "Meninblk, thanks again) I RTFM before I did the job. It specified that distace from the car body to the rear be measured while the car is in normal state, (on the ground). Then when the installer was ready to tighten all the nuts and bolts on the new arms, this distance was to be achieved by jacking the rear into the correct height.

I seem to remember this was to minimise twisting and squeeking of the bushing rubber. If the above procedure were followed, this would place the bushing in neutal unstressed position while the car was rideing level, minimizing the amount of flex required from the rubber as the rear raised and lowered during vehicle operation.

Maybe this isn't really important but I thought it made sense. The manual also specs torque figures for the fasteners. I do remember them as very tight.

Thanks for the Arms !

Jay

[mike marauder]

where do you get these z&m control arm at. I'm interst in get some for my mercury marauder.

[fastblackmerc]

where do you get these z&m control arm at. I'm interst in get some for my mercury marauder.

Another member has a set for sale at:

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=36921&highlight=control+arms

[Tony_the_Brit]

Stryker is not alone in his thoughts. For those intimately familiar with the product it may seem a ridiculous thought - but he, like me, has not seen the arms in the flesh.

Despite the "shat" comment about the OEM arms, they are well designed for their intended purpose - to locate the axle front-to-rear and isolate road noise. The bushings allow free twisting movement so that a single wheel can rise or fall. Notice that this supposedly terrible material shows no rust or deterioration structurally. How many Panthers have you heard of having a control arm break - even in police service?

Uprated control arms such as Z&M or Metco reduce the front to rear movement drastically - but also resist twisting - increasing the roll stiffness of the rear suspension and putting more twisting loads into the arms themselves and the mounting points. The improved handling that most people comment on tends to come primarily from that increased roll stiffness - which also reduces understeer (push) and increases steering response.

The risk is that the arms themselves, or the mounts, will develop stress cracks from the increased torsional loads and ultimately fail. The fact that the arms are stronger built does not necessarily mean anything since the stiffness of the bush and arm combination increases the stress and requires a stronger arm just to get back to the integrity of the original product. The mounts, however, remain stock and they also are subjected to the additional stress. This will probably not be a problem for a while, but after many thousands of miles and some years it is quite possible that some will experience problems with cracks and maybe even failures.

I am sure that the Z&M arms themselves have been developed to handle this stress over a long life - but what if one is damaged by being grounded on an obstruction? The OEM arms are designed to be very strong against compromise from grounding, as are the billet aluminum Metco arms - tubular arms generally are notoriously weak in this area (I used to build rally cars). I cannot say whether the Z&M arms are designed to resist this type of damage and to what degree having never seen any - it all depends on the materials used and the weld type and quality.

Please understand that I am not criticizing these arms - I have not seen any and the risks to the suspension mounts are not, in my opinion, enough to not buy the arms (I have the Metcos) but owners should, in my opinion, be aware of the issue and keep an eye on your mounts as the mileage rises. Also carefully examine the arms after any grounding in that area.

Hopefully I have demonstrated that the fact that a product uses superior materials and is stronger than the item it replaces does not necessarily mean that the overall result is more resistant to damage or wear. Stryker's comment was legitimate and should not be ridiculed offhand. Likewise, the comments about the OEM arms merely display a lack of understanding of the design of such items and the priorities involved.

[RCSignals]

Good points Tony. I've heard of mounts failing on high mileage pre-2003 CVs, although even that is rare.

The Z&M Arms are not constructed by Zack. They are made up by a reputable Race car builder. They're stout stuff.

Welded tubular after market performance suspension components such as these are not unique. They are very common, as you should know having been a rally car builder.
Using the stock bushings may be an advantage in the area of non-forgiving stiffness, such stiffness as you point out is not necessarily the best thing all 'round.

I'm not sure grounding these arms is such a common scenario in our typical usage.

[Tony_the_Brit]

RC - I don't disagree at all.

I am just uncomfortable seeing a member's point ridiculed when it is made in good faith.

As I mentioned, I am not familiar with the Z&M arms and so cannot profess to assess their likely performance.

If they use OEM bushes then that is a positive sign since it would greatly reduce the increase in torsional stress. The Metco arms use poly bushes and I would recommend anyone using them (like me) to inspect your control arm mountings regularly or to have them strengthened.

[mike marauder]

where can i get me a set of these Z & M control arm. I would like to put them on my car.

[RCSignals]

where can i get me a set of these Z & M control arm. I would like to put them on my car.

There was a set for sale in the parts for sale section a while ago but they may have been sold.

Post up in the parts wanted section and you may get lucky.

[TheDonk]

where can i get me a set of these Z & M control arm. I would like to put them on my car.

PM Zack, he recently ran a group buy for 'em.
He'll be able to fill you in.

[BigCars4Ever]

Stryker is not alone in his thoughts. For those intimately familiar with the product it may seem a ridiculous thought - but he, like me, has not seen the arms in the flesh.

Despite the "shat" comment about the OEM arms, they are well designed for their intended purpose - to locate the axle front-to-rear and isolate road noise. The bushings allow free twisting movement so that a single wheel can rise or fall. Notice that this supposedly terrible material shows no rust or deterioration structurally. How many Panthers have you heard of having a control arm break - even in police service?

Uprated control arms such as Z&M or Metco reduce the front to rear movement drastically - but also resist twisting - increasing the roll stiffness of the rear suspension and putting more twisting loads into the arms themselves and the mounting points. The improved handling that most people comment on tends to come primarily from that increased roll stiffness - which also reduces understeer (push) and increases steering response.

The risk is that the arms themselves, or the mounts, will develop stress cracks from the increased torsional loads and ultimately fail. The fact that the arms are stronger built does not necessarily mean anything since the stiffness of the bush and arm combination increases the stress and requires a stronger arm just to get back to the integrity of the original product. The mounts, however, remain stock and they also are subjected to the additional stress. This will probably not be a problem for a while, but after many thousands of miles and some years it is quite possible that some will experience problems with cracks and maybe even failures.

I am sure that the Z&M arms themselves have been developed to handle this stress over a long life - but what if one is damaged by being grounded on an obstruction? The OEM arms are designed to be very strong against compromise from grounding, as are the billet aluminum Metco arms - tubular arms generally are notoriously weak in this area (I used to build rally cars). I cannot say whether the Z&M arms are designed to resist this type of damage and to what degree having never seen any - it all depends on the materials used and the weld type and quality.

Please understand that I am not criticizing these arms - I have not seen any and the risks to the suspension mounts are not, in my opinion, enough to not buy the arms (I have the Metcos) but owners should, in my opinion, be aware of the issue and keep an eye on your mounts as the mileage rises. Also carefully examine the arms after any grounding in that area.

Hopefully I have demonstrated that the fact that a product uses superior materials and is stronger than the item it replaces does not necessarily mean that the overall result is more resistant to damage or wear. Stryker's comment was legitimate and should not be ridiculed offhand. Likewise, the comments about the OEM arms merely display a lack of understanding of the design of such items and the priorities involved.
Where the He!! are you driving you Marauder that your worried about grounding the rear controll arms. If you manage to ground the rear controll arms you most likely have a lot of other more serious damage to the rest of the car!

[knine]

I saw a lady had grounded her car (tranny) on a curb Tuesday. Daaaayyyyyyyyyyyyyyymm. Smoke filled, she kept going, leaving a trail to the front door of the station. Thank goodness it wasn't a MM.

[mike marauder]

4 sets left for sale!
do you have any more set of the control arms left. If so e-mail me with a price and address to send the payment. My e-mail address is Mikesmarauder@comcast.net. I been hearing great review about z & m control arms.

[MM03MOK]

do you have any more set of the control arms left. If so e-mail me with a price and address to send the payment. My e-mail address is Mikesmarauder@comcast.net. I been hearing great review about z & m control arms.
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=37565

[Local Boy]

Tony the Brit makes a good point...A point all us 4X4 truck guys repeat...

In short...Your car is only as stong as its weakest point...

ALOHA

BTW: I too need to up-grade my control arms...Still saving for a set...