View Full Version : Engine Failure Pics
Enjoy these everyone and hope it never happens to you.
This is what I saw when I pulled the pan:
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/4/0/4/DSC01951.JPG
This is a view looking in the crankcase:
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/4/0/4/DSC01954.JPG
Bearing cap lodged between block and crank:
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/4/0/4/DSC01957.JPG
This is what a piston looks like after it slapped the cylinder head a few times;
The pistons are dirty because they were from my previous build but still good.
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/4/0/4/DSC01934.JPG
Hope you enjoyed them!
Tallboy
08-28-2006, 10:27 AM
I hate that this happened to you.
Breadfan
08-28-2006, 10:48 AM
Ouch. :( That is horrible...looks like the block was damaged too, huh...
Any word from the builder?
Breadfan
08-28-2006, 10:49 AM
Sorry for the double post...server acting up.
grampaws
08-28-2006, 10:50 AM
Almost looks as though the cap bolts fell out..the journal
doesn't look to bad..block is fubar..
TooManyFords
08-28-2006, 11:43 AM
I'd save the block and have the hole welded shut. JB Weld is your friend!
LOL!
In fact, save everything! We'll put it all back together and make a "project" out of it for my Fox Mustang. I've got a set of heads and upper parts and we'll JB the heck out of your lower and make a killer NOS motor for the street!
I'm startin to dig this idea!
john
Breadfan
08-28-2006, 11:56 AM
I'd buy it for that, put it in my Spitfire the block would be fine because you wouldn't have to rev past 3,000RPM before you get the crap scared out of you...
'course I'll need to put it back together first and get the body done...but still!
http://www.neuralimpulse.com/cars/trpics/IM001244.JPG
Still, for a built motor like that, brand new, to see that after the first start all over something of a rather minor oversight...sad. :(
MitchB
08-28-2006, 12:17 PM
Have you been able to determine the root cause of this failure?
Mitch
SergntMac
08-28-2006, 12:47 PM
Have you been able to determine the root cause of this failure?
MitchZack posted that over the weekend, rod cap came off, not torqued down. See pic 1, rod bolt lying in the oil pan.
O's Fan Rich
08-28-2006, 12:58 PM
That be ugly right there. I'd like to know about the bulders comments also....
Blackened300a
08-28-2006, 02:04 PM
Am I seeing things or is this a hair line crack in the block?
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d12/blackened300a/engine.jpg
Agent M79
08-28-2006, 04:05 PM
Zack posted that over the weekend, rod cap came off, not torqued down. See pic 1, rod bolt lying in the oil pan.
Forgive me as I am not so mechanically adept... Is the rod cap bolt something that the builder didn't tighten properly, something Zack overlooked, or something that can be properly installed and come loose that quickly? Should we all be looking at our rod cap bolts?
grampaws
08-28-2006, 04:19 PM
Wasn't tightened properly..Needs to be torqued and would
not be noticeable with just a visual inspection..Easy mistake
to make-unfortunately costly..Wire ties used in racing engines
to prevent bolts backing out even if this mistake occurs..
Hotrauder
08-28-2006, 05:19 PM
Zack, thanks for the pics...and... NO I DID NOT ENJOY them!. they made me sick to my stomach..all 3 of them. Damn, so close yet so far. Keep on this Zack. I hope our contributions help. We want to see that Bad Ass Marauder run down here in Atlanta and Gainsville. We also want to see you on top as usual. Dennis:beer:
SergntMac
08-28-2006, 05:33 PM
Forgive me as I am not so mechanically adept... Is the rod cap bolt something that the builder didn't tighten properly, something Zack overlooked, or something that can be properly installed and come loose that quickly? Should we all be looking at our rod cap bolts?Yes.
No.
OMG...NO!
The chief (not all) components of a "short block assembly" are the bare block itself, pistons, connecting rods, crankshaft and oil pump. After the bare block, this is usually referred to as a "rotating assembly", parts that actually move at what we measure by RPMs. Revolutions per minute.
The piston moves up and down in it's cylinder, the crankshaft rotates in place. The transition in movement is the "connecting rod".
The con-rods move up and down at one end, but rotate where they connect to the crankshaft, as the crank rotates. The oil pump (on our engines) also rotates on the crank "snout", or, "forward stem".
To be specifically vague, movement of the connecting rods in general, is "push-pull". At the piston, they connect with "wrist pins" internal to the piston. At the crank, they connect with "rod caps" surrounding the crank.
With proper bolts and bolt torquing at this point, the con-rod changes from being two-pieced, to a solid one-piece unit. It rides on the crank with bearings and a layer of engine oil for lubrication.
Rod bolts, rod caps and rod bearings, all need to installed with extreme precision. Proper torque and torque sequence is absolute mandatory precision. Done right, they should live forever. Done wrong, they die fast, and (as in this case) take a lot of rotating mass "associates" with them in collateral damage.
The bolt in the oil pan here is quite telling, and embarrassing to all parties except Zack. The reason Zack hired a precision builder is solely for this precision, and this builder blew it.
It is just this plain and simple stupid, careless. It's like right up there with draining all your brake fluid from the car just to save the weight of that fluid 'cause you're only using the brakes to stop the car. Obviously...And for what ever reason, the engine builder fu*ked up, period. And there is no reason for concern for any of us who are not his customers. I believe the builder knows exactly what happened, but only he knows exactly why.
The truth of this event is that when you explore "out side the box" on any automobile, you place yourself in the hands of the "pros". We take comfort in the fact that the "pros" have more experience, more knowledge, and are more careful than the rest of usm but in reality, the "pros" are no different from doctors, lawyers, even the computer geeks at Best Buy.
You're taking a chance on quality, and everyone has a "bad day".
martyo
08-28-2006, 05:48 PM
I sure would like to know what the engine builder had to say for himself. Mac??
Joe Walsh
08-28-2006, 05:57 PM
I sure would like to know what the engine builder had to say for himself. Mac??
"OOPS!"......:o
Inexcusable for a professional engine builder to forget to torque the rod cap bolts.
SergntMac
08-28-2006, 06:16 PM
I sure would like to know what the engine builder had to say for himself. Mac??So would I, Martin, but I haven't spoken with him myself, so, I cannot answer for him and I do not mean to.
I was just trying to cover some of the basics involved, per the question asked.
That said, seems like everyone gets permission for a "bad hair day", it's what we allow for these days, eh?
merc6
08-28-2006, 06:20 PM
was there towing costs or did it happen in the driveway?
SergntMac
08-28-2006, 06:28 PM
Garage....
Agent M79
08-28-2006, 06:31 PM
Good info, Mac. Thanks.
That's one hell of an 'as-is' purchase. Yikes.
martyo
08-28-2006, 07:30 PM
That said, seems like everyone gets permission for a "bad hair day", it's what we allow for these days, eh?
The true test is how they take the frizz out of the hair afterward. I will be curious to see how that turns out.
I have personally been down this path and decent follow up results were obtained.
I sure would like to know what the engine builder had to say for himself. Mac??
We are working it out now.
We are working it out now.
I hope it all works out for you.
gpfarrell
08-29-2006, 06:48 PM
Zack,
Sorry to see your set backs, but your progress is very impressive.
Years ago I spun the rear main bearing on a 5.0 that had just been built. I had paid a friend of mine to do the work and initially the car ran awesome for 3 days. Actually, the motor wasn't "built", the bottom end/pistons/rings were all left alone... we did heads, cam, etc.
The motor developed a weird vibration after 3 days of me whoppin' on it, and he and I spent months trying to trace it down. We thought it was clutch/tranny related because the clutch never seemed to completely disengage. We swapped several T-5s through it, but no improvement. We disconnected all the serpentine accessories, but no improvement. The motor pulled hard and ran great, just had a vibration.
Finally, he tore into it and we found the rear main spun for no apparent reason... it certainly isn't a weak spot on 302s.
It wasn't until we were bolting up the next engine and bellhousing to the tranny that he found it... my 128,000 mile bell housing had warped. Since it warped over time, the original engine and tranny just tolerated it. But the fresh engine and fresh tranny couldn't, so bang.
That could have been a bad ending, but we're better friends than ever. After discovering the spun bearing, the mechanic said to me, "It's not looking good for the home team". Home team is what stuck in my mind... building cars shouldn't be about man vs man, its men vs nature. The more tolerant we are of bad outcomes from the best intentions, the better we'll do at beating nature, and she is a mother.
Judging by your responses, I don't think you need any of this advice. We all hope the engine builder treats you right, but I hope you and he can stay on the same "home team", because lighting into each other won't help your car or you.
Best of luck... can't wait to hear that screwy thing scream!
G
ckadiddle
08-30-2006, 07:27 AM
Yikes! Sorry to see that.
Glenn
08-30-2006, 05:57 PM
Sorry, but Zack's engine builder made a gross negligent building error. Rod and crank bearings are torqued in stages. Not to even have a bearing cap bolt tightened is inexcusable. Zack has the engine builder dead to rights. Replace the complete engine as new or see you in court. But, I sense the builder will owe up to his responsibilities because the error is so blatant and happened at start-up he will probably do the right thing.
Glenn
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