Help! Stud & Girdle/Gear Question tonight

[Svashtar]

Guys,

Thanks to you I pointed my dealer to the bad RR wheel bearing. He wasted a day insisting it was the tire making noise, and finally conceded it was either the bearing or the race making the thrumming sound.

I am taking it in tomorrow. Says he needs 1/2 day.

Q: Does the TA performance Stud & Girdle kit have to be installed a specific way, or does it just screw on with the allen screws? I noticed 2 larger center allen screws and don't know what those are for. My Ford tech installed it, but this is being done under warranty by the dealer and I don't want him botching it.

Also, I believe it is called friction modifier that was added to the diff oil when the 4:10's were put in. Does that have to be added each time?

The service guy made it sound easy: remove the stud & girdle cover, slide the axle out, undo a C clip and remove and replace bearing.

Bottom line, if I get any feeling at all that this guy doesn't know what he's doing I'll just pay my mechanic to do it right.

Thanks as always for any info.

Norm

[Joe Walsh]

The two larger center 'jack' screws on the girdle cover are used to back-up the differential main saddles.
They must be torqued (a very low torque value if I recall) and then locked in place with the outer lock nut.
The preloaded bolts help support the main saddles under hard acceleration, when the differential tries to push its way out the back of the rear end housing.

Yes, you should use the nasty smelling, green friction modifier whenever you change the rearend fluid. It helps the traction-lok work smoothly without any chattering.

[fastblackmerc]

Yes, you should use the nasty smelling, green friction modifier whenever you change the rearend fluid. It helps the traction-lok work smoothly without any chattering.
Or you can use Redline fluid which has the modifier already added to it.

[Joe Walsh]

Or you can use Redline fluid which has the modifier already added to it.

True Dat!!!

That's eactly what I did when I installed my T/A girdle.

[Svashtar]

Thanks guys! I'll do a search for TA and try and find the torque values. My install instructions are long gone. I appreciate the info. :beer:

Norm

[jabo731]

Svashtar if you go under Reviews on this sight and then click on Gears and Rear ends you will see TA girdle instructions with all the torque specs.

[Svashtar]

Svashtar if you go under Reviews on this sight and then click on Gears and Rear ends you will see TA girdle instructions with all the torque specs.
Thanks very much. A search here found this from Mike Poore:

1 Drain rear end of gear oil and remove stock cover.
2 Check all internal components for visible excessive wear, cracks, etc.
3 If using the OPTIONAL Bearing Cap Stud Kit do the following:
A. Remove original bolts holding the caps
B. Install Studs, and torque studs in to the housing to 10ft/lbs (120
in/lbs)
C. Re-Install bearing caps and torque nuts to 60-75ft/lbs,
4 Thoroughly clean the gasket surface of the housing.
5 For best results we recommend running a bottoming tap
through each bolt position. This will ensure that each bolt torques properly.
6 Back Load Bolts out to clear the bearing caps ,but do not remove them, failing to do so may damage the cover or bearing caps.
7 Install the 74 Performance Rear End Girdle with the supplied gasket, bolts and washers.
8 Torque the mounting bolts to 25ft/lb
9 Screw the two load bolts in by hand until they make contact with the bearing caps.
10 Torque the load bolts to 5 ft/lbs (60 in/lbs) MAXIMUM, excessive torque will result in distorted bearing caps. DO NOT OVER TORQUE THE LOAD BOLTS! Then snug the jamb nuts to lock the Load Bolt.
11 Fill the rear end with gear oil using the provided fill hole on the TA Rear
Cover, until fluid runs out of the factory fill hole on the side of the
differential case.

***************

I have no idea what the optional bearing caps are or if I have them, but as they are not stock and I don't think come with the TA Performance S&G kit then I guess I don't.

But now reading these instructions I see that I'm screwed. There is no way in a million years my hack dealer will be able to figure this out. Today the mechanic and service guy there told me that R & R of the "aluminum diff cover" would be just as fast and easy as the stock cover, which is why I asked in the first place. Idiots.

Guess I'll just have to pay to have it done by my mechanic.

Many thanks in any case. I almost think I could do this myself if I had the bearing...

Norm

[fastblackmerc]

OPTIONAL Bearing Cap Stud Kit

I have no idea what the optional bearing caps are or if I have them, but as they are not stock and I don't think come with the TA Performance S&G kit then I guess I don't.

Norm
Norm, It actually a Bearing Cap Stud Kit. It replaces the bearing cap bolts with studs (4) and nuts (4). The whole job is very easy to do provided you have a torque wrench.

[Svashtar]

Norm, It actually a Bearing Cap Stud Kit. It replaces the bearing cap bolts with studs (4) and nuts (4). The whole job is very easy to do provided you have a torque wrench.

Guess I should have had that installed when I had the TA performance cover installed. They sound like a belt & suspenders thing? A little extra insurance for the bearing caps?

Does TA Performance also sell this kit?

Thanks,

Norm

[fastblackmerc]

Don't know if TA Performance sells them but you can get them from any Ford Racing Parts dealer. Cheap insurance.

[Svashtar]

Don't know if TA Performance sells them but you can get them from any Ford Racing Parts dealer. Cheap insurance.

You know, I don't even know what I have! If I have the TA performance "Stud & Girdle Kit" then I already have this installed. I ordered this from Dennis 2 years ago, so I'm sure I have the package installed. I was just confusing myself with the reference to the bearing cap studs as something different.

Sorry for the confusion!

Thanks,

Norm

[Svashtar]

FYI, bit the bullet and took it in WITH a copy of Mike's instructions from the Review site here. Once again this site saved my A$$.

The service rep looked at them and hemmed and hawed about the "difficult" girdle install, who went and asked the tech who said no problem.

They replaced the RR bearing AND the axle, as they found it pitted badly. Luckily they had an extra axle in stock. The tech told me at the end of the day he just followed the instructions I gave him, but working al LM had never done one of the Ford SVT ones yet.

The work order says bearing, seal (?), axle, fluid and additive.

I got under there and it looks OK, all tight and clean. I sure as hell hope he didn't overtorque things, but I'm just a worrisome SOB.

FINALLY, I drove it, and the whumping sound is gone. There is an almost inaudible continuous even sound back there I never paid attention to before, but I figure that's as designed and just the bearing-on-axle sound that I am attuned to now.

Thanks to everyone for all your excellent help as always.

Norm