vegasmarauder
05-20-2003, 02:12 AM
Alarm Install in MM
I installed a factory Ford alarm system in my 300B MM. The kit part # is 2W7Z-19A361-BA. You also want to get the install instruction CD # 2W7Z-16A901-AA. You may want to also get a 2W7J-19G366-AA tilt switch for the hood, or you can use a F3LY-15A552-A Trunk lamp mercury switch for a 93 Crown Victoria. The ‘93 switch mounts with two holes, but you need a 2-wire connector to plug into it. It has the right angle for the hood tilt when the hood is down in case you park on a steep angle.
If you don’t order the CD, Ford can send/fax you the instructions for your model year. Ask them to also send the first 38 pages as this is the basic install and programing instructions. Then ask for all the wiring diagrams for the CV/Marquis. You won’t use them all, but it may make sense of some of the other wires. If you get the instructions and look at them it also gives part numbers and items to install the remote start with the alarm. Best to get the instructions and then you can figure out what else you need to install the R/start.
This kit is for the perimeter security only. You keep your existing PATS and remotes, and it works with the door keyless entry pad too.
To make the alarm disarm the trunk is opened order harness “C”, part # 2W7J-19A206-AA or you can just take one of the unused wires from the main alarm harness and move it to the pin for the trunk disarm.
By the way, if you want an alarm for a non-alarmed car then kit #2W7Z-19A361-CA works. It has remote transmitters and all the other stuff in the kit. That’s going on my ‘99 C/V P/I.
The install is fairly easy. The brain goes up next to the PCM under the dash. The wires are tapped into the light switch harness behind the light switch and the left kick panel harness. The only wire to be cut is the starter motor wire for the starter disable. This alarm uses the car horns when activated or you can also put another siren to go off with the horns. The hood tilt switch goes next to the left hood hinge, and you can hide the wires in the factory hood light harness so no one can see them. Unless you know to look, you can’t notice the switch. I used the Crown Victoria switch because it looks just like a factory installined switch to work the hood light.
Some things that are not in the instructions. To make the alarm disarm when the trunk is opened with the remote (or keyless entry door pad) you have to either use only wire C-7 on the C harness or take one of the extra unused wires from the main one and put it on pin C-7. The instructions explain each pin in each alarm harness. There are 24 wires in the main harness, but you will only use 12 of them. The others are for other vehicles. I just take them out of the connector to clean up the looks. Don’t hook up the A-3 dome light output wire, the factory keyless entry module handles the dome lights on and off. Also the instructions say to put the park light alarm fuse on the positive terminals, but the MM lights are Negative ground, so the fuse has to go to the neg position (reading the instructions will help this make sense). The programming is the hardest part. To program the shock sensors you have to open and close the driver door to make it advance to the next programming feature. The CD didn’t explain this, but the manual in the alarm kit did. Also you have to set the “entry Delay” feature on the lights to give you time to disarm the alarm with the keypad.
I have pictures in the modifications gallery to show how I hid the alarm LED next to the PATS led on the dash. I didn’t want an extra hole. Both LEDS fit under the cover of the PATS LED. After you carefully get the PATS LED apart, file a slot for the wires to exit the PATS LED when you slide it back together. I filed the PATS LED hole bigger and then gently pushed the PATS LED to one side to fit the alarm LED next to it (see gallery picture). You have to shave some of the alarm LED off to make it small enough to fit under the PATS cover. Hold the alarm LED up to the light and you can see how much to take off without damaging the alarm LED.
The cool thing about this is the alarm sets anytime you activate the electric door lock motor. Lock is to arm and unlock disarms. You can change the setting to auto arm, but if you are sitting in the car with the key off it will arm in one minute. When the alarm goes off it disables the interior door lock switches so no one can disarm it after breaking in.
This won’t stop them from taking it if they want to, but it adds a little piece of mind.
Jim
I installed a factory Ford alarm system in my 300B MM. The kit part # is 2W7Z-19A361-BA. You also want to get the install instruction CD # 2W7Z-16A901-AA. You may want to also get a 2W7J-19G366-AA tilt switch for the hood, or you can use a F3LY-15A552-A Trunk lamp mercury switch for a 93 Crown Victoria. The ‘93 switch mounts with two holes, but you need a 2-wire connector to plug into it. It has the right angle for the hood tilt when the hood is down in case you park on a steep angle.
If you don’t order the CD, Ford can send/fax you the instructions for your model year. Ask them to also send the first 38 pages as this is the basic install and programing instructions. Then ask for all the wiring diagrams for the CV/Marquis. You won’t use them all, but it may make sense of some of the other wires. If you get the instructions and look at them it also gives part numbers and items to install the remote start with the alarm. Best to get the instructions and then you can figure out what else you need to install the R/start.
This kit is for the perimeter security only. You keep your existing PATS and remotes, and it works with the door keyless entry pad too.
To make the alarm disarm the trunk is opened order harness “C”, part # 2W7J-19A206-AA or you can just take one of the unused wires from the main alarm harness and move it to the pin for the trunk disarm.
By the way, if you want an alarm for a non-alarmed car then kit #2W7Z-19A361-CA works. It has remote transmitters and all the other stuff in the kit. That’s going on my ‘99 C/V P/I.
The install is fairly easy. The brain goes up next to the PCM under the dash. The wires are tapped into the light switch harness behind the light switch and the left kick panel harness. The only wire to be cut is the starter motor wire for the starter disable. This alarm uses the car horns when activated or you can also put another siren to go off with the horns. The hood tilt switch goes next to the left hood hinge, and you can hide the wires in the factory hood light harness so no one can see them. Unless you know to look, you can’t notice the switch. I used the Crown Victoria switch because it looks just like a factory installined switch to work the hood light.
Some things that are not in the instructions. To make the alarm disarm when the trunk is opened with the remote (or keyless entry door pad) you have to either use only wire C-7 on the C harness or take one of the extra unused wires from the main one and put it on pin C-7. The instructions explain each pin in each alarm harness. There are 24 wires in the main harness, but you will only use 12 of them. The others are for other vehicles. I just take them out of the connector to clean up the looks. Don’t hook up the A-3 dome light output wire, the factory keyless entry module handles the dome lights on and off. Also the instructions say to put the park light alarm fuse on the positive terminals, but the MM lights are Negative ground, so the fuse has to go to the neg position (reading the instructions will help this make sense). The programming is the hardest part. To program the shock sensors you have to open and close the driver door to make it advance to the next programming feature. The CD didn’t explain this, but the manual in the alarm kit did. Also you have to set the “entry Delay” feature on the lights to give you time to disarm the alarm with the keypad.
I have pictures in the modifications gallery to show how I hid the alarm LED next to the PATS led on the dash. I didn’t want an extra hole. Both LEDS fit under the cover of the PATS LED. After you carefully get the PATS LED apart, file a slot for the wires to exit the PATS LED when you slide it back together. I filed the PATS LED hole bigger and then gently pushed the PATS LED to one side to fit the alarm LED next to it (see gallery picture). You have to shave some of the alarm LED off to make it small enough to fit under the PATS cover. Hold the alarm LED up to the light and you can see how much to take off without damaging the alarm LED.
The cool thing about this is the alarm sets anytime you activate the electric door lock motor. Lock is to arm and unlock disarms. You can change the setting to auto arm, but if you are sitting in the car with the key off it will arm in one minute. When the alarm goes off it disables the interior door lock switches so no one can disarm it after breaking in.
This won’t stop them from taking it if they want to, but it adds a little piece of mind.
Jim