Synthetic oil needed?

[Motorhead350]

Now that I have my second engine I was wondering if Moble 1 5W20 would be a good choice. I used to use Castrol GTX and it was fine, but I was thinking of switching to Moble 1. I know some of you stay with a certian type and others buy the cheapest they can find. Just wanna know if synthetic is a must, but as for now it's stock... maybe I need it down the road after a power adder. Thoughts?

[DEFYANT]

You just don't know when to quit.

Do you know which supercharger your going with yet?

[Motorhead350]

Yes, but I'm not going to start another war and say what supercharger and why. Back on topic what about the oil? Again this is concerning the STOCK engine, don't worry about a supercharger yet.

[KillJoy]

Stock engines DO NOT require oil.

KillJoy

[Motorhead350]

By oil I hope you mean Synthetic. :D

[KillJoy]

By oil I hope you mean Synthetic. :D

No..... you engine does not require ANY oil what-so-ever.....coolant either.

KillJoy

[Motorhead350]

O yea I forgot I ordered that specail engine that runs on hopes and dreams and I'm never in short supply of those.

[the_pack_rat]

:drink: :popcorn: :popcorn: :drink:

[ex00p71]

Well my advice to you would be to look in you owners manual for what comes stock, for a fairly stock engine that should work just fine.

I use Motorcraft semi-synthetic blend in my Ford.

[fastblackmerc]

Semi-syn is fine.... so is full-syn....

[DEFYANT]

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y193/Defyant/168342605044d9532e5e438.jpg




Mobil 1 is the best oil ever made. All other oils suck. I know because the internet says so!


:rolleyes:

[TooManyFords]

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y193/Defyant/168342605044d9532e5e438.jpg




This would make a GREAT Avatar!

LOL!

john

[Donny Carlson]

O yea I forgot I ordered that specail engine that runs on hopes and dreams and I'm never in short supply of those.



Too bad you didn't check the box next to bull*****

[LILALLEYKATT]

Its nice to be able to go beyond a change interval if an emergency comes up and you have to make a road trip. Mobil 1 or Royal Purple

[Bigdogjim]

Now that I have my second engine I was wondering if Moble 1 5W20 would be a good choice. I used to use Castrol GTX and it was fine, but I was thinking of switching to Moble 1. I know some of you stay with a certian type and others buy the cheapest they can find. Just wanna know if synthetic is a must, but as for now it's stock... maybe I need it down the road after a power adder. Thoughts?

Fair question I feel that with as many moving parts as D.O.H.C. engines have full synthetic is the best bet. My take on this Pensoil brand. It is not a must to use synthetic just a good move on your part. Just pick one asn stay with it.

[RF Overlord]

...maybe I need it down the road after a power adder. If my motor was stock, I'd be using Motorcraft 5W-20 without question. MC 5W-20 is turning out excellent UOAs in the Ford modular motors, and others as well.

It is not necessary to pick an oil and stick with it. You can swap anytime you like. Your plan to switch to a full synthetic if you install a power adder is a good one; I believe the additional stress on a stock lower end warrants the superior protection of a full synth. I currently use Mobil 1...another good choice is the new Pennzoil Platinum.

Although you didn't ask about filters, I'll recommend 3: Motorcraft, Motorcraft, and Motorcraft.

[Bigdogjim]

If my motor was stock, I'd be using Motorcraft 5W-20 without question. MC 5W-20 is turning out excellent UOAs in the Ford modular motors, and others as well.

Note I Disagree. I am not saying you or any one else is wrong.

It's just that with more moving parts in a D.O.H.C. engine it would be wise to use a full synthetic as opposed to a blend.

Yes 5W-20 blend is turning out excellent numbers as I am tracking several 5.4L engines in E-350 work vans

[Loco1234]

I personally like Royal Purple.

It works as good if not better than mobil 1.

....And it also have a purple color because if you have a leak anywhere you can use an ultraviolet light to make the oil glow. This obviously lets you track the source of the oil leak easier.

Purple additive is in all Royal Purple products....(water wetter etc...)

http://www.royalpurple.com/prodsa/auto.html

[jimlam56]

How about synthetic Kerosene?

[the_pack_rat]

How about synthetic Kerosene?

Now now ... lets be serious.

:nono:

Synthetic kerosene would not be very cost effective.

Canola - vegetable or peanut would get the job done ... and be much cheaper.

If extra performance is desired at the track ...

Add 1oz of 2 cycle oil for every 4 gallons of gas.

If you really want to smoke the competition ....

Take out not one headlight but both ... as well as both taillights.

Whatever air doesn't make it into the intake, will then have a direct path going into the front & exiting out of the rear of the car ..... which will lower the overall drag coefficient.

[magindat]

Personally, I think changing the oil is over-rated.
First, you have to raise the Agnostic Front end, and lie on the ground like Dead Milkmen. Then, you have to open the plug by turning it with Circle Jerks. Don't lose the plug cuz The Replacements are hard to find. Don't drink the used oil, it could give you Bad Brains. Next, you must remove The Damned filter and that can be pure Anarchy. If you get any oil on yourself, wipe it off with your Black Flag. Finally, you have to lean over and poor the oil and that gives me The Cramps. But I Fear if I don't do it, the engine might have Suicidal Tendencies....

[SergntMac]

Dominick...Use the least expensive 5W20 you can find. For me, that's Motorcraft or Quaker State. Change the oil every 2500-3000 miles.

The best oil is clean oil, and an aggressive drain plan should cost you under 150 bucks per year.

[ScottB]

If you are using gasohol like most everyone else these days you might want to consider an oil that is formulated to resist alcohol contamination.

Just an example, not an endorsement, is Valvoline VR1. Unfortunately these types of motor oils are usually not meant for extended use. And they are not always available in the lighter viscosities you would want.

[RF Overlord]

ScottB, I mean no disrespect, but Valvoline VR1 would NOT be a good choice for the MM. It is available in only 2 viscosities, 10W-30 and 20W-50. The 20W-50 would be a very bad choice indeed, and even the 10W-30 is thick, with a 40°C viscosity of 77 cSt. This might be acceptable in the hottest southern-most states, but for most of us cold-start valvetrain wear would be greatly increased.

Alcohol contamination from E-10 fuel should not be of any consequence in a motor in sound mechanical condition.

[Motorhead350]

Personally, I think changing the oil is over-rated.
First, you have to raise the Agnostic Front end, and lie on the ground like Dead Milkmen. Then, you have to open the plug by turning it with Circle Jerks. Don't lose the plug cuz The Replacements are hard to find. Don't drink the used oil, it could give you Bad Brains. Next, you must remove The Damned filter and that can be pure Anarchy. If you get any oil on yourself, wipe it off with your Black Flag. Finally, you have to lean over and poor the oil and that gives me The Cramps. But I Fear if I don't do it, the engine might have Suicidal Tendencies....

Nice, but you left out The Clash that you will get when your going down the road like a Screeching Weasel. As you are passing The Queers you will recieve a Minor Threat and you'll have to resort to Operation Ivy.

Thanks for the advice everyone I have made my decision as to what to use.

[Blackened300a]

I was using Quaker State 5w20 until I started Modding, Then its Mobil1 full synthetic 5w20 with either a motorcraft,Fram or a K&N oil filter.
I have all also used the Valvoline 5w20 Synthetic and it seems to get darker faster then the Mobil1 when used both were used with a Motorcraft filter.

[Bigdogjim]

Dominick...Use the least expensive 5W20 you can find. For me, that's Motorcraft or Quaker State. Change the oil every 2500-3000 miles.

The best oil is clean oil, and an aggressive drain plan should cost you under 150 bucks per year.

Mac your a very smart man when it comes to cars. I this case your just tossing money away, Try doing some oil samples and see what is really going on.

That least expensive 5W-20 can hold 6-8,000 miles.

[magindat]

Nice, but you left out The Clash that you will get when your going down the road like a Screeching Weasel. As you are passing The Queers you will recieve a Minor Threat and you'll have to resort to Operation Ivy.

Thanks for the advice everyone I have made my decision as to what to use.

Fargin oil threads....
needed some humor

[RR|Suki]

I use 5w-30. But that's cuz my engine builder said so... so do what your engine builder said (ford)

[ScottB]

ScottB, I mean no disrespect, but Valvoline VR1 would NOT be a good choice for the MM. It is available in only 2 viscosities, 10W-30 and 20W-50. The 20W-50 would be a very bad choice indeed, and even the 10W-30 is thick, with a 40°C viscosity of 77 cSt. This might be acceptable in the hottest southern-most states, but for most of us cold-start valvetrain wear would be greatly increased.

Alcohol contamination from E-10 fuel should not be of any consequence in a motor in sound mechanical condition.


Definitely, that is why I noted the disclaimer about viscosities; I was just pointing out that some oils are formulated to resist alcohol contamination or fuel contamination in general (although one method unfortunately is to make them thicker).

No disrespect taken, that was a good thing to point out for clarification.