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LCSO34
09-30-2006, 06:33 PM
I had been having a problem with hesitation and coughing esp when under load (ie, going uphill) checked everything and cleaned the IAC and throttle body. Decided to change the plugs and lo and behold. Well I have owned the car since Jan 2005, 20000 miles, bought it used from the same dealer that originally sold it, it now has 53000 on it. The burnt plug is the odd man out not only is it burnt, it has 32P, unlike the others 32EM. I almost couldn't get it out. I would like some of the more knowledgable to offer their thoughts and musings upon such plug or engine problems that might arise. It does run fine now except my stupid ass didn't remember to plug the MAF back in. :D Thanks in advance.
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/2/5/7/2/P9300006.JPGhttp://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/2/5/7/2/P9300012.JPG

pantheroc
09-30-2006, 06:40 PM
The gap looks slightly bigger on the odd ball also.

LCSO34
09-30-2006, 06:47 PM
Bingo, forgot to add that the good ones were within the .052-.056 range, bad one was +.060. Maybe that caused it to go bad.

LCSO34
10-02-2006, 04:57 PM
Bump Bump

Bueller

Bueller

ckadiddle
10-03-2006, 07:45 AM
I'm no mechanic, but I'll bet someone ran out of the correct ones and stuck in a "substitute" at the factory or somewhere else before you got your hands on the car. Worked OK for a while, but not for the long term.

EM= Enhanced Marauder sparkplug
P = Pinto sparkplug
JK, I have no clue what the letters mean. Check with RoyLPita (Brian), if those are Ford part numbers he can probably look them up for ya.

SergntMac
10-03-2006, 09:16 AM
Sure looks like someone slipped you a mickey...At least you found it.

.052 to .056 gap? Sounds a bit wide to me. OTOH, I use Denso IT-20s, (always have) which is pre set at .042.

Don't let me add any confusion to this, I'm just curious about the OEM gap. The stock plugs I recently pulled looked like they we gapped with a nickle...

Drock96Marquis
10-03-2006, 09:30 AM
THose are Motocraft p/ns

AWSF32P =
AWSF = half thread, Modular
32 = Stock heat range
P = Single Platinum

AWSF32EM =
AWSF = half thread, Modular
32 = stock heat range
EM = Double Platinum?

The AWSF32P was a common plug for modulars, and can be used in Marauders. Ford often switches the suffix for Platinum plug, the 'P' suffix has not been used for quite a few years now. An awsf32p plug is old stock, must of been an old plug they had lying around. It is only a single platinum which can explain why it is completely shot, whillst the others are decent.

An old list:
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" width="550"> <tbody><tr><td class="bodytext"><li xmlns:msxsl="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:xslt" class="bodytext">Single Platinum (P & E) <li xmlns:msxsl="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:xslt" class="bodytext">Double Platinum (PP & EE) <li xmlns:msxsl="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:xslt" class="bodytext">Finewire Platinum (F & FE)</td></tr></tbody> </table>

The fact that Ford changes these prefixes all the time makes it a real PITA to figure out what type of plug you have. Also, it is not uncommon to find a combo of AWSF32P and AWSF32PG. (PG was a double plat prefix a while back) THis is mainly with the waste-spark EDIS panthers (pre-98), as only half the plugs wear faster, thus only half need to be double plat.

The Marauder is now speced to use AGSF32WM. AGSF is a full thread plug, either a full or half thread plug can be used in a half-thread modular head. WM is the new Double-plat prefix, apparantly.

The Factory spec for gap is .052-.056, so shoot for 0.054". THose plugs are waering well to be within that range still :)

Meteorite
10-03-2006, 09:56 AM
The burnt plug is the odd man out not only is it burnt, it has 32P, unlike the others 32EM. I almost couldn't get it out.
Here's my conjecture ... I'm guessing the last guy who changed the plugs also had a problem getting that one out and said, The hell with it! Seven new plugs out of eight is close enough.

Breadfan
10-03-2006, 10:03 AM
Here's my conjecture ... I'm guessing the last guy who changed the plugs also had a problem getting that one out and said, The hell with it! Seven new plugs out of eight is close enough.

^^^^^ I agree ^^^^^

Especially since you said it was hard to get out. Lucky the threads didn't strip...

By the way, you did use anti-sieze compound on the threads of the new plugs right? If not, I'd pull them and do that...

SergntMac
10-03-2006, 10:18 AM
Yep...Anti-seize...+1

LCSO34
10-03-2006, 11:17 AM
Thanks for the replys,

Drock--the new plugs are the WM's

Also I did use anti seize when I reinstalled. Thanks

Oh and the specs are are a sticker that's under the hood, I didn't know and the dealership didn't either but the parts guy directed me to the right place.

Drock96Marquis
10-03-2006, 04:21 PM
I like motorcraft plugs, the WMs should give you many miles of great performance :)

Obviosuly over here anti-seize is recommended.

Over on CVN there is TONS of controversy regarding the use of anti-seize on modular cylinder heads.
The basis of the argument is, that the Anti-Seize acts as a lubricant when torqing the plugs.
The Ford torque spec for the plugs is ONLY 11-15lb-ft, and is specified to be used DRY.
The anti-seize can alter the torqing of the plug, and as most know if modular head's plugs aren't torqued right, there is a possibility of sending one out the hood :eek: This would require a heli-coil/bigsert to fix.

Now the opposing argument is that if anti-seize is NOT used, then you risk the plug seizing to the head. Thus upon future removal head damage/galling can occur. This also would require a heli-coil/bigsert to fix.

So to a casual observer, it is a lose/lose situation lol :P IMO, I would just use a very light coat of anti-seize, and then torque to spec. But both sides make valid points.
If you want more info, just go over to CVN (http://www.crownvic.net), type "anti-seize" into the search feature under Technical talk and dated all posts. As you will see this is a long standing debate there


BTW, a personal recommendation, every time you have the COP(s) off put some di-electric grease inside the boot to prevent moisture/misfire issues :)

Drock96Marquis
10-03-2006, 04:31 PM
BTW;

As it turns out AWSF32P plugs were factory installed on 2003 Crown Vics and GMQs. The Marauder had AWSF32EM plugs factory installed as you have pictured.

So, I think that those are/were the factory installed plugs, and someone accidentally dropped a 32P in the 32EM bin @ STAP when your baby was beign assembled! :eek: :P

Power Surge
10-03-2006, 04:50 PM
Factory plugs will have a paint daub on the tip. If the 7 other plugs have the painted tips, they are the stockers.

Often, plugs that come from the factory are not available over the counter with the exact part number. The P plug might have been the listed correct replacement at the time. And if the car had an issue in the past with a miss, and the tech tried changing the plug, then you have the reason why there is one different.

....And, going on that very possible premise, it seems that your car MAY have a problem with that one cylinder. If that plug is fouled, and that one and only plug was changed previously, then I'd say that motor has a problem on that hole. It'll probably run fine for a while again, and then start to foul that plug out down the line.

Personally, I'd put a set of Denso's in it, and NO anti-sieze :D.

SergntMac
10-03-2006, 04:59 PM
This is getting out of hand...

Drock96Marquis
10-03-2006, 05:54 PM
What is getting out of hand, Mac?