98 Cobra block compatability

[2ndMDRebel]

I have a line on a 45K mile Mustang Cobra donor engine (manual trans) for the right price... free... and was wondering if the block was compatible with the '03 Marauder heads.

I'm thinking about using this block for a forged internal buildup (or maybe even bored out to 5.0) and really don't want to have to pull my own engine for several months to get this done.

[juno]

Yes it is compatible. It should be a teksid block and if so it will be a great place to start. What kind of crosshatching does it have? What is the block number? There are a couple of little wrinkles, like knock sensors (those are 12 mm, ours are 8 mm) and the coolant bypass tube connections.. Let me know if you get it.

Make sure you take the pilot bearing out of the crank. :D

[ScottB]

You'll like the drop in weight. I assume the mounting bosses are the same on each side. The heads for sure will mate up. Keep all your accessories right down to the front pump cover, I'm not sure what lines up on the front. Little things like the idler pully bolt and belt tensioner changed slightly since then. Nothing major.

[Power Surge]

You'll like the drop in weight. I assume the mounting bosses are the same on each side. The heads for sure will mate up. Keep all your accessories right down to the front pump cover, I'm not sure what lines up on the front. Little things like the idler pully bolt and belt tensioner changed slightly since then. Nothing major.

What drop in weight?

[ScottB]

Don't you have an iron block now?

[RR|Suki]

Don't you have an iron block now?
marauder blocks aren't iron

[Power Surge]

Don't you have an iron block now?

Well, "I" have an iron block, but the guy asking doesn't.

[ScottB]

D'oh, nevermind.

[DEFYANT]

I think MMs have blocks made from tin foil. Oh, I'm sorry, thats pistons. Nevermind.

[2ndMDRebel]

I think MMs have blocks made from tin foil. Oh, I'm sorry, thats pistons. Nevermind.

That's what failed on this engine, the #3 and #7 pistons wiped out. Poor guy bought the car from Carmax a little over a month ago and only put 300 miles on it when the engine went. His warranty (Maxcare) is sending us a replacement longblock which usually means no core return. The tech wants the heads and I have dibs on the block. After we get it out and apart we can properly assess the condition but he said it doesn't appear to be damaged from what we can tell with the oil pan and pistons out.

Keeping my fingers crossed!

These engines are really starting to scare me... I have a Mach 1 in the shop knocking like mad and we put a Ford reman'd engine in less than a year ago. :eek:

[MikesMerc]

These engines are really starting to scare me... I have a Mach 1 in the shop knocking like mad and we put a Ford reman'd engine in less than a year ago. :eek:

If you do your homework and have the build up done by a competent shop, there is nothing to be afraid of. A modest investment in the right parts and labor now will get you a 4.6 aluminum motor that will live a very long time under some pretty intense power levels.

The aluminum block is sometimes the victim when a 4.6 motor goes, but its seldom the cause. Once you upgrade the pistons and rods to some better after market pieces, you've covered 95% of your weak link in these motors.

If you have money to burn, you can throw in a steel crank too to net you another 2%.

IMO, an iron block is a waste of time (and an un-needed addition of weight to the nose of the car), unless you plan on more than 800rwhp. A well built aluminum block motor, along with the right parts inside and a compentent tune, will net you a safe 800 motor. Mustang guys are already doing this (and more) every day.

The weakness in our motors is the rods and pistons. They can stand up to a decent amount of abuse, but unless the tune is very conservative, they'll begin giving up the ghost in the 475 to 500 rwhp (you can certainly run that level for a while, but you may be on borrowed time). Swap to some aftermarket rods and pistons, and you'll be good to go.