Help in designing a Sub enclosure.

[TooManyFords]

With the great info on Infinite Baffles, it is clear I'm not going to go that route. So, I need suggestions and help in designing the correct enclosure for my Sub and help on where/how to mount it.

First, I'd better get the "receipe" on paper:

(1) Alpine Type-R 10-inch sub, p/n SWR-1042D.
(1) Alpine Mono power amplifier, p/n PDX-1.1000 for the sub.
(1) Alpine 4-Channel power amplifier, p/n PDX-4.150 for the door speakers
(1) Pair JL Audio Speakers, p/n VR525-CSi for the rear package shelf
(1) Pair JL Audio Component Speakers, p/n VR525-CXi for the front doors and included cross-overs.
(1) Alpine Multimedia Manager, p/n PXA-H701 to manage all inputs/outputs
(1) Alpine Controller for H701, p/n RUX-C701 dash mounted controller for H701
(1) CarPC with 2.4GHz Celeron, 1GB Mem, Digital Optical output and 60GB HD
(1) Lilliput 7" Transflective touch screen for in-dash replacement of factory radio.


The JL Audio speakers are self explanatory with the addition of the remote tweeter components for the dash. It is the Sub that I need help with. I will be removing the existing sub and amp package to make room for the new sub, the amps and the CarPC for mounting under the package tray.

What should the sub enclosure look like and how would it get mounted?

Drawings, specs, ports... I know nothing of this.

Anyone want to come install all this for me??

Cheers!

John

[shakes_26]

John,

there are lots of sites out there with info, and I'll throw you a link that has a great forum and some good calculators. You'll need to get the Theile-Small parameters for the sub, these are the specs, plus the sub maker will usually recommend a minimum volume requirement.

Now for the subjective, I feel the 10" will work very well in our cars. I have a 10" Infinity, custom box I made and it is MORE than enough for the car (unless your going for deaf, dumb, or dB awards). I had a ported box built first (no time to DIY), it was okay, but never really 'sharp' and they (them, the infamous 'pros') said a rear facing sub, with port shooting forward was the way to go. WRONG.

I built a new box, sealed, 3/4"mdf, screwed and glued. The sub shoots up, and about half of it is visible through the oem sub 'opening'. It is powered with a JL audio 250/1, it sound nice and tight, sharp bass, turn it up and it cna be felt in the frotn seats. But its not so obnoxious as to rattle the outside of the car. Now I also Dynamatted the rear end of the car and the doors so there may be some help there.

links

http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb3/index.php

http://www.installer.com/wires/index.html

and there is another one called The12volt.com or something like that.

[CRUZTAKER]

Oh Killjoy....:D

[shakes_26]

Oh mounting, well mine just sites there, its wedged in between the spare (full size)and height wise it barely makes it under the lip of the trunk/shelf.

I'll grab pictures later. I really like my amp mounting, needs some more detail work, but I haven't quite found the grille material I am looking for.

[glassman99]

Are you gonna drive it or park it?

[KillJoy]

A member on here got me the hookup in box designing. I will PM him to join in this thread...if he so chooses ;)

KillJoy

[magindat]

John,
I designed an enclosure for Steve (killjoy) right down to the cuts for the wood. All he had to do was assemble.
Will do the same for you, if you so desire.
Here's Steve's:
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/showimage.php?i=2820&c=3&userid=3548 (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/../showcase/showimage.php?i=2820&c=3&userid=3548)
I'd need to know any differences from stock measurements on the package shelf from your 'tubbing' procedure.
Rich

Edit: I'll install for all-expense paid trip. You have to help.

Thanx for the PM, Steve. Always willing to help the family....

[Pops]

jOHN TOU MAY WANT TO LOOK INTO PIONEERS SLIM LINE SUBS AS THEY ONLY NEED .5 CUBIC FT. THEY PLAY GREAT AND TAKE UP VERY LITTLE SPACE. WE USE A LOT OF THEM AT MY STORE. HAVE QUESTIONS PM. GOOD LUCK . JOHN

[merc]

I have some pictures of my marauder sub at home. I will post them later tonight. I have a JL 10' sub that is mounted to the old sub locations. I also have the amp mounted to sub box.

[TooManyFords]

Thanks for the help guys!

The sub is already purchased so I'm going to use that instead of the slim-lines. (thanks for the suggestion, John)

As for the area under the package tray, min looks just about like stock except mine extends into the trunk area by an additional 12 inches. We just moved the tank back to clear the frame mods and covered it level with the original tray area.

The sides of the tray area slant up slightly from the trunk hinges outward. So if we stay between the hinges, everything is identical, and preferred.
What I was hoping for is to mount the sub so that the cone was in the rear package tray somehow (maybe middle?) with the box below it and the port(s) to either side into the passenger compartment. Don't know how that will work really, but since I spent all that hard-earned money on it I kinda wanted it to be seen.

If everyone says that would suck in reality, is there a way to put it in a box with plexiglass so it can still be seen from the trunk?

I'll see if I can find those pictures of my Mountaineer where I had 3 10's in a custom box with the amps in it. I didn't build it so I have no idea what it did. But it looked cool!!

John

[magindat]

I suggest a setup like my own. The sub is completely enclosed in a box. It fires upward into another box shaped like Oklahoma backwards. The sound is then ported through the stock woofer hole. Deep bass, no loss and no trunk rattle. You can, as i did, plexi the rear of the box and see everything. This would be known as a single reflex bandpass.

[ckadiddle]

I suggest a setup like my own. The sub is completely enclosed in a box. It fires upward into another box shaped like Oklahoma backwards. The sound is then ported through the stock woofer hole. Deep bass, no loss and no trunk rattle. You can, as i did, plexi the rear of the box and see everything. This would be known as a single reflex bandpass.
:bows: :bows: :bows:
Back before time began, when I was college-aged, I used to know about stuff like that. Now the words just sound vaguely familiar. :shake: I think fifteen years of computer crud in my head has pushed all the stero/hifi knowledge out the back.

[TooManyFords]

I suggest a setup like my own. The sub is completely enclosed in a box. It fires upward into another box shaped like Oklahoma backwards. The sound is then ported through the stock woofer hole. Deep bass, no loss and no trunk rattle. You can, as i did, plexi the rear of the box and see everything. This would be known as a single reflex bandpass.

Sounds like a plan to me.

Will there be room to mount my amps and carpc under there still? And the NOS bottle somewhere?

Cheers!

john

[magindat]

Depends how big the box has to be for the band pass. Will have to get specs from Alpine.

I think you shouldn't plexi the box. It won't take up your 'double-deep' tray. It'll only be about 1/2 the double depth. Then, everything could go behind it.

[magindat]

PM me if you wanna get a design like this rolling.

[shakes_26]

Hey John here are soem shots of my setup, might give you an idea to go with.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/2/6/2/8/DSC_2619.jpg

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/2/6/2/8/DSC_2620.jpg

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/2/6/2/8/DSC_2621.jpg

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/2/6/2/8/DSC_2622.jpg

I dunno with the tubs your running if you have room.

Anyway good luck!! :beer:

[GreekGod]

Mr. Shakes, I have a JL 500/1 mono amp I'd like to install like your 250/1. Can you give me any tips on your installation? I'm totally confused with the wiring details, especially with the frequency filters in the factory wiring, going to the rear deck speakers.

I have Boston 5x7's in the doors and rear deck. For now, I'd just like to keep the factory radio, and add the JL amp and a sub box, "loose" in the trunk. I have three different sub boxes (with speakers), and they are all good to go with the JL amp.

[marauderpunk24]

do u want a completely different design? I've drawn several and I'll get you multiple looks if you would like.

[GreekGod]

do u want a completely different design? I've drawn several and I'll get you multiple looks if you would like.

I need all the help I can get! I like to "do it myself" and have "done" 3 cars so far, with all good results. I am happy with the factory radio, so far. I am reluctant to "trust" the aftermarket adapters for the steering wheel controls.

My Radio Shack dB meter tells me I like the audio too loud for hearing safety.

[TooManyFords]

Everyone, I am looking for ALL options. If you want to send me drawings, please do so! I would still prefer to be able to see it and not hide it in a box. Either visible on the package tray or in the trunk (with the port through the tray) is fine. I've got the two amps and the carPC that needs to be mounted under the tray in the trun too.

You can send anything to marauder-at-frieltek.com and I'll get it.

Thanks!!

John

[shakes_26]

Mr. Shakes, I have a JL 500/1 mono amp I'd like to install like your 250/1. Can you give me any tips on your installation? I'm totally confused with the wiring details, especially with the frequency filters in the factory wiring, going to the rear deck speakers.

I have Boston 5x7's in the doors and rear deck. For now, I'd just like to keep the factory radio, and add the JL amp and a sub box, "loose" in the trunk. I have three different sub boxes (with speakers), and they are all good to go with the JL amp.

I have an eclipse AVN5435, seperate sub rca output, which feeds the JL amp. I've seen line filters used to go off of the rear speakers, they're available most audio retailers (online or elsewhere). I dont care for them, but they are a useful tool if you dont have a dedicated sub/mono channel from the head unit.

The head unit also provides a turn on signal for the amp (easy nuff), they also make a unit that senses when the speaker level goes live and acts as a turn on for the amp.

Power is brought from the distribution block of the car (near battery, not at battery), fused there, and I added one at the amp as well, just for grins.

The amp is mounted to a .125" aluminum plate I bent with a 90 deg angle. This was then screwed through the floor and the verical support panel in the trunk. I checked fro ground it was good, so I grounded through the panel (made wiring easier, besides the palte has like 5 or 6 ground points).

a place like this will have all kinds of the little bits you need.

http://www.installer.com/acc/index.html

I'm no expert, I think silver2004marauder and Magindat are professional audio/electronics isntallers, they might have better info for you.

and don't call me Mr., I EARN my living ;) (sorry old military thing)