Brake question

[prchrman]

Did not want to hyjack the cracked rotor thread so here goes...I have seen several on here with cracked rotor problems and do not myself want to have rotors with slots or holes...I have had rotors come apart before and did not like the results...if I am thinking right about this the only thing the holes and slots effectively do is to vent gas right?...if I have heard right, the new non-organic pads do not need either slots or holes because there is not enough emitted gas to affect braking performance...some say it is also for heat dispensation?...it does not appear to me the slots and holes should have a big effect on heat transfer during normal operation...at least not the way I run my MM...I am going to change my brakes in the next 6 months and am just looking for a better brake pad...what is the Mac daddy brake pad on the market and does anyone use them now on their OEM rotors and did it improve your braking?...thanks ahead for your info...willie

[FordNut]

My favorite pads are Axxis Metal Masters. I saw a set on ebay awhile back, I'll try to find the ad and send you a link if you're interested.

[magindat]

I'm sure an expert will chime in with more detail, but the basics are:

Slots prevent the gas film between the pad and rotor by sweeping away the film as it builds. Apparently, this issue is more or less pronounced with different pad compounds.

Holes allow hot air to escape from between the two sides of the rotor, thus cooling the rotor more quickly.

[prchrman]

My favorite pads are Axxis Metal Masters. I saw a set on ebay awhile back, I'll try to find the ad and send you a link if you're interested.

Thanks...and yes I am interested...willie

[FordNut]

Thanks...and yes I am interested...willie

See if this link works. The auction ended but you can contact the vendor thru the links.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=016&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=260037093140&rd=1,1

[ckadiddle]

My brake dude put Hawk High Performance Street brake pads on for me with the OEM rotors. He was going to use EBC, but was having trouble getting them in a timely fashion. Stopping is greatly improved, don't seem to be fading issues. I am having intermittent squeaking, but have not had the chance to take it in for him to recheck the brakes and see if anything is outta whack. Frankly, I would still keep these pads even though squeaky due to the increased control over beast. Compared to the OEMs, these will stand me on my nose.

The first really great test for them will be at MVIV drag races. ;)

[Todd TCE]

The drilled and or slot surge of the past ten years or so has been far more cosmetic driven than functionally driven. In the same time pad designs have improved with new friction materials negating the benefits of pad venting in many cases.

Driving a car with one or any combo of these or nothing at all will not produce any noticeable difference. In fact many who run slots or holes complain more on the occasional air sounds they can produce as the pad runs past them. And for those who like clean wheels....any surface treatment tends to wear pads faster so you'll have more dusting.

One or the other won't make your brakes work better like magic. Pad Cf is what it's about. Wiping or venting can help keep the pads clean and clear of gas build up (however small it may be) but back to back driving won't produce any change. Those who experience change get that mainly from the pad of choice. Combine a good pad with some SS hoses and replace a 40k set of old warn out pads and rotors; just about anything will seem to be a huge improvement.

I'm not keen on drilled rotors for anything but mild street use. They'll all crack in due time if exposed to repeated heat cycles. For a daily cruiser go for it if you like the look. For those who push harder and have more heat soak you'd be better off with slots or nothing at all.

[Bradley G]

I went with Oem size Baer Decel and Ford severe duty "cop pads"
I can only compare from stock.
They feel like they grab better.
We'll see how long they last.
I have almost 10K so far no problems, still look OK.
The rear rotors are Ford OEM replacements, they were orange in a few hours!

[AstroVic]

I recommend trying www.commandautomotive (http://www.commandautomotive) cryogenic rotors & Wagner ThermoQuiet pads (from O'Reilly Auto Parts).

The rotors are pretty pricey but they hold up INCREDIBLY well. And the pads work really well on these rotors (with very little dust and noise).

Just my two cents.

[magindat]

The drilled and or slot surge of the past ten years or so has been far more cosmetic driven than functionally driven.....

I knew an expert would weigh in. Thanx, Todd.



Combine a good pad with some SS hoses...

Just did this. KVR's from Reinhart. Works great! Improved pedal feel and reduced pedal effort by about 1/3.



I went with Oem size Baer Decel...

Me too. Bear Decela Front and Rear with Akebono cermaic pads and KVR stainless lines. This has turned out to be a very confident braking system.
I have almost 25K on the Decelas and Akebonos and no problems at all.

Of Note: Bear Decela Fronts have 3 year warranty against warping and cracking.

[prchrman]

The drilled and or slot surge of the past ten years or so has been far more cosmetic driven than functionally driven. In the same time pad designs have improved with new friction materials negating the benefits of pad venting in many cases.

Driving a car with one or any combo of these or nothing at all will not produce any noticeable difference. In fact many who run slots or holes complain more on the occasional air sounds they can produce as the pad runs past them. And for those who like clean wheels....any surface treatment tends to wear pads faster so you'll have more dusting.

One or the other won't make your brakes work better like magic. Pad Cf is what it's about. Wiping or venting can help keep the pads clean and clear of gas build up (however small it may be) but back to back driving won't produce any change. Those who experience change get that mainly from the pad of choice. Combine a good pad with some SS hoses and replace a 40k set of old warn out pads and rotors; just about anything will seem to be a huge improvement.

I'm not keen on drilled rotors for anything but mild street use. They'll all crack in due time if exposed to repeated heat cycles. For a daily cruiser go for it if you like the look. For those who push harder and have more heat soak you'd be better off with slots or nothing at all.

Todd...thanks and U being the big brake dude do you have a particular pad you like?...willie

[99SVT]

One of the other benefits of slotted rotors is a better initial bite when you hit the brakes, since the slots cut away at the pads every time they pass by. Helps in braking, but the drawbacks are increased wear, extra heat, more brake dust. It all comes down to personal preferance and what you're willing to toerate.

[DEFYANT]

I went with Oem size Baer Decel and Ford severe duty "cop pads"
I can only compare from stock.
They feel like they grab better.
We'll see how long they last.
I have almost 10K so far no problems, still look OK.
The rear rotors are Ford OEM replacements, they were orange in a few hours!

FYI, when I had the marked car and was on the road, I'd run through brakes at around 20K miles.

They never let me down either. I had those puppies smokin hot. I mean, drove hard! Got to where I was going and parked it. Brakes smokin and stinkin up the place. I only got them so hot that they faded out once. Worse thing you could do is park a car with very hot brakes, right?

I'd return and drive off with no troubles at all! I should have considered that route.

[DEFYANT]

Todd...thanks and U being the big brake dude do you have a particular pad you like?...willie


+1

What do you suggest I go with. The new Baer slotted rotors should be here this Friday

[HotrodMerc]

FYI, when I had the marked car and was on the road, I'd run through brakes at around 20K miles.

They never let me down either. I had those puppies smokin hot. I mean, drove hard! Got to where I was going and parked it. Brakes smokin and stinkin up the place. I only got them so hot that they faded out once. Worse thing you could do is park a car with very hot brakes, right?

I'd return and drive off with no troubles at all! I should have considered that route.

Defyant, were you using OEM pads, or what, on said marked car?

Question for Magindat, since not stated otherwise i am assuming you are using stock size rotors? And too, that the Baer Decela's are plain, no holes or grooves?

Other 2 cents: i know a guy who has done a lot of racing in NASA in his fully prepared '90 Mustang, as well as a lot of open track time. He told me definitely do not go with slotted or drilled rotors - won't hold up as well with really hard use. I had a pair of overpriced dimpled rotors on my '90 GT, stock 11" size with Performance Friction carbon pads, cracked on the road course just like stock.
Got the MM on the road course in June just to see how it handled. Brakes (stock pads) sucked, didn't push them until they went entirely, but could tell they were heading there very quickly. If all of the rotors you guys are referring to above are stock size, i am glad to hear that. If any of them are not stock size, what are they? Thanks.

Probably the only worse thing than parking with steaming hot brakes and leaving it there is to apply your parking brake, then try to get it loose later.
Of course what Defyant is referring to is that it is a good idea to let the hot brakes sit just a minute or so then move the car a little so the pads aren't sitting in the same spot. Best is to do a cruising cool down before parking.