Engine Assembly Procedure (Bottom End)

[Loco1234]

Are there any deviations or changes from the Ford manual shown below anyone suggests....
Any good ideas etc....

*EDIT* Im sorry I listed the pages in reverse order... please view pages from bottom of post to top... LOL
once again sorry...

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thanks for any help or suggestions of merit....

[juno]

I have no experience with putting the short block together, but when you get to reinstalling the top end, let me know!!!

[Power Surge]

The Ford stuff is pretty good. I'd suggest switching to main and head studs instead of the factory bolts. If you plan to stick with the factory bolts, you HAVE to replace the main bolts, the head bolts, AND the side bolts. They are TTY style and cannot be reused. If you go with main studs, they don't come with new side bolts, so you'll need a set of new side bolts either way.

[Loco1234]

Thank you exactly the kind of information Im hopeing to find out now rather then in the middle of assembly.... (with a Local builder)

Does anyone have a lead on new studs as mentioned in thread above...? Maybe "ARP" will carry them....?

[Power Surge]

Yes, ARP makes them for the mod motors. Make sure you specify DOHC.

[juno]

Contact modularpowerhouse.com or modularmustangracing.com. They use ARP fasteners in almost everything they build. They can sell you a complete set or give you some info. Definitely go with ARP over the ford stuff if you are in there. It will hold up better if you want to make power and are reuseable.
Dennis Reinhart could probably help you out also and he is a site vendor.
What are you doing to the block??

[Loco1234]

Im going with a 5.1 Billet VT engines rotating assembly and new rods, pistons complete setup... but it will be put into my block by a local (but reputable) engine builder... he is simply not super familiar withthe 4.6l engine and wanted to saok up every bit of info I can to make the build happen once and happen correctly...

The heads have already been redune by Fox Lake....

[Loco1234]

The Ford stuff is pretty good. I'd suggest switching to main and head studs instead of the factory bolts. If you plan to stick with the factory bolts, you HAVE to replace the main bolts, the head bolts, AND the side bolts. They are TTY style and cannot be reused. If you go with main studs, they don't come with new side bolts, so you'll need a set of new side bolts either way.


Anyone have the part # for the side bolts mention above....?
I plan to order them directly from ARP if possible.
I already have new Arps bolts for the other locations as part of other kits...

*ARP* said they need a diameter and size etc of these side bolts......

Thanx!!!!

[Power Surge]

They don't make the side bolts, you have to use a new OEM set (unless they came out with them recently, but I don't think so).

[Loco1234]

oh.... ok I miss understood earlier response...

I thought you ment I should purchase the ARP side bolts as well as the the ARP Main bolts.....

I found out from a couple places includeing ARP they are not available...

although ARP said if I send them the bolt they will make it...
I have heard and now tend to believe that is not nessecary....

[Power Surge]

oh.... ok I miss understood earlier response...

I thought you ment I should purchase the ARP side bolts as well as the the ARP Main bolts.....

I found out from a couple places includeing ARP they are not available...

although ARP said if I send them the bolt they will make it...
I have heard and now tend to believe that is not nessecary....

Yeah, you can just use a NEW set of factory side bolts. That's what we do on all our motors.

[Loco1234]

Ya thats what Im gonna do....
Is there anything else I should look into doing...?
Im looking to build the motor right....

My Stroker Crank came in from VT and it isn't polished and the oil holes aren't chamfered....
It was supposed to be though...ARG...
now I need to get that done... Is getting it Cyro'd worth while...?

[FordNut]

Ya thats what Im gonna do....
Is there anything else I should look into doing...?
Im looking to build the motor right....

My Stroker Crank came in from VT and it isn't polished and the oil holes aren't chamfered....
It was supposed to be though...ARG...
now I need to get that done... Is getting it Cyro'd worth while...?

Cryo isn't needed, it's a forged crank. But if you wanna go crazy on it, go ahead: I did it. Unless you ordered the rotating assembly from VT already balanced you'll have to have that done though. As for polishing, my builder said he would be having the journals polished to fit the bearings. While they're balancing and polishing they can chamfer the holes.

[Loco1234]

Hmm it is supposed to read to rock...
It is supposed to be Balanced.....but there are no markings on the parts....
not sure whats up....

I have to call VT.... Anyone else have any building tips or ideas to consider while building/assembling a Mod Motor Block...?

[Zack]

Send the parts back to VT, have them assemble it, then ship it back.
If you want little or no headaches, go this route.

[Loco1234]

thanks Zack...
Thats pretty much the conclusion we have come to....

Its just a real pain in the Arse when every step of the way we have a roadblock... can't make any head way.... We were hoping to ahve this in the car before the snow fall. Unfortunately, that doesn't seem like its gonna happen...

Well I guess we'll just move on to modifing for the new battery location etc...

plus we need to work out the new fuel pump(s)/lines...

[Zack]

I told your dad not to move the battery.
Buy a Pre-Filter.
Here is an example:
http://www.xtremediesel.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=760

[juno]

Do you have Sean Hylands mod motor book? It is a good investment for some of the info in there including some builds. It may not be exactly what you want, but there are a few pearls in there well worth the price.

[Loco1234]

Ya, Me and Sr. have been back and forth about the Air Filter Location...
After speaking with Dennis we think we may have a better solution in the works... We hope to relocate the Filter to the original battery location, create a custom (but stock looking air box), then relocate the battery to the trunk along with a billet aluminum battery box between the sub and the spare....
I will certainly keep everyone posted on the progress...
Zack if you want feel free to give Sr. a call....

I did however email the link directly to him... and copied him in on the thread...

I have heard a few things about Sean Hyland that aren't the best... although I will certainly not judge... Im sure the book is at least worth the reading...

[juno]

I have heard a few things about Sean Hyland that aren't the best... although I will certainly not judge... Im sure the book is at least worth the reading...

The book has nothing to do with his service. It is the best book out there for mod motors that I am aware of.

[Loco1234]

nice, thanks alot I will have to get a copy of that book....