New Engine Build Internals List w/ Pix ***DUW*** [Archive]

Loco1234

11-28-2006, 08:44 AM

"DISCLAIMER"
*This thread is in no way inteneded to advertise or sway marauder owners or forum viewing to purchase any preticular parts from any preticular person or place.*

This is simply a list to share with fellow maruader owners etc...
A list which compiles many of the internals that will part of my current engine build.

PART I:
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As stated in another thread Im having a custom oil pan built.
To complement this new oil pan Im adding a Oil Crank Scraper.(Windage Tray)
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o191/Loco4321/PICTURE-002.jpg
Windage Tray Part # information:
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o191/Loco4321/PICTURE-004.jpg

FFRP Oil Pump Part # information:
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o191/Loco4321/PICTURE-006.jpg

Oil Pump Gears:
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o191/Loco4321/PICTURE-009.jpg
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o191/Loco4321/PICTURE-015.jpg
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o191/Loco4321/PICTURE-016.jpg

To keep everything together during a new motor build such as this Im using all new ARP fastsners....
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o191/Loco4321/PICTURE-028.jpg

SpeedPro: Can't go wrong...
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o191/Loco4321/PICTURE-033.jpg

Clevitte 77 Bearings: Great bearings for a great price....
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o191/Loco4321/PICTURE-035.jpg

End Part I
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Loco1234

11-28-2006, 09:18 AM

PART II:
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Next Billet Oliver Rods were chosen...(these have been prestreched and balanced... They look really nice... IMHO
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o191/Loco4321/PICTURE-037.jpg
Photo of me holding rod standing up:
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o191/Loco4321/PICTURE-039.jpg
Rod on its side:
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o191/Loco4321/PICTURE-042.jpg
Rod form Crank side:
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o191/Loco4321/PICTURE-043.jpg
Rod from Piston Side:
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o191/Loco4321/PICTURE-049.jpg
Spec sheet on Rods: (If anyone see's something out of place on this sheet please mention it now before I bolt it into the motor....
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o191/Loco4321/PICTURE-052.jpg

End Part II
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Loco1234

11-28-2006, 09:19 AM

Part III
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12cc CP Pistons:
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o191/Loco4321/PICTURE-053.jpg
Side View:
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o191/Loco4321/PICTURE-055.jpg
Top View:
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o191/Loco4321/PICTURE-057.jpg
UnderSide of Piston:
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o191/Loco4321/PICTURE-061.jpg
Piston Spec Sheet:
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o191/Loco4321/PICTURE-062.jpg

Piston Misc:
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o191/Loco4321/PICTURE-070.jpg
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o191/Loco4321/PICTURE-071.jpg

Rings:
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o191/Loco4321/PICTURE-065.jpg

End Part III
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Loco1234

11-28-2006, 09:24 AM

Part IV
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Billet Stroker Crank: (as delivered)
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o191/Loco4321/PICTURE-100.jpg

Billet Stroker Crank: (when unwrapped)
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o191/Loco4321/PICTURE-074.jpg
Stroker Crank Markings:
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o191/Loco4321/PICTURE-085.jpg
angled view:
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o191/Loco4321/PICTURE-090.jpg
Oil holes: (with slight Chamfer)
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o191/Loco4321/PICTURE-077.jpg
Oil holes: (with no Chamfer) needs to be done...
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o191/Loco4321/PICTURE-099.jpg
Close up of crank:
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o191/Loco4321/PICTURE-094.jpg

End Part IV
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Zack

11-28-2006, 09:24 AM

Ive learned that Pistons on a stroker should be coated on the side due to the extremely long stroke and additional side forces.
Something to consider.

Loco1234

11-28-2006, 09:27 AM

Thanks Zack I will look into getting that done...
Do you know or anyone else Know of any good places that do such a treatment?

FYI:
All thought s and ideas are always appreciated....

Zack

11-28-2006, 09:27 AM

Talk to FordNut

Loco1234

11-28-2006, 09:29 AM

I've been followign his threads closely....
I will have to send him a "PM"

Zack

11-28-2006, 09:30 AM

Heres a pic of his piston:
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/5/1/8/DSC01465.JPG

Zack

11-28-2006, 09:31 AM

Also, when your pan is built, dont forget to take into consideration you will have an extra 1/4" of windage tray.
Crossmember clearance is really tight to begin with.

Loco1234

11-28-2006, 09:36 AM

Ya I remember you mentioning in a thread this was an issuse for you...
I made sure the Oil pan builder is fully aware of the possible clearance issuse and the importance of that angle above the crossmember...

Power Surge

11-28-2006, 09:44 AM

All nice parts.

The only thing I would suggest, is to get a different oil pump. The FMS pump is just a stock 4 valve pump. It's an upgrade for 2 valve motors, and just a stock replacement for 4 valves.

I suggest the MMR oil pump. It has cryo treated gears and they machine in an oring seal to the block. Definitely worth the $210.

Loco1234

11-28-2006, 11:33 AM

I thought about going with an MMR oil pump but... heard mixed thoughts on them....

In another thread...Zack said, "if you are using a MMR pump, it wont build oil pressure until the engine starts. It will be pointless to crank it over to build pressure."

any thoughts on that...?

If you look at the pictures above... I did get the upgraded oil pump gears...

Zack

11-28-2006, 11:36 AM

Get the MMR pump.
Its fine that the oil pump doesnt build pressure until the engine fires cause the assembly lube will keep everything slick.

Loco1234

11-28-2006, 11:59 AM

PART V:
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Oil Pump & Pick-up:
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o191/Loco4321/PICTURE-105.jpg
Oil Pick-up shots:
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o191/Loco4321/PICTURE-110.jpg
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o191/Loco4321/PICTURE-113.jpg
Part #
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o191/Loco4321/PICTURE-107.jpg
Pick-up Screen:
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o191/Loco4321/PICTURE-109.jpg

Oil Pump: (pre-gear upgrade....)
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o191/Loco4321/PICTURE-117.jpg
Side shots:
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o191/Loco4321/PICTURE-122.jpg
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o191/Loco4321/PICTURE-123.jpg
Back side of Oil Pump:
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o191/Loco4321/PICTURE-124.jpg
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o191/Loco4321/PICTURE-126.jpg

End PART V:
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Loco1234

11-28-2006, 12:01 PM

Ok...
this is what I currently was planning on using.....

I will certainly look into the MMR Oil Pump if that seems to be the best way to go... Does anyone else agree with this conclusion...?

Zack

11-28-2006, 12:04 PM

That pickup wont work with a Marauder pan
Do something like this:
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/4/0/4/DSC02074.JPG
With the stock piece.

Loco1234

11-28-2006, 12:18 PM

Part VI
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The current plan is to upgrade the supercharge on the vehicle from a Vortec Supercharger SQ trim to a T trim. Thus an increase from 10# to 14# of boost.

Hence a new intercooler pump was required to increase the flow of the exicting intercooler and maxamize efficiency....

The new Intercooler pump is from a Lightining...
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o191/Loco4321/PICTURE-103.jpg
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o191/Loco4321/PICTURE-102.jpg
I am still gonna use the air-water intercooler provided withthe original supercharger kit....

End Part VI
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Loco1234

11-28-2006, 12:25 PM

I just spoke with Sr.
The pick up shown above came with the oil pump....(We intend to discard)
I was unware of it... but apparantly the oil pan builder is making a Completely new oil pick-up as well. It will match to the new pan...

Pictures of that will be posted once it has been completed...

Zack

11-28-2006, 12:40 PM

You are going to need part # B490 here:
http://www.turbohoses.com/90%20degree.htm

Loco1234

11-28-2006, 12:50 PM

Zack

11-28-2006, 01:31 PM

I purchased my hoses for my 1986 Merkur XR4TI for this company...
They make really nice stuff...

I assume this part would be for the inlet side of the new supercharger...
It would cetainly reduce restrictions in the inlet piping....

Yes it is.
The T-Trim is 3.75" od and the hose is 4" od.
Make sure to request their 'slim' collar to take up the slack.

Loco1234

11-28-2006, 02:03 PM

Thanks alot that will save one headache later....

anyone notice anything else I should be aware of...
Or may wish to consider...?

Zack

11-28-2006, 02:22 PM

Thanks alot that will save one headache later....

anyone notice anything else I should be aware of...
Or may wish to consider...?

98 Cobra Timing cover. (Or Mark 8) Try a 6 rib set up, you will most likely have no belt slip. Get the good tensioner, it is over $120
8 Rib is a pain.
Use titanium valve spring retainers, not steel.

Swap the alternator pulley (One without the one way clutch)

FordNut

11-28-2006, 02:23 PM

I got the MMR pump but replaced the cryo-treated gears with the billet ones. The basic benefit I see from the MMR pump in this case would be the o-ring seals and the re-valved internals (probably just a readjusted bypass spring but they won't tell).

I have a hard time recommending anything from MMR because they screwed me on another deal. Just watch out when you're dealing with them.

FordNut

11-28-2006, 02:26 PM

98 Cobra Timing cover. (Or Mark 8) Try a 6 rib set up, you will most likely have no belt slip. Get the good tensioner, it is over $120
8 Rib is a pain.
Use titanium valve spring retainers, not steel.

Swap the alternator pulley (One without the one way clutch)
The timing cover from any 4V Mark VIII or Cobra up to '98 has the pulley/tensioner arrangement Zack is referring to.

My builder would disagree on the retainer recommendation, at least for my intended use. Steel fro street, titanium for racing.

FordNut

11-28-2006, 02:29 PM

My MMR pump came with the first pictured pickup. Why won't it work?

Loco1234

11-28-2006, 02:58 PM

Ya I currently have the shown ffrp oil pump and the billet gears to pump into it....
Should I just the MMr pump and then put my billet gears into it...

I do not drag race this vehicle... I do however go to the pocono international raceway with it from time to time and run the track...

hence why I went Centrifical...

Im also going with the 98 cobra front cover and all steel tensioner on Zacks recommendations....

Power Surge

11-28-2006, 03:56 PM

Zack

11-28-2006, 09:03 PM

My MMR pump came with the first pictured pickup. Why won't it work?

Cause its for a Mustang!

Dennis Reinhart

11-28-2006, 09:08 PM

I would not run the billet gears. I prefer the cryo treated stockers over the aftermarket billet ones. Just my preferance.

Sal why not billet and where can you send the OEM to be treated and what is the average cost

FordNut

11-28-2006, 09:18 PM

Sal why not billet and where can you send the OEM to be treated and what is the average cost

I've had a lot of cryo treating done at evans performance coatings just outside ATL. I don't know what he would charge for a small job but he's always been reasonable for what I've had him do.

http://www.evansperformance.com/home2.html

I still went with billet gears, then had them cryo treated to boot.

Sal will have to answer the first question

FordNut

11-28-2006, 09:23 PM

Cause its for a Mustang!

I still don't understand. My block is the same as a Mustang, pump is for a Cobra, oil pan is for a Mustang. Why wouldn't it work? Maybe with a stock Marauder pan it won't work but since he's getting a custom made pan there should be no problem making the pan fit the pickup tube.

Zack

11-28-2006, 09:29 PM

I still don't understand. My block is the same as a Mustang, pump is for a Cobra, oil pan is for a Mustang. Why wouldn't it work? Maybe with a stock Marauder pan it won't work but since he's getting a custom made pan there should be no problem making the pan fit the pickup tube.

Didnt know you had an oil pan project in the works Brian, my bad.
Still, be cautious of the fitment, they are close clearanced to begin with.

FordNut

11-28-2006, 09:42 PM

Didnt know you had an oil pan project in the works Brian, my bad.
Still, be cautious of the fitment, they are close clearanced to begin with.

Cool, I was just wondering if there was something else I had overlooked. See my latest updates in this thread http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=30917 and you'll see some pics of the pan.

I laid it out on a flat surface beside the OEM Marauder pan and measured, it should fit. The angled part that leads in to the sump is different on the aluminum pan than on the steel pan. I believe there are actually 4 different pans, the Canton steel, Canton aluminum, Moroso steel, and Moroso aluminum.

Vortech347

11-29-2006, 02:09 AM

I love engine parts porn....

Loco1234

11-29-2006, 06:45 AM

LOL ya kinda is isn't it...
LOL

David Morton

11-30-2006, 10:48 PM

Thanks alot that will save one headache later....

anyone notice anything else I should be aware of...
Or may wish to consider...?

Assuming your crankshaft throws have all the same exact thrust measurements (seems like a fine blueprinting document there) I'd match up rods by twos and make measurements of pairs for the thrust (thickness). Try to get the rods matched up on the throws so that the thrust clearances between the rods after assembly will all be exactly the same. This will ensure equal oil bleed rates through the thrusts on the crank throws. That'll help ensure every rod bearing has the same amount of supporting oil pressure.

Also, put a feeler guage in the thrust gap to take up the clearance and prevent any twisting of the rod as you torque down the rod caps. Even the small twist of 1/2 a thousandths of an inch can cause the bearing insert edges to touch the throw, mash it a little and cause a bleed off of oil pressure there. At 8000 rpm's the slightest of flaws can be catastrophic.

A womans' fingernail polishing board is good to polish up those crank throws. I'd have 'em shining like mirrors if I were you. No reason they shouldn't be as shiney as the rear main oil seal surface.

Drive it like you stole it for 100 miles and drop the oil for a fresh 5qts. WOT up to 75 and let off back down to 40 to suck some oil up on the cylinders and then back to WOT. Do that as much as you can for 100 miles. Use regular oil.

Drop the oil again at 1000 miles, (then you can go racing) again at 2500, then do the filter change at 5000. Then you can go synthetic if you like that sort of thing.

FordNut

12-01-2006, 05:26 AM

Drive it like you stole it for 100 miles and drop the oil for a fresh 5qts. WOT up to 75 and let off back down to 40 to suck some oil up on the cylinders and then back to WOT. Do that as much as you can for 100 miles. Use regular oil.

Drop the oil again at 1000 miles, (then you can go racing) again at 2500, then do the filter change at 5000. Then you can go synthetic if you like that sort of thing.

Funny you mention this. I asked my builder about breakin recommendations. Since he's building it and responsible for any warranty work, I'm gonna break it in the way he says. Some folks say drive it easy for 500 miles then hit the dyno. My builder said "run it hard". When can I pit it on the dyno and run it wide open at high RPM? As soon as it cranks. Just breakin with dino oil.

Zack

12-01-2006, 06:19 AM

Funny you mention this. I asked my builder about breakin recommendations. Since he's building it and responsible for any warranty work, I'm gonna break it in the way he says. Some folks say drive it easy for 500 miles then hit the dyno. My builder said "run it hard". When can I pit it on the dyno and run it wide open at high RPM? As soon as it cranks. Just breakin with dino oil.

a lot of people break their engines in ON the dyno.
Wont hurt anything

Power Surge

12-01-2006, 08:07 AM

Sal why not billet and where can you send the OEM to be treated and what is the average cost

I say that because I've had people break the billet gears just like the stockers. Never heard the cryo treated ones break.

I have not sent any out, I usually buy the MMR pump.

Also, I wouldn't worry about breaking pump gears too much in these cars. It really the stick cars the break them, from the violent rpm changes on shifting, especially downshifting.