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View Full Version : New Fuel Rails are In....(PIX included)



Loco1234
11-30-2006, 11:05 AM
Due to upgrades currently under way...the upgrade of the stock fuel rails was finally warrented...
As you can see I went with Red Rails to match DTR paint scheme....

Shot of all the new parts...
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o191/Loco4321/PICTURE-132.jpg
Close up:
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o191/Loco4321/PICTURE-134.jpg
Fuel Rail Pressure Sender Location:
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o191/Loco4321/PICTURE-135.jpg
Underside of Fuel Rail:
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o191/Loco4321/PICTURE-138.jpg
End of Fuel Rail:
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o191/Loco4321/PICTURE-142.jpg

Hope you guys enjoy these posts and Pix of mods...

I know I can't wait to bolt everything back together and romp on it...

ckadiddle
11-30-2006, 11:31 AM
Those'll look nice!!!

Loco1234
11-30-2006, 11:50 AM
I hope so....
I do alot of my own powder coating.......so i plan to powder coat my vavle covers since they are currently are not...(DTR 04)
I also gonna do my Blower pipes to match....
and a few other misc. items......

Zack
11-30-2006, 12:16 PM
Here i come to the rescue again...
If you plan on running your -8 fuel line to the fron of the passenger side rail, you will need this:
http://www.livermoreperformance.com/images/Products/XRP/Adaptors/989104.jpg
XRP part # 989108

Look here:
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/showcase/files/4/0/4/Marauder006.jpg

The crossover tube you see is a stocker with exactly 1 1/4" removed from the horizontal tubing on both sides. Id give you the one I have, but Im gonna put a Vortech back on sooner or later. Your modded one will work just fine.

Loco1234
11-30-2006, 01:03 PM
Thanks for the info zack; your awesome...

Oh any thoughts on this...?

Ford Nut also told me....
"My CPR fuel rails had to be modified. I believe Steve Schingler's were sent back to CPR for modification. Be sure and test fit them with the engine on a stand, as it's a real pain to work on them in the car. Both mine and Steve's had problems with the tabs on the passenger's side causing the injectors to be tilted and keeping the o-ring from sealing. On mine, I simply had them modified by milling the mounting tabs to half the original thickness. However, this brought the FRPS too close to the intake manifold so I had to modify that also by grinding a notch in the flange.

Just a heads up for ya. Lookin' great!"

Zack
11-30-2006, 01:41 PM
Thanks for the info zack; your awesome...

Oh any thoughts on this...?

Ford Nut also told me....
"My CPR fuel rails had to be modified. I believe Steve Schingler's were sent back to CPR for modification. Be sure and test fit them with the engine on a stand, as it's a real pain to work on them in the car. Both mine and Steve's had problems with the tabs on the passenger's side causing the injectors to be tilted and keeping the o-ring from sealing. On mine, I simply had them modified by milling the mounting tabs to half the original thickness. However, this brought the FRPS too close to the intake manifold so I had to modify that also by grinding a notch in the flange.

Just a heads up for ya. Lookin' great!"

^^^^^^ Had to do the same thing.

Loco1234
11-30-2006, 01:45 PM
Great Im looking forward to that....
LOL

I just got the dual fuel pumps out last night... along with the FPDM or whateva its called...

Now gotta have the mod done to make the dual GT pumps work....
then fuel system is ready for install....

Zack
11-30-2006, 03:45 PM
Put the cobra pumps back in and hook up a BAP.
The GT Pumps are a pain in the azz.
You need twin FPDM's to make them work, along with submersible fuel line in tank. Along with a wiring upgrade. Im sure I forgot something.

thePunisher
11-30-2006, 05:25 PM
ive been running the twin gt's for awhile now with no probs....i upgraded the fpdm...

Loco1234
11-30-2006, 08:07 PM
I was told that it would be plug and play if i do the FPDM mod....

FordNut
11-30-2006, 08:20 PM
I believe Tom (MarauderTJA) has them in his car. I thought Dennis mentioned putting them in his blue car too.

Not exactly plug and play. Different type wiring connectors: contact Dennis to get the part # for the correct ones with the locking tabs instead of using the standard electronic store type. Get the good high pressure hose clamps instead of the standard worm screw type. Re-use the hose that is on the twin Cobra pumps, don't bother taking off the pressure bypass valve. They are a little smaller diameter so you'll have to work out some sort of shim for mounting them. Plus upgrade the FPDM. Not a bad idea to upgrade the wiring too, it's simple to just add another pair of parallel wires from the FPDM to the pump connector. BAP is still usable (wired pre-FPDM) but most tuners say it's not needed with the twin GT pumps. Some have also claimed that you have to use the boost activation switch for the BAP instead of running it full time.

Zack
11-30-2006, 08:23 PM
Read this...
http://www.modularfords.com/forums/2003-2004-mustang-cobra/03-cobra-pumps-vs-ford-gt-pumps-an-electrical-comparison-62971.html?highlight=gt+pumps

Zack
11-30-2006, 08:27 PM
I ran out of fuel in the KB car when it was on the dyno, with and without the BAP.
Thats why I gave up on that car for now.
Im considering taking it to a professional shop to have the fuel system done.
Then again, my pump bracket might be bent and the socks might be pushed against the bottom of the tank.
Twin GT pumps, wiring upgrade and 3/8" submersible fuel line.....
http://www.modularfords.com/forums/2003-2004-mustang-cobra/pics-of-fuel-pump-line-upgrade-and-10awg-wire-upgrade-to-pumps-54652.html?highlight=ford+gt+f uel+pumps
Page 2, post 23

FordNut
11-30-2006, 08:38 PM
Here's a more recent post on the BAP/FPDM/GT Pump subject.
http://www.modularfords.com/forums/2003-2004-mustang-cobra/bap-with-ford-gt-pumps-68163.html

Lotsa people are doing it, so it obviously works.

thePunisher
12-03-2006, 07:15 AM
zack fuel systems are realtively easy! for a good flowing yet inexpensive feed line you can tig weld a stainless -8 fitting to the stock pump outlet line. then use -8 pushlok hose to an aeromotive filter then continue the -8 pushlok to the rails using a russell AN/ford spring lock adapter. or just upgrade to aftermarket rails. this is considerable cheaper than the braided stuff. the pushlok fittings are real easy to assemble, much more so than the pita braided stuff....and they require no clamps. just push the hose onto the fitting...and go.