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MERCMAN
06-09-2003, 08:11 AM
:help:
OK I never owned a black car before, so how about some tips on keeping away the swirls? Also, can anyone reccomend the best way to keep the wheels clean and protected? I know all the info in the owners manual, but I am sure there are better products out there than what FoMoCo suggests. How about Ziebart or other professional paint "protectors"? Does anyone undercoat their cars anymore? I live in Indiana (snow belt), but have NO intention of letting my baby out in the snow(or the rain if I can help it) Any suggestions,,,hints,,tips. ?

Macon Marauder
06-09-2003, 08:31 AM
You could try a search on Zaino - which seems to be a favorite among members. Here's a link to 1 thread - there are many:)

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2068

RF Overlord
06-09-2003, 08:33 AM
Just one word:

Zaino Z-5 (http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=Z-5&Category_Code=Zaino)

Dr Caleb
06-09-2003, 09:03 AM
When anything touches the paint - it leaves a mark. The easiest way to prevent this, is to only use soft materials when touching the paint.

If you use a hand wash, don't use the supplied brush. It might have been used by a 4X4 that just got back from a bog somewhere. Bring your own soft wash mitt. When drying, use a water blade with a terry towel cloth and/or a sheepskin chamois. Not a synthetic chamois - thos can hold and trap particles that will scratch! To remove light dust buildup, use a duster and some detailing fluid.

I've found on my MM, that a polish can remove/hide swirls that you already have. I use Maguires 3 step, it has a cleaner, swirl remover and wax/polish. For the really bad scratches I seem to get out of nowhere at the top of the front quarters and the sides of the trunk, Maguires also makes a deep scratch remover.

Since I live in an area where snow is a concern I bought a Simonize car cover. Never never never brush the snow off this car!!! A snow brush will put fine lines in the surface that show up like a bald guy with a bad comb over. I bought the 17-19' X-Large cover. It's breathable, but waterproof. It's long enough to fit snugly over the nose, long enough to reach the front wheels, and completely cover the chrome tips and tail. It has 4 plastic grommets located just behind the front wheel and ahead of the rear wheel. I bought some tape type nylon and a few of those clickable plastic connectors like you see on backpacks to join the grommets together. If you connect them in an X pattern under the car, there is very little movement of the fabric in heavy wind, and it is almost sealed against dirt that can accumulate under the fabric and scratch the paint. You don't want the cover flapping in the wind - see some other threads here about that...

I also use Turtle Wax bug and tar remover on a teflon safe scouring pad to remove the road tar that seems to build up on my chrome exhaust tips.

Note: I'm not a shill for Maguires, I just like their products.

Black cars are the worst for showing scratches. The best way to paint a car is to put the primer as an opposite colour. So a black car has a white primer. That makes scratches show up like neon. From what I can gather too, Ford paint seems to scratch whenever a bug hits it.

MERCMAN
06-09-2003, 09:34 AM
thanks Cabal, I have had good results with Mcguires in the past, How about undercoating? Is that still a "must do" up in the Great White North?

Dr Caleb
06-09-2003, 10:08 AM
Undercoating is a must. During winter, a mix of sand or fine gravel and 15% sand is used to keep some sort of friction on the roads. I don't plan to use my MM in the winter, but it's nice to have the option. I've got a company truck right now for that, and a Crown Vic to fall back on.

I haven't tried the Zaino Z-5 that Macon and RF seem to like. Have to get some.

When I bought the car, I had the option of doing the undercoating, fabric and paint sealant within 1 year of purchase. With it, they warranty the body and underside to be rust free for 10 years. Plus they give free yearly touchups for the life of the car.

bugsys03
06-09-2003, 04:00 PM
i got the teflon paint sealant treatment and my car still looks like it was just waxed every time i wash it.(100's of times). i have never waxed it and i got mine in jan. it still feels like it was just waxed

WolfeBros
06-09-2003, 05:50 PM
Dr Caleb check out www.zainobros.com
You will get the complete story on their products there.
Well worth the money. Best I have ever used.

jgc61sr2002
06-09-2003, 07:47 PM
As Macon, RF and Wolfe have stated Zaino is the only way to go. I couldn't agree more.

MERCMAN
06-10-2003, 11:07 AM
Is Zaino available in retail stores or just mail order?

RF Overlord
06-10-2003, 11:11 AM
I don't believe there are any distributors outside NJ...but you can order from them on-line now...I just did some re-ordering on Sunday and they confirmed my order went out yesterday.

looking97233
06-12-2003, 12:44 AM
Zaino Bros. does have distributors all over the country. When you go to their web page, send an e-mail asking for a distributor in your area. There's one all the way out here in Portland, Or.

studio460
06-12-2003, 02:27 AM
bugsys03:

Where did you obtain the "Teflon paint sealant treatment?" Was it from your dealership? Do other LM dealerships offer this product/service?

Paul T. Casey
06-12-2003, 04:12 AM
I had great results with the Turtle Wax Color Cure wax. It removed about 90 % of the swirls in one use. Also seemed to deepen the color. Now that I have some free time, I'll probably try the Zaino deal.

MMpridenjoy
06-12-2003, 05:54 AM
I thought I had read somewhere that the factory doe's not recommend doing any undercoating on the MM? Has anyone else heard this?

Reaper948
06-16-2003, 11:02 AM
Can I get the Z-5 at any regular store?

studio460
06-17-2003, 04:09 AM
Okay . . .

I finally attempted to address some of my swirls/buffer burns tonight. Since I'm adding some custom badging to the rear, I thought I'd test it out on that . . .

I know many of you swear by Zaino, and I'm sure it's great stuff, but it just seems I never get around to ordering their products, since they're only available online. So, I just went with store-bought products:

1. 3M Swirl Remover
2. 3M Hand Glaze
3. Formula 2001 urethane (contains no wax)

[will re-edit this post later to include part numbers]

Went with 3M Swirl Remover because, before Zaino had their own, Zaino themselves recommended the 3M product as a first step. I'm going to call 3M, but I believe this has mild abrasives in it--anyone know?

The 3M Glaze is like an oily undercoat that only seems to be sealed by another coat of something else. The something else I used was the Formula 2001 urethane product.

None of the 3M products mentioned contain any silicone or waxes and are both "clearcoat safe" and "paint shop safe." The Formula 2001 product also contains no waxes.

I'm very happy with the results--looks like black glass.

studio460
06-20-2003, 03:57 AM
Okay, regarding my above post:

I haven't been able to contact 3M Automotive via phone--the number on the product gets a phone company recording.

Although both 3M products say "clearcoat safe," I have a feeling that the swirl remover is somewhat abrasive. I would not advise anyone to use the 3M products unless they can confirm the amount of abrasives in their formula. I only used it because I thought Zaino had recommended the product themselves a only few months ago.

TAF
06-20-2003, 04:52 AM
Originally posted by NBC Shooter
I only used it because I thought Zaino had recommended the product themselves a only few months ago.

You are right, Shooter...In fact I was the one that posted it. I had a phone call with Sal Zaino about 5-6 months ago and was concerned about some places that the Z5 just was not getting all the way out. He recommended the 3M swirl remover. Said it had a very fine abrasive but was safe. You went the right way.

studio460
06-20-2003, 08:51 AM
TAF:

Thanks for your post--much appreciated, as always. Anyway, after I applied the 3M swirl remover, the finish did look flat, as if some of the clearcoat was abraded away. I then applied the 3M hand glaze . . . then the finish was, uh . . "oily." I was like, "huh?" So then I applied the Formula 2001 urethane and the surface shined up like black glass.

So . . . I am planning to proceed as follows: Apply the 3M swirl remover only on the areas where I have severe buffer burns. Then eventually order the entire Zaino regimen. Even though the 3M product says "clearcoat safe" I am fairly concerned about its abrasive properites. The Zaino Z5 product claims to "fill" rather than merely abrade to eliminate swirls marks, and I assume the Z5, although less abrasive than the 3M product, does also include very mild abrasives. I mean, how much abrasion, no matter how mild, can a mere 1 mil of factory clearcoat take?

Was the above experience similar to yours, TAF? Where after applying the 3M swirl remover, the surface looked "dull?" Well, at least I only did a small portion of the rear. Although, nearly a week later, that area still looks like black glass.

P.S. Oh, by the way . . . The reason I like the urethane product so much is that I can apply liberally all over without worrying about spillover onto rubber, plastic, etc. trim--it doesn't leave any visible residue on trim. Do the Zaino products behave the same way? Do you have to carefully NOT apply to rubber trim, etc.?

P.S.P.S. Oh, and another thing . . . Can anyone clarify what a "glaze" is? What step in the application process should a glaze be applied? And what products qualify as a "sealer?" A Ford service guy told me (when explaining what to do about the buffer burns) that they probably only needed to apply a "sealer" for the buffer marks to go away. Is this a body shop-only type process? And what about that "Teflon" sealant someone mentioned in this thread? Again, a body shop-only type of service/product? Thanks for all your input.

TAF
06-20-2003, 09:43 AM
Shooter,

I just needed the 3M swirl remover around where I removed my rear badge (with a credit card type hotel key instead of the much preferred plastic putty knife). I called Sal and that was his recommendation. I then covered with a couple coats of Z2 Polish Lock for protection...good (better) than new.

That's my only experience with the 3M for a very small area. As for the Zaino system, I've only done the complete process once (about a year ago). Maintenence is just the Zaino Wash which "re-coats" the finish. I just use the California Water Blade and voila...instant shine. You can ask those that have seen my car, or used the products themselves...even when dirty (like mine is now) it still looks like black, molten glass.

CRUZTAKER
06-20-2003, 09:57 AM
Originally posted by RF Overlord
Just one word:
Zaino Z-5

If they are real bad, you'll need TWO words:

3M Swirl Mark Remover for dark cars. Zaino recommended.

I realize that's more than two words.... :P

RCSignals
06-22-2003, 01:56 AM
NBC Shooter, did it work on your buffer burns?

studio460
06-23-2003, 05:15 PM
RC:

Yes, the 3M Swirl Remover product did eliminate the rear lid buffer burns, but I believe at the cost of abrading the clearcoat (how could it not?). Even though the 3M product says "clearcoat safe" I believe it has the ability to damage an already thin clearcoat since when I finished its application, the finish was very dull. I suspect that I did in fact damage the clearcoat during this test application. I am not planning to use the 3M product on the rest of the car until I test Zaino Z5 first. The Zaino product claims to be the only one that "fills" swirls (but also includes a very mild abrasive) instead of merely polishing them out.

RF Overlord
06-23-2003, 05:24 PM
shooter:

I haven't actually seen your car, but those pix made the buffer burns looks pretty impressive...I don't believe that Z-5 contains ANY abrasives, and it did take 3 applications to get rid of the very fine swirl marks on my hood...I'm a little doubtful it'll be able to fix what I saw in your pictures... :(

From their Application Tips section:

"Make sure you remove any water spots, before you apply my products. Because Zaino has no abrasives or harsh solvents it will not remove water spots or stains."

WolfeBros
06-23-2003, 05:30 PM
I agree with RF. I seriously doubt that the Z5 will touch the swirl marks that I saw in your paint.

MMM2003
06-23-2003, 05:59 PM
NBC- I didn't see your pic's, but I can attest to what others have found, that the Turtle Wax Color cure-Black, does am amazingly good job on covering those swirls.
I tested it today. Had some bird***** (f#^@ing bids) on my car.
Took it to the carwash. (The one where they dry the car with a towel afterwards). Bird***** didn't come off, so before I get there, I see them spray glass cleaner on the spot and wipe it off/all over!!!!!Argh!!!!

I washed the rear quarter panel when I got home. Applied the Turtle Wax (by hand, in a straight back and forth motion).
I could not believe the difference in shine and color depth compared to the untouched trunk ! The swirls were almost completly invisible.

I will defintely do the whole car with that stuff the next time.

I don't know if this is a cure for your situation, but I thought I'll pass it on.

studio460
06-28-2003, 06:46 AM
RF, Wolfe, MMM:

Thanks for your comments. I thought Zaino's website had indicated that the Z5 did in fact have VERY mild abrasives in it--I could be wrong. If I ever get around to finally ordering the Zaino regimen, I'll report on the Z5's effectiveness--I'm still nervous about using the 3M Swirl Remover on any more parts of the car before I try the Z5 first. MMM--yeah, I've been eyeing the Turtle Wax product every time I see it in the store--just looking for a more permanent solution, though. Wonder if the Turtle Wax product could be combined/integrated into a Zaino regimen somehow . . .

By the way, I still really like the Formula 2001 urethane product's performance and application ease. Something just seems right about going with an all "no-wax" product regimen.

Marauder57
06-28-2003, 07:05 AM
SHooter...

Glad you have found something to help clean your paint job up....hopefully you will get it where you want....since you are so good with pictures....I would love to see "Before and After" shots of your Paint job restoration....could be helpful to someone else.... :)

Dr Caleb
06-28-2003, 02:33 PM
Had an affair with my other girlfriend this morning, thought I'd post a link for the group. Get your minds out of the gutter :lol:

http://members.shaw.ca/thedarkknight/Marauder.html

I'm going to use my webspace, rather than use up Logans bandwidth. I washed, and waxed it with Zymol, as Zanio isn't available in my area, and I didn't have time to wait for customs. No Zymol glaze was available, so I used Maguires Glaze.

I should explain the license plate, as someone always asks. We geeks have our own language. (I could lose my geek membership for this). We write poorly, and we spel even worster. As well, looking at nothing but computer code for hours a day, for years on end will distort your perspective on English.

So in this language, we substitute numbers for the letters we so poorly handwrite. E's look more like 3's. A's look like 4's, and so on. the word "ghoti" we pronounce "fish" Huh?
"gh" from touGH.
"o" from 'wOmen'
'ti' from anything ending in '-TIon'
fish. See?

So my plate "PH34RM3" -> "PHEARME" -> "Fear Me", in response to "No Fear"

RF Overlord
06-28-2003, 02:48 PM
Dr. Caleb:

Now that you've explained your license plate, how aboot explaining the phrase under your screen name: Vendi, Vici, Velcro...

I came, I conquered, I stuck around?

:lol:

Dr Caleb
06-28-2003, 03:51 PM
Originally posted by RF Overlord
Dr. Caleb:

I came, I conquered, I stuck around?

:lol:

Whoops, should have been "Vendi Vidi Velcro"...from the latin Vendi Vidi Vici, "I came I saw, I conquered".

The font I have makes "Vici" looks like "Vidi". Thanks, corrected!

Marauder57
06-28-2003, 04:44 PM
Doc I appreciate finally getting the explanation on the plate....I have been trying to figure that out....and finally just quit...and chalked up to you are a mad scientist or something...

Oh and by the way....even with the "information you divulged" with that explanation on the tag....your geek creditionals are solid with me.... :D ;)

studio460
08-17-2003, 05:58 AM
NOTICE: THIS PROCEDURE IS WRONG!!! DON'T DO IT!!!

////////////////THE FOLLOWING PROCESS IS EXPERIMENTAL--USE AT YOUR OWN RISK////////////////

Introduction . . .

Okay, I know you guys all swear by Zaino, but here's what I finally did . . .

As some of you know, I have some fairly obvious buffer burns, swirl marks, and spider webs on my black Marauder. I finally got the Ford rep to inspect the paint defects, so this weekend was my first opportunity since my purchase to apply my first full-car detailing regimen.

Since the buffer burns were fairly deep, I had to use an abrasive polish, and chose 3M Swirl Remover, as many of you had recommended. Also, there were swirl marks and spider webs over most of the rest of the car's surface, so I devised a "filling" strategy using 3M Hand Glaze, followed by a coat of Turtle Wax Color Cure Car Polish, black. To seal these products, I chose a silicone resin-urethane based polish, Turtle Wax's 2001. Here are the steps I used:

Products and application order . . .

A. Cleaning Phase:
1. Dawn hand wash
2. Meguiar's Quik Detailer
3. Clay Magic detailing clay applied w/Clay Lube

B. Abrasive Phase:
1. 3M Perfect-It Swirl Mark Remover for Dark Colored Cars #39009 * (selected areas only)

C. Filling Phase:
1. 3M Imperial Hand Glaze #39007 (non-abrasive) **
2. Turtle Wax Color Cure Car Polish, black
3. Allow to cure for 8 hours.

D. Sealing Phase:
1. Turtle Wax 2001 Car Polish (silicone resin/urethane)

As I was applying each layer, I used a 2-million candle-power marine light to check consistency, and using the light source, I was able to observe that the filling strategy appeared to work succesfully--the 3M Hand Glaze evened out any visible surface irregularities, creating the desired "optically flat" surface (which makes for high reflectance).

Still to be determined . . .

Variables in "curing" or drying time still need to be explored. The 3M Hand Glaze is suspended in a mineral oil base, so it's pretty tricky to get the surface smear-free.

Caveats . . .

I wouldn't necessarily recommend the 3M Hand Glaze. Although I believe it solved my problem, it contains a petroleum-based solvent (although both 3M products are clearly labeled both "clearcoat safe" and "paintshop safe"). Unfortunately, 3M's technical support is basically non-existent for the product, so its appropriate usage and other product information remain unknowns.

Problems . . .

After applying and buffing the Color Cure polish, I couldn't eliminate the oily smears, possibly due to the polish's solvents mixing with the 3M Hand Glaze underlayer.

Unfortunately, the Turtle Wax 2001 Car Polish also contains petroleum solvents and tends to dissolve the black Turtle Wax Color Cure Car Polish underlayer upon application as well (I am still experimenting with Color Cure "curing" times). Apparently, the Color Cure does need some curing time itself (I only waited a few hours, but it may need as many as 6 to 12 hours or more). However, once the 2001 layer is buffed with a soft polishing cloth (after buffing out initial hazy residue with terrycloth), the surface becomes more and more smear-free, and eventually, almost completely smear-free.

Now I could be wrong about all of these methods and conclusions, and the witches' brew of retail car finishing chemicals I've concocted may in fact be the exact wrong thing to do to protect and care for your car's finish--there, you have been warned. But it does look pretty good (I'm still working on it as I'm writing this post) and the most objectional paint defects are virtually gone (many scratches are still easily visible).

Results . . .

Results were excellent--no smearing whatsoever. I had to let the Color Cure dry longer (about 6 hours). Then when the 2001 went on, it wiped right off without any oily residue present. Just looked at it in the morning sun--very mirror-like. Success!

First test . . .

Visited some friends tonight and while parked, a bird decided to relieve himself on my trunk. After I came out, it had already dried. I lightly flicked the droppings, and they just slid of the car!

Wheels . . .

I cleaned the wheels with Meguiar's Quik Detailer then applied a coat of the Turtle Wax 2001 car polish (not 2001 wheel polish). Very, very shiny!

Tips . . .

I cleaned the tips with Weiman Cooktop Cleaner (available at drug stores) then polished with a coat of Turtle Wax 2001 car polish. Very clean and shiny!

3M Application Notes:

* [3M Perfect-It Swirl Mark Remover for Dark Colored Cars #39009: "This professional paint and body shop polish is finding its way into more and more enthusiast’s hands. 3M Perfect-It Swirl Mark Remover for Dark Colored Cars is formulated specifically for black, red, and dark color paints. It works equally well on solid color, metallic and clear coat finishes. Swirl Mark Remover can be applied by hand, orbital buffer or high speed polisher and will remove swirl lines, light oxidation and minor water spots. Polished surfaces emerge with a deep, rich, swirl-free finish ready for your favorite wax. Note to paint & body shops: 3M Perfect-It Swirl Mark Remover contains no wax or silicones. It is paintable and safe for use in a paint shop environment."]

** [3M Imperial Hand Glaze #39007: "3M developed Imperial Hand Glaze specifically for newly painted vehicles or “fresh” paint (less than 30 days old). It should be applied frequently for the first 30 days until the paint is cured and can be waxed. After 30 days, Imperial Hand Glaze should be used prior to waxing to enhance surface gloss and produce a deep, “wet look” finish. Imperial Hand Glaze is nonabrasive, clear coat safe, and contains no wax or silicones. Follow with 3M Perfect-it Show Car Paste Wax to seal the shine under a tough, protective wax shield."]

[EDITED FOR UPDATES]

studio460
08-19-2003, 04:55 AM
NOTICE: THIS PROCEDURE IS WRONG!!! DON'T DO IT!!!

///////////////////////////////////////////////////UPDATE v2.0///////////////////////////////////////////////////

Okay, the previous post was getting ridiculous . . . so here's another ridiculous one.

After doing quite a bit of online research, I found that my original strategy (i.e., "clean, fill, seal") was corroborated by a number of other sources. My only (slight) error in order of application is that a glaze should always ONLY be applied AFTER a cleaner product. Not sure if the clay bar application is enough (instead of a cleaner), but that's all I did to prep the surface before applying the glaze, which is the "filler" step (which aids in enhancing the "wet look" of the finish). Also, a glaze should ALWAYS be followed by a sealer or wax. Here is a revised procedure I will implement on my next mega-step, "full treatment." I know it's ridiculous, but I wanted to devise a regimen which included the Turtle Wax Color Cure product somehow in the process. I also have always preferred the robustness of silicone/urethane products to other waxes (which in this case, I chose "Turtle Wax 2001 Car Polish"). Nice thing about the cured 2001 applications--NO SMEARY RESIDUE WHATSOEVER! Haven't tried the final Carnauba step yet.

Oh, I almost forgot--NONE of the products below (haven't tested the Pinnacle Carnauba product yet) leaves ANY white residue on any of your rubber or plastic trim!

NBC Shooter's Finishing Regimen v2.0:

A. Cleaning Phase:
1. Dawn hand wash.
2. Meguiar's Quik Detailer.
3. Clay Magic 100g detailing clay applied w/included 12 oz. Clay Lube.

B. Abrasive Phase (selected areas only):
1. 3M Perfect-It Swirl Mark Remover for Dark Colored Cars #39009.
2. Additional, light applications of above as needed.

C. Filling Phase:
1. P21S Gloss-Enhancing Paintwork Cleanser (or any other non-abrasive pure cleaner).
2. 3M Imperial Hand Glaze #39007 (non-abrasive).
3. Turtle Wax Color Cure Car Polish, black (applied liberally).
4. Allow to cure for 24 hours.
[Note: Steps 2 and 3 above will leave a visible, greasy residue which smears easily even after repeated buffing (step 2 especially); however, after curing, Phase D completely eliminates the appearance of this residue.]

D. Sealing Phase:
1. Turtle Wax 2001 Car Polish (silicone/urethane), first application.
2. Allow to cure for 6-12 hours.
3. Turtle Wax 2001 Car Polish (silicone/urethane), second application.
4. Allow to cure for 6-12 hours.

E. Wax Phase (optional):
1. Pinnacle Souveran (Carnauba) Car Wax (or any other high-content Carnauba-only wax without cleaners).

One source specifically recommended FOLLOWING the application of silicone/urethane-based products with a high-content Carnauba-based wax without cleaners. The reasoning was that Carnauba is comparatively short-lived, and has a low melting point of 160-degrees F.

Although several sources were highly positive regarding the results and quality of modern silicone/urethane-based sealers, at least one source claimed that Carnauba waxes are superior to silicone/urethane-based sealers at hiding scratches.

[EDITED FOR UPDATES]

MMM2003
08-30-2003, 06:34 PM
Just spent 4 1/2 hours washing, waxing and polishing the MM.
I went to Meguiars.com and had them do a "RX" for my car.

I used there "Gold class car wash shampoo and conditioner" - washed twice.

Dried with the "California water blade" and the "Absorber".

Than "Meguiars Scratch X" non abrasive - one coat.
This stuff really impressed me the most. At first I only did half the trunk and hood and compared the difference in the sunlight. Very impressive. Looked like the "scratches & spiderwebs" disappeared on the Scratch X side.

Last one coat of Meguiars # 7 show car glaze.

I'm very happy with the results. Only hope it will last to late fall.

BTW, make sure you follow directions from the product label. Get over it and read the instructions. :D

I decided against the Color Magic stuff, since I tried it before and didn't last thru a couple of car washes.

I did it all by hand. Now I feel like the Karate Kid. Wax on, wax off. Wax on, wax off...........! You get the point.

Petrograde
08-30-2003, 07:53 PM
WOW
Thanks NBC Shooter and MMM2003! I guess I know what I'm doing tomorrow!

studio460
08-30-2003, 08:14 PM
//////////////////////////////////////////////////WARNING//////////////////////////////////////////////////

I don't necessarily advise the process I described in ridulous detail above. When applying Meguiar's detailing spray to the finished treatment, a greasy residue appears. Not sure what layer is causing this. I used Windex with vinegar (vinegar is already in the product--not added) to get rid of the residue, then applied another coat of Color Cure). Maybe everyone's right and I should just do the Dawn/Zaino treatment. Although I'm now tempted to try MMM2003's procedure.

MMM2003
08-30-2003, 08:33 PM
The only thing I wish I would have had time for, was to add a Clear Coat Wax. Something hard and long lasting over everything. Maybe I'll have time for that tomorrow. Ahh, I forgot, the wife already hinted, that her car sure could use a coat of wax. I showed her the bottle and cloth, but all I got was a "Yeah, right!" Back on subject.

I found that using two cloths and a an applicator worked best. Wax on. Let dry. Than one cloth to take the majority of residue off and than a finishing cloth to give it the final polish. Otherwise you just smear the residue all over.

Good luck and hey, we also have Monday!

studio460
08-31-2003, 04:40 AM
////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////DANGER////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

Okay, just about everything I did was WRONG!!! DON'T DO IT!!!

According to this site (http://www.fordvschevy.com/tech/waxes.php), you can NEVER apply a polymer-type sealant OVER any type of glaze! It just won't stick!

Will post REVISED procedure soon.

studio460
08-31-2003, 04:45 AM
Okay, NOW, after reading this guy's test results here (http://www.deckowski.com/wax%20off/results.htm) using a number of non-retail products, including Zaino, I'm going to try the Klasse products. I highly recommend reading the link above so that you can draw your own conclusions. It was a toss-up between the P21S and Blackfire products--the tests said that the observers thought the Klasse products to be best at hiding swirl marks, which is why I started this whole thing in the first place! They also said that although Zaino was judged to look the best (in "blind" tests), it also attracted dirt much more than Carnauba-based products.

According to Klasse, there are "no silicone, no abrasives, no wax, no polymers, and no Teflons®" used in the Klasse All-in-One Polish and Sealant product.

NBC Shooter's Finishing Regimen v3.4:

A. Washing Phase:
1. Dawn® hand wash.
2. Rinse/wash with diluted Klasse All-in-One Polish and Sealant (as recommended by manufacturer).
3. Clay Magic 100g detailing clay applied w/included 12 oz. Clay Lube.

B. Abrasive Phase (employ ONLY if absolutely necessary):
1. 3M Perfect-It Swirl Mark Remover for Dark Colored Cars #39009 (selected areas only).
2. Repeat application as neccesary.
3. Rinse/wash with diluted Klasse All-in-One Polish and Sealant.

C. Cleaning Phase:
1. Klasse All-in-One Polish and Sealant (non-abrasive true "polish"/cleaner, plus acrylics). Dampen applicator with Eagle One WET Wipe ‘N Shine to ease application.
2. Repeat application as neccesary.

D. Sealing Phase:
1. Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze (acrylic sealer--NOT a glaze as in the conventional detailing definition).
2. Repeat application as desired (product can be layered multiple times).

E. Maintenance:
1. Sonüs High Gloss Acrylic Spritz (detailing spray)

F. Wax Phase (optional):
1. P21S® Concours-look Carnauba Wax.
2. Repeat application as desired.
[note: Sonüs High Gloss Acrylic Spritz cannot be used over Carnauba waxes].

tomd
08-31-2003, 08:49 AM
Originally posted by bugsys03
i got the teflon paint sealant treatment and my car still looks like it was just waxed every time i wash it.(100's of times). i have never waxed it and i got mine in jan. it still feels like it was just waxed

Hey Bugsys,

Can I ask where you had it done, what it cost, how long did they say it will last, and how does it hold up to automatic car washes? Also will it hide swirl marks? I have them from bumper to bumper from the body shop that worked on my car and nothing I put on lasts more then 6 car washes. I’ve used Zaino and Zymol but they don’t last.

bugsys03
08-31-2003, 09:54 AM
Tom- check your pm's. For anyone else interested I had the teflon put on before i took delivery. It is The Protector package sold by the dealer. Everyone says the packages sold by the dealer are a ripoff but i swear by this one. I run this car through the car wash at least once a week and have never waxed it- I dont need to-it still feels and looks like a fresh wax job. No swirls, no car wash scratches. I was at the dyno in chicago and my MM looks as good or better than anyones. I dont think it would take out swirls or scratches, i think it would seal them in forever. It is designed to be put on a new paint job. If you could get your paint looking good and then apply it i think you would be good to go.

studio460
08-31-2003, 03:17 PM
bugsys:

I have the same info request as tomd (cost, etc.), please. Any info on your Teflon® treatment would be appreciated. I actually saw your post months ago, but I have never seen or heard of where to get this protectant treatment done. Thanks!