Rider90
03-02-2007, 07:17 PM
I've been asked about paint chip repair quite a few times so for those that have a chip, listen in.
First, it is time to realize that it is very difficult for the touch-up paint to match your original paint due to UV wear. You have two options in this case:
1) Go to a reputable body shop and have them mix you paint based on your actual vehicle color.
2) Order your paint through PaintScratch.com using the proper color code. For a Black 2004 MM: UA/M6373/M6877. Silver Birch Metallic: JP/M7052. Dark Toredor Red: FL/M6758. If you have a Blue, DX/M7083. If you order a Paint Pen, Paint Scratch will send you a system consisting of a Base Coat & Clear Coat. You can also order a primer if you like. I would get all three.
Ideas that will not work:
1) Stopping by your local auto parts store to get your touch up paint.
--- Why? Touch up paint from these stores is often generic and although it may say your paint color exactly how it should be, "Silver Birch Metallic" it will often not be close enough to qualify as your perticular color because of the way it was made...In the cheapest most generic form possible. And for the same reason listed below (#2).
2) Going to your local Ford/Lincoln/Mercury Dealer for touch up paint.
--- Why? Paint in every way needs to be kept fresh. How long has that paint been sitting on that rack before you came to purchase it? You want nothing to do with it if its been sitting for more than six months. If it is new and you some how knew this, then go ahead and give it a shot. Touch up paints from dealerships can be of good quality since it is their brand of vehicle, but there is no reason to chance it if PaintScratch.com mixes your paint fresh upon ordering.
Depending on the size of the chip, I suggest purchasing a Nick-Sander. It is a small tool, about the size of a pencil, that is used for scuffing up a surface. It is marketed under different names, but they are online for $8.25.
A quick Google search on "ULTRA MICRO FIBERGLASS BRUSH" will yield you the correct page to order from.
-------------------------------------------------------
STEP 1) Tape off your paint chip area. You can get thin 3M tape from your local auto parts store to do this. Tape off, as closely to the chip as you can, and follow with some thicker 3M tape downwards to create distance so the fresh paint does not accidentally get on your current paint. Keep a cotton or microfiber rag near by, that you are willing to sacrifice. If the paint drips, be ready to stop it.
STEP 2) Use your Nick-Sander to scuff up the surface that needs to be repaired. Do not sand the hard edges of the chip and attempt to blend, as that will be your gauge for successful depth. After it is scuffed, clean with a Wax & Grease Remover and preferably a tack rag that is used for prepping paint surfaces. Most FLAPs will have those too.
STEP 3) Apply Primer & allow the primer to dry (Approx 30 mins) You can use more than one layer of primer, but be sure to scuff in between layers with the Nick-Sander. If you do not have that tool, aim to use a 600 Grit Sandpaper (Carefully...)
STEP 4) Once your primer has dried, lightly scuff it with the Nick-Sander. You are now ready for the Base Coat (Color Coat) - Apply the base coat in thin layers allowing up to 30 minutes to dry in between coats. The reason to apply more than one is to fill up the depth of the chip. Depending on the size of the chip, what you use to apply the base coat will vary. I suggest a toothpick or the non-ignitable end of a match stick. Using a brush often results in brush lines that need to be sanded out. If you are using a paint pen then that is your applicator. The plan is to dab the paint on there, and let gravity fill the hole itself - Now you know why I had to tape off the area as close as you can. If the chip is on a completely flat surface, use a small foam applicator that is used for applying stain to wood. You may have to modify the foam applicator depending on the chip size. Once the depth is to your satisfaction, the clear coat is next.
STEP 5) The clear coat applies just like the base coat, in thin layers, allowing up to 30 minutes to dry in between coats. Don't go crazy on the clear coat, but plan to apply atleast 2-3 coats of clear for proper UV protection.
FOUR DAYS LATER...
STEP 6) OPTIONAL: Your newly repaired paint chip may or may not have a great luster like the rest of the vehicle. This is where Rubbing Compound steps in. Rubbing Compound is like a liquid sanding block for your shine, it is abraisive and should be used carefully. Use a 100% cotton pad (ala Zaino) or I suggest using a Foam Pad like those sold by Meguiars. Empty a small dime sized amount onto your applicator and rub in circular motions. By hand, it may take some time and elbow grease. By machine, it will go faster but the risk has increased substantially. I suggest going by hand for this step since you really need to keep an eye on the area for any surface changes or problems that may arise. After this step is completed your paint chip issue should be a thing of the past.
Keep in mind, matching NEW paint with WORN paint can be a challenge. If you are fixing a chip on an eight year old vehicle with 90,000 miles the results may be less impressive than a one year old vehicle with 10,000 miles. This is just how it is. Fixing the paint chip means you do not want to re-paint the panel at a body shop, so this is the next best thing.
Do not apply any wax over the newly repaired area for atleast 30 days. The reason being that your newly applied paint needs to breathe and expell any chemicals/fumes that have been produced as the paint cures and sets in. Waxing before the paint has properly cured can result in oxidation (Hazing).
All of the flash times and dry times listed are assuming 70*F weather. If you are applying this in as low as 55*F weather, the times will double. If the weather is 80*F or above, use the same times as 70*F. If you can, avoid doing this on a humid night. Here in the midwest a humid night can multiply dry times by three. Better safe than sorry...
Thank You, Enjoy, and Keep Em' Clean!
Jason Gauer
Jasons Automotive Detailing Spa
WWW.JASONSAUTOSPA.COM
DISCLAIMER: Use at your own risk. I cannot be held responsible for any damage or undesired results from the instructions above, due to the fact I was not the one fixing your paint chip. If you have any questions, for the sake of your neighbor's children that can hear you swearing in the garage from two houses over, and for the sake of your personal vehicle, please ask me first!
Admistrators & Moderators: I am aware the PaintScratch.com is not a vendor of this website. If you feel it is necessary, you may (of course) remove the link. I think it is a great resource and I am merely letting those who are interested know, that there is finally a source like this. I am not in any way shape or form financially involved for their mention in this.
First, it is time to realize that it is very difficult for the touch-up paint to match your original paint due to UV wear. You have two options in this case:
1) Go to a reputable body shop and have them mix you paint based on your actual vehicle color.
2) Order your paint through PaintScratch.com using the proper color code. For a Black 2004 MM: UA/M6373/M6877. Silver Birch Metallic: JP/M7052. Dark Toredor Red: FL/M6758. If you have a Blue, DX/M7083. If you order a Paint Pen, Paint Scratch will send you a system consisting of a Base Coat & Clear Coat. You can also order a primer if you like. I would get all three.
Ideas that will not work:
1) Stopping by your local auto parts store to get your touch up paint.
--- Why? Touch up paint from these stores is often generic and although it may say your paint color exactly how it should be, "Silver Birch Metallic" it will often not be close enough to qualify as your perticular color because of the way it was made...In the cheapest most generic form possible. And for the same reason listed below (#2).
2) Going to your local Ford/Lincoln/Mercury Dealer for touch up paint.
--- Why? Paint in every way needs to be kept fresh. How long has that paint been sitting on that rack before you came to purchase it? You want nothing to do with it if its been sitting for more than six months. If it is new and you some how knew this, then go ahead and give it a shot. Touch up paints from dealerships can be of good quality since it is their brand of vehicle, but there is no reason to chance it if PaintScratch.com mixes your paint fresh upon ordering.
Depending on the size of the chip, I suggest purchasing a Nick-Sander. It is a small tool, about the size of a pencil, that is used for scuffing up a surface. It is marketed under different names, but they are online for $8.25.
A quick Google search on "ULTRA MICRO FIBERGLASS BRUSH" will yield you the correct page to order from.
-------------------------------------------------------
STEP 1) Tape off your paint chip area. You can get thin 3M tape from your local auto parts store to do this. Tape off, as closely to the chip as you can, and follow with some thicker 3M tape downwards to create distance so the fresh paint does not accidentally get on your current paint. Keep a cotton or microfiber rag near by, that you are willing to sacrifice. If the paint drips, be ready to stop it.
STEP 2) Use your Nick-Sander to scuff up the surface that needs to be repaired. Do not sand the hard edges of the chip and attempt to blend, as that will be your gauge for successful depth. After it is scuffed, clean with a Wax & Grease Remover and preferably a tack rag that is used for prepping paint surfaces. Most FLAPs will have those too.
STEP 3) Apply Primer & allow the primer to dry (Approx 30 mins) You can use more than one layer of primer, but be sure to scuff in between layers with the Nick-Sander. If you do not have that tool, aim to use a 600 Grit Sandpaper (Carefully...)
STEP 4) Once your primer has dried, lightly scuff it with the Nick-Sander. You are now ready for the Base Coat (Color Coat) - Apply the base coat in thin layers allowing up to 30 minutes to dry in between coats. The reason to apply more than one is to fill up the depth of the chip. Depending on the size of the chip, what you use to apply the base coat will vary. I suggest a toothpick or the non-ignitable end of a match stick. Using a brush often results in brush lines that need to be sanded out. If you are using a paint pen then that is your applicator. The plan is to dab the paint on there, and let gravity fill the hole itself - Now you know why I had to tape off the area as close as you can. If the chip is on a completely flat surface, use a small foam applicator that is used for applying stain to wood. You may have to modify the foam applicator depending on the chip size. Once the depth is to your satisfaction, the clear coat is next.
STEP 5) The clear coat applies just like the base coat, in thin layers, allowing up to 30 minutes to dry in between coats. Don't go crazy on the clear coat, but plan to apply atleast 2-3 coats of clear for proper UV protection.
FOUR DAYS LATER...
STEP 6) OPTIONAL: Your newly repaired paint chip may or may not have a great luster like the rest of the vehicle. This is where Rubbing Compound steps in. Rubbing Compound is like a liquid sanding block for your shine, it is abraisive and should be used carefully. Use a 100% cotton pad (ala Zaino) or I suggest using a Foam Pad like those sold by Meguiars. Empty a small dime sized amount onto your applicator and rub in circular motions. By hand, it may take some time and elbow grease. By machine, it will go faster but the risk has increased substantially. I suggest going by hand for this step since you really need to keep an eye on the area for any surface changes or problems that may arise. After this step is completed your paint chip issue should be a thing of the past.
Keep in mind, matching NEW paint with WORN paint can be a challenge. If you are fixing a chip on an eight year old vehicle with 90,000 miles the results may be less impressive than a one year old vehicle with 10,000 miles. This is just how it is. Fixing the paint chip means you do not want to re-paint the panel at a body shop, so this is the next best thing.
Do not apply any wax over the newly repaired area for atleast 30 days. The reason being that your newly applied paint needs to breathe and expell any chemicals/fumes that have been produced as the paint cures and sets in. Waxing before the paint has properly cured can result in oxidation (Hazing).
All of the flash times and dry times listed are assuming 70*F weather. If you are applying this in as low as 55*F weather, the times will double. If the weather is 80*F or above, use the same times as 70*F. If you can, avoid doing this on a humid night. Here in the midwest a humid night can multiply dry times by three. Better safe than sorry...
Thank You, Enjoy, and Keep Em' Clean!
Jason Gauer
Jasons Automotive Detailing Spa
WWW.JASONSAUTOSPA.COM
DISCLAIMER: Use at your own risk. I cannot be held responsible for any damage or undesired results from the instructions above, due to the fact I was not the one fixing your paint chip. If you have any questions, for the sake of your neighbor's children that can hear you swearing in the garage from two houses over, and for the sake of your personal vehicle, please ask me first!
Admistrators & Moderators: I am aware the PaintScratch.com is not a vendor of this website. If you feel it is necessary, you may (of course) remove the link. I think it is a great resource and I am merely letting those who are interested know, that there is finally a source like this. I am not in any way shape or form financially involved for their mention in this.