thermostat/water pump

[dreydin]

ugh...

a month ago i started my car and after i drove a few minutes, i saw my temp gauge rise to High in a matter of seconds. first thing i did was replace the thermostat, no change. so i took it out, ran the car and the temp stayed between the center and Low. so i ran the car without the thermostat for a month because of money problems. a few weeks later, i found the water pump leaking slightly a few times. nothing major but it forced me to fill the reservoir once.

yesterday, i put the thermostat back in to take it to the dealership to have them take a look at the problem. i get a call a few minutes ago and the guy is telling me my thermostat is bad and that they need to replace it for 150 bucks or something crazy. i tell him i already replaced it and that ive seen the water pump leaking a few times already.

he says they found no leaks and the problem is the thermostat, like i had no idea what i was talking about.

i guess when i get it back tommorow ill replace the thermostat AGAIN, but does anyone have any suggestions? could i be installing the part incorrectly? HALP!

im getting pretty peeved :mad2:


ps. i boiled the new thermostat thats currently in my car, in a pan on the burner and it opened up shortly after the water began to boil.

[RF Overlord]

It IS possible to install the thermostat "upside down".

It's hard to describe without a picture, but the thermostat goes into the housing first, with the "guts" facing upward, then the O-ring goes on top of it. Also, the stock thermostat for the MM is 188°. It should have started opening BEFORE the water boiled.

[dreydin]

so the lower hose coming from the bottom of the radiator should have the short end of the thermostat and the "guts" should be pointing upwards towards the engine, right?

ill purchase another thermostat tommorow and do it again since it sounds like the one i have now is opening up too late.

anything else i may need to know? =/

ill post a follow-up here tommorow afterwards.

[RF Overlord]

No, that's pretty much it...The BRM does state not to re-use the factory constant-tension clamps and to replace them with regular worm-drive clamps, but that's about it.

*EDIT* Also do the "burping" procedure when you're done, to be sure there's no air in the system.

[ckadiddle]

I had issues recently with temp shooting up high, then dropping down to normal withing a minute or so before I could get pulled over. Happened a couple of times. I thought it was a sticky thermostat, but it turned out that the radiator cooling fan was malfunctioning. Dealer replaced it under Ford ESP.

[dreydin]

well, im going to let the dealership do it for 130 bucks because they wont replace or fix anything else until "step 1" is fixed... at least thats what the guy told me. i told him i already replaced the damn thermostat and he said, "well its the thermostat." he brushed off the fact that the water pump was leaking prior to it coming in.

blargh :shake:

[Zack]

Make sure they let you keep the 'bad' thermostat and check it yourself at home in a pot of water on the stove.
Then take it back for a refund when it proves good.

[GreekGod]

...I have found, when testing a 'stat, the opening is very small when it first starts to open. I use a very accurate candy thermometer. A good 'stat should have a wide range of a gradual opening "window".

[Krytin]

well, im going to let the dealership do it for 130 bucks because they wont replace or fix anything else until "step 1" is fixed... at least thats what the guy told me. i told him i already replaced the damn thermostat and he said, "well its the thermostat." he brushed off the fact that the water pump was leaking prior to it coming in.

blargh :shake:
Find another dealer!

[rkk]

No, that's pretty much it...The BRM does state not to re-use the factory constant-tension clamps and to replace them with regular worm-drive clamps, but that's about it.

*EDIT* Also do the "burping" procedure when you're done, to be sure there's no air in the system.

I too noticed the blurb about not reusing the factory constant tension clamps and to replace with a worm-style clamp. Is this really necessary? Can someone tell me why?
It's mentioned twice, once for the bleed procedure and again for the thermostat swap. Seemed a little strange.

[Glenn]

Be sure to use a 180 degree thermostat and NOT the stock 188 degree one for an little extra protection.

Glenn :burnout:

[GreekGod]

Be sure to use a 180 degree thermostat and NOT the stock 188 degree one for an little extra protection.

The proper 'stat protects the engine from running too cold or too hot. Running too cold will increase bore & piston ring wear.

Installing a cooler 'stat might slightly increase horsepower, at the expense of increased engine wear, and offers no "extra protection".

[Glenn]

I assure you a 180 degree thermostat versus a 188 one has absolutely no impact on engine wear. It just provides a little more protection against running too hot and is a requirement for all SC engines to help prevent detonation.

Glenn :burnout: