bleeding brakes & fliud type

[burt ragio]

I would like to install my ss brake lines this weekend. What is the prefered fluid type? I'am a one man show in bleeding the lines what is the proper proceedure for this task ?

[O's Fan Rich]

Todd at TCE sent us 2 pints of Wilwood Hi-temp 570 Brake fluid with our group buy of his stainless lines. So That's what I'll be using.

[GreekGod]

...gravity bleed is the easiest.

[burt ragio]

When you say gravity bleed how is that process done ?

[Blackmobile]

I would like to install my ss brake lines this weekend. What is the prefered fluid type? I'am a one man show in bleeding the lines what is the proper proceedure for this task ?

1 man brake bleeding process:

Start with the master cylinder and empty out all the old fluid, and refill with new fluid. then jack up the right rear wheel and open the bleeder valve. attach a tube so to drain the old fluid into a container until you see clear fluid. This is done by pumping the brake pedal.Once you see clear fluid hold the brake pedal down,( I used the hydraulic jack handle, but all is needed is something to go between the brake pedal and the power seat). Then tighten the bleeder valve and pump up the brakes. When the pedal starts to get hard, hold it down again with previously stated procedure and then go back and open the bleeder valve to relieve the pressure and then close valve again. Go back and pump up the brake peddle. RR wheel is now done.
Now do the other rear wheel, and then the front passenger wheel, and last the left front wheel. That should do it.

[fastblackmerc]

1 man brake bleeding process:

Start with the master cylinder and empty out all the old fluid, and refill with new fluid. then jack up the right rear wheel and open the bleeder valve. attach a tube so to drain the old fluid into a container until you see clear fluid. This is done by pumping the brake pedal.Once you see clear fluid hold the brake pedal down,( I used the hydraulic jack handle, but all is needed is something to go between the brake pedal and the power seat). Then tighten the bleeder valve and pump up the brakes. When the pedal starts to get hard, hold it down again with previously stated procedure and then go back and open the bleeder valve to relieve the pressure and then close valve again. Go back and pump up the brake peddle. RR wheel is now done.
Now do the other rear wheel, and then the front passenger wheel, and last the left front wheel. That should do it.

It's much easier if you have a son, daughter, spouse, friend, significant other, etc. participate

[Blackmobile]

It's much easier if you have a son, daughter, spouse, friend, significant other, etc. participate

All that does is replace the bar from the peddle to the seat.

[Leadfoot281]

Could you keep us posted on the stainless steel brake line upgrade?

This is one mod I'm considering. The Kentucky trip made me notice that the brakes in '89 CV feel better than the ones in my Marauder.

[Blackmobile]

Could you keep us posted on the stainless steel brake line upgrade?

This is one mod I'm considering. The Kentucky trip made me notice that the brakes in '89 CV feel better than the ones in my Marauder.

What do you want to know? If you install them you'll love your braking experience. You will be looking for dimes to stop on. SS brake lines give you more brake for your buck.

[Leadfoot281]

That's the info I was looking for. My brakes have always felt a little soft since new. There is nothing actually wrong with them, they just seem to take a little more travel, and are a little softer than what I got used to over the winter in my CV.

The brakes in my friends '04 Chevy truck seem more like an on/off switch. I'd like to avoid that.

[GreekGod]

...a gravity bleed is easiest because it is not necessary to pump the brakes. You simply start by opening the right rear bleeder, while keeping the master cylinder reservoir from going "dry". It is a good idea to remove the old fluid from the reservoir before starting, and putting fresh fluid in.

When the fresh fluid gets to the right rear bleeder, close the nipple and go to the left rear bleeder, and repeat. Then do the same at the right front, then the left front.

I asked the service adviser at a large Ford dealer if they power bleed brake systems. He said they do not, and he recommended the gravity bleed for home repairs. My neighbor said that is how NASCAR mechanics do it, when they are not in a hurry.

[O's Fan Rich]

getting the old fluid out is the fun part. Any tips on that? I always managed to make a mess.

[GreekGod]

getting the old fluid out is the fun part. Any tips on that? I always managed to make a mess.

If you don't have a vacuum pump, just use a paper towel. You can squeeze it out, and it will stiil soak it up like a sponge. If the filler hole is a round, screw on cap style, roll the paper towel into a tube.

[Blackmobile]

getting the old fluid out is the fun part. Any tips on that? I always managed to make a mess.

Yes I have a fix for that too.

To get the majority of the fluid out of the reservoir I used a turkey baster, and to get the rest of the fluid out I used a empty bottle of Windex. Unscrew the pump mechanism for the top of the Windex and insert the tube into the reservoir (the small tube of the Windex should allow you to get to the bottom of the reservoir)and pump the fluid out into the bottle part of the Windex. Nice and neat.

[burt ragio]

Thanks for the info on gravity bleeding of brake lines. Tomorrow I will install the ss brake lines replace old brake fluid with valvoline synthetic. The winter wheels & snows go to storage & oem wheels & tires go back on. The ski box comes off mid May.

[Todd TCE]

I'd like to expand a bit on the gravity plan as there may be some problems with some of what's been discussed.

Gravity bleed works very well. It simply relies upon the weight of the fluid higher in the reservoir to displace the fluid in the lines and caliper via the bleeder nipple and a nice bleeder bottle.

Two things however-

1. The bleeder bottle should have a hose higher than the nipple to trap air in the top of it (if there is any, not always the case). A good bottle is this one:
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/bigpicture.asp?RecId=2926
The only bottle I sell and use personally.

2. Pumping the pedal when doing this type of bleed can be a real problem. While you can verrrry slowly do this doooowwwwwn and uuuppppp if you do it very quickly you'll be reverse pumping both the old fluid and air back INTO the caliper. Proceed with caution.

Personally just let it run out the nipple up the hose, into the bottle. Color change, close it.

[RF Overlord]

Question for Todd (et al):

My '94 T-bird required use of a special electronic box to cycle the ABS solenoids when bleeding the rear brakes. My (limited) understanding was that this was only necessary if the master cylinder was allowed to go dry.

Are there any similar issues with the MM?

[Todd TCE]

Question for Todd (et al):

My '94 T-bird required use of a special electronic box to cycle the ABS solenoids when bleeding the rear brakes. My (limited) understanding was that this was only necessary if the master cylinder was allowed to go dry.

Are there any similar issues with the MM?

Correct. In so long as you don't allow air to get into the reservoir (pretty hard to do with some common sense) there's no need to cycle the pump, you'll just be displacing fluid through it.

[RF Overlord]

Thanks for the quick reply, Todd.

The T-bird ran out of fluid because one of the rear lines rusted out and I had to step on the brakes a few times to get the car back into its parking space, which emptied the master cylinder. Fortunately, the "little black box" for that car was being discontinued by the mfr and they sold it to me for half price. :)

[GreekGod]

I'd like to expand a bit on the gravity plan as there may be some problems with some of what's been discussed.

Gravity bleed works very well. It simply relies upon the weight of the fluid higher in the reservoir to displace the fluid in the lines and caliper via the bleeder nipple and a nice bleeder bottle.

Two things however-

1. The bleeder bottle should have a hose higher than the nipple to trap air in the top of it (if there is any, not always the case). A good bottle is this one:
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/bigpicture.asp?RecId=2926
The only bottle I sell and use personally.

2. Pumping the pedal when doing this type of bleed can be a real problem. While you can verrrry slowly do this doooowwwwwn and uuuppppp if you do it very quickly you'll be reverse pumping both the old fluid and air back INTO the caliper. Proceed with caution.

Personally just let it run out the nipple up the hose, into the bottle. Color change, close it.

Thanks for the tips, Todd. I must obtain one of those bottles.

[MENINBLK]

Does our ABS system use a pressure reservoir ?
Some of the older ABS systems had these.

If so, will pumping the pressure out of the system
empty the reservoir ?

[Canadasvt]

Tomorrow I will install the ss brake lines replace old brake fluid with valvoline synthetic. The winter wheels & snows go to storage & oem wheels & tires go back on. The ski box comes off mid May.
I just received my KVR lines today. How did your install go?